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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I recently purchased a home on 5 acres with a pond, a creek flowing through and uneven terrain. need some work right away(New lawn, French drains, garden and moving deadwood etc..)
I never owned a tractor before, so naturally I bought a 2017 1025r with loader(120R) and backhoe(260) with 300 hours on it. I paid 16k after taxes(is this a good price?). I have some questions before I pick it up.

  • It is 4 hours away from me and I do not have a trailer. what size trailer should I rent?
  • It did not come with a mower. will any 1025r 60d mower fit? I am looking at around 2k. I thought about buying a small riding mower but chances are for the price it won't cut as well as the 1025. is that an accurate statement?
  • Any regular maintaince needed right way before I start using it?
 

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  • You need a trailer with 2 axles and about 16ft long. The tractor with backhoe is about 15 ft long and weighs nearly 3000 lbs. So get good straps or chains.
  • You can use a 60D or 54D mower deck that is 2019 model or earlier for sure. They changed design in 2020 and I've never seen anyone try a new deck on older machine so not sure if that is possible.
  • A maintenance kit for a 200 hr service would be a good first job. start with all new fluids and filters for everything.
  • Price depends on condition. Some look like new at 300 hours and some look like they've been in a demolition derby. Last year I got a new 2020 1025R TLB for 21k so it looks like you save some money so long as its been well cared for.
  • I don't have an opinion on the mowing quality but maybe someone else will.
 

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2017 1025R TLB - H120 - 260 - 60D
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I use a 16' trailer for my 2017 1025R TLB, but you could probably use a smaller one (14') just to transport back to your home. For regular transport (with loader+backhoe) I recommend 16' (or longer).

I suppose any 60D mower will fit, but if you have drive over MMM lift on the tractor just make sure it will work with it. Also, get the LoadNGo brackets for the 60D, or buy a deck that already has them. They really come in handy.

16K sounds about right.

I would go ahead and do a full 200 hour maintenance on it (oil/fiter, trans/hydraulic oil/filter, coolant flush/fill, grease (greaze) everything); unless you get full maintenance documentation from previous owner.
 

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Ideally 20 ft

60D cost 3k

Lo of better riders out there than a 1025R but it cuts a nice lawn and has diesel power to handle overgrown stuff

Did you buy it from a dealer? If so, they should have done atleast a 200 hr service on it. Read the manual. If you didn’t get one you can download it for free
Make sure you have ballast to run that loader when the backhoe isn’t attatchef
 

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for a trailer just to pick up and take it home check UHAUL. Just don't mention tractor to them. the car haulers run about 55$ per day. you can use their front tie downs but for the rear provide your own.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks like 2 axle 16 ft. long is the way to go. I will get some heavy duty straps.
It is not from a Deere dealer. I will ask them if they did any maintaince but I doubt it.

Thank you for all the suggestions. how much weight should be in the back when working with a loader? and do you guys have the loader on full time even when mowing?
 

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2017 1025R TLB - H120 - 260 - 60D
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Looks like 2 axle 16 ft. long is the way to go. I will get some heavy duty straps.
It is not from a Deere dealer. I will ask them if they did any maintaince but I doubt it.

Thank you for all the suggestions. how much weight should be in the back when working with a loader? and do you guys have the loader on full time even when mowing?
I'm using an iMatch Quick attach with a Heavy Hitch heavy duty offset hitch with 8 42lb weights hanging off of it for whenever I do loader work. I may add some 70lb weights if I feel the need to, but 8 42lb weights seems good for the dirt/gravel/8' logs I've been dealing with.

I have just left the backhoe on for weight sometimes, too :)
 
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2017 1025R TLB - H120 - 260 - 60D
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One more question, Should I tow with Backhoe attached to the tractor or detached?
Attached!!!

With all locking pins in place! And bucket on the deck of the trailer (that goes for loader too).

Actually, i don't think you can put the arm locking pin in AND have the bucket on the trailer deck. So, at least put the swing locking pin (right/left swing) in and put the bucket on the deck. Maybe someone else can chime in on that.
 
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One more question, Should I tow with Backhoe attached to the tractor or detached?
Leave it attached.

Do some research into ALL of the pieces you are going to need to mow. You will likely have $3k plus in everything by time you are done. It's important to make sure you get EVERYTHING needed to hook the mower up and use it as individual brackets and mount pieces can make a "good deal" very expensive if you have to purchase them.

