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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve been reading lots about wheel weights and fluid filled tires. I’m looking or some input from folks that have been mowing with both.

Because I bought a FEL my dealer requires the tires be filled with calcium ( not my favorite) so I have approximately 100lbs in each tire. Mowing a few hilly areas I want to keep the tractor shiny side up I was thinking to add 72lbs wheel weights.

Dealer said I won’t need them. Anyone have thoughts?
 

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I think the wheel weights and filled tires are pretty much good for everything, no down side other than parting ways with sweet sweet cash. No difference in rutting the lawn (usually the front tires causing the issue, at least in my case) and I noticed a real difference in stability with fluid and weights added.
 

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I’ve been reading lots about wheel weights and fluid filled tires. I’m looking or some input from folks that have been mowing with both.

Because I bought a FEL my dealer requires the tires be filled with calcium ( not my favorite) so I have approximately 100lbs in each tire. Mowing a few hilly areas I want to keep the tractor shiny side up I was thinking to add 72lbs wheel weights.

Dealer said I won’t need them. Anyone have thoughts?
The dealer required that the tires be filled with calcium? That's a new one. The manual says that you can use fluid filled tires (not limited to calcium) or you can use wheel weights or a combination of both. But... more importantly... the 120R loader requires the use of 3PH ballast which is usually satisfied with a ballast box. Did the dealer also require that you purchase a ballast box?
 

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I’ve been reading lots about wheel weights and fluid filled tires. I’m looking or some input from folks that have been mowing with both.

Because I bought a FEL my dealer requires the tires be filled with calcium ( not my favorite) so I have approximately 100lbs in each tire. Mowing a few hilly areas I want to keep the tractor shiny side up I was thinking to add 72lbs wheel weights.

Dealer said I won’t need them. Anyone have thoughts?
Did the dealer load your tires for free? If the dealer is making those stipulations i would hope so. I have windshield wash in my tires wheel weights and i find the tractor works best with 450 lbs hanging on the 3 pt.if i don't have a impliment on back. Get the wheel weights. Kent
 

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Don't think that the fluid filled tires eliminate the need for proper rear 3 point ballast, especially with the FEL on the machine, as they don't. You need much more weight on the rear of the machine to provide proper ballast. The addition of the rear wheel weights alone won't meet the need for proper ballast when using the FEL.

I was moving top soil yesterday for a neighbor and even with a 48" box blade on the back of the machine for ballast (which is 350 pounds including the use of the Imatch hitch), the rear of the machine would get light lifting the buckets of top soil. My tractor also has the Mauser cab, which adds 400 pounds to the rear of the machine.

So make sure you also have either a real ballast box, a rear mounted HEAVY implement, the Heavy Hitch weight bar with suitcase weights or something which will add the proper rear ballast for the machine.

Personally, I would suggest the Heavy Hitch rear 3 point weight bar so you can easily remove the weight when mowing. I think the weight of the ballast on the 3 point hitch better serves the needs and also is easy to remove.

Most people don't like to mow lawns with the FEL on the machine due to turning space, etc. Plus, removing the weight from the machine helps cut down the ruts in the lawn when mowing. I would want to be able to remove the ballast when mowing with the FEL removed from the machine. Removing the wheel weights is not an easy or practical option compared to the Heavy Hitch 3 point weight bar and suitcase weights or a ballast box.
 

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My rear wheels rip up my lawn pretty badly unless i am very careful. Removing the wheel weights helped. I would not want my tires filled. Standard disclaimer, by lawn is usually quite damp - i do not think i would have the issue on a dry lawn.
 

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When people say use a ballast box with a front end loader (FEL) I hope that it is understood by everyone that forks and grapples also require the ballast box! :thumbup1gif: :thumbup1gif: :thumbup1gif:
 

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Tires

Just posting my opinion if you are tearing up the yard with R4s.

I put HDAPs on before the mowing season and have had zero issues tearing up the lawn even in 2wd up hills. It has been really wet as well so far this year.

Last fall when I got my 1025 with the R4s, I was constantly spinning out and had to be careful on the smallest incline. HDAPs ride and handle so much better.

