Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 20 of 81 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi good people of GTT.

I am getting closer to installing my LED Light Bar on the *underside* of my ROPS.... and two (2) small LED lights to my blinker guards for a 'REAR LIGHT' source.

I bought the following 'switches' and 'Switch bezels' and know where I would like to locate them, but want to see what you all thought.

My concern with the location shown in the attached photos is:

  • I have to install my Light Guards first...any concerns or tricks there in regards to wiring, etc?
  • Has anyone ever removed the black plastic console cover that the fender light is mounted to before? I assume it is hollow space beneath it? How is this removed - just the one screw on the top?
  • Can I thread the wires, wrapped in a split wire loom plastic protector, into the empty area beneath this control console cover to the 'seat side' of the OEM Fender Light?
  • Is there any concern about 'water exposure' in this area?
  • Any concerns I am not thinking of?
20161206_154459.jpg

Switches I want to use:

20161206_154240.jpg
20161206_154248.jpg
20161206_154226.jpg

This is where I want to locate the Switch Housing/bezel and the Switches:

20161206_153850.jpg

Light Switches just *taped* into place to show where I want to put them.
20161206_154153.jpg

Also, I am having a helluva time getting a definitive answer from SuperBrightLEDs.com on this question... which I posed as a result of watching the following video as the switch is demonstrated after the wiring in the YouTube video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFsZgl4fw-U

*QUESTION/CONCERN: I want to install this particular switch on a John Deere Sub-Compact One Family Tracor..... the 1025R, which is a compact 4X4 3 cyl 24hp diesel with a 12 volt battery. I notice that when you have the 2nd light wired up, the switch stays 'lit' in the 'off' position. This concerns me.... will it drain the battery? Is there a way to wire the switch so that when the tractor is not 'running' there is no light, lit up???

Do any of you wiring GTT guru's have a way to wire the switch so that it only lights (on or off) when the tractor is running and the key is in the 'on' position???

SuperBrightLEDs.com shows this diagram with the listed part online:

John Deere LED Light Switch Guide.jpg

Thanks everyone! :bigthumb:
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,287 Posts
Joe, we are not blind :laugh:

You asked:
will it drain the battery?
If the light on the switch is on, the yes it will drain the battery eventually.

Is there a way to wire the switch so that when the tractor is not 'running' there is no light, lit up???
You will have to create a new circuit through a 30 amp relay to feed the "battery" side of the switch, then trigger the relay from something in the fusebox that is only "hot" when the key is on.

The wiring diagram you posted from SBL is correct-I couldn't watch that video all the way through. If you wired both switches identical-then there is no reason why the first indicator light would be on, can you post a diagram of how you have everything wired?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Joe, we are not blind :laugh:

You asked:

If the light on the switch is on, the yes it will drain the battery eventually.


You will have to create a new circuit through a 30 amp relay to feed the "battery" side of the switch, then trigger the relay from something in the fusebox that is only "hot" when the key is on.

The wiring diagram you posted from SBL is correct-I couldn't watch that video all the way through. If you wired both switches identical-then there is no reason why the first indicator light would be on, can you post a diagram of how you have everything wired?
Hi Kenny - thank you for your response. I was *just* thinking about you today as I was looking my tractor over and glanced at my bucket..... reminded me I want to get one or more of your 'bolt on hooks'.... and I need to get a spring replacement for my seat too...

Anyway - I haven't wired anything yet.... was posting this to get some 'pre-surgery' advice on how to do so....

The guy in the video wired up the last switch like the SBL diagram I posted... the 'Lights On' part of the indicator glowed when he had the switch to the *on* position.... and then when he flipped it to the *off* position, the 'off' bar of the switch glowed.... which is fine - if the tractor was running.... but he had it wired directly to a battery on his bench.... so not sure if that means it would also stay lit when the switch is off on the JD tractor or not??
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,287 Posts
OK, I watched just the end...

So the question for you is: Do you want/need the lightbar powered when the key is OFF?
If no, then you need to create a new circuit as I mentioned before. If yes, then we need to wire the switch a bit differently.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
OK, I watched just the end...

So the question for you is: Do you want/need the lightbar powered when the key is OFF?
If no, then you need to create a new circuit as I mentioned before. If yes, then we need to wire the switch a bit differently.
No... I would prefer that the switch is *NOT* powered *on* when the key is turned off.... don't want it lit up indefinitely....

