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so I can write a book but will try to keep this short a sweet....NOT this is just on the tractor and 56" snow blower

I bought a 1025r 3 years ago with 54" D.O. deck, vacuum/collection unit, 54" snow blower and from day one the issues started......oh and customer service at dealer sucks.....why do I feel like I'm getting the run around and guilty for having issues with a new $28 000 tractor......only reason I bought green was for quality and service.....which I got neither!

so day one I unloaded the unit to go mow a clients yard.....looked back and the unit was digging up the grass on corners and not feeling right on the first few corners.....found out the diff lock was JAMMED on cause it was bent up (from shipping???) not sure what was PDI if this was not checked?

first week I complained about fuel consumption and smoke and bad starting.....was told all is normal with bad starting on these "new engines" I was comparing it all to my 25 year old 455 with the same diesel engine but with 2000 hours and 25 years old.......455, 2100 hours, burns 5.5 hours on a tank, 20ish liters, starts at -20 c with out a single issue and only bucks for 2-3 seconds, no smoke after 30 seconds........new 1025r, new to 623 hours, 2.5-3 hours on a tank, 20ish liters, cant start at -20c unless plugged in and cycled glow plugs 5-6 times and when started it bucked and farted and stalled for 2-3 minutes......told dealer something is wrong.....they kept telling that is just the way the new tier 4 engine is.....I said "isn't the idea of buying a new engine, to get better technology and more economical.....and NOT go back wards.....why buy new to burn 2times more fuel".......I got no answer except once again "that is just how the new tier 4 engine runs.....so my biggest pet peeve is people that try to bull $h!t me.....I'm a machinist, mechanic, welder fabricator, with many years of wrenching and yes I'm a perfectionist but do not bull $h!t me.......so after 2 years of complaining and bringing the tractor to get the 3 point hitch fixed (another issue or 2 to fallow after this rant lol) they said oh you have a leaking injector so they changed all 3 of them......great! not sure why it took 2 years of complaining to get it done.......so now tractor gets 5.5-6 hours of snow blowing done with no real smoke issues.....still starts like **** when cold even on a normal summer day on first start up.....but fuel consumption is much better.....even better than my old 455 when cutting grass......oh like I told JD it should have been.....lol ok so I will stop on this issue but more to follow on this issue in a bit....lol

so one of the top mounts ears broke off the 3-point hitch which is part of the "rock shaft" housing......backed into the shop put the blade down and I heard a "ping" looked back and saw the piece sitting on the floor......WTF so that was the easiest warranty job.....they just fixed and replaced the whole hosing with a new one.......not a cheep fix for sure.....not sure why JD does not have a replaceable bolt on top mount for the 3-point hitch......real bad design but I guess if it breaks after warranty it costs the costumer 5000-6000 bucks I'm sure......another bad design oh and I keep replacing a washer inside the rock shaft height leaver every 75 hours.....the rubber washer that is $20 and half hour to change....I now buy them 6 at a time.....WTF is there not an upgraded part.....I'm going to spin a few UHMW washers on the lathe when I find time.....lol

so now back to the engine......I have noticed since they have done the the injectors the engine is now going through half a liter of oil every 50 hours.....if I was to go the 200 hours between oil changes like JD says I would be empty......so leaky injector washed down cylinder and caused rings not to seat? that my guess.....I still have 3 months left of power train warranty.......so dealing with that right now......I dont want a band-aid fix.....I want a new crate engine with a 2 year warranty cause it will blow up in 6 months cause of a band aid fix....when I bought this tractor my plan was to keep it for 20 years like my old 25 year old 455 that had no issues but just getting old and I wanted 4x4.

so 2 years 9 moths later I'm getting pi$$ed with John Deere on the PTO shaft for the snow bower......they changed the shaft from the 1.5" tube to the 2.0" tube the first 100 hours (first winter) and bearings on steady bearing at 200 hours (snow blower) and now every thing is toast from both shafts to brackets are cracking to bolts breaking.......told them right from the start the PTO shafts need to be balanced......so yesterday it got dropped off (3 hour drive again) and I said this is now getting dealt with right.....I'm NOT buying 2 new shafts to run my snow blower every single year.......he said its off warranty......I looked at him and said I don't care if it is or not.....this issue has not been fixed right from the first 50 hours when I said there was a problem and I said a new shaft wont fix it.....unless it was balanced......so waiting for a phone call today cause it started to snow again and looks like snow is coming tomorrow again......dealership has no rental or loaner unit to use so when it is down I'm fu(k3d! I'm going to drive another 3 hours tonight to pick up weather it is fixed or not cause I need to use tomorrow......I do a band-aid balanced with a felt marker and a $h!t load of hose clamps to balance it close enough to get another 20 hours out of it even tho right now it is so done it will probably blow apart in 10 hours.......

