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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone by chance removed the fuel tank from a 1025r? While filling the tank one day, the stupid fill nozzle on the new fuel cans slipped off of the filler neck and the upper part of the nozzle popped off and the green lock part, spring and upper nozzle all fell into the tank. I would like to remove them because I don't like foreign objects in fuel tanks, all though i don't for see a problem unless I get water in the tank and the spring starts to rust. I tried using a different style of flex nozzle, but all that did was spill fuel all over me and the driveway Thanks for the help.
 

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Parallel Slope Pole Cylinder Balance
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I tried looking into the tank and even tried using on he those but no luck. Because of the tank curvature I could not see or reach the parts. i would need quite a long "grabber"
 

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Pull the fuel Gauge out and you should be able to see to the bottom of the tank.
 

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The fuel gauge should pull right out of the tank as I believe its just pressed in. The tank is odd shaped and has a small, lower area, which is one of the reasons why the fuel gauge is so inaccurate, due to the tank shape.

Personally, I would use the gauge opening which should give you a straight shot down to the bottom of the tank sump area. If you can't get the stuff out that way, I would be inclined to leave the items in the bottom of the tank.....before I would remove the tank simply to get those items out.

You can see in this image how the gauge aligns with the tanks lower sump area for easier access. Should you end up needing parts related to the fuel lines or tanks, the machine's VIN number is needed as there are variations based upon the machine's build number. You should be treating the diesel fuel to minimize any moisture issues anyway, so I
wouldn't worry about rust, etc. on the parts if all of the fuel is being treated year around.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you sundancer268 and sullybear. Pulling the fuel gauge never occurred to me. I will try that. As far as leaving the parts in the tank, I need the parts to put back on the can. I tried installing one of the kits to illuminate the EPA nozzle and all I got was a diesel soaked knee and a fuel soaked area on my newly paved driveway. Not good for the fresh asphalt.
Thanks to all that have responded. It helps.
 

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Thank you sundancer268 and sullybear. Pulling the fuel gauge never occurred to me. I will try that. As far as leaving the parts in the tank, I need the parts to put back on the can. I tried installing one of the kits to illuminate the EPA nozzle and all I got was a diesel soaked knee and a fuel soaked area on my newly paved driveway. Not good for the fresh asphalt.
Thanks to all that have responded. It helps.
I use the EZ-Pour noozles on my jugs getting rid of that EPA crap... never had a problem. Some will use the VP racing jugs from amazon even though they are not "approved". The govenrment ruined the fuel spout and I'm supposed to trust them with my life.. :rolleyes:
 

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I use the EZ-Pour noozles on my jugs getting rid of that EPA crap... never had a problem. Some will use the VP racing jugs from amazon even though they are not "approved". The govenrment ruined the fuel spout and I'm supposed to trust them with my life.. :rolleyes:
Big second on the EZ-Pour. My TSC carries them, and I have bought them from both Amazon and ebay as well. Smaller size fits cars. The larger diameter spout is great for tractors. Between the addition of a vent (included) and the large spout, I can empty a 5 gallon container of fuel into the tractor in well under a minute.

 

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x2 on the ez pour....probably have half a dozen of that type conversion to existing plastic jugs and newer jugs I had whose spouts were way past their prime or unworkable upon purchase....
I bought some kits for the new jugs that you can buy with the JUNK filling spouts that included new spouts & their locknuts (caution: YMMV on the thread!) and a push-in (after you make a tight fitting hole) vent plug for the rear of the jug....problem solved.....I did make a couple of aluminum nuts to hold the new spouts tight to the jug threaded neck.......THANK YOU CARB & our governments in general for being so mindful of our safety.........& an especial thank you for the ethanol'd fuel.......
 

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X3 on the ez pour.
 
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You could also wait until the tank is run dry and stick a shop vac hose down in there to suck the parts out.

Someone feel free to jump on about the risk of igniting diesel fuel vapor with the shop vac motor.
I did that……. Duct taped a smaller diameter clear hose to the vac hose. It was amazing on how much crud settles in the lower lobes of the tank below the fuel line. When I was done had to clean the shop vac but it worked great!
 

