Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Here are some pictures of LED lights that I mounted on my 1025R using Magnets. I kept everything so that it is "plug and play" and can all be removed no problem if need be;

Reverse Light- I purchased a heavy magnet and a 36 watt LED light from Amazon and simply mounted light to magnet, and then put assembly on the plate under the tool box at the back of tractor. The beauty of the magnet is you can play around with the position of light until you are happy, it has never moved a bit. For power, I tied into one of the factory purple wires located at the back of tractor, which are already prewired into the farthest right position on the light switch. The light doesn't interfere with any attachments at the rear of the tractor in this location, and gives way more then enough light. I personally think it also looks really nice (and factory) in that location. (I apologize that I didn't really get a good picture standing back a few feet from tractor, to give you a better look)

Driving lights mounted on bottom of ROPS-This project was a lot more work and planning. I ordered a lighted rocker switch that mounted in the square knock out on dash, 2 more 36 watt LED driving lights and two more magnets from Amazon. I then picked up the fuse block tie adaptor and wiring etc. locally. I wanted to keep these lights on a separate switch because they put out way to much light if it is snowing hard, you are pointed at a car or a neighbor's house etc. I don't ever like to cut into factory wiring, so I found a fused, plug in power adaptor, at local automotive store which worked awesome. I ran power from fuse box over to rocker switch located in factory knock out on dash, then ran wires under tractor. I had the 1025R up on my hoist and it was still a terrible job running this loomed wire to the rear of the tractor. I tried to follow the factory wires routing, but it was so tight that you had to zap strap almost every 6" to ensure that nothing rubs on anything on the tractor.(John Deere uses every inch of that under carriage) I always ensure that I use nylon wire loom and shrink connectors at every joint. I also installed a plug connector in order to be able to fold down ROPS and also a plug connector at the driving lights in case I ever want to remove. Once I was happy with how lights were aimed, I put zap straps to be safe, just in case I caught a tree branch or something like that. I also updated every single bulb on the tractor to LED, to ensure that I was not overloading the system. I strongly suspect that I was okay, but did not want to take any chances. The switch is always lighted on the dash so you can see at night, and when you turn it on, a second light comes on at the top of switch, works really well.

Garage Doors Operator-For those of you who notice, I used Velcro to mount a 3 door operator on the dash of tractor. That way, if I was washing tractor I could remove. This works really well too because I have 3 garage doors and tend to use them all with the 1025R.

I did take a lot of pictures, so if anyone wants a specific picture of any area/item, let me know and I should be able to add to this post. I spent a few weeks reading websites (mainly this one) to get most of my ideas, so thought I would post the whole LED light project, so that it was all together. I am very happy with the results and hope this helps anyone thinking of doing a similar type project.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
More pictures-Here is a better picture of back of 1025r and a few other project "detail pictures"
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,460 Posts
Are those stock tires? Why do they look so big?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Magnet Question

Here are some pictures of LED lights that I mounted on my 1025R using Magnets. I kept everything so that it is "plug and play" and can all be removed no problem if need be;

Reverse Light- I purchased a heavy magnet and a 36 watt LED light from Amazon and simply mounted light to magnet, and then put assembly on the plate under the tool box at the back of tractor. The beauty of the magnet is you can play around with the position of light until you are happy, it has never moved a bit. For power, I tied into one of the factory purple wires located at the back of tractor, which are already prewired into the farthest right position on the light switch. The light doesn't interfere with any attachments at the rear of the tractor in this location, and gives way more then enough light. I personally think it also looks really nice (and factory) in that location. (I apologize that I didn't really get a good picture standing back a few feet from tractor, to give you a better look)

