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1025r instrument panel replacement

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4K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  cardoc4406  
#1 ·
2014 1025r out of warranty
Issue with instrument panel- the backing sticker has peeled up and is blocking the needles from working.
i bought a replacement, but I’m curious if any ones done this job before? Is it hard to replace? How does the new one know my engine hours?
 
#2 ·
How does the new one know my engine hours?
I don't think you can update the hour meter so you'll need to note the current engine hours and manually add that to what the new meter shows.
 
#3 ·
As far as I know, it doesn’t. You will need to get something like a Ptouch label and place it on the dashboard somewhere. I know on some tractors like my 445, I can leave the key on and the hour meter will advance without the engine running. Might be able to trick the new dash to advance on the bench with the appropriate jumpers.
 
#7 ·
I read somewhere in a tech manual excerpt somebody posted what signals the cluster needs to count hours. I believe it needs to see oil pressure + engine RPM above n RPM, with n being some preset value. This is actually good because leaving the key on by accident won't accumulate hours!

I also believe I read that newer clusters (from x serial number onward) actually CAN be updated with the current hours by a John Deere dealer. Might call your dealer about this.

Or, if you have a function generator you could jump the oil pressure input and feed it a valid tach signal for several hours.

Or, if you can locate the chipset containing the hours, you could possibly just swap that over from your old cluster. Not sure but I'd bet it's a tiny SMD type, if so you'll need a hot air rework unit to do this.
 
#9 ·
Hi All
My 2014 build did the same thing (the needle would not go past vertical and stick there sometimes) it was replaced under warranty. The tractor had 62 hrs on it, the dealer wrote on the back of the new dash "installed at 62 hrs". I have to remember to add 62 to what ever hrs the dash says.
The new dash was a different part number to the original dash ( it looked exactly the same), so I assumed there was a problem with the original and it was superseded with a better design.
Regards John
 
#10 ·
Any possibility you could remove the glass and re-stick the label down? I know on the 4x5 models, we have a template to make new glass and repair the fuel and temp gauges? Could not hurt as you have a new cluster and I can't see you hurting the resale value, if you have solid documentation of the hours when the cluster was changed. With the Receipt, Sticker of the hours and pictures of the hours when changed you have a solid evidance trail. Some people would be dishonest and let people believe the low hours displayed was the actual hours and if not ask would not say anything or lie outright. I as a buyer, would appreciate the evidence and honesty you would be providing. When I sold my Boat, the hour meter had failed somewhere over the 400 hour mark and I replaced it and kept the old meter. When I gave it to the new owner and with the sticker I had on the dash he was very happy.
 
#11 ·
I just repaired the cluster of my 3720 for the same issue. See this thread.
 
#12 ·
You asked how hard the replacement is.

There are a few tedious things involved In disassembly and reassembly, but If you go about It methodically it is a straightforward job with little to go wrong unless you drop a nut or screw and it disappears on you. Getting your hands in between the loosened console to remove and reattach all the wiring connectors can be frustrating since you are largely going by feel and can’t see how they are locked. My guesstimate, if you have not removed the steering wheel and center console before is about half a day. Maybe 2 hours if you have already experienced being in there to do things like ignition switch replacement or working on the steering column.

If you need any specific details post back. I've been in there a few times on my 1025R.
 
#14 ·
I did my 2016 about a month ago,took a couple hours.As mentioned the connectors can be stubborn.There are 4 screws holding the IP in place.Once removed you can pull it pack some and disconnect the park brake rod from the handle.The more connectors removed the further back you can pull the dash over the steering column, then you can remove the the cluster from the dash assembly. Make sure the harnesses go back to their OE positions so it goes down properly.
My dealer told me there is no way to update the hour meter.I used a paint pen to record the hours on the back side.
It may have a new part number because it addresses the PTO sudden engagement problem.
Just take your time and you will do fine.
 
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#16 ·
I did my 2016 about a month ago,took a couple hours.As mentioned the connectors can be stubborn.There are 4 screws holding the IP in place.Once removed you can pull it pack some and disconnect the park brake rod from the handle.The more connectors removed the further back you can pull the dash over the steering column, then you can remove the the cluster from the dash assembly. Make sure the harnesses go back to their OE positions so it goes down properly.
My dealer told me there is no way to update the hour meter.I used a paint pen to record the hours on the back side.
It may have a new part number because it addresses the PTO sudden engagement problem.
Just take your time and you will do fine.
Thanks so much. So you just remove the hood and side panels, pull the 4 screws from the back, and then remove stuff as you need to? How is there not a video of this on youtube?! lol
 
#15 ·
As for getting the correct hours on the new panel. If it was me, I'd figure out if the hour meter will run with 12 volt power connected to it. If so I would just connect it to a 12 volt battery and figure out how long it would need to be connected to the power source in order to get to the hours on the original instrument panel. There are 168 hours in a week, so unless there are thousands of hours on the tractor it shouldn't take that many days to get to the right hours. I'd try this first on the original, already broken instrument panel, not wanting to take a chance of damaging the new one.
 
#18 ·
It is repairs like this, and most others, where the TSM sure is handy. Yes, its expensive, but it also has a lot of really good information in it and you only need to buy it once (for that machine)..........I would only purchase an actual Deere Technical Service Manual and I would get it for YOUR serial number machine, because it does make a difference.

Also, ignore the "discounted" TSM's sold online by so many companies on Ebay, etc. I would also not bother with the advertised "Free Downloads" as they are not what you think. Most are a joke. You look up "Dash Module Replacement" and it says something like

1. ""Using the appropriate tools, Remove the dash module using the common methods by loosening and removing the necessary dash fasteners. Reinstall in the reverse order of the process you used to disassemble the unit... "" (Isn't that helpful?)


The actual OEM Deere TSM will tell you step by step what you need to do and also has illustrations, etc. The TSM also contains wiring schematics, hydraulic flow theory and function and many useful sections and helpful information,

Here is the link to order the TSM....Make sure to pick the language you want, the North American model edition and the correct serial number range of the machine as there are now 3 different Technical Manuals (which used to be called Technical Service Manual).

You can order a PDF download or a book version of the Technical Manual. Be careful as they also have Owners Manuals ], Parts manuals and other manuals for the owners use all available on this site........





 
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#19 ·
It is repairs like this, and most others, where the TSM sure is handy. Yes, its expensive, but it also has a lot of really good information in it and you only need to buy it once (for that machine)..........I would only purchase an actual Deere Technical Service Manual and I would get it for YOUR serial number machine, because it does make a difference.

Also, ignore the "discounted" TSM's sold online by so many companies on Ebay, etc. I would also not bother with the advertised "Free Downloads" as they are not what you think. Most are a joke. You look up "Dash Module Replacement" and it says something like

1. ""Using the appropriate tools, Remove the dash module using the common methods by loosening and removing the necessary dash fasteners. Reinstall in the reverse order of the process you used to disassemble the unit... "" (Isn't that helpful?)


The actual OEM Deere TSM will tell you step by step what you need to do and also has illustrations, etc. The TSM also contains wiring schematics, hydraulic flow theory and function and many useful sections and helpful information,

Here is the link to order the TSM....Make sure to pick the language you want, the North American model edition and the correct serial number range of the machine as there are now 3 different Technical Manuals (which used to be called Technical Service Manual).

You can order a PDF download or a book version of the Technical Manual. Be careful as they also have Owners Manuals ], Parts manuals and other manuals for the owners use all available on this site........





I ordered mine thru my local dealer after I bought my 1025r privately so if they ordered the wrong one it was on them. Turns out it was much less expensive than that link.(about 2 years ago)