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Discussion Starter #1
1025R Leaking
Several months ago I had hydraulic fluid leaking from the MMM PTO seal. Dealership thought they would have to pull the whole rear end out to fix leak and pull the seal from the inside. Thankfully, the mechanic I have is solid great guy and has mastered to fix every issue I have so far and is quick to respond. He was able to replace without having to pull the rear end out and was able to get to it from the outside and put a new seal in. No leak!
But..........
A few months after that got fixed I saw a big puddle of hydraulic fluid on the floor again and thought it was leaking from the MMM PTO again. So mechanic came back out to look and unfortunately the worst has happened. The rear casing is leaking. He stated he hates that these are just pressure fitted from factory with some sealant in between the casings and there is not a gasket like the bigger tractors have. He said, they do not even make a gasket for it so we can not put one in even if we wanted to. The bad news is he has to pull the whole rear end out. Everything from the steering wheel back is going to come off and its going to take at least a week to do. Thank God he talked me into buying the extended warranty and that is going to cover 100% of everything but............. I fear that its never going to be as solid as it was when coming from factory. He assured me it would be as good as new and maybe even better. When he has it all apart he said everything will get all new gaskets, hoses, fittings, etc. Whatever can be replace with new, will.
This 1025r of mine I bought brand new in 2013 I have almost 700hrs on it. He said, he wished he could have been my sales guy because he would have talked me into a 3 or 4 series tractor. I have a family member with a 4 and its to big for my needs. I only have a 4 acre property that I have converted all to sod. So lots of fun mowing time that I enjoy. But he highly is encouraging me that once this warranty is close to running out to get a 3 series. I think I'm going to take his advice.
Thoughts?
Is there anyone out here in the JD family that used to have a 1 series and now has upgraded to a 3 series? You glad you did? Are the rear attachments like the rear blade, tiller, spreader transferable to one tractor to the other? I know the FEL is not.
Any and all feedback is welcome. I'm just so nervous about having more issues now that this whole rear end is coming off.
 

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1025R Leaking
Several months ago I had hydraulic fluid leaking from the MMM PTO seal. Dealership thought they would have to pull the whole rear end out to fix leak and pull the seal from the inside. Thankfully, the mechanic I have is solid great guy and has mastered to fix every issue I have so far and is quick to respond. He was able to replace without having to pull the rear end out and was able to get to it from the outside and put a new seal in. No leak!
But..........
A few months after that got fixed I saw a big puddle of hydraulic fluid on the floor again and thought it was leaking from the MMM PTO again. So mechanic came back out to look and unfortunately the worst has happened. The rear casing is leaking. He stated he hates that these are just pressure fitted from factory with some sealant in between the casings and there is not a gasket like the bigger tractors have. He said, they do not even make a gasket for it so we can not put one in even if we wanted to. The bad news is he has to pull the whole rear end out. Everything from the steering wheel back is going to come off and its going to take at least a week to do. Thank God he talked me into buying the extended warranty and that is going to cover 100% of everything but............. I fear that its never going to be as solid as it was when coming from factory. He assured me it would be as good as new and maybe even better. When he has it all apart he said everything will get all new gaskets, hoses, fittings, etc. Whatever can be replace with new, will.
This 1025r of mine I bought brand new in 2013 I have almost 700hrs on it. He said, he wished he could have been my sales guy because he would have talked me into a 3 or 4 series tractor. I have a family member with a 4 and its to big for my needs. I only have a 4 acre property that I have converted all to sod. So lots of fun mowing time that I enjoy. But he highly is encouraging me that once this warranty is close to running out to get a 3 series. I think I'm going to take his advice.
Thoughts?
Is there anyone out here in the JD family that used to have a 1 series and now has upgraded to a 3 series? You glad you did? Are the rear attachments like the rear blade, tiller, spreader transferable to one tractor to the other? I know the FEL is not.
Any and all feedback is welcome. I'm just so nervous about having more issues now that this whole rear end is coming off.


To seal the housings you need to use this. This is what we use at Deere! Stuff is great. The big tractors don’t use gaskets between housing either we use this stuff. Little bit goes along way!! I have split many tractors and haven’t had a problem with this stuff failing. Where is it leaking at?



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To seal the housings you need to use this. This is what we use at Deere! Stuff is great. The big tractors don’t use gaskets between housing either we use this stuff. Little bit goes along way!! I have split many tractors and haven’t had a problem with this stuff failing. Where is it leaking at?
Looking at the parts breakdown I don't see any gaskets between the transmission housing and center sections on the 3E series but I do see gaskets between the center sections on the 3R series.

Having said that, the use of gaskets on the center case seems to be an odd reason to upgrade from a 1-series to a 3-series. It is unfortunate that the OPs tractor is having a leak but the same could just as easily happen when gaskets are used. There are thousands upon thousands of SCUT/CUT tractors out there which have been running leak free for many decades. There are also plenty of tractors that have had leaks of one type or another. No model is immune.

I know the OP is concerned about his tractor being taken apart but tractors get "split" for various repairs every day and if the mechanic is competent there is no reason the tractor would not be as good or better than when assembled new.

