Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All,

I'm sure someone has posted something about this in the past but I can't find it so I'll run it by again.

I replaced the the inline fuel filter that is located under the foot board and noticed that one of the squeeze type hose clamps was leaking fuel. I tried to find new ones but no one including the John Deer dealer had any, although I did find some that were close to the size I needed at Lowe's. Anyway, does anyone know of a reason why you shouldn't use the screw on worm drive type clamps? I understand you should't over tighten the clamp since the filter is plastic but with a little common sense they should work, Right? If anyone knows of any unforeseen problems using these types of hose clamps please let me know.

20181126_164650.jpg

Thanks
Overdone
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
20,884 Posts
The spring type clamps are actually far superior to worm style clamps. They maintain pressure rather than stay locked in (usually over tightened) and putting uneven pressure on the hose and fitting. Spring style also never need re-tightening.

I'd be willing to bet it's not the clamp that your issue. I'd say its the hose or some debris in the way. Try trimming 1/4" off the end of the leaking hose and see if that works. :good2:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,158 Posts
Hi All,

I'm sure someone has posted something about this in the past but I can't find it so I'll run it by again.

I replaced the the inline fuel filter that is located under the foot board and noticed that one of the squeeze type hose clamps was leaking fuel. I tried to find new ones but no one including the John Deer dealer had any, although I did find some that were close to the size I needed at Lowe's. Anyway, does anyone know of a reason why you shouldn't use the screw on worm drive type clamps? I understand you should't over tighten the clamp since the filter is plastic but with a little common sense they should work, Right? If anyone knows of any unforeseen problems using these types of hose clamps please let me know.



Thanks
Overdone


SPring clamps are more consistent and seem more reliable as well. As wet as things appear up the hose, I wonder if it's not the rubber hose itself.

I HATE having to run to get one or two of something like spring clamps or even the "worm clamps" and I have built assortments over the years. I recently added these just because of the spring clamps on the 1025R so I would have a varety of extras when I needed. For $15, it's worth the convenience to me to have these in the spare parts kits....

Sometimes when removing the spring clamp, you can bend one of the ears or other wise "tweak" the clamp, Its nice to be able to not re use a clamp which might be compromised and just install a new quality clamp instead.

WGCD 155 PCS Spring Clips Silicone Vacuum Fuel Hose Line Water Pipe Air Tube Clamps Fasteners Assortment Kit 6mm 8mm 10mm 12mm 14mm 15mm 16mm 18mm 20mm 22mm - - Amazon.com


Also, these were EXTREMELY handy for changing that filter........They have a slide adjustable feature so you can use them on a variety of size lines and hoses..



Amazon.com: ARES 71160 | 3-Piece Angled Hose Pinch Off Plier Set | Lightweight and Durable Design | For Use While Repairing Coolant, Brake, Vacuum and Fuel Systems | Clamps 10mm, 15mm and 24mm Hoses: Automotive
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,158 Posts
I grabbed a handful of the inline filters which were in a bulk bin at a "tool sale" vendor at a swap meet this summer . I think they were selling them for $1 each or 10 for $7, so I grabbed 10 as they are used on my tractor, zero turn and other items. Very simple, usually straight forward item.

Recently, when looking at the filters closely, I noticed the hose nipples were not perfectly round and appeared to have been crushed or flattened just slightly. They were more oval than round....

After thinking about it, if the plastic is weak on the nipple it could crush or flatten even more when clamped. Since the inlet and outlet were "compromised" I could see where these would possibly leak inside the hose, or have the nipple break, I didn't want to take a chance, so in the trash they went.

I could just imagine the filter under the floor board having an issue when its -10 and snowing like crazy and I had just filled the fuel tank. It's not worth the risk to me.....

But maybe the leaking side of the hose or filter is due to the hose not sealing around the filter inlet / outlet which could certainly cause a leak or drip......
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,749 Posts
The spring type clamps are actually far superior to worm style clamps. They maintain pressure rather than stay locked in (usually over tightened) and putting uneven pressure on the hose and fitting. Spring style also never need re-tightening.
^^^ what he said. I used to be a big worm-style clamp user until I saw the light.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mikdor and JD4044M

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,925 Posts
I bought a few cheap priced In-Line Fuel Filters off ebay they included the filter a short hose and 4 clamps. Darn rubber hose broke down in just a few months and cracked! I put one on a mower and went to drain the fuel for the winter and the fuel was gone out of the tank. It all leaked out of the cracked hose. China sells some dangerous fuel related stuff to us in the USA! Now I will always buy good rated hose and throw those short hoses that come with the filters away!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
That was a sorry mistake by JD. The 2025R has basically the same engine, etc. but has no inline filter.

I was tempted to just replace the one on my 1025R when I had it (for less than 2 years: a lemon) but didn't. Could do it with a proper sized piece of steel or copper tubing.

Ralph
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,043 Posts
While my 1025R was still in warranty, I had diesel leaking near the fuel filter. I did a quick inspection and found everything appeared to be in good order. (No visible damage from road debris, and you can't tighten a spring clamp.) I decided that since it was under warranty, I'd let the dealer handle this one. I was in the process of buying a FEL from them, so they offered free pickup and delivery. (Dealer ownership has since changed.)

