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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased a 2014 1025R with 230 hours and noticed drops of hydraulic fluid on the floor. It appears to be coming from the plug. I tried tightening it but it seems tight. I check the hydraulic fluid level each time before operating and it has not changed so haven’t had to add. Is it possible to change plug without having to drain all the fluid?
Tire Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tread
 

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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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Without draining ALL the fluid, yes. Without draining a not insignificant amount, no. I'd guess that a fast out and messy, but fast back in would be a loss near around 1 gallon. It comes out fast initially and trying to put a new bolt in the steam will be messy.
 

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You can try the "put a shop vac on the filler neck" trick to pull negative pressure in the case to help minimize fluid loss, but even that's a gamble.
 

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When I changed the Neutral switch just above the hyd drain plug , I lost between a pt and a qt of fluid.

You have to be QUICK,, and I mean QUICK... For me I lifted the tractor in the air front and rear at least 6".
I think now I would raise the front 3"- 6" higher than the back . You just need room to move quickly and not afraid of getting messy.. :rolleyes: :D :D
 

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I would first confirm that the leak is from the plug and not originating elsewhere and ending up at the plug. Spray/clean the area surrounding the plug with brake cleaner and dry it off vey well. Dust the area with baby powder and as the leak takes place you will see exactly where the leak is coming from. If it is the plug leaking, for the $100, I would just go ahead and drain it all and do the hydraulic service. Drop the plug, washer or find a burr on the case or washer and you are in a bind if you were not prepared to drain all the fluid. New oil, clean filters and screens is never a bad thing. Tractors don’t leak, they mark their territory!
 

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I would first confirm that the leak is from the plug and not originating elsewhere and ending up at the plug. Spray/clean the area surrounding the plug with brake cleaner and dry it off vey well. Dust the area with baby powder and as the leak takes place you will see exactly where the leak is coming from. If it is the plug leaking, for the $100, I would just go ahead and drain it all and do the hydraulic service. Drop the plug, washer or find a burr on the case or washer and you are in a bind if you were not prepared to drain all the fluid. New oil, clean filters and screens is never a bad thing. Tractors don’t leak, they mark their territory!
The highlighted part is precisely how i would proceed. Chances are, the leak is coming from somewhere else and it just drips off the plug being the low point on the case. It takes a little investigative work to confirm / find the actual drip source. Personally, I would work on locating the source and then when its time for the next service, I would resolve the leak at that time.

If you don't know when the machine was last serviced, you may want to plan the oil change and hydro service sooner rather than later.

But here is a very important thing to be aware of. Please take a picture of your engine with the hood fully opened. Stand in front of the tractor and take the picture from there. We need to confirm whether your machine is using the original mounting system for the air cleaner assembly or whether its been updated to the proper system. If you take the picture and post it, we can very easily confirm is this is something you need to make a high priority repair / upgrade.

Here is the original orientation of the air cleaner on a 2014 JD 1025r. The air cleaner canister is mounted to the top of the engine and the canister is aligned front to back with the engine.

Product Rectangle Font Screenshot Parallel



Here is the upgraded Air cleaner orientation, which is mounted to the radiator core support and it sits sideways to the engine, at the front of the engine.

Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Technology


This is much more of an urgent manner than is the small drip leak from the rear hydro. Please read the sticky thread at the top of the SCUT category about the air cleaner assemblies and possible catastrophic engine damage from the vibration of the mounting bracket mounted to the top cover of the engine.

Everything you will need, including the part numbers, and even the John Deere service bulletins,etc. In some cases, John Deere will pay the cost of the replacement. At worse, its about a $130 expense for you, but Its something you need to double check and MAKE SURE its been addressed on your machine. You do not want to go through an engine replacement over this issue, when a few simple steps can avoid it.

I mention this to you because the 2013 to 2017 model 1025r's have the troublesome air cleaner mount, which should be replaced with the new style.

Please don't hesitate to ask any questions you might have. This is a very important issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would first confirm that the leak is from the plug and not originating elsewhere and ending up at the plug. Spray/clean the area surrounding the plug with brake cleaner and dry it off vey well. Dust the area with baby powder and as the leak takes place you will see exactly where the leak is coming from. If it is the plug leaking, for the $100, I would just go ahead and drain it all and do the hydraulic service. Drop the plug, washer or find a burr on the case or washer and you are in a bind if you were not prepared to drain all the fluid. New oil, clean filters and screens is never a bad thing. Tractors don’t leak, they mark their territory!
Is a small leak (drops) something I should be concerned about?
 

