Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Dont mean to beat this dead horse just sharing my experience

After finally getting the right ones ordered from Amazon for $16.69 which I thought was a good price and they are PRIME delivery

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJMN5FK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are bright white , here is a comparison pic during day

1.jpg

Here is a shot of them at night

2.jpg

Here is the bulb package

3.jpg

Very happy with purchase, lets see how long they last...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Talking about dead horses

Dont mean to beat this dead horse just sharing my experience

After finally getting the right ones ordered from Amazon for $16.69 which I thought was a good price and they are PRIME delivery

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJMN5FK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are bright white , here is a comparison pic during day

View attachment 654948

Here is a shot of them at night

View attachment 654950

Here is the bulb package

View attachment 654952

Very happy with purchase, lets see how long they last...
I ordered the LEDs off Amazon that every one was raving about on a pervious thread. I changed them all out and they did look cool but I was not convinced I could see any better. I put one of the old bulbs in and compare it the led next to it on the side of the building about 30 feet away. There was no comparison the old orginal bull was way brighter. I took out all the LEDs and sent them back to Amazon. And yes! I ordered the ones what everyone recommended and even tried another highly recommend brand and there is no way in hell the LEDs could compeat with the factory bulbs. I can't believe there are this many doing this. It just doesn't have the throw or the power the old bulbs have. I guess I must be color blind or crazy not to see what everyone else is seeing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I ordered the LEDs off Amazon that every one was raving about on a pervious thread. I changed them all out and they did look cool but I was not convinced I could see any better. I put one of the old bulbs in and compare it the led next to it on the side of the building about 30 feet away. There was no comparison the old orginal bull was way brighter. I took out all the LEDs and sent them back to Amazon. And yes! I ordered the ones what everyone recommended and even tried another highly recommend brand and there is no way in hell the LEDs could compeat with the factory bulbs. I can't believe there are this many doing this. It just doesn't have the throw or the power the old bulbs have. I guess I must be color blind or crazy not to see what everyone else is seeing.
To be honest with you the headlights at night are almost useless unless bucket is below or up, almost all of my light comes
from the added led light kit. Lights on fenders and on brush guards above the blinkers. They are amazing at how much they light up.
With that being said my primary reason was to match color of those lights and it was such a low cost mod that can be reversed easily
I figured why not. I will also add LEDs are not for everyone, when I was purchasing a RV a few years ago one RV I looked at had led
lighting inside and it made my eyes hurt but LEDs have come a ways over the past few years.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,721 Posts
I ordered the LEDs off Amazon that every one was raving about on a pervious thread. I changed them all out and they did look cool but I was not convinced I could see any better. I put one of the old bulbs in and compare it the led next to it on the side of the building about 30 feet away. There was no comparison the old orginal bull was way brighter. I took out all the LEDs and sent them back to Amazon. And yes! I ordered the ones what everyone recommended and even tried another highly recommend brand and there is no way in hell the LEDs could compeat with the factory bulbs. I can't believe there are this many doing this. It just doesn't have the throw or the power the old bulbs have. I guess I must be color blind or crazy not to see what everyone else is seeing.
This is exactly what a lot of folks have been saying. When you put an LED bulb into a reflector designed for a halogen bulb the results can be disappointing. I went through the same thing when trying to replace the halogen bulb in my ROPS worklights with a LED bulb.

When looking at the lights with your eye the LED bulb looked whiter and brighter. However, when using the tractor after dark the light from the LED bulb just wasn't making it to the ground as well as the halogen bulb. Like you, I went back to the halogen bulb until such time that I replaced the halogen worklights with real LED worklights.

Below is what my worklights looked like with one halogen and one LED bulb. As you can see, the LED bulb on the right is brighter and whiter but it provided far less illumination on the ground.

 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,922 Posts
My Tractor has 2-LED Lights with 6 LEDs aimed both ways off the roll bar. I went with these because I used 2- 4 LED Fixtures for back up lights on my Power wagon and mounted them low under the truck. Mine have been left on for 2 years now (300 hours so far)and still work great! There brighter then the Power Wagon ones and were cheap in cost. LED Lights.jpg LED Lights1.jpg 100_0193.jpg I like the even light they put out and when mounted high they light up way more and during the evening hours it helps to be seen. For $16.00 a pair including shipping you can't lose!https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-4-INCH-36W-LED-WORK-LIGHT-BAR-FLOOD-OFFROAD-ATV-FOG-TRUCK-LAMP-4WD-12V-6/283095669035?epid=27007085897&hash=item41e9d1192b:g:Vo0AAOSwtE9bdQk-:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!98840!US!-1:rk:23:pf:0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,587 Posts
I noticed on my search for led lights it can be tricky because the Holocene lights are a certain size and put out light at certain spots onto the reflectors that then output the light.
You will need to do your best to get an led light with the most light output. Can’t just go off of lumens. You need to also look T the watts. They trick you. Also it needs to be as close as possible to the same measurements as the stock bulb and out put the light needed into the same spots on the reflector.
I also found the led didn’t really get brighter. Just whiter which I personally like. And less draw on the alternator