Also, carefully secure the hood with a tie down to make sure it doesn't blow open when hauling. And tie down from the FRAME to the trailer, do NOT tie down from moving pieces.

You also need to secure the backhoe and FEL bucket so they don't move while towing.
 

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Don’t have anything to add for towing it home besides make sure your tow vehicle will support it. Don’t use a Honda Civic.

Also, there is a like new 60D deck for sale here but I don’t know your location. If you are near North Carolina.....
 

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Some mow with the FEL on, many do not. Depends upon the room you have, any weight concerns about damaging the yard, etc.

Rear ballast can be anything which you can lift on the 3ph and secure properly to the 3ph. Some don't like to use the back hoe for rear ballast all of the time as it sticks out and can cause some clearance issues, etc.

Depending upon what you are mowing, I would look carefully at other mowing options before sinking the money into the MMM on the 1 series. You shouldn't do dirt work with the mower on, which means taking it on and off frequently. Some don't mind, some would rather leave their machine with the backhoe and FEL on it and mow with something else.

One thing you will quickly learn about this machine is it provides Lots of options and you need to decide what is best for YOUR needs.

Being the tractor is a 2017, make sure the air cleaner assembly has been upgraded to the non damaging style mounting system. How do you know?

When you open the hood and stand in front of the tractor facing the seat, if the air cleaner canister is oriented front to back and is mounted in a cradle style bracket on the top of the engine, you should immediately replace the air cleaner assembly.

If the air cleaner is mounted to the radiator core support and sits sideways under the front portion of the hood, then it has been upgraded and should be fine. Don't underestimate the importance of this. It can destroy an engine and render the tractor inoperative and cause some significant down time and possible expense.

Read the 1 series air cleaner threads found here on GTT. There is one at the top of the SCUT page about the air cleaner you should review.
 

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Welcome and congrats on the purchase. I would avoid the mower. The tractor is too heavy to be driving on your lawn over and over again. For the price, you're better off buying a standalone machine to mow. You can get a nice mower for the same price as the mower deck and won't be bothered by installing and uninstalling it all the time.
 

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I suppose any 60D mower will fit, but if you have drive over MMM lift on the tractor just make sure it will work with it. Also, get the LoadNGo brackets for the 60D, or buy a deck that already has them. They really come in handy.
Many people suppose any 60D deck will fit. Then they learn some / many don't.

It's very important to always check the serial number of any deck or other implement one is considering putting on any machine before buying anything. We often have threads on GTT where the person who is usually new to a machine will be looking to add a MMM or maybe a front Quik Tach or some other NON 3PH type implement. Some things will fit, some things will NOT fit.

The buyer should begin their search with the knowledge that their machine is considered a Generation 1, 1025r series machine, which would be any machine 2013 - 2017. Those machines 2018 and newer would be considered Generation 2 1025r machines. To further complicate some issues, the machines serial number also can play a role in what fits and what doesn't, as there really are no "model year" tractors, they are all based upon their individual serial number. So there are some machines which were built in late 2017 which share some characteristics of the machines which are shown to be "Generation 2" machines.

Here is a screenshot which shows you the break down on the 1025r machines serial numbers for those which would be Generation 1 and Generation 2 1025r machines.

Rectangle Font Screenshot Number Software


In many cases, the differences are small and not dramatic, but the engine air cleaner mounting system is one of those which is important. As a rule of thumb, those machines in the first generation of 1025r machines need to carefully review their air cleaner mounting system for any signs of failure or damage. Those 1025r machines which are in the second generation of 1 series machines, should all have the proper air cleaner system on them from the factory.

It is worth noting that the 1026R was NEVER a part of this issue nor was the 1023e machines, as their air cleaners, regardless of the actual model year of build, have been of the proper design and mounting throughout the build of these machines.

One should always check their machines serial number against any parts being ordered from Deere to make sure its going to fit their machine. The machine's number is on a plate on the right side lower frame rail on the tractor, mid point between the right front tire and the operators platform on the tractor. It's a good idea to take a picture of your tractor's Serial number and carry it on your phone or with you for easy reference and make sure to check it against the John Deere parts books whenever ordering any parts or looking to purchase items such as the MMM, etc to make sure the items being considered will actually fit the machine.
 

