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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last year while taking off my mower deck my mm pto shaft fell and wrecked the rear lock assembly bar.

It seems as though the root cause is that I am missing that Cap Screw, which causes my auto connect coupler to hang low. (Not sure when/how it happened, nor am I proud that it did).


This screw just presses against that back plate, right? So i just need the screw, 2 nuts, and a washer, right? Or am I missing something?

TIA!

I have loved all the help I've gotten from this forum. Gave me the confidence to do so many things with my scut by myself rather than going to the dealer for everything.


(Note, the picture below is not my machine, but a screenshot of a video i saw.).



783771

783768
 

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From what you're describing, yes, you've got it. The bolt, 2 nuts and the washer. And yes, the head of the bolt presses against that 'back plate'.

When installing the parts, install the washer on the front side, like shown in the parts diagram and in this picture I'm posting, not like in the picture you posted. The bearing inserts from the front and then is peened to retain it. The theory is the washer also helps retain it if the bearing were to come loose.

After installing the bolt & such, adjust the bolt so the face of the coupler is plumb when the lift assembly is in its lowest position. Tighten the nuts to secure.

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I googled and borrowed a picture that someone posted here. No name was attached, but thank you to the contributor.
783786

Note that the washer (#8 in the diagram) has an outer diameter large enough to cover the rim of the bearing. The bearing is not a press fit; is just peened in place at three places around its rim, and the washer does aid somewhat in bearing retention. In the screenshot picture you posted, this washer is missing.

The theory kylew mentioned above is fact, at least in my case. I did have this bearing break free, and the washer was the only thing still holding it in place. I have no idea how long the bearing was free before I noticed it. I used a center punch and re-peened it back in place, and it's still going a couple of years later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the confirmation. As much as I like the time with my wife, I am looking forward to attaching the mower being a single person job again and not worrying about my hand being crushed guiding the coupler on while the wife inches ahead ;)

Next I should probably decide if my neutral switch bypass is permanent - it stopped working completely the morning of the biggest snow storm this winter... And that little plastic friction disc on my 3 point.. and the LED work lights still sitting in the box... :)
 

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- it stopped working completely the morning of the biggest snow storm this winter...
That's typically the seat switch itself. Some have reported that in the cold, the seat is stiff and the switch gets a little sticky. A cab with heat will fix that 👍😁
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I googled and borrowed a picture that someone posted here. No name was attached, but thank you to the contributor.
View attachment 783786
Note that the washer (#8 in the diagram) has an outer diameter large enough to cover the rim of the bearing. The bearing is not a press fit; is just peened in place at three places around its rim, and the washer does aid somewhat in bearing retention. In the screenshot picture you posted, this washer is missing.

The theory kylew mentioned above is fact, at least in my case. I did have this bearing break free, and the washer was the only thing still holding it in place. I have no idea how long the bearing was free before I noticed it. I used a center punch and re-peened it back in place, and it's still going a couple of years later.
Is the washer on the front of the bearing/housing in this picture? Or is that just a different colored piece? The diagram looks to have in it 'behind' (rear) of housing? I am also not opposed to just getting an additional washer and putting one on each side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That's typically the seat switch itself. Some have reported that in the cold, the seat is stiff and the switch gets a little sticky. A cab with heat will fix that 👍😁
The wind in my face makes me feel alive! And my heated vest keeps me plenty warm.

I hate the seat safety switch more than the neutral switch, but with kids around and ready to start using the tractor, I wouldn't feel great about bypassing it. Though the neutral switch does serve as a defactor ignition lockout, at least until they start pulling the lever to **** :)
 

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The washer is on the front, like in Clyde's and my picture. It's separate from the nut, though it may look like one piece. Also, the parts diagram is showing it in the front, not the back. Note the "direction of travel" in the lower, left of the parts diagram.

A washer on the back doesn't do much if the nut has a flange, like it's supposed to. The bearing only comes out the front. The casting has a lip in the back for the bearing to bottom out against, so a washer in the back doesn't do anything.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The washer is on the front, like in Clyde's and my picture. It's separate from the nut, though it may look like one piece. Also, the parts diagram is showing it in the front, not the back. Note the "direction of travel" in the lower, left of the parts diagram.

A washer on the back doesn't do much if the nut has a flange, like it's supposed to. The bearing only comes out the front. The casting has a lip in the back for the bearing to bottom out against, so a washer in the back doesn't do anything.
I looked at the direction of travel no less than 5 times, and still couldn't get it through my thick skull. What an idiot! Thanks again!
 

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Lol. It happens
 
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