Easiest thing to do in my opinion is buy
2-4 Led fog lights(not spot) Amazon $20-$50. Need 3 for how I set min up. 2 facing forward & 1 facing the rear.
Wire and plug from tractor supply $5-20
Heavy duty 2” round neodymium magnet with 90-200 pound of pulling force $30 for 3

I put mine on the strong magnets where I can easily move them. With the ROPS down they go one way and then when I put the ROPS up I just simply move them. It takes less than an hour to install and you hook straight up to factory with the plugs without cutting anything.
I’ll update this later with some links & pictures later if Anyone wants. Bad service where I’m at now and photons won’t load.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
2 years ago, I bought these on eBay.

They weren't long enough for the rear facing led to reflect in the housing.

I cut the stock halogen flush to the bulb to have the stock plug with wire leads. Then I dissected the led's plug to get access to the leads without destroying the resistor inside the plastic. Tricky but once you had one done you know where to cut. I used a metal saw. More cutting, straightening the leads, welded them together and I sealed and strengthened them with hot glue. Led do not heat enough to melt it.

Now they protrude past the reflector and the back LEDs do their job. It makes a BIG difference.

I compared with my stock halogen , one stock and one led on each side in a pitch black winter night showed that they were somewhat equivalent but the whiter light of the LEDs shine way better. My 2 cents. And they draw less, doesn't heat, and they last longer.

I do this with 5 bulb, headlights, fender's lights and the back working lamp. My "Frankensteins" still lights strong!



Leds all the way!



2015 1025r, FEL, SB1154, 54D.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Here's my thing: I have a 2020 Model Year 1023e & have already installed Signal Guards around the ROPS Lights, added Front & Rear-facing LED Work Lights (using the Factory Wiring) and the Headlights are Yellow. I want to change them to the Same 6500K White Light of the work lights. Looking at the Factory Headlamp Bulbs, they are Halogen H4/9003, which is a Dual Filament (Hi-Beam/Low-Beam) bulb and the Deere doesn't have a Hi/Low Selector Switch like a Car. Also, inspecting the Headlamp wiring from John Deere, it's a 3-wire plug with only 2 Wires installed, meaning only half of lamp is being used. Installing an H4/9003 LED Capsule in place of a Halogen will only light-up One Side (low beam) of the LED.
The LED Offerings for H1, H7, 9005 & 9006 are all Single Filament Replacements. I would like to install a pair of LED H7 Bulbs but need H4 Bases to fit the Factory Housings. The Wiring-Plug can be Adjusted/disassembled/adapted to fit the H7 Connection.