One note, you can try running your rears at 10-12 psi. That will put more tread contact to the ground and maybe cause less slippage.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I’ve been reading lots about wheel weights and fluid filled tires. I’m looking or some input from folks that have been mowing with both.

Because I bought a FEL my dealer requires the tires be filled with calcium ( not my favorite) so I have approximately 100lbs in each tire. Mowing a few hilly areas I want to keep the tractor shiny side up I was thinking to add 72lbs wheel weights.

Dealer said I won’t need them. Anyone have thoughts?
The dealer required that the tires be filled with calcium? That's a new one. The manual says that you can use fluid filled tires (not limited to calcium) or you can use wheel weights or a combination of both. But... more importantly... the 120R loader requires the use of 3PH ballast which is usually satisfied with a ballast box. Did the dealer also require that you purchase a ballast box?


No they did not require I purchase a ballast box. He said the filled tires would be all I need, I know from reading lots on here that is most likely not the case. I would like to add a heavy hitch but am concerned about shipping cost as I’m in. B.C. Canada. I need to look into that more.

But dealer also talked me out of buying the wheels weights. My previous mowing experience was on an X300 so I’m not totally comfortable on the 1025R yet. I didn’t feel like I was in a bad situation mowing the other day but want to feel good and stable but not wreck all the grass I’m mowing.

I will contact dealer today about the 120r specs and ballast questions
 

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No they did not require I purchase a ballast box. He said the filled tires would be all I need, I know from reading lots on here that is most likely not the case. I would like to add a heavy hitch but am concerned about shipping cost as I’m in. B.C. Canada. I need to look into that more.

But dealer also talked me out of buying the wheels weights. My previous mowing experience was on an X300 so I’m not totally comfortable on the 1025R yet. I didn’t feel like I was in a bad situation mowing the other day but want to feel good and stable but not wreck all the grass I’m mowing.

I will contact dealer today about the 120r specs and ballast questions
First off, if your dealer is telling you that loaded rears are all you'll need well, he shouldn't be selling tractors. :nunu:

Second, if you buy the HH weight bracket, do yourself a HUGE favor and also purchase the hitch/suitcase weight cart. From my experience they should come together, I will get that one day, until then I find myself not using it much because it's a PITA to put the weights on and off every use.
 

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When I had fluid filled R4s, I had some issues in the damp areas of my lawn. I bought another set of R3 (turf) tires and rims and I filled the rear tires with windshield washer fluid. I haven't had any issues with that combination. Calcium is heavier than washer fluid, gallon for gallon. However, it is corrosive. If I recall correctly, I was able to fill each rear tire with about 10 gallons. So I'm definitely light of 100 pounds per wheel. If you really think you need every pound you can get, I believe Rim-Guard has a product that weighs as much calcium chloride, if not more, but not corrosive.

Spending my own money and my own opinion, you'll achieve much more bang for your ballast dollar on weight that can be hung aft of the rear axle, not on the axle centerline. In this manner, the ballast also serves to reduce the loader payload weight impact on the front axle, front tires, steering components, etc. When the ballast is aft of the rear axle, the rear axle becomes a fulcrum point and the weight aft of the rear axle acts as a counter balance, transferring some of the loader payload weight from the front axle to the rear axle.

This sticky has some illustrations and discussion in this regard.

In my opinion, fluid filled rear tires are a very cost effective rear ballast and offers some additional stability, as well. However, rather than wheel weights, considering their cost, I went with a Heavy Hitch dual row weight receiver and 16*42 pound suitcase weights. Albeit, the most expensive form of ballast. However, I can utilize it on the front of the tractor when I have rear implements in place. It also tucks in closer than a ballast box, reducing the likelihood of backing or swinging it into something. You don't have to purchase it all at once, either.
 

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First off, if your dealer is telling you that loaded rears are all you'll need well, he shouldn't be selling tractors. :nunu:

Second, if you buy the HH weight bracket, do yourself a HUGE favor and also purchase the hitch/suitcase weight cart. From my experience they should come together, I will get that one day, until then I find myself not using it much because it's a PITA to put the weights on and off every use.
I have the cart even though I can’t roll it around. The wood plank floor in my barn has enough gaps between that the wheels are too small and stop dead when I hit a crack.

