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I thought I would give my 2 cents regarding the OEM 3rd function and Power Beyond install on my new 1025R. I’m anticipating a grapple or 4-in-1 bucket in the future, so I thought I would install them now while the tractor is new and fairly clean. I knew this was going to be a job, but it’s been a little more challenging than I thought for a few reasons. The main one, surprise, suprise, is that mother Deere’s instructions aren’t that clear. That’s been stated here in the past, but coming from the ag side where I haven’t had an issue, I was a little skeptical of the criticism on GTT. Boy, was I wrong! I can’t believe how vague they are in places. Plus, there were multiple brackets and other items, including the foot rest platform, that were not in the instructions to be removed. Trust me, take them off. And, since I was adding the 3rd function and PB, there was a compatibility line that needs to be added between them. They include 3 different “Return” lines in the PB kit, #11216. One line returns to the rock shaft and is used if you’re only installing PB. And there are two compatibility lines. One line returns oil to the independent mower lift valve, and the other line returns oil to the 3rd function EH SCV. Well, JD labeled the two compatibility lines wrong. I fought the “correctly” labeled line for a while. Then, for the heck of it, I tried the compatibility line labeled for the independent lift, and it worked and I had it installed in a couple minutes! So far I’ve spent close to 9 hours on this and I just finished the hydraulic line install and the electrical is all done too. I’m including a few pics just so you can see how much you take off for access. And it’s still “interesting” routing the hydraulic lines.
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I will also be installing the Summit Hydraulics triple rear remote kit along with the Hydrosplus.com High performance kit + High Capacity hydraulic pump. Those will be a breeze compared to this install.
 

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Now that you have done these specific installs, what do you feel is a reasonable estimate of labor hours for a dealer quoting a new customer to perform this same work? Often, people will balk at the total price of parts and labor, but I also think most people significantly under estimate the amount of time it takes to do these jobs correctly. Your pictures show just how involved the process can be.
 
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I was quoted 12 hours of labor for $2200.00 for that install. I understand that labor has costs but a technician at the dealership should have experience and all the proper tools to do it faster than 1 man in a garage reading a vague manual.

Personally I'd still rather do it myself than spend that much money but I work on massive industrial equipment everyday so it looks simple to me.
 

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'20 1025R, 120R, 54D
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I don't see why JD couldn't just plumb out of the main body these necessary lines and plug off for easy later access. During the manufactuing process I bet it wouldn't cost $100 to do this.
It's not the connections... it's routing the lines up, over, and through what's already there. There's very little real estate under those fancy green fenders. ;)
 
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I was quoted 12 hours of labor for $2200.00 for that install. I understand that labor has costs but a technician at the dealership should have experience and all the proper tools to do it faster than 1 man in a garage reading a vague manual.

Personally I'd still rather do it myself than spend that much money but I work on massive industrial equipment everyday so it looks simple to me.
One thing about that, that may be true if said technician only installed third function and power beyond kits all day every day. Some places, like were I work at, techs are working on everything from lawn mowers to full size ag equipment. They might do a kit one day, and may not do another till months later. Also, the kits are different across series, so it does take different times for kits.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Now that you have done these specific installs, what do you feel is a reasonable estimate of labor hours for a dealer quoting a new customer to perform this same work? Often, people will balk at the total price of parts and labor, but I also think most people significantly under estimate the amount of time it takes to do these jobs correctly. Your pictures show just how involved the process can be.
If a tech has experience installing these kits, I would estimate 8 hours for them to install. I believe someone mentioned they were quoted 12 hours for install. That could be reasonable too for a dealer that’s never done one. I’m not sure what one’s local shop labor is, but 8 hours at $120/hour is close to $1000 in labor.
 

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It's not the connections... it's routing the lines up, over, and through what's already there. There's very little real estate under those fancy green fenders. ;)
Exactly! The overall install is not difficult from a technical standpoint. It’s just a giant game of tetris with the hydraulic lines that becomes a time suck.
 

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One thing about that, that may be true if said technician only installed third function and power beyond kits all day every day. Some places, like were I work at, techs are working on everything from lawn mowers to full size ag equipment. They might do a kit one day, and may not do another till months later. Also, the kits are different across series, so it does take different times for kits.
This is very true. I spoke to the tech that prepped my new 1025R. He had just installed the 3rd function (w/o Power Beyond) about a week before. (He gave me a couple pointers which I promptly forgot because I waited a couple weeks before I began my install.) Anyway, it had been close to a year since the last time he installed the kit. They don’t install these kits often enough at dealerships to have a “fast“ install.
 

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I paid 6 hours of setup to have the 3rd SCV, power beyond, and independent mower lift installed on mine. The lift was back ordered and I asked for the other stuff to be done so I could get the tractor sooner. They said no because everything was so intertwined that they only wanted to take it apart once. Luckily it was only an additional week wait.
 

