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Well.........

My first impression upon sitting on a 1025R was that it was too big to use to mow my lawn. Probably should have listened to myself - I have a few places I really cannot get it in to and unless I am super careful the tractor just rips the sh*t out of my lawn. I have a 54" MMM and R4 tires.




First problem was the ROPS - the top portion just had to come off. It was just way too destructive to my trees and I am unwilling to trim trees to accommodate a mower - they provide privacy from a fairly busy road.:treehugger: The way the ROPS is designed for these tractors is disappointing at best. It gathers, traps, and snaps branches as you move forward. Really, I think the way they gather tree limbs behind and then towards my head is more of a safety issue than the possibility of rolling on fairly flat ground is. Pulling down a prized tree was a serious safety issue when my wife found out about it. :nunu: I do not know what the people who designed the way ROPS "folds down" were thinking. It doesn't fold down. It is attached in a destructive and somewhat dangerous position, or it flops around - even worse if the 3 point hitch is in place. So it is gone. Pretty sure that's not what they had in mind(?).



Curiosities:

Turf Tires - I have read here in a number of posts that turf tires really won't help much over the R4 tires that are installed. I find this difficult to get my head around. :confused: If I accelerate at all I have an R4 pattern in my grass - if I turn too sharply I have an R4 pattern in my grass - and the grass in these patterns eventually dies. Practice will help with that - but over the course of a few mows I'm already getting ruts in the lawn due to the sheer weight of the tractor and that is difficult to solve. It's ugly. I live in a situation where my lawn is generally wet to very wet, and there is really nothing I can do about that. :gaah:




Wheel Weights - 50# per side - dealer told me removing and installing the wheel weights is a serious PITA and removing them will make little/no difference. Still, 100 pounds is a 100 more pounds on the lawn....makes me wonder.




So - it is too late to look back now - and don't get me wrong - I LOVE the other things I can do with the tractor, but it is disappointing that it doesn't do the primary job I bought it for very well. Wah.
 

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Doesn't Deere have a 30 day return on new tractors?

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If you don't have a FEL (you don't say), why do you need wheel weights? If you do have a FEL and don't use it often, take it and the wheel weights off when you are mowing. Honestly, 100# on the rear axle is not enough to safely use a FEL anyway with the small tractors.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you don't have a FEL (you don't say), why do you need wheel weights? If you do have a FEL and don't use it often, take it and the wheel weights off when you are mowing. Honestly, 100# on the rear axle is not enough to safely use a FEL anyway with the small tractors.

Al
Good point. I do have a FEL and a backhoe - when one is on the other generally is as well. If anything I have noticed that the front end seems too lightly loaded at times and it causes me issues with turning - so the wheel weights are probably most useful when I use it to plow - and the lawn isn't getting mowed in the winter.


I think I'll take them off. Can't hurt.
 

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Well......... If I accelerate at all I have an R4 pattern in my grass - if I turn too sharply I have an R4 pattern in my grass - and the grass in these patterns eventually dies. Practice will help with that - but over the course of a few mows I'm already getting ruts in the lawn due to the sheer weight of the tractor and that is difficult to solve.
Make sure when you mow that you are not in MFWD (4 wheel drive). Also, others have had a problem with the differential lock being engaged full time(usually cured by adjusting the brakes).
 

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I agree about the ROPS. Stupid design. And why do they have to be so tall???:dunno:

Yes even folded the stupid thing sticks up too high and catches tree branches. One can move one’s self to clear trees but those posts sticking up ....don’t. The folding hinge s/b another 8 inches lower. And the total roll bar a foot shorter.

Simple solution saws all and ten minutes fixed.:quiet::quiet: don’t say this too loud it may offend the pro roll bar crowd.
 

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If anything I have noticed that the front end seems too lightly loaded at times and it causes me issues with turning - so the wheel weights are probably most useful when I use it to plow - and the lawn isn't getting mowed in the winter.
Wheel weights won't do anything to change the loading on the front end.

Make sure you are not in 4x4 and that the diff lock is not engaged.
 

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Yes even folded the stupid thing sticks up too high and catches tree branches. One can move one’s self to clear trees but those posts sticking up ....don’t. The folding hinge s/b another 8 inches lower. And the total roll bar a foot shorter.

Simple solution saws all and ten minutes fixed.:quiet::quiet: don’t say this too loud it may offend the pro roll bar crowd.
I am completely in favor of modifying equipment to suit your needs, but be sure you understand the consequences. For example, the ability to trade it in or resale value.
 

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I’ll buy wheel weights if you decide to never use them!!


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Good point. I do have a FEL and a backhoe - when one is on the other generally is as well. If anything I have noticed that the front end seems too lightly loaded at times and it causes me issues with turning - so the wheel weights are probably most useful when I use it to plow - and the lawn isn't getting mowed in the winter.


I think I'll take them off. Can't hurt.
Bingo. The BH is more than enough ballast for the FEL. Put the wheel weights back on in November. Take 'em off in April. Or whatever your situation dictates.

Al
 

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Howdy grahamk,

I mow with with almost same set up but I habe the 60in mmm. I took off the top part of my rops but for a different reason. I didnt take a sawzall to mine because of my light posts and the trees I mow around are all taller than the posts sticking up. Plus I found out that they sticking up like they do it is easier for me to climb up and down off the bh.

Anyway, you dont need the extra 100lbs on there and the only way to avoid ruts is to let it dry out more, move over a tire width when making the next pass or take the fel and bh off.