But even for just storage like I use it it is fantastic when setup with iMatch bushings - just back up to the cart - slide the receiver tube in or out - lower or raise - and off I go.

I can still lift the weights if I have to but it is one of those things that will cause me a couple days of pain afterward.
 

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No they did not require I purchase a ballast box. He said the filled tires would be all I need, I know from reading lots on here that is most likely not the case. I would like to add a heavy hitch but am concerned about shipping cost as I’m in. B.C. Canada. I need to look into that more.

But dealer also talked me out of buying the wheels weights. My previous mowing experience was on an X300 so I’m not totally comfortable on the 1025R yet. I didn’t feel like I was in a bad situation mowing the other day but want to feel good and stable but not wreck all the grass I’m mowing.

I will contact dealer today about the 120r specs and ballast questions
Wow... that's pretty messed up. At this point I wouldn't trust anything that they told me. Either the guy you've been dealing with is a complete newbie or he's a seasoned sales dude that is off his rocker. Either way they are doing a dangerous disservice to their customers. Quite frankly I would do yourself a favor and just review the manual yourself. It is very clear on what the ballast requirements are for the 120R loader.
 

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I have the cart even though I can’t roll it around. The wood plank floor in my barn has enough gaps between that the wheels are too small and stop dead when I hit a crack.

But even for just storage like I use it it is fantastic when setup with iMatch bushings - just back up to the cart - slide the receiver tube in or out - lower or raise - and off I go.

I can still lift the weights if I have to but it is one of those things that will cause me a couple days of pain afterward.
Stan,

Check the casters on your cart. When I purchased my first cart & weight/receiver, it came with 3" casters, if memory serves me correctly. I didn't notice it right away, but I found I could barely roll it across my concrete floor when loaded. I checked into it and found the caster axle bolt/nut was too tight. I thought I had checked it during assembly, but concluded I must have missed it. So I adjusted it to provide a smooth, unrestricted, rotation of the caster.

A week or so later, I found I could barely roll it across the floor again. Apparently, the axle was spinning with the caster wheel and self tightening. I alerted Greg, at Heavy Hitch, to this and I had already sought out a replacement caster. Greg agreed to extend a credit for the returned casters against my planned purchase of a second cart & weight/receiver in the coming months.

I ordered 8*3PB5BX-TS22 5" casters from Caster City. The carts rolls easily now. The taller caster wheel, 5" vs the 3", would help overcome the gaps in your wood floor.

When I ordered the second cart & weight/receiver months later, I ordered it with a caster delete, as I had ordered casters for it with the replacement caster order. When ordering, Greg confirmed the problem with the 3" casters I had reported. As a result, they were now supplying a different 4" caster with the carts.

If you have the troublesome 3" casters, you may want to reach out to Greg, at Heavy Hitch, about a warranty replacement or a credit towards a replacement.

Here is a photo of one of my carts with the 5" replacement casters:

DSCN0574.JPG

DSCN0575.JPG
 

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Stan,

Check the casters on your cart. When I purchased my first cart & weight/receiver, it came with 3" casters, if memory serves me correctly. I didn't notice it right away, but I found I could barely roll it across my concrete floor when loaded. I checked into it and found the caster axle bolt/nut was too tight. I thought I had checked it during assembly, but concluded I must have missed it. So I adjusted it to provide a smooth, unrestricted, rotation of the caster.

A week or so later, I found I could barely roll it across the floor again. Apparently, the axle was spinning with the caster wheel and self tightening. I alerted Greg, at Heavy Hitch, to this and I had already sought out a replacement caster. Greg agreed to extend a credit for the returned casters against my planned purchase of a second cart & weight/receiver in the coming months.

I ordered 8*3PB5BX-TS22 5" casters from Caster City. The carts rolls easily now. The taller caster wheel, 5" vs the 3", would help overcome the gaps in your wood floor.

When I ordered the second cart & weight/receiver months later, I ordered it with a caster delete, as I had ordered casters for it with the replacement caster order. When ordering, Greg confirmed the problem with the 3" casters I had reported. As a result, they were now supplying a different 4" caster with the carts.