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This VP fuel jug and the battery operated pump is a great combination. It shuts off automatically and you don't need to lift or support the fuel jug when filling the tractor. I like this system so well, i have Yellow Diesel Jugs with the pump on those and the Red for Gas, with it's own battery power pump on those. Since I buy so much fuel, I have 16 to 20 of each color and a storage system for them in my storage building.

I keep all of the jugs that are full with the handles on the jugs facing the same direction. As they are emptied, I turn the jugs 90 degrees so its easy to see how many jugs are full and how many are empty at a glance. Another very helpful feature is you can fill these fuel jugs without having to stoop over at the gas station because the jugs are taller than other fuel containers.

By the way, with these VP jugs,

  • You can get 6 gallon of fuel into the jug as long as you make sure the vent is closed tight.
  • Since the pump empties the jugs, the extra weight isn't a concern.
  • You don't need to have a vent to use the battery pump or even to pour these jugs
  • Since I am using the battery pump and not tipping the jugs to empty them, I fill each of them to 6 gallons as it provides another 16 to 20 gallons of each fuel when I fill the gas or diesel jugs.



With the ethanol fuel, its important to keep the gasoline fresh or the fuel crystalizes in the fuel system. This product, added to each fuel jug helps prevent any ethanol fuel issues. Its much better than using a fuel stabilizer in the months the equipment is rarely used. I use this Starbrite in every gas jug, every time I add fuel so the gasoline is always treated. A 16 ounce bottle treats 256 gallons of gasoline, so it adds about a penny per gallon to the fuel costs.


All diesel fuel is treated, year around. I treat the fuel with Howe's Diesel fuel treatment.


Every 3rd Diesel fuel jug is treated with Hot Shot Diesel Fuel cleaner. It's not necessary nor recommended to run the Hot Shot Diesel extreme in all of the diesel fuel, which is why the every 3rd fuel jug. Here is the Hot Shot Product I add to every 3rd diesel fuel jug in my fuel jug storage system.


Order the Hot Shot product directly from Hot Shot and they have a discount program for as much as 15% to 20% off for signing up for their emails. They have promotions and sales constantly. The Hot Shot Extreme reduces the smoke soot significantly. If you use a front snow blower, front blade for snow removal, if you run the Hot Shot Extreme, the amount of soot on the implement is a fraction of what it will be if you don't run the Hot Shot.

The Howe's does a great job with filter flow and cold weather issues, as well as year around moisture concerns. The Hot Shot increases the Lubricity and also cleans the fuel system. You could run the Howe's diesel fuel treatment exclusively or the Hot Shot exclusively, I use both only because I have had great results with both fuel system products. My tractors fuel efficiency improved and I never have filter issues, cold flow issues or any other diesel fuel concerns.
 

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Since we are now talking about fuel storage, does anyone else have a homeowner's policy that limits the amount? I just reviewed mine and I am surprised to learn that I am limited to 15 gallons in "approved" maximum containers of maximum size 5 gallons each. Anything over 15 gallons requires a flammable liquid storage locker, which would cost over $1,000 for the number of gasoline, diesel, and kerosene 5 gallon storage cans I own.

I don't know whether that limit is per structure so I could keep some in my attached garage, some in my barn, and more in my shed without going over the mandated limit. And I don't want to ask the company. Advice from anyone with an insurance company background, or a fire department background would be appreciated. Interesting that my policy doesn't mention ammunition storage but they do specify flammable liquids.
 

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i keep all of my fuel only in the detached building, which is over 100' from the house. I don't keep any fuel, not even a 1 gallon can of Tru Fuel in my attached garage.

The fuel issue can also involve township or city ordinances as some have limitations or require the retention basins, etc. based upon the size of the fuel containers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well I finally got around to trying to retrieve the fuel can nozzle. GOT IT!!!. The fuel gauge does come off , But there is a metal ring like a snap ring, just under the dial between the dial and rubber seal. Attached to this ring is a grounding wire that is connected with a spade connector. That was the only hang up. The connector tab is long enough to make it hard to remove the unit and the wire is short enough that one cannot easily get at it to remove. I had to try and attach the spade connector to the ring before sliding it up to the dial to install. The use of WD40 to remove and install the rubber seal helped tremendously. I took a metal coat hanger, straightened it out and put a small hook on the end and went fishing. The nozzle fortunately was all in one piece and was able to hook it on the spring.
 
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