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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all.

Had my 2015r for about 60 hours now and have the box blade, 60" mower, brush crusher and bucket. Have dug ditches, kept out 300ft driveway graded, dug up stumps...etc, loving it. I've had it buried to the point a wrecker had to be called, all the normal fun.

Dropped about 20 trees and cut them into pieces and moved to the back of our property. On one of the moves, a large limb got between the hood and front bar at a perfect angle to grab the front of the hood and snap off the hood latch which is all poly aside from metal latch.

Have read that epoxy wont stick, any experience with other options?

For example: Weldon #4 with Applicator Bottle - 1/4 Pint - 4oz - 10308 - 1 each: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Thanks for the help, I have lurked here forever and have learned a ton
 

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Can you post a picture of the broken piece?
 

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I would bend some tin and Pop rivet it to the remaining hood brackets and then cover it with JB Weld. I don't think there is enough surface area for glue alone to hold. You would have drill and bend the tin to fit so I would not go with to heavy a gauge of metal. Fiberglass cloth would be the other alternative again with JB Weld or other heavy duty epoxy, not the 5 minute type.
 

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That's a bummer.
I think I would just order a new hood or look for a used on eBay or Craigslist. I have seen them for as low as $50.
 

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I agree on getting a new hood. Be aware there are 2 different hoods on the 1025. With or without gas hood shock supports.
 

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You could try a product called PASCOFIX. You can get it from Amazon. Pricey but strong. Youtube has some videoes on it to check out.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
All done and latches well. Cut and glued in a couple of cut pieces of pool noodles to keep the hood from rattling which it has always done. Keeps it snug and sits on black area top of headlight assy.

Hopefully, this patch job will hold long enough to afford a new hood, job on hold due to covid19, gotta poor man it for now...

Thanks everyone

740654
740655
 

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All done and latches well. Cut and glued in a couple of cut pieces of pool noodles to keep the hood from rattling which it has always done. Keeps it snug and sits on black area top of headlight assy.

Hopefully, this patch job will hold long enough to afford a new hood, job on hold due to covid19, gotta poor man it for
Good repair job. I certainly wouldn't waste money on a new hood until that repair let go - which I doubt it ever will. That's probably stronger than the original design.
 

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That's a bummer.
I think I would just order a new hood or look for a used on eBay or Craigslist. I have seen them for as low as $50.
I wouldn't waste $355 on a new hood when the repair the OP did will probably outlast the tractor. :)
 

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Wow! Great job on the repair. If I had known you were that capable of making a quality repair, I would never suggested obtaining a replacement hood.
Great job!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No worries, hood usually stays down but hit a good bump and it would ease up(shock version). Problem was that when I leaned forward to close it, my narrow butt comming off the seat would kill the tractor. 99.9% of the time I forgot to put in neutral. :mad:

Started this project of burying cable and hood kept creaping up.

740656
 

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I would still use some JB Weld on the parts. I would have placed it between the bracket and hood, this would spread the stress across the whole area instead of at the Pop Rivets.
 
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Reactions: Darby

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I think it will last probably better than the original. I am glad you mentioned the issue with the gas struts, I was envious when I saw my Brother-in-Laws 1025R with them and was going to try and figure out how to install them on my 1026R. I will now stay with the toggle lock it came with, I don't need my hood popping open on me, my ground is quite rough and I put a lot of twist on the tractors. I can actually see the 445 hood move back and forth by 1/2 to 3/4 inch in some sections of the property. Not as noticable in the 1026R as the cab hides a good section of the hood when in the drivers seat.
 
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Reactions: Toughsox

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You can do it. easier than maybe it looks. I cut up an aluminum yard stick from hardware store which was easy to grind the right angles and bend with vice grips. Wire brushed the burrs and edges. Drill some rivet holes and some green paint and done.

Home depot/Lowes/Tractor supply also sells aluminum or steel stock in different lenghts and thicknesses, just happened to have yard stick I never used
 
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