Now... if the OP wants to upgrade from a 1-series to a 4-series to get away from the aluminum housings and have something made of iron, that I would perfectly understand. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Its leaking from the main big housing that the mmm pto is housing meets up with the rest of the rear end. From rear tire to tire. If I could find a diagram of the rear I could maybe be more specific or have correct terminology but can not seem to find one. The dealer used some stuff like this around the whole thing but must have found a pin size hole that its leaking from. Either way he said its better to get this sealant between these two main components like from factory rather than just spreading it on the outside to stop the leak because if it wears off its just going to start leaking again.





To seal the housings you need to use this. This is what we use at Deere! Stuff is great. The big tractors don’t use gaskets between housing either we use this stuff. Little bit goes along way!! I have split many tractors and haven’t had a problem with this stuff failing. Where is it leaking at?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Its leaking from the main big housing that the mmm pto is housing meets up with the rest of the rear end. From rear tire to tire. If I could find a diagram of the rear I could maybe be more specific or have correct terminology but can not seem to find one. The dealer used some stuff like this around the whole thing but must have found a pin size hole that its leaking from. Either way he said its better to get this sealant between these two main components like from factory rather than just spreading it on the outside to stop the leak because if it wears off its just going to start leaking again.
Yes it’s best to split and clean surface and apply this to fix the issue



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Its leaking from the main big housing that the mmm pto is housing meets up with the rest of the rear end. From rear tire to tire. If I could find a diagram of the rear I could maybe be more specific or have correct terminology but can not seem to find one. The dealer used some stuff like this around the whole thing but must have found a pin size hole that its leaking from. Either way he said its better to get this sealant between these two main components like from factory rather than just spreading it on the outside to stop the leak because if it wears off its just going to start leaking again.
Does this diagram help?

1025R_center.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I guess one of my reasons for upgrading would be that a larger tractor could take more abuse. I do a lot of mowing and really like the mmm setup and I do lots of tilling and dragging with a harrow with my tractor for grading purposes. Have a larger tractor for tilling and harrowing I think would probably be a smart decision. This would allow me to disc rather than till and I would like the tractor to have the ability to have the lifting power to pickup a drill seeder. The small 1 series doesn't have the power to disc. I got some time but start to research now and see what others thoughts are about it. Curious to hear what people have to say about their 3 series. If I was to upgrade I'm thinking of the 3039r or the 3046r.

Looking at the parts breakdown I don't see any gaskets between the transmission housing and center sections on the 3E series but I do see gaskets between the center sections on the 3R series.

Having said that, the use of gaskets on the center case seems to be an odd reason to upgrade from a 1-series to a 3-series. It is unfortunate that the OPs tractor is having a leak but the same could just as easily happen when gaskets are used. There are thousands upon thousands of SCUT/CUT tractors out there which have been running leak free for many decades. There are also plenty of tractors that have had leaks of one type or another. No model is immune.

I know the OP is concerned about his tractor being taken apart but tractors get "split" for various repairs every day and if the mechanic is competent there is no reason the tractor would not be as good or better than when assembled new.

Now... if the OP wants to upgrade from a 1-series to a 4-series to get away from the aluminum housings and have something made of iron, that I would perfectly understand. :)
 

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I guess one of my reasons for upgrading would be that a larger tractor could take more abuse. I do a lot of mowing and really like the mmm setup and I do lots of tilling and dragging with a harrow with my tractor for grading purposes. Have a larger tractor for tilling and harrowing I think would probably be a smart decision. This would allow me to disc rather than till and I would like the tractor to have the ability to have the lifting power to pickup a drill seeder. The small 1 series doesn't have the power to disc. I got some time but start to research now and see what others thoughts are about it. Curious to hear what people have to say about their 3 series. If I was to upgrade I'm thinking of the 3039r or the 3046r.
What size disc are you thinking? I think you would be disappointed in just the disc compared to a tiller. The bigger 3 series would handle a 5 feet tiller. That would be about all the disc (5 feet) you could pull also. In sod a small disc will not do much. I kind of think the 4 series might be the way to go. More grunt and iron instead of aluminum. But $$ is also a factor.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Haven't decided size of disc yet. But I know the 4 series is to large for a lot of the acreages I take care of along with mine. Relatives of mine have a 4 series so I do have experience with that and its to big and not maneuverable for my liking. But my current 1 series doesn't have enough power either but is very maneuverable. Drill seeder to meet is the most important attachment I would like my tractor to be able to handle.


What size disc are you thinking? I think you would be disappointed in just the disc compared to a tiller. The bigger 3 series would handle a 5 feet tiller. That would be about all the disc (5 feet) you could pull also. In sod a small disc will not do much. I kind of think the 4 series might be the way to go. More grunt and iron instead of aluminum. But $$ is also a factor.
 

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A 3 series is not an upgrade to a 1 series, anymore than a box truck is an upgrade to a pickup truck. They are two different things for different purposes.

A 1 series is a special tractor, in that it is the one tractor you can buy to do everything you need if you must have only one machine. Some people with flat, featureless land can get away with a larger tractor for everything, and if that's you, and if you want one, by all means go for it! Why not, right?