Any Help?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I ordered a pair of H4/9003-ATO from Amazon for my new 1025R which will be here next week. Dealer is installing the premium LED light kit and wanted headlights to match. I don’t think these will require mod on the dust cover, but can’t confirm yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I ordered a pair of H4/9003-ATO from Amazon for my new 1025R which will be here next week. Dealer is installing the premium LED light kit and wanted headlights to match. I don’t think these will require mod on the dust cover, but can’t confirm yet.
I hope they work out for you, since they will only be wired to light-up One Side of the LED's, unless your Dealer rewires the plug for all three terminals on the H4. (This is why I made the post... our Deere SCUT's are only wired for Low-Beam on the factory Halogens & they may be dimmer whiter light with the LED's)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
I hope they work out for you, since they will only be wired to light-up One Side of the LED's, unless your Dealer rewires the plug for all three terminals on the H4. (This is why I made the post... our Deere SCUT's are only wired for Low-Beam on the factory Halogens & they may be dimmer whiter light with the LED's)
.
You can move the pin of the JD connector from the low beam spade to the high beam spade of the bulb. I suppose you could jumper wire to both low and high side, but that might generate a lot of heat and shorten the life of the LED bulb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
.
You can move the pin of the JD connector from the low beam spade to the high beam spade of the bulb. I suppose you could jumper wire to both low and high side, but that might generate a lot of heat and shorten the life of the LED bulb.
Correct, constantly running both circuits at once would reduce the H4 Lifetime, because it isn't designed to operate that way. If I figure out a Single Filament Adaptation (H1 or H7, in place of the H4) I will post my results here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
The H4 bulb isn't necessarily the weak link. The reflector and the bulb form a unit. they are designed for each other and the bulb needs to be in a very precise positing (more specifically, the bulb's filament needs to be in a very specific position) so it can light up the reflector correctly, giving the best/most light output. In that respect, a H4 reflector is a bit of a compromise since it needs to provide a high beam and low beam pattern with the same reflector. The 2 filaments of the bulb sit at different positions and their light output hit the reflector at different angles, the low beam filament also has a shield, blocking any light from shining onto the bottom part of the reflector. Anyway, if you swap the H4 with a single-filament H1 or H7 then you still need to decide where inside the reflector you want to position the filament, in the high beam or low beam position. there is no bulb out there - to my knowledge - that has a log enough filament to cover both the high and low beam position. So long story short, even with a single filament bulb, you can expect to get what the current H4 bulb does in its low or high beam position.
It is relatively easy (and cheap) to add a high beam option so the headlight becomes switchable between high and low, just like in a car.
I feel a little bad tooting my own horn here and post a link to my video in now the 2nd post i have written in this forum. But I completed this high beam activation conversion, perhaps it can help giving you some decent lights, too., and without any irreversible changes to the tractor.
regards, frank

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
The H4 bulb isn't necessarily the weak link. The reflector and the bulb form a unit. they are designed for each other and the bulb needs to be in a very precise positing (more specifically, the bulb's filament needs to be in a very specific position) so it can light up the reflector correctly, giving the best/most light output. In that respect, a H4 reflector is a bit of a compromise since it needs to provide a high beam and low beam pattern with the same reflector. The 2 filaments of the bulb sit at different positions and their light output hit the reflector at different angles, the low beam filament also has a shield, blocking any light from shining onto the bottom part of the reflector. Anyway, if you swap the H4 with a single-filament H1 or H7 then you still need to decide where inside the reflector you want to position the filament, in the high beam or low beam position. there is no bulb out there - to my knowledge - that has a log enough filament to cover both the high and low beam position. So long story short, even with a single filament bulb, you can expect to get what the current H4 bulb does in its low or high beam position.
It is relatively easy (and cheap) to add a high beam option so the headlight becomes switchable between high and low, just like in a car.
I feel a little bad tooting my own horn here and post a link to my video in now the 2nd post i have written in this forum. But I completed this high beam activation conversion, perhaps it can help giving you some decent lights, too., and without any irreversible changes to the tractor.
regards, frank

Well Done! You addressed my mail dilemma, regarding the John Deere SCUT Models. When I first received my 1023e & began getting familiar with it, I was surprised Deere would use Hella Brand H4 Lamp Housings, yet only offer a Single Power-tap to the Dual Filament Bulbs. Thus, I was trying to figure a work-around. I studied the operation of all the H4/9003 LED Capsules offered on the market & noticed High Beam & Low Beam LED's were arranged on opposite sides of the Circuit-Board of each capsule, making equal lighting output impossible with a single power-wire.

In your video, I wish you had shown more detail as to where the Male 3-prong attached, behind the Steering Column Panel, near the fuse block.

Because these Series 1 SCUT's are mainly used for work on Personal property, I may just remove the Hella Housings & replace them with the 6.5-inch x 3-inch CREE Off-road, Flood Lights in the Finned Housings for the Lighting Coverage I require in the evenings or at night.
743858


Thank you for the insight & your technical expertise!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
In your video, I wish you had shown more detail as to where the Male 3-prong attached, behind the Steering Column Panel, near the fuse block....
oh, sorry if that wasn't clear. the new male 3-prong plug doesn't go to the cockpit area. it is plugged into one of the female plugs that previously connected to the headlights. So the new harness stays completely inside the font of the engine bay, behind the headlights except for 2 wires that run to the cockpit and to the new headlight switch. nothing splices into any of the existing cables under the dash or fuse block.

regards

frank
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
oh, sorry if that wasn't clear. the new male 3-prong plug doesn't go to the cockpit area. it is plugged into one of the female plugs that previously connected to the headlights. So the new harness stays completely inside the font of the engine bay, behind the headlights except for 2 wires that run to the cockpit and to the new headlight switch. nothing splices into any of the existing cables under the dash or fuse block.

regards

frank
Hello Frank, I have watched the video you shared & I believe I'm moving forward, slowly.

