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Discussion Starter #1
Tractor data states that the height to the top of the ROPS is 78.6".

TractorData.com John Deere 1025R tractor dimensions information

I used this data as the basis that it would go through my 7' overhead door without issue and more importantly, that the Cozy Cab would. At the MTF forum, a member there is attempting to ascertain if an awning /shade will.

As GTT seems to have quite a few 1 - series owners posting, I thought I'd do a search here to see if someone posted the measurement. I'm a bit horrified by all the posts of folks clunking the top of the garage door opening with the ROPS. However, I couldn't find where someone actually posted the height measurement from the ground to the top of the ROPS.

  1. Could someone mesure the height from the ground to the top of the ROPS for a 1025R?
  2. Could someone who has a shade or awning measure the height from the ground to the heighest point of the shade top and post the brand/model of the shade?
 

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Mine is 86+ inches from floor to top of ROPS. It's slightly over 86 so I would call it 87" or 7' 3".
 
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At 7'3" mine wont go through my 7' garage door. This summer i am modifying my ROPS.
 
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Hmmm, not what I wanted to hear. That'll be a problem for a 7' door. I have 8' doors at the other home. The Cozy Cab is shorter than the ROPS, so it may fit and Cozy states in their brochure it will. However, all the garage doors I've installed have the panel height being the rated size. So, for a 7' door, the top of the panels would be 7'. The panels have to butt up to the jamb, so at a minimum, that will reduce the actual opening height by 3/4". Possibly more, depending on how the jamb was constructed and weatherstripped.
 

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In a certain position, my snowblower's chute was hitting the rops (some head too) in his 90° position, and I can't fully lower it because the chute hydro control are in the way. I end up with this setup. It top off at 76" 3/4. My door is at 82" 1/2. Future strobe light is about 4". Just perfect.


I did it in 3 steps...3/16, 1/2 and 3/4... some lube...elbow grease...

I drilled 1 hole at a time. Loosening it a little bit cause 3/4 is pretty tight...put a pin in it and check for the measure on the other side...it should be the same. Then the other tube...the measures was a little bit offset. I marked a new center point and drilled one hole at a time and rechecked the measures. Drill. Little loosening......paint and voila !
These holes should be there from the factory and please, don't tell me this is weakening the rops.


Envoyé de mon BV6000 en utilisant Tapatalk
 

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Measurements are Not Static

I just measured the height of my ROPS at just over 85 inches from the floor. I was curious to see the height published to the nearest tenth of an inch in the OP. The height from the floor to anything on the tractor will vary significantly depending upon what ballast or implements you have on the front, back, or middle (MMM). I've measured over an inch of variance and that would not be the extreme case.

For the measurement I just took, I had about 500 lbs. of ballast on the 3-point hitch and my 54 blade on the front (resting on the ground). When a measurement is presented, it would be important to specify what is on the tractor, especially if it's going to be a tight fit. Of course, tire pressure (and wear) would also be a factor. And don't forget that the weight of the operator will affect the final height.
 

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Not sure if this is any help to folks but throwing it out there. After getting another suv and getting home the first time to realize it wouldn't fit into the garage was a bit nerve wrecking until I realized I had enough clearance to clear IF if the door would open another couple inches. I've read a lot about folks bashing the header with the rops for which this will be of no help but if there's anyone not clearing because of their door (and if you have a door opener) there is a set screw to make the door open a touch further unless it's already maxed out. This is very elementary to many but perhaps it is a solution for a few that scroll the threads (both members and non members) looking for some sort of help.
 

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Keep in mind for cold winter people the freeze and thaw will change the door header clearance height. Being I use my tractor on level ground and only use a snowblower or mower deck I have never had the roll bar up. Some inclosed trailer moving around the yard. In fact it's never been up, always folded down.
 

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In a certain position, my snowblower's chute was hitting the rops (some head too) in his 90° position, and I can't fully lower it because the chute hydro control are in the way. I end up with this setup. It top off at 76" 3/4. My door is at 82" 1/2. Future strobe light is about 4". Just perfect.


I did it in 3 steps...3/16, 1/2 and 3/4... some lube...elbow grease...

I drilled 1 hole at a time. Loosening it a little bit cause 3/4 is pretty tight...put a pin in it and check for the measure on the other side...it should be the same. Then the other tube...the measures was a little bit offset. I marked a new center point and drilled one hole at a time and rechecked the measures. Drill. Little loosening......paint and voila !
These holes should be there from the factory and please, don't tell me this is weakening the rops.


Envoyé de mon BV6000 en utilisant Tapatalk
Hey Dann. I like your mod, but wonder how it affects the integrity of the ROPS?

My real question however is it appears you've done some hydraulic mods!! Any chance you could go into detail on that? Pictures are always appreciated:thumbup1gif:
 
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I didn't make any hydro mod. It's the 3rd scv installed by the dealer....I use it for chute control.

I pointes the fact that I cannot lock the rops down because the scv is in the way.

And for the rops's integrity, I'm sure it doesn't weaken it. Also, you got the same holes, from factory, lower on the tubes. And rops are made to prevent rollovers, not as a rollcage. I bet it's better than the 90° position.
 
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