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Sorry about the ^^^ multiple replies. I haven’t figured out the Multi-Quote yet. 😂. Anyway, the hydraulics and electrical are complete. I fired up the tractor and no leaks! That’s always a good feeling and another reason I really like working with o-ring boss seals and o-ring face seals! I waited to finish putting the tractor together as I’m doing a couple other things too. I did get my Summit Hydraulic remote assembled and installed. I still have to do the electrical install.
 

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Now that you have done these specific installs, what do you feel is a reasonable estimate of labor hours for a dealer quoting a new customer to perform this same work? Often, people will balk at the total price of parts and labor, but I also think most people significantly under estimate the amount of time it takes to do these jobs correctly. Your pictures show just how involved the process can be.
I was just going to ask the same thing. A $1000 for install you’ve got to be kidding me the dealer is screwing me! - says a lot of people here. 9 hours of work and it ain’t totally installed? That $1k is looking pretty good to me.
 
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There is one thing I did while I had the foot rest platform off. I greased the driveshaft coming from the engine! Now, why couldn’t Deere put an access door in the driveshaft “hump” of the footrest platform. That would make greasing the joint SO much easier!
 

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The issue of the cost of installing accessories has been a source of spirited discussion that I have had with my local dealer for years. He is good fellow and we enjoy the bantering back and forth so he takes my comments quite well.

Back in 2014 I got one of the first 1026R tractors the dealership sold. So when he quoted me the price to install the auto-connect mower, and the third hydraulic control valve, he cried to me that he had not allowed for the extra time his technician would need as it was the first one he had done on this series tractor.

He cried and cried that installing the two options had actually taken about 5 -6 hours more than he had budgeted for. But I had to remind him that since his dealership owns the service department that the $110 per hour that the service department charges the sales department. So when the sales department gets billed for the work done by the service department to me it looks like the money is just going from one hand to the other. Now, as I told him, if the service work was contracted to an outside enterprise then the $110 hour is a real cost. But since the work stays in house I think the cost is really the technicians wages and benefits.

Of course, his response was that my tractor took a place in the service line that could have otherwise been taken by another customer unrelated to a sale. And I am willing to consider this argument. Of course I reminded him that the purchase took place at a really slow time for the dealership and that there may not have a been a line of customers waiting to spend $110 per hour.

I didn't win the argument but I felt better anyway.
 

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My hydraulic shop said the butt O rings seals are the best seal on the market. Line ferrels and fastners and barrel connectors, flare connectors will hold with proper proper flarring and tightening but there is a skill level in the connections. Butt O rings are fool proof if you don't over tighten. As you know plumbing lines as gone to this on comodes and sinks. But anyway onto the plumbing of hydraulics. My point was having a hydraulic terminal for the outlets. Actually hoses will also work but are bulky...most of the lines on the deere are .40 O.D. or larger. I'm not sure of how many outlets there are off the housing...I know the main line runs to the joy stick with a return to the sump but I think the power beyond comes off another port and ciruclates back in under pressure. I just know a manifold block would be added at little or know cost from the factory...this work at dealer rates may be more for these add ons that the whole labor assy cost of the tractor from the factory...who is the world can afford my of the $110 shop rate as this is 2-3 times more than most make in their own profession or job....I just can't see it...it's almost like the sale of the tractor is the bait and the rest of all this is the meat for the dealer....I know in my budget these are places one might want to avoid like emergency rooms if possible....thank goodness for the KennyD's in the world and the others that help navigate us in this sea of budget decisions....
 

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Anyone else look at those pics and want to be doing this everyday? This looks like fun compared to Diesel mechanics. Must be something wrong with me to think this looks fun. I like taking things apart and improving them, PC's , Cars , Electrical, Plumbing, Tractors Etc. It is almost as much fun as using it when it's done. Always found that the harder and more complicated the job was and more complex the problem solving ...the more satisfying it was. We appreciate the things we work hardest for.

I'll add , that I know very little about hydraulics and their fittings and I want to learn everything about them. I'll pay whatever it costs to have the best fittings. If I actually knew what to order. NPT's seem to suck. The flat faced fittings on the Single Point I installed are great.

I'm guessing a lot of us here are this way...Including the OP. Nice work by the way... (y) (y)
 

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I just got a quote for 4 hours from a shop that has done a bunch of these. The sales guy said “they throw wrenches at us when we sell these, but they’ve gotten pretty good at it”
 

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The butt o-rings or o-ring face seals are awesome! After running that many pre-bent hydraulic lines, I found that many of them didn’t line up ”square”, but as you tighten them up, they square themselves and seal. I finished my hydrosplus.com install on Saturday, and the hydraulics portion of the Summit rear scv install. There were no leaks and I was able to put the fender, seats, etc. back on so I could bring it home. Its a good thing too as we started planting corn yesterday afternoon. Not hitting it real hard as it’s so early. I’m just trying to figure out the switch location for the Summit kit. I’m not sure I want to use the method in the kit.
 
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