But, I don't really know how to create a 'new circuit'.... is that something you or someone could easily diagram? Thanks!! Appreciate the help.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,287 Posts
Here is a great informational thread on relays: http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/tractor-equipment-maintenance/87241-information-relay-switches.html


Here is two simple schematics to look at-they are the same but different:

relay.jpg



relay-2.jpg



There are some great older threads on adding lights and relays that you can Google search for (upper right is the search box), I suggest not focusing so much on the "lightbar" term or "1025" though since those are relatively new to the market, these principles apply to all electrical circuits.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Ok... I think I have this figured out.... just need to find a fuse on the fuse block that is on/off with the key.

Will this relay be ok?

Dorman Conduct-Tite 88069 - Relay | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Also.... is there a reason why the 'in-line' fuse is between the battery and relay...?? and not between the fused fuse box and the lights? Isn't the Relay connection just a 'passthrough?'
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
592 Posts
QUESTION/CONCERN: I want to install this particular switch on a John Deere Sub-Compact One Family Tracor..... the 1025R, which is a compact 4X4 3 cyl 24hp diesel with a 12 volt battery. I notice that when you have the 2nd light wired up, the switch stays 'lit' in the 'off' position. This concerns me.... will it drain the battery? Is there a way to wire the switch so that when the tractor is not 'running' there is no light, lit?




Just don't hook up the ground wire on the switch, as it is not needed for the led work lights. But, if you wanted the switch lit up while the key is on, this way will not work.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,043 Posts
[*]Has anyone ever removed the black plastic console cover that the fender light is mounted to before? I assume it is hollow space beneath it? How is this removed - just the one screw on the top?
:
I think the "black plastic console" you are talking about is actually the fuel tank. There may be an empty space where you plan to put the switches, but just be aware you will have to deal with the fuel tank.

Keane
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,287 Posts
Ok... I think I have this figured out.... just need to find a fuse on the fuse block that is on/off with the key.

Will this relay be ok?

Dorman Conduct-Tite 88069 - Relay | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Also.... is there a reason why the 'in-line' fuse is between the battery and relay...?? and not between the fused fuse box and the lights? Isn't the Relay connection just a 'passthrough?'

Yes that relay is fine, it's just a standard "Bosch" style or "ice cube" relay.

The fuse (or CB) near the battery protects the entire new lighting/accessory circuit and all the associated wiring. The switched feed to the relay is already fused from whatever position you tap but there would be nothing to protect this new circuit your creating unless you add it. The relay is not just a "pass thru" device but rather a high current switch that is operated electrically and not manually.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
Here is a great informational thread on relays: http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/tractor-equipment-maintenance/87241-information-relay-switches.html


Here is two simple schematics to look at-they are the same but different:

View attachment 276825



View attachment 276833



There are some great older threads on adding lights and relays that you can Google search for (upper right is the search box), I suggest not focusing so much on the "lightbar" term or "1025" though since those are relatively new to the market, these principles apply to all electrical circuits.
Ah, I didn't see that share when browsing on my phone. Wire it just like in Kenny's pictures using that 072H Ignition wire to feed your switch and you'll be right where you want to be. I would also add a fuse coming off the 072H wire. That fuse can be very small. You will be drawing less than 200 ma from that circuit (0.2 amps). So you can go with a 1 or 3 amp fuse there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Ok... do I have this right?

Ok... bear with me here... I know squat about this stuff, but am trying to learn and absorb. My brother is also good at wiring and has given me similar advice to what I am getting here....

So...

I purchased 14 awg wire, and have several 'in-line' fuse holders/15 amp fuses with 14 awg leads.

My Overhead, foreward facing LED Lightbar, attached to the underside of my ROPS will be a 72 watt unit.

I will have 2, small 18 watt cube sized LED lights which will be mounted to my blinker/tail light 'Brushguards.'

