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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

Just completed my auxiliary lights project. I added 2 front lights mounted on magnets underneath the rops and 2 rear lights mounted on JD brush guard brackets.

Lights are wired to the spare bullet connectors. Left connectors for both front lights and right connectors for rear lights.

The auxiliary front lights are turned on by the left push power button mounted inside 1" hole that was pre existing in the rops. Rear lights are turned on by push button on the right.
As soon as I toggle the original main light switch to the last position, both auxiliary buttons are energized and glow in JD green. When I press it, auxiliary lights turn on.

Fun and rewarding little project :-D


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Nice Job ! I wish I had that skill set. I know nothing about wiring stuff like that.

Nice job jakubx80,
I really like the push button switch. Looks great.:good2::bigthumb:


shanksranch5361, we can help walk you through such a project if you ever want to try. Its really just something that requires some patience, time and following the directions, which many of us on here would be glad to provide to you.

When doing wiring projects, its so much easier if you work with good quality components and use good electrical connectors. Heat shrink connectors are my favorite and are all I use. Plus, there are many good YouTube videos which show you how to perform different tasks.

Many of the new lights, etc either come with a pre made electrical harness, you can purchase a pre built light harness or you can make your own. I often purchase a pre-made harness and then shorten it down to the size I need by fitting it to the tractor. This eliminates all the excess wire and just makes the installation looks much more professional.

The electrical wiring harness I linked to the highlighted words above is a harness I have used before and it even has a wireless remote wired in to turn the lights on and off. This is actually very simple to use if you follow the step by step directions with the harness. Any other questions orf concerns could be addressed by GTT members, for sure. We even have some Electricians on here, such as KyleW who I noticed has read this thread and he is a great guy and full of helpful information and willing to share it. He's also a great guy.:good2:

If you decide you want to try a basic electrical wiring project, start a thread and ask for help and I am sure you would get the detailed and step by step instructions to help you complete a successful project......Just ask us and many will be glad to help.

:bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Where did you get the push button switch?
SMAKN DC 24V 25mm Stainless ON OFF Power LED Car Push Button Switch Latching Waterproof. (Green LED) Amazon.com: SMAKN DC 24V 25mm Stainless ON OFF Power LED Car Push Button Switch Latching Waterproof. (Green LED): Automotive

There're a few that match the pre existing hole size exactly (25mm), but I liked the power symbol on this particular one and the color.
The fit is perfect with the button collar sitting against ROPS surface. Have fun fishing the locking nut through inside of ROPS though :)
If you attempt, my technique was to tape the collar to the wire fish, drop it down inside ROPS and I fed a screwdriver through the collar when I saw it through ROPS hole. Then pull on wire fish to break the tape. Last step was to push button into the hole and try to catch a thread by pushing the collar onto threads from the back end. I tightened it by rotating the button around.

The switches come with absolutely no wiring instruction. But if you follow my pictures, you should be OK. I wired in to have green light always on when switch is energized (main lights knob on last position) , even if auxiliary lights are off (button not pressed in).

Otherwise use this as a guide:

There are 6 pins.
If you look at the orientation where you place the 4 pins as upper row with 1 pin right above and 1 pin two "rows" below, then you have the following.
Top pin: power LED (+)
4 pins in a row counting from left to right:
1 pin: power in (+) , from bullet connector down at ROPS for normally open configuration
2 pin: power in (+) for normally closed from bullet
3 pin: power out (+) to light for normally closed
4 pin: power out (+) to light for normally open
Bottom pin: power LED (-)

Normally open (NO) means lights off when switch is not pressed in, and will turn lights on when pressed in.

Normally closed (NC) means lights on when switch is not pressed in, and will turn lights off when pressed in.

Make sure you wire power (+) to either 1st and 4th pin OR 2nd and 3rd.

Finally if you want green light to turn on always when switch is energized jump top pin to either 1st pin for NO configuration or 2nd pin for NC configuration.
If you want green light to come on only when Aux lights are on, jump top pin to either 4th pin for NO configuration or 3rd for NC.