First Question: What do you do with the Second Female Plug which is no longer being used, because of the new harness?

Question 2: Can you detail the wire position on the relay & type of relay you used, please? (I'm familiar with Automotive Lighting relays, which have: Ground/Power-In/Switch-Power & Two Power-Out Terminals to the lamps. Perhaps I'm being dense, but I can't grasp how you are switching power inside the relay, as a Relay is either "On" (when power is applied) or "Off" (when power is disconnected).)

I'm sorry if I'm being a problem, but I could really use your help.

Doyle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
hi Doyle,

happy to help.

#1: Correct. one of the 2 female connectors (the original from the right headlight) is now unused. I just zip-tied it to its own cable so it doesn't dangle around too much. But it still is a fully functional connector that gets 12V power when the headlights are turned on. So it can be used to easily connect an AUX light. But for now, it does nothing.

#2: Yes, I'm using a standard automotive 5pin relay. 85 and 86 is the relay coil. Apply 12V and the relay switches. 30 is the common 'input', the 12Volts from the light switch (what previously went to the low beam side of the headlights) is what connects here. 87a and 87 are the 2 outputs. More specifically, 87a is what's called 'normally closed' so there is a direct connection between 30 and 87a when then relay is NOT engaged. 87a is where the low beams connect to. without any power to the coil side of the relay, the low beams are connected to the 12V input side. 87 is what gets switched to 30 when the relay is on. the high beams connect to 87. Basically the relay switches 30 between 87a (no power to the relay) and 87 (power to the relay). Here is a screenshot from my video with the relay pins labeled.



regards

frank
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
hi Doyle,

happy to help.

#1: Correct. one of the 2 female connectors (the original from the right headlight) is now unused. I just zip-tied it to its own cable so it doesn't dangle around too much. But it still is a fully functional connector that gets 12V power when the headlights are turned on. So it can be used to easily connect an AUX light. But for now, it does nothing.

#2: Yes, I'm using a standard automotive 5pin relay. 85 and 86 is the relay coil. Apply 12V and the relay switches. 30 is the common 'input', the 12Volts from the light switch (what previously went to the low beam side of the headlights) is what connects here. 87a and 87 are the 2 outputs. More specifically, 87a is what's called 'normally closed' so there is a direct connection between 30 and 87a when then relay is NOT engaged. 87a is where the low beams connect to. without any power to the coil side of the relay, the low beams are connected to the 12V input side. 87 is what gets switched to 30 when the relay is on. the high beams connect to 87. Basically the relay switches 30 between 87a (no power to the relay) and 87 (power to the relay). Here is a screenshot from my video with the relay pins labeled.



regards

frank
Frank,

Thank you so much for explaining this to me & providing the Numbered Diagram for the relay! Now it makes sense & I can put this together; you have been very helpful!

Doyle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
hi Doyle,

happy to help.

#1: Correct. one of the 2 female connectors (the original from the right headlight) is now unused. I just zip-tied it to its own cable so it doesn't dangle around too much. But it still is a fully functional connector that gets 12V power when the headlights are turned on. So it can be used to easily connect an AUX light. But for now, it does nothing.

#2: Yes, I'm using a standard automotive 5pin relay. 85 and 86 is the relay coil. Apply 12V and the relay switches. 30 is the common 'input', the 12Volts from the light switch (what previously went to the low beam side of the headlights) is what connects here. 87a and 87 are the 2 outputs. More specifically, 87a is what's called 'normally closed' so there is a direct connection between 30 and 87a when then relay is NOT engaged. 87a is where the low beams connect to. without any power to the coil side of the relay, the low beams are connected to the 12V input side. 87 is what gets switched to 30 when the relay is on. the high beams connect to 87. Basically the relay switches 30 between 87a (no power to the relay) and 87 (power to the relay). Here is a screenshot from my video with the relay pins labeled.



regards

frank
Hello Frank!

Mission Accomplished, with your guidance, thank you! My 1023e now sports LED H4 Headlamps with High/Low Beam Operation activated through a Factory John Deere Gator Headlamp Switch!

Your Diagram was a great help, again, Thank you so much!

Doyle.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top