When my tractor came back, I had to get under it and take a look. They had replaced the hose piece between the tank and the filter. It appeared they had cut a bit off the end of the longer hose going up to the fuel pump to get a "fresh" end. And they had replaced all the spring clamps with worm gear clamps.

Based on other experiences with my dealer (now under new ownership), I would not assume that they know what they are doing. However, that was years ago and I've had no problems since that time. I've replaced the in-line filter annually and I'm very careful to tighten the worm gear clamps the same as they are before I start. You can count the exposed notches on the band to see how tight it is. I do worry about over-tightening with this type of clamp.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kylew

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
SPring clamps are more consistent and seem more reliable as well. As wet as things appear up the hose, I wonder if it's not the rubber hose itself.

I HATE having to run to get one or two of something like spring clamps or even the "worm clamps" and I have built assortments over the years. I recently added these just because of the spring clamps on the 1025R so I would have a varety of extras when I needed. For $15, it's worth the convenience to me to have these in the spare parts kits....

Sometimes when removing the spring clamp, you can bend one of the ears or other wise "tweak" the clamp, Its nice to be able to not re use a clamp which might be compromised and just install a new quality clamp instead.

WGCD 155 PCS Spring Clips Silicone Vacuum Fuel Hose Line Water Pipe Air Tube Clamps Fasteners Assortment Kit 6mm 8mm 10mm 12mm 14mm 15mm 16mm 18mm 20mm 22mm - - Amazon.com


Also, these were EXTREMELY handy for changing that filter........They have a slide adjustable feature so you can use them on a variety of size lines and hoses..



Amazon.com: ARES 71160 | 3-Piece Angled Hose Pinch Off Plier Set | Lightweight and Durable Design | For Use While Repairing Coolant, Brake, Vacuum and Fuel Systems | Clamps 10mm, 15mm and 24mm Hoses: Automotive
I did remove about 1/2 inch of hose and retried the original clamp but it also leaked so I'm thinking the clamp may be bad and since no one in my area had one like it I used the worm drive screw on clamp.
It's been in use for 3 days and no leaks so I think I will be able to get through the winter without any problems and this coming spring I will order the correct clamps and replace the hose and clamps just to be sure. Besides I don't want to drain the tank when it is full of fuel.

But thinks for the information.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone for all your thoughts on the clamp issue. I would have to agree that the spring type clamps are a better choice. I don't understand why the John Deere dealerships in my area don't stock them. I couldn't even find the correct size at NAPA and I tried one that was packaged as 1/2 in OD at Lowe's but it was just a little bigger than what I needed.

I think it will be okay until spring and at that time I am going to replace the hose and get the correct clamps besides it's full of fuel and too cold to be working under it.

Again thanks you for your help.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,140 Posts
Thanks everyone for all your thoughts on the clamp issue. I would have to agree that the spring type clamps are a better choice. I don't understand why the John Deere dealerships in my area don't stock them. I couldn't even find the correct size at NAPA and I tried one that was packaged as 1/2 in OD at Lowe's but it was just a little bigger than what I needed.

I think it will be okay until spring and at that time I am going to replace the hose and get the correct clamps besides it's full of fuel and too cold to be working under it.

Again thanks you for your help.
I have a slightly different perspective on this clamp conversation.

I'm not sure the type of clamp is a big issue on a fuel line. I know the spring clamp manufacturers say theirs are better due to even clamping forces and they have the ability to maintain tension in different temperatures and over time. This is true, although, I personally think spring type clamps were made due to the cost of worm screw clamps. Just sayin!!

I have read all of the claims from the spring clamp manufacturers and am old enough to remember when they started to be used, even on hydraulic suction and return lines. Essentially, they built a clamp that will hold constant tension and it is economical, but questionable whether it can be taken off and re-used time and again. I have no confidence in re-using these spring type clamps. I have seen them leak and cause cavitation problems in hydraulic systems too many times after they have been removed and reinstalled.

That said, fuel line clamps on a fuel filter get removed often, at least once a year. Removing and reinstalling spring type clamps will weaken them. My personal choice is good quality aviation style worm screw hose clamps. I have replaced my fuel filter and suction hydraulic line clamps with good quality worm drive clamps. On my hydraulic suction line, I replaced the spring clamps with constant pressure worm drive clamps (see illustration). These are easily removable and can be re-used with confidence and also maintain tension over time and temperature change.

Spring type clamps are made single wire, double wire and band type. The single wire type creates the most clamping force, double wire is second and band type is third. Again, the issue is, removing and reinstalling.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
When you change the filter, do you make any provision for getting the air out of the line, or do you just start it and let it run ?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,003 Posts
When you change the filter, do you make any provision for getting the air out of the line, or do you just start it and let it run ?
If you just turn the key without starting, it will bleed the air out for you.(Per manual) It is specific to the canister filter replacement but does the whole line.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bumper
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top