so I stopped at a closer dealer (not John Deere) yesterday when coming home to test drive a new tractor with a 6 year warranty.....and said crunch some numbers......a month ago I was there and test drove one.....oh my god it was quiet and started beautiful......I asked my John Deere dealer if I could compare the sound of my transmission to a new 1025r......I drive the 1025r 20 feet and put it in reverse and backed up and shut it down......I said to the sales guy "my transmission is fu(kED.......it whines so loud I never really noticed it till I compared the new (competitors) tractor I drove.....I just wanted to compare my 623 hour 1025r to a new 1025r unit.......so now tranny is toast.....I complained 3 times of metal on the pick up screen when I did transaxle oil change at 50 hours, 250 hours, 450 hours......and now at 623 it whines so bad you need ear plugs but I'm half deaf so over 3 years I did not really notice it till I test drove another.....

so overall issues

PTO shafts
PTO bearing
bolts and brackets braked from vibration from PTO shaft
engine
transmission
rock shaft housing replacement
rock shaft height leaver washers

issues I have modified to make work like they should for a $28 000 unit
snow blower chute mod....more pulleys so cute will rotate enough to blow backwards (270 degs now)
light switch at Knee is not right
seat springs.....at 200 pounds with my winter clothes the seat is bottomed out
many #40 chains in the snow blower....should have #60 (next mod when PTO shafts get figured out
many hours of balancing PTO shafts (every 20 hours) with a felt and crap load of hose clamps


so this is issues with just tractor and snow blower......I can write another book on the drive over mower deck, vacuum and bag unit that will blow your mind.....LOL

am I asking to much from my dealer? I figure after spending $28 000 plus on a new unit it should blow snow and cut grass......or do I have to get out of the green and go red?

I don't abuse my equipment.....I have a 455 that is 25 years old and looks new with 2000 hours.....I cut grass and blow snow for a living and I'm a one man show so I know every issue with every piece of equipment I have......the 1025 has been a nightmare.......this is my first thread here so I hope I did not make any one mad.......you guys have so much info here......
 

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Just from reading that I get the impression that your dealer pis*ed in your corn flakes and you sh*t in their Wheaties and the relationship became sour. Maybe a different dealer/service department that neither of you have any experience with the other would be a good start before warranty runs out. I have had bad luck with an auto dealer before that I purchased new truck from. There was some issues that was not getting resolved at selling dealer so I went to the next town to a different service department and calmly explained the issues (I never mentioned the other dealer nor did I put them down in any way). They were happy to do the warranty work and they were the last who had to touch that truck for anything warranty related. They beyond took care of the product, not me. I couldn't ask for better service in the end.
 

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Just from reading that I get the impression that your dealer pis*ed in your corn flakes and you sh*t in their Wheaties and the relationship became a cluster fu*k from there. Maybe a different dealer/service department that neither of you have any experience with the other would be a good start before warranty runs out. I have had bad luck with an auto dealer before that I purchased new truck from. After giving them multiple opportunities to fix the issues I went to the next town to a different service department and calmly explained the issues (I never mentioned the other dealer nor did I put them down in any way). They were happy to do the warranty work and they were the last who had to touch that truck for anything warranty related. They beyond took care of the product, not me. I couldn't ask for better service in the end.
I would love to find another dealer......only problem is the company that owns the dealership that is 3 hours away owns the other one in the opposite direction 3 hours a way and the one even farther away.....I just got a call 5 mins ago from the dealership.....said its fixed....they put another shaft in it....I said its not fixed....we have done this and it only lasts 50 hours till I have to band aid it to get it to make it to 100 hours.....I told them to get some one from corporate john deere to get ahold of me.....this is getting to be a royal pain in the a$$ when all it needs is the two shafts balanced and the cracked brackets replaced.......I have not even got into the engine and tranny issues yet......I said we need top get the PTO fixed right....not just a 50-100 hour fix! does anyone know how to get a hold of someone one at john deere that is higher up than a dealership.....I'm not trying to be a ****.....I just want this fixed right! I could write a book for john deeres R+D department......they still say I'm the only one with this issue......so I said find me one 1025r with a blower and 100 hours on it......just one.....I want to wiggle his shaft.....they cant find me one person! funny how that is!
 

