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Not sure if this should be here or in Implenents. I'll try here, but mods, by all means move me to the right spot if that's proper.

With it being July, snow is not right around the corner, but it'll be here before I know it.

Obviously, with the FEL mounted the headlights generally aren't much use. The side fender lights, I've found, are useful when properly oriented, but I need something for the front of the tractor.

I know this is a topic here, but I see reference to improving the lighting...just haven't stumbled across WHAT is the right choice for that job?

I'm looking for something to fill that "void" that the FEL creates by blocking the headlights.

My starting snow righ is the FEL with EdgeTamers and a rear blade. I'm sure I'll have ideas as I get into the snow cleanup process further, but that's my starter setup. I do see maybe adding a loader mounted snow blade some day if my current setup leaves me feeling like it's not sufficient.

Also- I'm rolling on R4's. My snow cleanup is a bit of grass to cross...maybe 60 yards or so....to get from the shed to the drive way. That will need to be cleared to make way for the tractor, plus it opens up access to the shed where I store my heating pellets. Then I have 200-250' of asphalt driveway. It's downhill to the road, but if you go downhill, you gotta go uphill to get back.

Chains...? Wait and see?

Just like to get myself situated in advance rather than scramble at the last minute.

Thanks all!
 

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Lighting for your snow clean up with the FEL is probably going to be along the lines of a light bar on the ROPS (good use of Ken's ROPS clamps) and/or work lights mounted on the tail light protectors. Upgrading the headlights to LED will help too.

I'd hold off on chains for now (I have R4s also). The 3 winters I've had my 1025, the only time I might have used chains is when it snowed 10" that was heavy-wet. That happen once last winter and once the winter before. It was like driving on grease. Chains might have helped, because rear ballast sure didn't (I normally don't use any rear ballast to plow). But it's not the norm for me. Usually my plowing is dryer snow, so I wasn't ready to jump on the chain-gang for an occasional use. From what I've heard, not too many use chains on the 1025, but everyone's situation is different.
 
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I did my own custom lighting on my ROPS to see over my snow clearing implements. I did that before Artillian Tractor came up with their ROPS lighting kit. I would have purchased their kit without hesitation if they had it when I put my lighting on. Here is the link to the Artillian kit: LINK

The chains are important for me if the conditions are icy. Those R4's have a good tread for working in snow, but they are hard and flat on ice. You will be able to get the tractor moving, but stopping is another matter. This is very important if you are working on hills or near drop-offs (ditches, etc.).
 
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I don't have an opinion on lighting since I use a front mount broom, blade or snow blower, depending on snow depth. Concerning chains, I found in moderate snows 3" to 6", you do not need chains. When you get to deeper snows, then coming up my hill is a problem.

So, I usually don't have my chains on all the time, although if the prediction is for 6" + of snow, then I put them on.

I had a X748 prior to my 1025R. I always used chains on the 748, but when I got the 1025R, I thought it would be OK without chains. Wrong!!!! Shortly after I got it, I was pushing snow with the blade and slid the tractor onto the highway at the bottom of my driveway. Needless to say, I learned my lesson, especially in wet snow.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
We often get wet, slushy snow.

I may get a set of rear chains. Just to have them. And I’ll check out the Artillian light kit. (y)
 

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I had the extra lighting installed by dealer when I purchased the tractor.I was in the process of selling my house and moving so went with JD OEM front and rear ROPS mounted work lights. I later read, I think it was Kens thread on sipping tires so I ordered the heated wire gun and sipped my rear tires. Sipping the tires worked great in the snow. Unless my terrain changes significantly, I don’t see myself ever needing chains. I wouldn’t want chains n my asphalt driveway anyway. I also picked up from some of JGAYs posts and added an additional drift blade, painted the tips of both, JD yellow, so I had one on each side and added a set of the much larger skid shoes for the blower. Also added a strip of horse stall mat to my rear blade.
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Replaced the headligh bulbs with $15 LED Bulbs (fan cooled.. fans still work after a year..) and energized both the high and low beams.

First thing I did after the HL bulb upgrade.. was paint the inside of the grill gaurd bar with flat black paint...

I made some little steel brackets and mounted 10$ Amazon "Warehouse Deal" LED spot lights to the outside of the ROPS when I put my hazard/brake/turn lights on the inside of the bars.
They've proven pretty really rugged, and the light has been great for every job.

I also put similar lights ($13..flood pattern), using the fender mount bolts, pointing to the rear. These have been incredible, and I highly recommend this very simple addition.

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I chained my rear tires up last fall. (first winter with this machine).

My reasoning is that I own the chains, I don't do anything else with the machine in the winter 'cept push snow or (rarely) blow it, and I don't want to wait 'til i know "I should have put them on" ... to put them on.

I do own fronts...but do not use or need them and can't imagine needing them ....ever.
Probably don't "need" the rears either...but I do dumb things like blow a path around the yard for the dogs.
 
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