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Discussion Starter #7

Nice job jakubx80,
I really like the push button switch. Looks great.:good2::bigthumb:


shanksranch5361, we can help walk you through such a project if you ever want to try. Its really just something that requires some patience, time and following the directions, which many of us on here would be glad to provide to you.

When doing wiring projects, its so much easier if you work with good quality components and use good electrical connectors. Heat shrink connectors are my favorite and are all I use. Plus, there are many good YouTube videos which show you how to perform different tasks.

Many of the new lights, etc either come with a pre made electrical harness, you can purchase a pre built light harness or you can make your own. I often purchase a pre-made harness and then shorten it down to the size I need by fitting it to the tractor. This eliminates all the excess wire and just makes the installation looks much more professional.

The electrical wiring harness I linked to the highlighted words above is a harness I have used before and it even has a wireless remote wired in to turn the lights on and off. This is actually very simple to use if you follow the step by step directions with the harness. Any other questions orf concerns could be addressed by GTT members, for sure. We even have some Electricians on here, such as KyleW who I noticed has read this thread and he is a great guy and full of helpful information and willing to share it. He's also a great guy.:good2:

If you decide you want to try a basic electrical wiring project, start a thread and ask for help and I am sure you would get the detailed and step by step instructions to help you complete a successful project......Just ask us and many will be glad to help.

:bigthumb:
Thank you!

The push button was definitely the highlight and the feature I liked the most.
First I wanted to put something inside the blank below dashboard for the independent MMM height controller. However, I wanted the ability to independently control front and rear lights. This solution seemed to do the job, look really clean and provide bells and whistles :)



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Nice Job ! I wish I had that skill set. I know nothing about wiring stuff like that.
Thank you!

As SulleyBear has said. It's mostly patience (and lots of it to thread the push button inside of ROPS so it's tight and facing the right orientation).
I could sketch some simple diagram on how I wired it. Where I pulled the wire and where I connected and with what type of connection (a splice mostly).

The trick I use is always follow the color code. Black wire, black shrink wrap, is always minus, other color is never minus.

The great thing about this type of project is that voltages and currents are harmless (of course there are some that would prove this statement wrong ;-)) .
The worst case you'd blow a fuse if you shorted something.


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I just realized where you put that switch. Very convenient location! Great thinking! I wired mine to the factory headlight switch using the factory pigtails at the bottom of the ROPS. Just without the switches. I think it may be time to mod my mod.
Tightening the nut on the switch inside the ROPS doesn’t sound like fun though.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I just realized where you put that switch. Very convenient location! Great thinking! I wired mine to the factory headlight switch using the factory pigtails at the bottom of the ROPS. Just without the switches. I think it may be time to mod my mod.
Tightening the nut on the switch inside the ROPS doesn’t sound like fun though.
I first wanted to just hardwire it without any switch, but then I asked myself a dumb question whether they make a switch that would fit into that hole.
The 25mm threaded switch is truly a perfect fit and there's quite a few to choose from.

Threading the nut took mostly steady hand and patience. About 20 mins first and 40 min second.
The issue I had with the second was that when the switch was tight, the power symbol was positioned off angle. So I nedded to loosen it, try to rotate the button a bit and then tighten again. Trial and error.

This switch would be much easier but where is fun in that? ;-)
uxcell 12V 20mm Green Light 25mm Mounted Thread Momentary Push Button Switch uxcell 12V 20mm Green Light 25mm Mounted Thread Momentary Push Button Switch: Amazon.com: Industrial Scientific

It helps to have the button wires stick through the other end of the rops. That way the nut will not fall down the ROPS, which is probably non recoverable, and you can help rotate the switch by twisting wires.


BTW, just moved from Rhode Island. What a beautiful state!
 

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Thanks for the information. I will let you know if I decide to tackle the mod!
RI is a nice state. I grew up in central CT and moved to NE CT before moving to RI. I just happened to move to the part of RI that seems to always get the most snow! More west time for me!
 
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