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For all you cold weather 105R owners - This will be my first winter using the new 1025r tractor to move driveway snow. Have never owned a diesel engine before and was wondering what I need to prep for when running it in the winter.
It will be stored in a non-heated garage/shed. Temperatures can get very cold -20F from time to time, but usually run +20F - -5F (5F - -25F wind chill) from December to February. Will only be used to remove larger snow falls using a blade, no blower.

Do I need to put a fuel additive in the tank? If so what brand.
It came with an engine heater, assume I plug this in and wait for some time (15 minutes?) then start it
Cover the radiator to control cold air flow?
Battery Tender - keep it plugged in.
Tire Chains, rear only?
Has break-in oil (15 hours on engine), so no plans to change it now

What am I missing?
 

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I keep mine in an unheated (but attached garage) which rarely drops below 35F in the winter.
In addition to using Deere's winter fuel protect from November through March, I've found the
best thing to do with the 1025R is cycle the glow plugs a few times before starting. This
really cuts the shake & smoke at cold start.

I use a slit 5' length of 2" ABS pipe on my rear blade, runs smooth over gravel and asphalt.

Now's a good time to grease everything, before seasonal moisture/salt find their way
onto your driveshafts. Also a good time to check/change the small fuel filter under
your floorboard (though it's likely fine w/just 15 hours on your tractor).
 

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I use a slit 5' length of 2" ABS pipe on my rear blade, runs smooth over gravel and asphalt.
A picture of this would be nice as well as how you hold it on.
 

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Always use fuel additive (all year round). I use PowerService, because I can get it locally, but others such as OptiLube are good as well.

I don't have an engine heater, but in sub zero, I wouldn't hesitate to run it for 30 - 60 minutes. If you can find a timer that will take the wattage, you could use that to program it to turn on an hour before you need it.

As for chains, I don't have a need for them. The 4WD and diff lock are more than enough, so you'll need to test that one based on your needs. Everyone's driveway and driving skills are different. I also grooved my tires which helped tremendously for my work.

I played with covering the radiator with a piece of cardboard, but it was more hassle than it was worth. I had a hole the size of a soup can cut in the cardboard and it did little to increase the temp. After messing with that, I pondered why I did that in the first place. It runs fine and I'm not plowing a mile road, so I just forego messing with it any more.

A picture of this would be nice as well as how you hold it on.
I agree. This could be useful on my front blade as well.
 

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For all you cold weather 105R owners - This will be my first winter using the new 1025r tractor to move driveway snow. Have never owned a diesel engine before and was wondering what I need to prep for when running it in the winter.
It will be stored in a non-heated garage/shed. Temperatures can get very cold -20F from time to time, but usually run +20F - -5F (5F - -25F wind chill) from December to February. Will only be used to remove larger snow falls using a blade, no blower.

Do I need to put a fuel additive in the tank? If so what brand.
It came with an engine heater, assume I plug this in and wait for some time (15 minutes?) then start it
Cover the radiator to control cold air flow?
Battery Tender - keep it plugged in.
Tire Chains, rear only?
Has break-in oil (15 hours on engine), so no plans to change it now

What am I missing?
Stop by Menards and pick up some Howes Diesel Conditioner and Anti-Gel (64 oz.). It's on sale this week for $8.99. I run it all year long and just mix some in the gas can at every fill. One bottle will last a long time.

I typically run my engine heater for 10-15 minutes prior to startup and I cycle the glow plugs a few times. (Turn the ignition on and watch the glow plug symbol on the display. Once it turns off, turn off the key and do it again. On the third time, start the engine.)

I haven't covered my radiator at all and I haven't had any issues.

I bought some tire chains but I actually haven't installed them. Only a couple of times I've had to use the 4wd with my blower. I haven't used a plow on my tractor so someone else can chime in. I believe people with front blades use chains on the front tires too, but I could be mistaken. For ballast I'm using 5 70 pound bags of sand (from Mendards - "Sand in a Tube" for $2-$4) in the ballast box and it has been working great.
 

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I use stanadyne. Im not a fan of power service as you do not want to over dose it. No issues even at -20 with a jd 430.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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I'm in a similar situation and I would emphasize ballast weight over tire chains in your situation. chains are awesome but if your backend is light they're gonna spin and tear up whatever surface they're on.
 

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I bought some tire chains but I actually haven't installed them. Only a couple of times I've had to use the 4wd with my blower. I haven't used a plow on my tractor so someone else can chime in. I believe people with front blades use chains on the front tires too, but I could be mistaken. For ballast I'm using 5 70 pound bags of sand (from Mendards - "Sand in a Tube" for $2-$4) in the ballast box and it has been working great.
I have the 54" blade and use no chains. But, as I stated earlier, my environment is likely different than others. I'd suggest trying without the chains, and only purchase if needed.

I use stanadyne. Im not a fan of power service as you do not want to over dose it. No issues even at -20 with a jd 430.
How is PS any different than others with regards to overusing?