If you have the troublesome 3" casters, you may want to reach out to Greg, at Heavy Hitch, about a warranty replacement or a credit towards a replacement.

Here is a photo of one of my carts with the 5" replacement casters:
Thanks so much for this! I’m going out to the barn in a little bit so will check mine. Also thanks for the link for the casters. Those 5” would certainly solve my issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I see we’re off topic a bit here. I agree and commented I need rear ballast for Loader work.

But back to mowing will the rear ballast increase stability? I would think lower weights (in wheels) would serve me better in this case but if rear hitch ballast will serve both purposes then that’s the way I will go.
 

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First off, if your dealer is telling you that loaded rears are all you'll need well, he shouldn't be selling tractors. :nunu:

Second, if you buy the HH weight bracket, do yourself a HUGE favor and also purchase the hitch/suitcase weight cart. From my experience they should come together, I will get that one day, until then I find myself not using it much because it's a PITA to put the weights on and off every use.
I agree :thumbup1gif:

At my dealership there is a sales guy who six months before was selling used cars and six months before he was selling kitchenware . . . he is the biggest BS and he can't even keep his stories straight

Last fall when I told the manager at the dealership that I did not want to be bothered by BS guy he smiled and said it was the owner's wife's son (from a different marriage??) and that he, the manager, would deal with my requirements :thumbup1gif: :thumbup1gif: :thumbup1gif:
 

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Just posting my opinion if you are tearing up the yard with R4s.

I put HDAPs on before the mowing season and have had zero issues tearing up the lawn even in 2wd up hills. It has been really wet as well so far this year.

Last fall when I got my 1025 with the R4s, I was constantly spinning out and had to be careful on the smallest incline. HDAPs ride and handle so much better.

One note, you can try running your rears at 10-12 psi. That will put more tread contact to the ground and maybe cause less slippage.
Just curious, how do these do with loader / backhoe work? (Can you link to your tires?) I’ve seen sidewall strength similar to R4, but I’m always concerned I’ll squash the tires. I would LOVE some HDAP, I’m just afraid that I’ll lose a bit on the other utility of the machine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I see we’re off topic a bit here. I agree and commented I need rear ballast for Loader work.

But back to mowing will the rear ballast increase stability? I would think lower weights (in wheels) would serve me better in this case but if rear hitch ballast will serve both purposes then that’s the way I will go.
It's a bit of a tricky question. When the loader is attached then yes, 3PH ballast will improve stability by helping to balance the weight between the front and rear axles. When your bucket is empty the tractor is a bit light on the front. Once you have a load in the bucket then things will balance out more. Keep in mind that any weight on the 3PH is supported by the axles.

But for general mowing, you probably won't have the loader installed and in that case loaded tires or wheel weights can add a lot of stability to the tractor because the weight is low to the ground and it is not supported by the axles. Loaded tires/weights can also help to smooth out a rough ride where otherwise you would be bouncing over every little bump in the yard. Other than the potential to leave marks in the yard when the ground is soft there is no disadvantage to loaded tires or a heavy machine in general. Loaded tires also help with traction and side-to-side stability when on a side slope.

That is the reason you typically see a tractor with loaded tires AND 3PH ballast. The loaded tires are in play all the time but you may take the 3PH ballast off and on depending if you are doing loader work.
 

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Just curious, how do these do with loader / backhoe work? (Can you link to your tires?) I’ve seen sidewall strength similar to R4, but I’m always concerned I’ll squash the tires. I would LOVE some HDAP, I’m just afraid that I’ll lose a bit on the other utility of the machine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is the most weight I've had on the loader with no issues. I run 22 psi in the fronts. I think they work better than the R4s. I was digging out for a concrete pad and they did not lose traction where the R4s would have.

Note: The loader height is only for the picture, I'm not driving it like that.

Ok so I had to test the squat on the hdaps with 20psi and a load of about 700lbs on the front (6 - 80# bags, 2 x42lb weights plus the bucket). HDAPs squat pretty good so I would not carry a load over 500lbs with the bucket. I'll swap out to the R4s when I have heavy loader work to do.
 

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