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I am looking at wiring in dedicated power for implements. I am very well versed in electronics and electrical so I am not afraid to do the work. However, I would love to use a spare empty point in the OEM fuse panel to do this for a nice relatively clean installation (relative only because of how dirty it is inside this area).

Is there a way to add circuits in other words add in the necessary tie in points for a fuse in the existing block? What part numbers would I need to order and is there a master bus in there that you tie onto or do I have to run wires back to some master lug? I plan to run through a relay as well as I want my circuit to be on with ignition only as I want to make sure that the voltage doesn't drop too low to restart tractor.

Also, is there a way to easily add another run of wire to the rear or am I gonna have to take the floor off again?

Thanks all wise and knowledgeable green masters.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Check out this thread....

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/2795-1026r-where-get-electrical-power-2.html

Talks about some spare locations in the fuse block and the connectors that you can get from NAPA to fit in there.


Also some good info here.....

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/45897-connecting-juice-1025r.html
Thanks I am aware of those threads. The add a circuit is not something I like to use for high current devices. Too much tax on an OEM wire size.

The 1026r may have spare positions but my 1025r does not. I have completely empty fuse holders with no internal terminals. That is why I was wondering if there are replacement terminals available so one could add a cicuit using the OEM fuse block. It looks easy to take apart compared to a Ford load center.

If those parts are not available, then I will just run my own dedicated circuit to battery and mount my own load terminal as well. Give me even more expansion for the future.

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I spent some time trying to get the parts you want. I hit dead ends at every turn. If you come up with something, there's a lot of us that would like to know.
 

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Go check out repairconnector.co alot of stuff there. Look under fuse box and I think you will find what you need. Also, your dealer should have those terminals in stock.

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Thanks I am aware of those threads. The add a circuit is not something I like to use for high current devices. Too much tax on an OEM wire size.

The 1026r may have spare positions but my 1025r does not. I have completely empty fuse holders with no internal terminals. That is why I was wondering if there are replacement terminals available so one could add a cicuit using the OEM fuse block. It looks easy to take apart compared to a Ford load center.

If those parts are not available, then I will just run my own dedicated circuit to battery and mount my own load terminal as well. Give me even more expansion for the future.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
If you are aware of those threads then you did not read them. The 1026 is the same as your 1025.....empty positions with no internal terminals. The NAPA part number that is referenced in the thread linked is the terminal that goes in the fuse block so that you can add a fuse in the empty slots.

This is the NAPA terminal...

NWMDC.jpg

If you pull a connector from the back of your fuse block it should look very similar.

Here is one that I pulled from an existing circuit (there are none on the empty slots) on my fuse block......

IMAG0321.jpg
 

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I used these when I wired up the race car electronics. It wasn't this exact model but it is very close. I actually used two of these style boxes. One is on a large direct feed to the battery and one is on a relay that activates it when the switch is turned on. They make these is smaller sizes as well.

When I installed my light bar on my tractor I made a single feed direct from the battery. If I do a second light bar or add any other electrical to my tractor I will install one of these into the left side pedestal (opposite of the factory) on a relay directly to the starter lead from the battery. I will also add a new runner outside of the factory harness to run leads as the factory harness is fairly full and difficult to get into without cutting tape and zip ties.


https://www.popscreen.com/prod/MTU1ODY1NjI3/12-Way-Blade-Fuse-Box-BUS-BAR-Kit-Car-Boat-Marine-FuseBox-Holder-12v-
 

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Here is a pic of the ones I installed in the car...
IMAG0532_zps2031cb86.jpg
 

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If you are aware of those threads then you did not read them. The 1026 is the same as your 1025.....empty positions with no internal terminals. The NAPA part number that is referenced in the thread linked is the terminal that goes in the fuse block so that you can add a fuse in the empty slots.

This is the NAPA terminal...

View attachment 237873

If you pull a connector from the back of your fuse block it should look very similar.

Here is one that I pulled from an existing circuit (there are none on the empty slots) on my fuse block......

View attachment 237881
Working in a GM dealership I have access to many types of electrical terminals and have never seen anything exactly like the one in the 1026R fuse block, I also went to the JD dealer and they could not duplicate the exact terminal either the closet they had was similar to the NAPA one shown in another post which I believe is a Delphi style terminal.
 

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Napa #

Working in a GM dealership I have access to many types of electrical terminals and have never seen anything exactly like the one in the 1026R fuse block, I also went to the JD dealer and they could not duplicate the exact terminal either the closet they had was similar to the NAPA one shown in another post which I believe is a Delphi style terminal.
I can't seem to find the part # you spoke of for this terminal to go into my fuse block can you send it to me please ?

thank you
 

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