Per directions, I'm supposed to put in 3.2 ounces in a 5 gallon can. I can assure you I'm not accurate to that level and it's likely closer to 3.5.

I don't think you're going to overuse the product unless you're putting in 150% of what's directed. At that point, I question whether one could drive the tractor safely.
 

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I have the 54" blade and use no chains. But, as I stated earlier, my environment is likely different than others. I'd suggest trying without the chains, and only purchase if needed.



How is PS any different than others with regards to overusing?

Per directions, I'm supposed to put in 3.2 ounces in a 5 gallon can. I can assure you I'm not accurate to that level and it's likely closer to 3.5.

I don't think you're going to overuse the product unless you're putting in 150% of what's directed. At that point, I question whether one could drive the tractor safely.
I've always heard it compared to adding K1 to your diesel fuel and if mixed above the recommended dose it can burn up injectors. this is the PS in a white bottle, the diesel kleen is a summer additive and the red bottle is more like alcohol. High pressure common rail systems are more susceptible to this which I don't believe includes any yanmar's

the stanodyne use is much lower too, it recommends 4oz per 30 gallons of fuel and does no harm if run over the recommended dose. I put 1 glug in a 6 gallon can of diesel for exact useage. lol I use maybe 2-16oz bottles a year between my truck and tractor
 

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the stanodyne use is much lower too, it recommends 4oz per 30 gallons of fuel and does no harm if run over the recommended dose. I put 1 glug in a 6 gallon can of diesel for exact useage. lol I use maybe 2-16oz bottles a year between my truck and tractor
Wow... that's even less than the JD Fuel Protect product which is 16 oz/52 gal or 1.5 oz per 5-gallon can.
 

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what am i missing?
Tektite heated cab

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Now that's the ticket... If I ever feel like spending a couple thousand on a cab. until then, I'll settle with my suit and goggles.

Nice cab.
 
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Now that's the ticket... If I ever feel like spending a couple thousand on a cab. until then, I'll settle with my suit and goggles.

Nice cab.
Exactly... what fun is winter without the frost-bitten face, feet and hands? :hide:
 

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Exactly... what fun is winter without the frost-bitten face, feet and hands? :hide:
I dress properly. Im never cold and 1 have zero exposed skin. As long as im not doing it 100 hours a week it works. At -20 i would have my snowmobile helmet on though. It it works in those conditions at 100mph its more then enough for a little nor easter

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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Your not just heating the engine your also warming up the gallons of hydraulic fluid in the transmission and transfer cases. Plan accordingly time wise. Also if you are seriously going to spend some time on a exposed tractor get a heated riding suit or just get a heated work jacket. They make some nice ones that run off cordless drill battery packs.
 

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I've used PS Diesel Fuel Supplement +Cetane Boost | Power Service for the past 10-11 yrs. The other year we was having some temps around -10-20° so I thought I would add extra ...Wrong ,its causes a waxing very close the same as gelled.
So I wrote the manufacturer telling them I was unhappy with their product.

I received a phone call from the company , believe the lady told me she was a chemist. She told me, "no matter how cold never add more than double the dose ,per the instructions on the bottle :dunno: of any of their products."

Have had no problems since doing what I was told
 

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I've used PS Diesel Fuel Supplement +Cetane Boost | Power Service for the past 10-11 yrs. The other year we was having some temps around -10-20° so I thought I would add extra ...Wrong ,its causes a waxing very close the same as gelled.
So I wrote the manufacturer telling them I was unhappy with their product.

I received a phone call from the company , believe the lady told me she was a chemist. She told me, "no matter how cold never add more than double the dose ,per the instructions on the bottle :dunno: of any of their products."

Have had no problems since doing what I was told
While i play chemical/mechanical/electrical engineer 40hrs a week. Its beyond my expertise. Similar to the most complex problems i take the information i get and balance risk i saw no potemtial negitives with stanadyne and ot did not cost more. I will say it stinks worse then diesel if on you and the bolltles leak after opening. I have a small drink cooler i use to store the bottle in my toolbox upright. Im not anti power service but it does scare me.

Seafoam claims to also be safe and i did just feed my truck 24oz straight withould ill effects. I filled the fuel filter when changing hoping to delay injectors in an lb7 at 140k. They are disposable on my truck. Gm retroactively increased the warranty to 10yr/200k/as many sets as you need. my truck has shown signs since i bought it. 20k and 2 years later its no worse but due. Seafoam didnt help or hurt it. I get 18mpg all along. It makes me paranoid and i stayed at holiday inn.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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It seems (seem being the operative word) to me that 15 min of plugged in heater time is not maximizing the benefit of the block heater. I would think you need at least an hour.
 

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My garage is not attached and is unheated, it doesn't do anything except keep it out of the sun and precipitation. its just as cold there as it would be in the driveway
 
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