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I would love to find another dealer......only problem is the company that owns the dealership that is 3 hours away owns the other one in the opposite direction 3 hours a way and the one even farther away.....I just got a call 5 mins ago from the dealership.....said its fixed....they put another shaft in it....I said its not fixed....we have done this and it only lasts 50 hours till I have to band aid it to get it to make it to 100 hours.....I told them to get some one from corporate john deere to get ahold of me.....this is getting to be a royal pain in the a$$ when all it needs is the two shafts balanced and the cracked brackets replaced.......I have not even got into the engine and tranny issues yet......I said we need top get the PTO fixed right....not just a 50-100 hour fix! does anyone know how to get a hold of someone one at john deere that is higher up than a dealership.....I'm not trying to be a dick.....I just want this fixed right! I could write a book for john deeres R+D department......they still say I'm the only one with this issue......so I said find me one 1025r with a blower and 100 hours on it......just one.....I want to wiggle his shaft.....they cant find me one person! funny how that is!
If they find you someone with a 1025R it's highly possible he won't take to kindly to you trying to wiggle his shaft.



I mean no offense to anyone with a 1025R and I mean no offense to the 1025R itself. I think the 1 series is flat out great and for the past month or so been debating between the 1 and 2 series to serve the needs I have that the cab of the 3520 is a pita for. You use your equipment commercially as do I. I have no doubts you maintain your equipment well, as much as this stuff costs most all of us takes care of our equipment. I have said many times I believe the 1 series to be the perfect homeowners tractor. I don't mean just the tractor itself, I also mean the equipment made for it. Is it possible your simply using the equipment in ways it wasn't designed for? I don't mean that to be a jerk, it's a honest question. I have purchased my fair share of equipment that allowed me to put the hours on it that it was designed for. Just so happened I racked up those hours in 2 years where as the average homeowner would have needed 20 years to do it. I'm not saying your rough with the equipment at all, just curious if it's the commercial use that's putting the hurt on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If they find you someone with a 1025R it's highly possible he won't take to kindly to you trying to wiggle his shaft.
LOL I figured that would come up.....I just want to see an honest 100 hr 1025 with a mid PTO shaft....I knowI'im NOT the only one with this issue since all I had to do is start reading (here).....I wish I was a complete idiot running some one else's 1025r with a blower......I wouldn't care if I was not paying the bill to have to buy a new PTO shaft every 100 hours......well I would get 200 hours and a lot more damage lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
If they find you someone with a 1025R it's highly possible he won't take to kindly to you trying to wiggle his shaft.

I mean no offense to anyone with a 1025R and I mean no offense to the 1025R itself. I think the 1 series is flat out great and for the past month or so been debating between the 1 and 2 series to serve the needs I have that the cab of the 3520 is a pia for. You use your equipment commercially as do I. I have no doubts you maintain your equipment well, as much as this stuff costs most all of us takes care of our equipment. I have said many times I believe the 1 series to be the perfect homeowners tractor. I don't mean just the tractor itself, I also mean the equipment made for it. Is it possible your simply using the equipment in ways it wasn't designed for? I don't mean that to be a jerk, it's a honest question. I have purchased my fair share of equipment that allowed me to put the hours on it that it was designed for. Just so happened I racked up those hours in 2 years where as the average homeowner would have needed 20 years to do it. I'm not saying your rough with the equipment at all, just curious if it's the commercial use that's putting the hurt on it.
I used the 425 and 455 for 6 years for the exact same work..... they are 25 years old........snow and grass....the 1025r I was told was 10 times the tractor and I needed 4x4 for the winter so I did not have to run tire chains on the fancy cement driveways.....the tractor itself is a great unit.....all units will have issues....but if the dealer would have listed to me right from the start, I would have saved them an engine at least......and this PTO shaft issue would have been fixed right the first year! if I could make my 455 into a 4x4 I would not have got the 1025r.....about 75% of my issues are dealer related......25% are just little issues! I would love if John Deere Corporate would call me! John Deere in this area is loosing a lot of business to the orange and red! but the local delership owns a crap load of dealerships......they should only get to own one locally....lol
 

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It sure sounds like you have a legitimate issue. I'm an ultra conservative and nearly all of the time have issues with the liberals policies. However, the few times I've ever had issues with new product failures or warranty issues, just the mention that I was going to be contacting the MN Attorney General's Office has, by itself, been enough to get action to my satisfaction.

