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All, my 1025R coolant reservoir's top is covered with what looks like dried up/heated up coolant, and the reservoir itself has a barely detectable amount of coolant in it, actually an amount below the level of the "draw" tube.

Have not had any high temp readings, but haven't used the machine in a couple months and it's coooold here in Upstate NY.

Aside from the reservoir level, is there a way to make sure there is coolant in the radiator? Also is it true I can't use the "green" antifreeze to top this off?
 

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You can remove the radiator cap and verify that the radiator tank is full.

If the overflow tank looks funky remove it and flush it out.

As for which coolant to use, the operator's manual has the following information on coolant:

Recommended Engine Coolant

The engine cooling system is filled to provide year-round protection against corrosion and cylinder liner pitting, and winter freeze protection to -37 degrees C (-34 degrees F). If protection at lower temperatures is required, consult your John Deere dealer for recommendations.

  • The following coolants are preferred:
  • John Deere COOL-GARD™ II Premix
  • John Deere COOL-GARD™ II PG Premix
Use John Deere COOL-GARD II PG Premix when a non-toxic coolant formulation is required.
The following engine coolant is also recommended:

  • John Deere COOL-GARD™ II Concentrate in a 40—60% mixture of concentrate with quality water.
John Deere COOL-GARD II Premix, COOL-GARD II PG Premix, and COOL-GARD II Concentrate coolants do not require use of supplemental coolant additives.
Other Coolants
John Deere COOL-GARD II and COOL-GARD II PG coolants might not be available in the geographical area where service is performed.
If these coolants are unavailable, use a coolant concentrate or pre-diluted coolant intended for use with heavy duty diesel engines and with a minimum of the following chemical and physical properties:

  • Is formulated with a quality nitrite-free additive package.
  • Provides cylinder liner cavitation protection according to either the John Deere Cavitation Test Method or a fleet study run at or above 60% load capacity.
  • Protects the cooling system metals (cast iron, aluminum alloys, and copper alloys such as brass) from corrosion.
The additive package must be part of one of the following coolant mixtures:

  • Ethylene glycol or propylene glycol base prediluted (40—60%) heavy duty coolant.
  • Ethylene glycol or propylene glycol base heavy duty coolant concentrate in a 40—60% mixture of concentrate with quality water.
Water Quality

  • Water quality is important to the performance of the cooling system. Distilled, deionized, or demineralized water is recommended for mixing with ethylene glycol and propylene glycol base engine coolant concentrate.
IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! Do not use cooling system sealing additives or antifreeze that contains sealing additives.Do not mix ethylene glycol and propylene glycol base coolants.
Do not use coolants that contain nitrates.
 

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My tank was also empty. I filled it today to the cold line with the premix coolant coolgaurd 2 I picked up at my dealer today. Used about a half pint out of the gallon I had to buy...
 

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Check your radiator clamps. They love to wiggle loose.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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All, my 1025R coolant reservoir's top is covered with what looks like dried up/heated up coolant, and the reservoir itself has a barely detectable amount of coolant in it, actually an amount below the level of the "draw" tube.

Have not had any high temp readings, but haven't used the machine in a couple months and it's coooold here in Upstate NY.

Aside from the reservoir level, is there a way to make sure there is coolant in the radiator? Also is it true I can't use the "green" antifreeze to top this off?
That tanks job is to keep the system full. Like anything coolant expands when heated and contracts as it cools. If your tank was almost empty at say 60-70 degrees the temperature dropping below freezing could have sucked the last of it into the system. If the system has any leaks it will eventually drain the expansion tank. How fast this happens depends on the size of the leak.

I'd recommend using the premixed JD coolant. This way you don't have to worry about getting the proper water to coolant mix. Any number of bad things can happen from mixing 2 or more different coolants. The most common problem is shortening the life expectancy or change interval.
 

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Actually HD it serves another purpose. It also keeps air out of the system. The less oxygen introduced into the cooling system the better. Oxidation of iron, aluminum and even the coolant is much reduced.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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Actually HD it serves another purpose. It also keeps air out of the system. The less oxygen introduced into the cooling system the better. Oxidation of iron, aluminum and even the coolant is much reduced.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Yes air in the system doesn't help the engine stay cool either. It could overheat under normal operating conditions.

That's another thing I forgot to mention about mixing different brands/types of coolant. The corrosion inhibitors may not work as designed.

Also tap water should never be mixed like 50/50 with concentrated anti freeze. Use distilled or just buy the pre mixed stuff.
 
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