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Hello everyone - While moving some of the snow in my yard around over the weekend I noticed that my 1025r tractor was going forward when I was not pushing down on the "go" pedal. Upon further inspection I found that the forward pedal was not returning to it rest position as it always did but was stay down as if I was still pressing on it. I had to press down on the reverse pedal to get the forward pedal to rise back up again. I looked underneath and don't really see anything wrong except the forward pedal simply will not return to the neutral position on it's own. Any thoughts....?
 

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Spring....
 
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I believe your dampener may be going bad. It is #14 below.

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Forward and Reverse Pedals and Linkage
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTYSERIAL NO.REMARKS
1AM123565Ball Bearing2
2LVU23519Bolt1
303M7192Bolt2M10 X 30
4H156360Nut2
519M7897Bolt2
614M7517Lock Nut4M10
724H1806Washer137/64" X 7/8" X 0.036"
8M115584Nut1
9LVU23154Cam1
1014M7400Lock Nut2M10
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTYSERIAL NO.REMARKS
11LVU23153Rod1
12M78599Bolt1
13LVU23265Eccentric1
14LVA17758Gas Operated Cylinder1
1514M7396Lock Nut2M8
16M145610Bolt1
17LVU23277Lever1
1824M7047Washer113 X 24 X 2.500 mm
19M144705Spring Locking Pin1
2014M7274Nut1M10
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTYSERIAL NO.REMARKS
2119M7804Bolt1
22LVA10717Link End1
23M115678Support2
24LVA17260Bracket1
25LVU23151Pedal1Reverse
26LVU19271Bushing4
2724H1368Washer121/32" X 1-5/16" X 0.090"
28LVU20817Bushing6
29GX20093Push Nut4
30LVA16162Shaft1
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTYSERIAL NO.REMARKS
31LVU23278Link2
32LVU23152Pedal1Forward
 

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Any snow or ice restricting damper operation? Is visual inspection possible? Dan
 
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Dealer replaced my damper at 30 hours, but my problem was that I was having trouble getting into gear w/o feathering the pedal. I tried the neutral creep adjustment and it helped but didn't fix the problem.
 

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I'd go right to the damper myself. It's real easy to inspect the linkage to see what's going on without the tractor running.:good2:
 

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I'd go right to the damper myself. It's real easy to inspect the linkage to see what's going on without the tractor running.:good2:
Replaced the damper on my GX335 (probably the same size/number?) inside 120hrs. New one went after about 60hrs. Now @ 850+hrs I'm so used to tapping the reverse pedal to stop I don't know if I want to spend the $'s for another crappy part. Guess I'll just keep tip-toeing along with it... More cheap-o spec'd JD parts.
 

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Forward pedal gas damper broken

Hello all. I experienced the same problem on my brand new 1025R purchased in April 2015. At 10 hours the forward pedal would no longer return to neutral. Now has 17.5 hours so I've used it a bit and while you can get along without repairing this (tap reverse pedal or use brake), it's annoying and if the ground you are mowing is uneven as mine is, just running wide open all the time is not an option. So I finally took the cover off today to see what I might find. Thanks to the posts above, I had a good idea what to look for. Sure enough, the gas damper broke where the connector and the damper meet. I've attached a photo for reference. I hope this helps others in the future diagnose this problem quickly.

Now one question, how do you remove the back side of the damper? Not the end that attatches to the linkage, but the fixed end? Appreciate any help on that. Thanks!
 

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I am under the impression that there should be linkage adjustments that can be made. I am pretty sure my repair manual contains info to make said adjustments. Not to say that the dampener isn't going bad, but I'd try making a pedal adjustment first.
 

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My fix for this was...

A friend encouraged me to post these here so I'll try it!

I have about 100 hours on my 1025r tractor and for no apparent reason the forward pedal would refuse to come back up to neutral. I did some searching and there wasn't much out on the web but after a lot of laying underneath the machine and not coming up with anything I pulled the plastic cover off from under the seat to expose the strut/shock that is connected to the pedals and I found that the yoke from the shock had just wallowed around enough to mostly strip out the threads and it wouldn't stay on. I put it back on as tight as it would go and just drilled a hole through it all and put a tension pin in to keep it all together.

Auto part Fuel line Pipe Automotive fuel system Engine

Auto part Pipe Fuel line Gear Steel

Auto part Automotive exterior Bumper Pipe Fuel line
 

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My fix for this was...

A friend encouraged me to post these here so I'll try it!

I have about 100 hours on my 1025r tractor and for no apparent reason the forward pedal would refuse to come back up to neutral. I did some searching and there wasn't much out on the web but after a lot of laying underneath the machine and not coming up with anything I pulled the plastic cover off from under the seat to expose the strut/shock that is connected to the pedals and I found that the yoke from the shock had just wallowed around enough to mostly strip out the threads and it wouldn't stay on. I put it back on as tight as it would go and just drilled a hole through it all and put a tension pin in to keep it all together.

View attachment 457810
View attachment 457818
View attachment 457826
Good morning, I did this fix and was successful. However the threaded rod broke where drilled after a couple hours use, so I guess I drilled the hole too large for the rod. I only had a soft cotter pin, a small hole with drift pin and trou did in the pics above would have been preferred obviously. Just a heads up to not drill the hole overly large.
 

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Dealer replaced my damper at 30 hours, but my problem was that I was having trouble getting into gear w/o feathering the pedal. I tried the neutral creep adjustment and it helped but didn't fix the problem.
As far as I know, this is a known behavior on all 1025r / 1023e (and I'm sure other) tractors. The gears are just straight gears and you've got to get them lined up properly. Mine does it (it's sometimes annoying), but a quick pedal-bump usually realigns everything and I'm off to the races.
 
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