I purchased a new 2007 Dodge Magnum SRT8 (hot rod). At 10,000 miles, all four of the tires are wearing unevenly on the outside edges. I bring it to the dealership for warranty repairs, they replace all four tires, and perform an alignment. At 25,000 miles, I noticed that all four tires are again wearing on the outside edge. I go back to the dealership for another warranty repair. They tell me I'll have to purchase the tires--citing I received 25,000 miles of wear. I say, no way. Any wear/use I received is little compensation for the inconvenience and downtime. The dealer stand fasts. I tell the service manger I'm not buying the tires and if they are not replaced under warranty, my next call will be to the MN AG. He says to bring the car by so they can look at it. After I deliver the car, the dealership phones and states they found a bad tie rod end and, as a result, will warranty replace the tires. I reply, well the tie rod end may explain the front tires, it doesn't the rear. What was really happening here was the dealership never corrected the problem on the first repair attempt. as Chrysler had paid them once to repair the problem and replace the tires, they weren't going to pay for the same repair twice. Thus, why the dealer was trying to dupe me into paying for the second set of tires. The alleged tire rod end failure was a means to initiate a new repair attempt. I doubt if the tie rod end had worn out at 25,000 miles.
 

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I'm sure that there are people on this very forum that have
a 1025r and 100 hours, or close to it, on their blower. If you would just calm down a little, they might be persuaded to check it.

There also may be someone on here that has a service manual which will plainly state whether the PTO shaft gets balanced upon replacement. If not, there are JD techs that frequent this forum who also may be able to provide this information.
 
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If poster uses language with the dealer as implied in the postings then the dealer may have choose to have selective hearing.
I'm a calm guy till I get lied or bull ****ted to......this is a on going 3 year problem.....they cant be to pi$$ed with me cause they do want me to trade in this unit to get another new one.....lol
 

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Gosh, maybe you got a lemon tractor? As for my dealer, these guys are awesome
here in Listowel Ont. Pricey, but hey, I get what I needed done, and they are awesome
for researching stuff for me and my crazy ideas.

I feel for ya mate. It is hard to fulfill contracts with equipment that is below standards.
:greentractorride:
 

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my dealer seems to be taking me more serious yesterday.....the place I was going to get John Deere to balance the shaft said they could do it last week but changed their mind yesterday and now can NOT do it.....he flat out told me after John Deere left "they do not want to get in the middle of a pissing match with me and John Deere......so I have my tractor home with 2 new (unbalanced) shafts......I'm going to blue print these 2 shafts on the tractor with a dial indicator and write down all the "slop" on every U-joint, cardan joint, spline, steady bearing and give John Deere a detailed blue print of the new shaft and do this every 10-20 hours as my work day allows.....I'm also going to do my own custom balance job in the tractor or find another shop that can balance it but so far can not find another shop with in 3 hours driving time......I told the dealership I'm try not to be an ass but I don't want to have to replace a drive shaft every 100 hours.....the way it sits right now I have to weld up and bracket and going to bolt in the steady bearing mount so everything is tight.....only reason it all hammers out is cause it out of balance....and Chinese bearings and u-joints are used to build these driveshafts.......
 

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my dealer seems to be taking me more serious yesterday.....the place I was going to get John Deere to balance the shaft said they could do it last week but changed their mind yesterday and now can NOT do it.....he flat out told me after John Deere left "they do not want to get in the middle of a pissing match with me and John Deere......so I have my tractor home with 2 new (unbalanced) shafts......I'm going to blue print these 2 shafts on the tractor with a dial indicator and write down all the "slop" on every U-joint, cardan joint, spline, steady bearing and give John Deere a detailed blue print of the new shaft and do this every 10-20 hours as my work day allows.....I'm also going to do my own custom balance job in the tractor or find another shop that can balance it but so far can not find another shop with in 3 hours driving time......I told the dealership I'm try not to be an ass but I don't want to have to replace a drive shaft every 100 hours.....the way it sits right now I have to weld up and bracket and going to bolt in the steady bearing mount so everything is tight.....only reason it all hammers out is cause it out of balance....and Chinese bearings and u-joints are used to build these driveshafts.......