Driving lights mounted on bottom of ROPS-This project was a lot more work and planning. I ordered a lighted rocker switch that mounted in the square knock out on dash, 2 more 36 watt LED driving lights and two more magnets from Amazon. I then picked up the fuse block tie adaptor and wiring etc. locally. I wanted to keep these lights on a separate switch because they put out way to much light if it is snowing hard, you are pointed at a car or a neighbor's house etc. I don't ever like to cut into factory wiring, so I found a fused, plug in power adaptor, at local automotive store which worked awesome. I ran power from fuse box over to rocker switch located in factory knock out on dash, then ran wires under tractor. I had the 1025R up on my hoist and it was still a terrible job running this loomed wire to the rear of the tractor. I tried to follow the factory wires routing, but it was so tight that you had to zap strap almost every 6" to ensure that nothing rubs on anything on the tractor.(John Deere uses every inch of that under carriage) I always ensure that I use nylon wire loom and shrink connectors at every joint. I also installed a plug connector in order to be able to fold down ROPS and also a plug connector at the driving lights in case I ever want to remove. Once I was happy with how lights were aimed, I put zap straps to be safe, just in case I caught a tree branch or something like that. I also updated every single bulb on the tractor to LED, to ensure that I was not overloading the system. I strongly suspect that I was okay, but did not want to take any chances. The switch is always lighted on the dash so you can see at night, and when you turn it on, a second light comes on at the top of switch, works really well.

Garage Doors Operator-For those of you who notice, I used Velcro to mount a 3 door operator on the dash of tractor. That way, if I was washing tractor I could remove. This works really well too because I have 3 garage doors and tend to use them all with the 1025R.

I did take a lot of pictures, so if anyone wants a specific picture of any area/item, let me know and I should be able to add to this post. I spent a few weeks reading websites (mainly this one) to get most of my ideas, so thought I would post the whole LED light project, so that it was all together. I am very happy with the results and hope this helps anyone thinking of doing a similar type project.


Thanks for the summary and the pictures. I tried to do this in the past with a magnet too but was unable to get any sort of glue to hold the LED light bracket to the magnet. How did you mount the light to the magnet? That would be great information. Also, can you provide details ont he magnet you got from Amazon? Thanks so much for your work - looks great and it really helps especially when backing up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Thanks for the summary and the pictures. I tried to do this in the past with a magnet too but was unable to get any sort of glue to hold the LED light bracket to the magnet. How did you mount the light to the magnet? That would be great information. Also, can you provide details ont he magnet you got from Amazon? Thanks so much for your work - looks great and it really helps especially when backing up.
Looks like he uses the center hole of the chrome magnet backing plate. Then a short bolt and nut to attach the U bracket that comes with the light.

Magnets are usually installed with epoxy to the backing plate. Unfortunately it doesn't always hold.
 

·
Senior GTT Super Slacker
Joined
·
37,463 Posts
Looks like he uses the center hole of the chrome magnet backing plate. Then a short bolt and nut to attach the U bracket that comes with the light.

Magnets are usually installed with epoxy to the backing plate. Unfortunately it doesn't always hold.
:thumbup1gif:
Sort of like what I did here...

Tree_Garden (4).jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the summary and the pictures. I tried to do this in the past with a magnet too but was unable to get any sort of glue to hold the LED light bracket to the magnet. How did you mount the light to the magnet? That would be great information. Also, can you provide details ont he magnet you got from Amazon? Thanks so much for your work - looks great and it really helps especially when backing up.
Bolted the lights to the magnets, as per picture detail. Here are the Amazon order magnet details, I used the 200 lb. one on the reverse light and the 65 lb ones on the driving lights with zap straps to be safe. (Keep in mind it is the Canadian Amazon site, so prices will be different then American site) The 200 lb. magnet has an unbelievable grip, you'll need two friends to help you remove. I would have used them on ROPS lights too, but the base size was too big. Remember that adding a 36 watt LED driving light, is like adding another headlight, so you get tons of light. Attached pictures should be very self explanatory, but let me know if you have any more questions.