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Change it when you do a fluid change. If it's just a drip every once in a while don't over think it.
 

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Just keep an eye on the leak. Generally, any leak should be addressed if the repair is reasonable. But when the leak is very minor and it doesn't measurably change the fluid level, I would delay dealing with it until it can be done with a full machine service, etc.

Sometimes, the leak can be because of grass or other debris wrapped around the Mid Mount Mower PTO shaft connection point. Take a close look where the mower connects to the tractor and make sure there isn't grass or other debris tightly wrapped around the shaft and possibly displacing the seal. This grass and weeds are usually between the end of the PTO shaft coupling and the PTO shaft output seal, inside the case housing.

If there is grass or weeds or anything else wrapped around the Output shaft from the PTO make sure to carefully remove all of the debris. It may require needle nose pliers or even dental instruments to fully remove some of this debris. The debris is often very tightly wound around the base of the PTO shaft and not as obvious as you would think. Check carefully at the point where the shaft and the seal are located, as grass / weeds can wrap around the PTO shaft base and then displace the seal slightly, causing the occasional drip.

Also, machines which have been parked for some time often will have seals dry out or leak slightly when they are used. Often, these leaks will stop when the machines seals loosen up and are lubricated once again. I would use the tractor, keep an eye and check the fluids each time you use it and just monitor the leak, etc.

If you are new to small, diesel engine tractors, I strongly suggest you familiarize yourself with using a diesel fuel treatment in your machines fuel, year around. Diesel fuel is susceptible to moisture and as the saying goes, fuel and water just don't mix.

If the temps get cold where you live, its very important the diesel fuel be treated so the fuel flows in all temperature ranges and the fuel filters don't freeze. There are numerous threads on diesel fuel and treatments. If you have questions, just ask the GTT members.
 

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You could consider buying a Mityvac to remove the hydraulic fluid from the top. Then you'd have all the time you need to fiddle with the plug. I bought one for this when my drain plug bolt head rounded off and I was unable to remove it easily. It worked so well I have continued to use it for all of my hydraulic fluid changes and don't even mess around with a drain pan under the tractor. In your case it will make re-using the drained fluid a breeze.
 

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Is that plug/Bolt supposed to have an aluminum washer under it?
 

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It could be a leak from higher up. Mine had a leak at the flow divider. It's under the seat behind left rear wheel. It would drip down and hang on a bolt on the bottom appearing like the photo above.

Some hydraulic dye may help identify the source of the problem. MT3668
John Deere Hydraulic Oil Dye - MT3668
 
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Well, I am confused. I have been looking for the transmission drain plug for my 1025R.

Based on a thread a few years back where the transmission plug part number was given as R27218, I ordered one. It did not fit.
1025R - Stripped Transmission Oil Plug
Food Yellow Gas Dairy Ingredient


In a later thread, someone else also ordered R27218, and had similar fit problems to me.

The part number given above, T111565, appears to be for the engine oil pan drain plug, not the transmission drain plug.
Font Automotive lighting Rectangle Parallel Automotive exterior


And here is another thread which started with a leak from the transmission drain plug, and confirms the presence of a washer under the transmission drain plug, but no part numbers for the plug or the washer.

And I still cannot locate part numbers for the transmission drain plug or the washer. The illustration of the transmission in the Deere parts diagram is from above and in front of the transmission, so the bottom doesn't show. Am I missing something in the parts section that shows the transmission underside and back?
 

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Yep...That is an engine oil pan.

Perhaps we can get a slight revision from Ken.
 

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Perhaps we can get a slight revision from Ken.
Sorry for trying to help....

As a reminder, JDParts is FREE to use by ANYBODY...Not just me.

 

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This is all I see for a drain plug on the trans case, but it seems to be in the wrong location.

Slope Rectangle Font Map Parallel
 
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And I still cannot locate part numbers for the transmission drain plug or the washer. The illustration of the transmission in the Deere parts diagram is from above and in front of the transmission, so the bottom doesn't show. Am I missing something in the parts section that shows the transmission underside and back?
You have to look at the axle housing diagram.

Pretty sure these are the part numbers:

Bolt - M811712
Washer - M811593

Part 9 and 10 in the picture.


 
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