The new drive shafts should not have "slop" in the U-joints, cardan joint, nor spline. If they do something is drastically wrong.
What do you have to weld up and bracket? Also not clear what you mean by "going to bolt in the steady bearing mount so everything is tight". (Maybe the dual hex bore bearings bolted to the carrier frame?)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The new drive shafts should not have "slop" in the U-joints, cardan joint, nor spline. If they do something is drastically wrong.
What do you have to weld up and bracket? Also not clear what you mean by "going to bolt in the steady bearing mount so everything is tight". (Maybe the dual hex bore bearings bolted to the carrier frame?)
well I spent 3 hours today measuring every single U-joint, cardan joint, spline and bearing for side to side and up and down movement with a dial indicator.....all u-joints are tight but there is movement in the bearing carrier so I bolted it to the bracket that holds the front mount of Drive over mower deck.....I will take some pics tomorrow and I have a drawing I will take a pic of for every measurement on every part of the driveshaft......there is movement from side to side and up and down from .030" to .080"....tube is .030 out of round and balance is out.......cause I marked the heavy side on one shaft and the heavy side of the other shaft and put them 180 deg apart and it spins smoother but still needs some fine tuning in the balancing.....really needs a computer balance done on these shafts.....

so after all this I went to my first job after getting my tractor back yesterday from the dealership.....noticed I thought I must have been bumping the down leaver with my leg or something cause blower was on the ground when I thought I lifted it up.....was using blade on the back......then I noticed the blower was falling completely down in less than 20 seconds from a full lift......worked perfect when I unloaded off the trailer at the dealership.......then I noticed they tightened the 3-point hitch leaver nut so tight I could not move the blade up and down.....I keep blowing out that friction washer every time they replace it cause it was to tight.....this time it was so tight and I could not move it.....well with one hand.....I had it set perfect so instead of having to put a new washer in after 3 or 4 days of using it, I have gone all year with out an issue.....so I phoned them up and asked why they would have tightened the nut on the 3-point hitch leaver......his exact words were "we did not touch it" with out even asking the Mechanic.....as for the blower dropping I figured they could not have screwed that up but just a "bad timing" thing but still had to ask........this dam tractor can not go one day with out an issue.....I really wish someone from John Deere (higher than the dealership) would contact me.....does any one know who to call? I'm pulling my hair out! when the tractor goes into get fixed and comes out with the same issues and MORE....WTF! but I have spent over 50 hours now on just dealing with this driveshaft issue......I think I need to send John Deere a bill......my hourly rate is $50 and hour when I work on clients toys and equipment......might be time to look for a lawyer soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I just did some math on why the drive shaft is wearing out so fast.......the mid PTO is 2100 (I think) and in a hour it spins126 000 times......shaft is wabbling at 50 hours which puts it at 6 300 000 times it goes around (6 Million 3 hundred thousand times) now in a 100 hours when it sounds like it hammering the tractor apart it spins 12 600 000 times so if it has any movement side to side or up and down it hammers it self more times than I can imagine......oh wait it hammers it self 12.6 million times.......how does John Deere figure these shafts dont have to be balanced.....wake up JD its not rocket science.....its simple drive shaft 101.....dealer told me it dont spin fast enough.....so I did the math for him.....my truck spins 2000 RPM on the engine driving down the highway at 100Km/hr.......I have a 20% overdrive in 4th gear (automatic) with torque converter locked up so my drive shaft is turning 1600 RPM......which is less than the PTO shaft on my 1025r......told the guy if you crawl under my truck you will see the balance weight on the front and the back of my driveshaft.....so a PTO shaft has to be balanced to run smoother and not Hammer it self out 12 million times in the amount I use it in less than one winter......just did a quick math problem.....lol
 

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going to remeasure the driveshaft after the next snow fall which is coming all this week so the weather man says......winter is not over.....lol I will post all measurements from new with a pic of my paper tomorrow and then re measure after 10 or 20 hours if I can find time......I know it will get sloppy with in 50 hours but going to see what happens after 10 to 20 hours......that 12 million times it turns really got me wondering now!
 

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Cutting Edge 13, I maybe putting gas on the fire but now that you have new PTO shafts I would clean that baby up and go see an orange or blue dealer and trade it. Yes, you may take a beating on what they will give you but all the grief you have gone through and I don't see any light at the end of the tunnel. My take is that it is time to move on. Just my 2 cents.


Doug
 
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That sounds like a good thought and I may be fanning the fire that gas just got poured on but if the tractor is that bad I believe I would invest in a good shovel and start scooping until I could come up with a "plan b" for equipment
 
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