If I am reading all this info correctly.... starting at the batter:

  • positive/negative wires from battery, intersected before Ignition switched fuseholder on fuse block by a 15 amp in-line fuse.
  • wires running from in-line fuse to the 'ignition switched' fuse holder on fuse box as indicated in posts... attached with 'blade' connectors.
  • 15 amp fuse in ignition switched fuse holder on fuse block
  • positive/neg wires from ignition switched fuse holder on fuse block going to Relay
  • Relay wired as indicated in Kenny's post
  • In line 15 amp fuse with 14 awg leads spliced in-between the ignition switched fuse on fuse block, and the switches for both Overhead foreward facing LED Light Bar and 2 Rear Facing LED lights.
  • pos/ground wires going from Relay to both overhead Forward Facing LED Light Bar and two rear facing LED lights>>> wires from switch/es are 'jumpered' to accommodate both rear facing LED Lights.
Am I getting in the ballpark here?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
It's tough for me to visualize your plan based on that description. Let me share one and you tell me if that agrees with your plan.

  • You will need a positive wire from the battery. That wire should be fused as close to the battery as possible, definitely within 6 inches. This power wire will go to your relay #87s.
  • You will need to tap that 072H ignition wire at the fuse box. Again the fuse should be as close to the connection point as possible. From that fuse the wire will run to your switches, as the positive (red) wire.
  • The output from your switches will go to your relays, #86s.
  • The #85s will go to the ground with your switch and light grounds. I would get those at the engine block ground but the battery is a fine location too.
  • The relay #30s will go to their respective lights.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,111 Posts
Thanks to JoeFriday1979 for starting this thread and raising this question as I am working on a similar issue right now adding lights. Special thanks to all who have answered and provided insight.

The GTT family sure is a great bunch of people. The collective knowledge, wisdom and practical experience of the GTT members who respond and provide assistance, makes what can be challenges for some, much easier to understand and provides us all a valuable and trustworthy source of great information and personal experiences and practical results. :hi:

I also appreciate that the answers are not condescending as they are on far too many of the Forums elsewhere on the internet. I was just looking at a light wiring harness on Amazon and someone posed the question asking if the light switch which was part of the harness was waterproof and someone responded by saying "Why, are you taking your vehicle swimming?" and that was it. Gee, how about those of us mounting the switches in an outside, open weather environment like on a non cabbed tractor? This is actually a very reasonable question. What is a simple answer for many who respond starts as a serious question by those asking. Here on GTT, we may joke back and forth but in a respectful way and the answer is always provided in the process.

Heck, I like most of the GTT members better than some (actually many :laugh:) of my blood relatives. :good2::thumbup1gif:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
How about this location for mounting the LED switches?

I think I can get through the wiring part of this now... Thanks EVERYONE for your patient and detailed contributions!

Would still like more definitive input on another part of this post - my desired location for mounting my switches....

I would like to cut two holes and mount these switches as shown here.... it appears there is one 'split-wire loom' already coming into this area from the rear of the black plastic cover. Would this be a good place ... and importantly, an accessible place to mount these two switches? I am showing them photographed 'taped' into the position that I would like to install them.

20161206_154153.jpg

Any concerns with 'water' exposure, etc?

Have you ever had this black plastic cover off?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
I haven't taken that piece off (yet) so I can't comment on its ability to take those switches. If there is room in there (and I think there is) that would be a nice location.

Question for you, are those switches rated as water resistant or water proof? The only thing that might make that location less than ideal is if the switches are not water resistant. Because that location is near horizontal, a spray of water (rain, snow, washing, etc...) would penetrate a non water resistant switch there, in which case a vertical surface might be better.

I drew up a quick diagram for you to keep those relays straight. Here you go, it's just like Kenny's sketch but with both relays:

 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,287 Posts
I haven't taken that piece off (yet) so I can't comment on its ability to take those switches. If there is room in there (and I think there is) that would be a nice location.

Question for you, are those switches rated as water resistant or water proof? The only thing that might make that location less than ideal is if the switches are not water resistant. Because that location is near horizontal, a spray of water (rain, snow, washing, etc...) would penetrate a non water resistant switch there, in which case a vertical surface might be better.

I drew up a quick diagram for you to keep those relays straight. Here you go, it's just like Kenny's sketch but with both relays:
My sketch creates the entire new switched circuit to feed all the lighting, hence only one relay. The rocker switches can handle 20a so there is little need to use one for each lightbar-IMHO anyway.

Your drawing has the light circuit connected directly to the battery and not switched off with the key. Of course that will work, but it is not what the OP asked for.
 
1 - 20 of 81 Posts
Top