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The search function on this forum works pretty well and will keep you busy for a long time. YouTube has some great content as well. Lean towards watching any video by 'Tractor Time with Tim' or 'Good Works Tractor' if you have limited time. There are other good YouTube channels as well.

You sound like you could do some searching on YouTube specifically on how to tie down this tractor and here on adding a mower deck. Also, learning about the different options for mower deck lift - search Independent Lift.

That said, a 16' dual axel trailer is what I have. With the backhoe, the backhoe frame provides some good mounting points for the rear. As stated, moving parts like the FEL and the backhoe bucket are supposed to be on the deck and the backhoe should probably have a strap. This is required for DOT/commercial drivers and could come with big fines, but depending on where you are and your route home enforcement probably won't pay much attention to you unless you have an accident.

Ballast...you can spend a lot of time here and YouTube looking at ballast suggestions. The only thing I'll say is your backhoe is generally all the ballast you will need if you're doing something where you can keep it on. So, if that's the case you can save some money...for a while at least. But, if you'll be mowing with the tractor you'll probably get tired of taking it on and off. Oh...so you'll probably want to search 'backhoe dolly' too.

I mow with the loader arms on, but I leave the bucket behind and nothing on the rear.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Very good suggestions here. Thank you!
I have been watching some videos. I will change the fluids and check on Air cleaner right away.
 

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Also check the rubber hyrdo lines on the steering cylinder for wear. one of them can rub against the front wheel if its not installed at just right the right angle on the cylinder, or maybe nylon tied up into the frame. Not expensive or hard to change if its worn. Should check all the rubber lines for wear or damage.

Under the front there is a PTO sensor wire. normally it should be tucked up in the frame when not in use for snowblower / brush. What you should not see is the wire hanging with the connector gone. Another dumb little fix.

one of these days soon I'm doing a buying a used tractor video...
 

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Congratulations!

FWIW I was a first time tractor owner last fall. Bought a 2015 1025R with 56 hours, a FEL, drive on MMM, and bagger attachment for the same price. I disconnected the bagger as I have no use for it with my relatively rough grass. I had watched scads of TTWT videos and reviewed info on here. I did the 200 hour service and changed the air filter to the “new” version myself except I couldn’t get the tranny filter off because I couldn’t lower the MMM arms (see my separate earlier post). From all the advice on here, I drop the MMM 99% of the time, and put it on a pallet in my shipping container using those yellow sling straps and those doohickey latches that have a swing gate to securely hold strap, attached to bolt on hooks on bucket to carry it. FTMP in arid eastern MT I only need to mow my 3 acres every 2-3 weeks, and every couple of months I mow a loop in the ditch out to highway and down to son‘s place, so the mower is off far more than on. I did the usual heavy hitch with 8 suitcase weights everyone advocates and a tooth bar for loader. I have a rain check from TSC using their neighbor discount for a box blade and tiller.

I actually purchased a gently used JD lawn tractor to mow with from my BIL at a great price prior to finding the 1025R but donated it to my son. In exchange he watches our place, helped with building shouse, keeps an eye on our share of cattle etc as he lives there full time while I only get to visit when I’m not working in big city.

You will love your 1025R. I have access to much larger green machines but the small 1 series is more versatile for typical hobby farm applications. I myself am fortunate as relatives have dedicated backhoes and excavators and can run them with enough finesse to lift an egg without cracking it, but I bet learning to use a backhoe is fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The way I understood it, the mower deck I am looking at have a serial number that ends in 020989. Does this mean it wont fit my tractor because last 5 of my tractor is in 30000+
He is also giving me the attachments that go on the tractor.
 

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If the deck you buy is AutoConnect, AND IF your tractor has the AutoConnect system installed, removing and installing the deck is a snap. Takes me less than a minute. If no AutoConnect, it's still an easy drive-over process but you'll have to reach under and connect/disconnect the PTO each time.

If you don't want to mow with the loader on, removing/installing the loader is a snap too. Now that being said there's really no reason to remove the whole loader for mowing unless you absolutely need every inch of space possible ahead of the tractor. Instead you can just remove the bucket, it's only held on to the JDQA with 2 lynch pins and takes less than a minute to remove or install.

My 60D cuts just as good as a dedicated lawn tractor.
 
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