But if you need the small size and maneuverability of a 1 series (which is really the main reason to buy one), then a 3 series would be a disaster. If not, then it's just a matter of what makes you happy. No tractor is immune from problems. There are tons of 1 series owners with thousands of hours on their tractors whose transmissions don't leak. And some 3 series owners whose transmissions do leak. If "I never want to have problems" is your reason for getting a new machine, I don't think it's the best move. But if you just want it and are looking for a reason...yes! A 3 series is the ticket.
 

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Haven't decided size of disc yet. But I know the 4 series is to large for a lot of the acreages I take care of along with mine. Relatives of mine have a 4 series so I do have experience with that and its to big and not maneuverable for my liking. But my current 1 series doesn't have enough power either but is very maneuverable. Drill seeder to meet is the most important attachment I would like my tractor to be able to handle.
Yeah maneuverability is a huge selling point for the 1 series. I would have gotten bigger also if it weren't for that. I have a 10 ft disc I use with an 85 hp 9000 lb FWA tractor. In grass it takes 4-5 passes to break the ground. With a tiller it takes one pass. A smaller tractor and disc are a challenge in my opinion.
 

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700 hours is a lot in a short amount of time for a non-commercial use tractor. Just an observation. I split my SCUT (2210) and the dealer split it as well and it went back together without any issues. It is a major task so it takes time to complete. I got rid of mine when it hit 1000 hours but it was also 14 years old too and was beginning to have issues so...yours is much newer. You may be right to consider moving on after the warranty since you put a lot of hours on a tractor.

Have you looked at the new 2R series? They are almost as big a 3R series but seem to have a lot the qualities of the 3R and 1 series. I have read nothing but positive things so far on the new ones.

I have a 3E series and you are not mowing with it unless you have a 3 pt mounted mower. Another option to consider is going with a ZTR and then having a tractor that just does the ground engaging tasks you need to do? In some respects it might be a cheaper solution since MMM can be an expensive option for the bigger series tractors.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah I put a lot of hours on very quickly. About 3.5 years ago my wife and I bought a 4 acre property to build our home on. Since I have graded, seeded and in the process of landscaping the entire property on my own. While doing that I have used the tractor to do 2 more 4 acre properties for friends and family and have a request in from another friend to do another 3 acre property in the spring. I love being on my tractor and doing this kind of work so I'm thinking of making it a business and keeping rolling with it. Maybe I can quit my daytime job eventually.
Yes I have looked at the 2 series but my mechanic at John Deere said to not waste my time or money with one of those. They can't do anymore than the 1 series. He says if you want something a little bigger that can take the abuse that I'm using the tractor for he says at least a 3 series or 4. I mentioned my dislikes of the 4 being I'm mainly working on smaller acreages. With that being said he said he can't say enough good things about the 3r series.
I have looked into and had them give me a quote on a ztr but is it dumb to say that I just love being on the tractor and would rather use that for mowing. I like the job the mmm does and just like having 1 machine and 1 engine to maintain.
Thanks for all the feedback. I'm enjoying the conversations and input. You all are making me think!


700 hours is a lot in a short amount of time for a non-commercial use tractor. Just an observation. I split my SCUT (2210) and the dealer split it as well and it went back together without any issues. It is a major task so it takes time to complete. I got rid of mine when it hit 1000 hours but it was also 14 years old too and was beginning to have issues so...yours is much newer. You may be right to consider moving on after the warranty since you put a lot of hours on a tractor.

Have you looked at the new 2R series? They are almost as big a 3R series but seem to have a lot the qualities of the 3R and 1 series. I have read nothing but positive things so far on the new ones.

I have a 3E series and you are not mowing with it unless you have a 3 pt mounted mower. Another option to consider is going with a ZTR and then having a tractor that just does the ground engaging tasks you need to do? In some respects it might be a cheaper solution since MMM can be an expensive option for the bigger series tractors.
 

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I guess one of my reasons for upgrading would be that a larger tractor could take more abuse. I do a lot of mowing and really like the mmm setup and I do lots of tilling and dragging with a harrow with my tractor for grading purposes. Have a larger tractor for tilling and harrowing I think would probably be a smart decision. This would allow me to disc rather than till and I would like the tractor to have the ability to have the lifting power to pickup a drill seeder. The small 1 series doesn't have the power to disc. I got some time but start to research now and see what others thoughts are about it. Curious to hear what people have to say about their 3 series. If I was to upgrade I'm thinking of the 3039r or the 3046r.
Who ever told you that? What kind of disc'n are you talking about? I have a disc and use it on my garden. My neighbor that didn't know how to plow plowed my garden and left me clumps of ground over 2' high in spots and the whole garden was a clumpy mess. I disc-ed it smooth and level.

My setup...
IMG_0386.jpg

Works just fine for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Levi I like the setup.
Bluffman I appreciate the advice.

Well I guess ill see how this 1 series does for me till the warranty runs out and I guess go with my gut. Lots of different opinions and options out there.
Thank you everyone!
 
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