I mow with all 3 on the machine because i struggle with my arthritis and its a real challenge for me to disconnect/ connect the hoses. If I get in a hurry and dont let my lawn dry enough I know I am going to leave ruts in my lawn. To me it doesn't matter much. I just got used to making a little bit wider turns to not tear the grass out. I have the R4 tires but am going to get the KENDA HDAP tires for mine, I live in a rocky area and the Kendas will work for me. I hope that helps..

Good luck!
WB
 

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The BH is more than enough ballast for the FEL.
Are you sure?

The 260 backhoe weighs 610 lbs (with 16" bucket) according to the manual.

The ballast required for the FEL is 601 lbs + fluid filled tires, according to the manual.

I can find no mention of wether or not you need wheel weights or filled tires when the backhoe is attached, but using the published ballast requirements suggests that fluid filled tires are required.
 
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I suffer from some of the same issues you have. First of all I hate the ROPS as well. In the down position it is in the perfect place to hit your head. (See my post of hitting head on ROPS bar). So I must trim some trees or live with it. I originally purchased my 1025r with R4 tires. I quickly changed to the Turf tires, and am completely satisfied with them for what I do with the tractor. The R4's were tearing my lawn up. I have a similar post about weights and having too much added weight for mowing when you have wet ground. Everyone has different needs for their tractors and have different ground, lawns etc.. Thats the neat thing about this forum, you can get a lot of knowledgeable advice to make the decisions that is right for you.
 

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HI W9GFO
Remember the BH extends more than 3 ft behind the back axle so that extra leverage would compensate for the weight fluid in the wheels ( or lack of). A couple of lbs here or there is not going to make that much difference.
Regards John
 

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Well for what it's worth......I have used my 1026R for over seven hundred hours.....and that's probably almost 500 hours mowing. I'm sure that turf tires are less destructive on a lawn and probably ride better as well. I have done a lot of FEL work with this tractor. Weight is your friend and you should never work without it. I have had a few close calls on uneven ground with a loaded bucket and that's a feeling you remember for a long time. Your ROPS is certainly there to protect you....and the John Deere one series ROPS is an exceptionally high one. I have eliminated a lot of trees/branches to accommodate the ROPS. I can certainly appreciate the desire to keep branches to maintain privacy. I have done some careful pruning to allow my tractor to get around trees without getting rid of a lot of branches. Probably a 700 series tractor would get around trees better but then you can't have a FEL, BH and other stuff. I'm not sure where you live but here in PA it has been an exceptionally wet summer. Perhaps just waiting until it is dryer will help with ruts. Good luck!
 

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I am completely in favor of modifying equipment to suit your needs, but be sure you understand the consequences. For example, the ability to trade it in or resale value.

Don’t care, I’m planning on NEVER replacing this tractor. This thing is built like a tank and as long as I can get the stuff that wears out or fabricate something to work life is good. And if it comes to resale, it’s AS IS.:bigbeer:
 

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HI W9GFO
Remember the BH extends more than 3 ft behind the back axle so that extra leverage would compensate for the weight fluid in the wheels...

What is important is the location of center of gravity of the 601 lb backhoe (it is not 3ft behind the axle) compared to the center of gravity of the 610lbs of ballast. I am skeptical that there is any "extra" leverage compared to the ballast box.
 
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Are you sure?

The 260 backhoe weighs 610 lbs (with 16" bucket) according to the manual.

The ballast required for the FEL is 601 lbs + fluid filled tires, according to the manual.

I can find no mention of wether or not you need wheel weights or filled tires when the backhoe is attached, but using the published ballast requirements suggests that fluid filled tires are required.

I wonder why they don't come that way right from JD?

I have moved boulders that I could only lift the bucket off the ground a few inches. Just enough to clear the ground. I do not have weights or fluid in my tires and only use the bh for weight, I have yet to find anything to change my mind that i need fluid in the tires to add to the weignt of the tractor. Why? Because the Fel wont pick up anything heavier than it can handle with it configured like it is.

With that being said unless I was using the fel or forks to put big heavy objects up high I might consider adding fluid or more weight to it but us every day users aren't doing that.

Plus most everyone with common sense carries heavy objects down low and dont get crazy making turns or going crazy fast where you put yourself in a bad situation. Just saying and just my 2 cents.

I added a pic of a big boulder that was pushing Betsy's limit. I carried a big stump the other day that was a challenge with the way its weight was spread out that i picked up and put down several times until i got its weight centered in the bucket because it was throwing off Betsy's center of gravity too much and i took extra precautions to keep it low and slow to get it back into the woods. Anyway, its your choice whatever you do with your toys..

Good luck!
WB
 

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Hi wentonbrown
I totally agree I have had loads on the FEL curl back (after market FEL) with the bucket off, that were so heavy the loader would not lift but the curl back would just lift it enough to clear the ground. Still had enough weight on the back wheels to drive :good2:
Hi W9GFO I did not Know we were talking about C of G I thought we were talking about counter weight ie fluid filled tyres to counter any weight in the bucket. If you put say 4 gallons of fluid in the tyres ie 40 lb you only need 20 lb in the BH bucket to have the same effect. The tractor has a 5 ft wheelbase and the BH bucket is a further 5 ft behind the back axle when in the transport position.
So what you are saying is there is no difference if you mount the 610 lb ballast box between the lift arms or behind a heavy hitch which would move the Cof G of the ballast box 12 to 18 inches further back from the front axle?
Regards John
 
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