:bigthumb:
Tom
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Are those stock tires? Why do they look so big?
Yes, they are the stock size, not sure why they look so big. It sure was surprizing to me how much more traction the turf tires had in the snow, when compared to the R4's. The dealer told me that when I bought the two sets, but I didn't really believe him. Out of curiosity, I think that I will buy a set of HDAP tires for next year, and mount them on the R4 rims. I can always sell the R4's with the machine in 30 years........

:plowsnow:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
:thumbup1gif:
Sort of like what I did here...

View attachment 523930
Somehow that hatchet would end up in my kneecap. lol

However I could have used it one back in the hood. A park dweller tried to rip me out of the seat while moving snow with a Kabota B21. He got mad because snow ended behind his Wrangler. I tried to out run him but I was only in second gear. Luckily he tired easily. Thought he was going to rip the bucket off the post.
Then he called the police on me. The officer asked me if I knew the what trailer was 525?
I said let me tell you why you are here. The cop read him the riot act and made him say inside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,965 Posts
Somehow that hatchet would end up in my kneecap. lol

However I could have used it one back in the hood. A park dweller tried to rip me out of the seat while moving snow with a Kabota B21. He got mad because snow ended behind his Wrangler. I tried to out run him but I was only in second gear. Luckily he tired easily. Thought he was going to rip the bucket off the post.
Then he called the police on me. The officer asked me if I knew the what trailer was 525?
I said let me tell you why you are here. The cop read him the riot act and made him say inside.
If someone tried that with me, their car would find out what 580# of bucket and 1500# of loader arms does to a Jeep!

"Sorry Officer, I was trying to avoid the car but it's hard to drive when you're fending off a guy with a machete in one hand and the steering wheel in the other."

I have one of these mounted to my fender:
Machete-24.jpg

It's not a very good machete. I should've gotten a parang like I wanted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Yes, they are the stock size, not sure why they look so big. It sure was surprizing to me how much more traction the turf tires had in the snow, when compared to the R4's. The dealer told me that when I bought the two sets, but I didn't really believe him. Out of curiosity, I think that I will buy a set of HDAP tires for next year, and mount them on the R4 rims. I can always sell the R4's with the machine in 30 years........

:plowsnow:
What brand of snow blade do you have on your tractor in the picture with the R4 tires on.
Thanks
Ken
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
If someone tried that with me, their car would find out what 580# of bucket and 1500# of loader arms does to a Jeep!

"Sorry Officer, I was trying to avoid the car but it's hard to drive when you're fending off a guy with a machete in one hand and the steering wheel in the other."

I have one of these mounted to my fender:
View attachment 524810

It's not a very good machete. I should've gotten a parang like I wanted.
Unfortunately the tractor was parked just passed his Jeep when he came up to confront me.
I was seriously considering the bottom of my fist to his face. This was about the time he started tripping over his own feet. So I just kept it floored. Shortly after he fell off. He is really lucky that he didn't end up under the back wheels.

Not punching him went a long way with the cops. They like when you try to de escalate a confrontation. Then they are more likely to be on your side. When you end up having to do what you should have done in the first place. lol

Let me tell you what cops really hate. People arguing or worse about snow.

You need a hockey mask to go along with that machete. Just to protect your face while chopping things like people. lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Why the 36 watt lights

I appreciate the post. I am new to the group..only had my 1025r one month and am upgrading to led lights. I bought 2 18watt light designed like what you show in the pictures. Question why 36 watt and not 27 or 18? I bought the 18watt at 1800 lumens and one is super bright. are the forward facing ones to bright or do you have issues with glare from the lights? Or since they are up on the ROPS there is no issues. I also purchased the same toggle switch. Appreciate the feedback
Deven
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Great project and thread. Can you link to the LED bulbs you used for the side lodes and headlights?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Great light setup. Thanks for the details. I upgraded the headlight and fender lights with similare LEDs. They are bright. I added the tail light metal protector and mounted some Amazon Nilights facing forward facing and with an extra bracket mounted on the left side I mounted one rear facing flood. All three are switched on and off using the main light switch but I have added in line on-off switches for each light should i want to turn them off independently.
 

Attachments

1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top