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Discussion Starter #1
I am currently looking at a new 1025r w/ FEL and 60"mmm to replace my 425 w/54" deck and Kubota L3130 with FEL and finish mower. I have a couple of questions after speaking with my local JD dealer:

1. The dealer told me that he did NOT recommend the auto connect PTO. He said you have to get off the tractor to attach or remove the deck anyway so what is a couple more seconds to hook/unhook the PTO? He said it is just an expensive pain in the butt. He said it is also very hard to consistently drive over the deck so the auto connect works correctly anyway. I did not even realize the auto connect was an option that could be added/deleted. Anyone have complaints with the auto connect or wish they didn't opt for it?

2. Have the 2015 or 2016 model year units completely addressed the issues with the FEL controls (floppy bucket syndrome, bucket droop, etc.)? I know some of the threads about the issues and fixes were a few years old. Since I am replacing two tractors with one (no backup), I want to make sure I make the right choice.

3. Thoughts on the 3 point iMatch Quick Hitch, worth it, or not?

Thanks in advance. This sight is a terrific source of information.
 

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I bought mine in April and could not be happier. The auto connect works great for me. Only time you have to get off is to flip a little, reachable, level and release the scalping wheels. Driving over is the best. I could not imagine tugging that huge thing from under the tractor not to mention connecting and unconnecting the PTO. FEL for me works great as do the forks that I purchased.

Not sure why the dealer said that. It may take a few tries to get used to it but it was no big deal for me.

I would not get it without the auto-connect. Others here will chime in shortly I am sure. It's what they do. They help others with expert advice.

Enjoy your ride
 

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i love my auto connect. Even if you buy the non-auto connect its still a drive over deck. Be sure and get the H120 loader and not the D120, the quick attach is worth it. i have had mine since august 4 and have had deck off three times just to clean and lube it.:bigthumb:
 

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My opinions are:

1) Yes, auto-connect does save time and hassle of manually connecting the shaft and I would still buy it the 2nd time around. I still get off the tractor after having driven over the deck but before the auto connect engages to check if it will successfully connect. The marketing that JD does implies its drive-over and not even think about it. I believe dealers get a lot of complaining about auto-connect and have become "incentivized" not to recommend it given the support they have to provide on this particular feature.

2) Yes, both years have addressed those the floppy bucket syndrome. I'm less familiar with the droop but if it the question is does the bucket droop over hrs of sitting the answer is yes. In a perfect world with perfect valves it wouldn't but JD doesn't use perfect valves - it is what it is and doesn't matter to me.

3) YES! I answer that as it relates to attaching a detaching a rear ballast box, which I do a lot. I finally bought a quick hitch system the other week. I wish I had bought the quick hitch with the tractor. By the way, you also want a ballast box. Fluid filled tires are not sufficient ballast for the full capacity of the FEL.
 

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1025r

I have had mine for about 12 weeks and have 150 hours on it. My deck was really set up right re: auto connect. The only thing You have to do make sure the scalp wheels are all the way up, lower the deck, get out reach underneath and flip one clip. Then you back out over it and off you go. To reinstall, drive over it wait for the click than lift it with the lever. Not familiar with other setup but I would imagine getting off to flip a clip is no comparison to what's involved with the non auto connect. Dealer might not be setting the decks up right and buy pushing the other version, responsibility for hookup goes to buyer, hence no dealer headache.

They are very sensitive in alignment but mine has been trouble free. The only trouble I had was when practicing putting on the front 54" blower, I had to remove the auto connect to put in longer drive shaft to front blower. There are two"turn buckles", Dealer and I had trouble with the auto connect that delivery day after installing blower. I finally figured out that it was the turn buckles that was spun when we disconnected to install blower. I looked at it, reinstalled after trying a half a turn multiple times and when I nailed it, everything worked perfect again. Thinking of putting some lock tight on the threads or maybe a thin guitar string around the threads on each side and twisting it tight when I set up for winter.

All in all, the auto connect has been great, stop, drop, flip a clip and back out. Reinstall-drive over it and throw the lift lever.
 

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All 1 series decks are drive over and connect to the tractor on their own. The auto connect option is solely to connect or disconnect the PTO shaft to the mower deck. It works well when setup and adjusted correctly, if your dealer is having a lot of problems with them then it may because their techs aren't setting them up properly. You do have to get off the tractor regardless to adjust the gauge wheels.

2: Yes. We haven't seen complaints on the 1025 like we did the older 1026.

3: Yes if you plan to switch implements often.
 

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I'd sure hate to think Deere would spend the countless amount of dollars in advertising for the auto connect feature and make sales on an insane amount of tractors with it for something that would result in pissed off customers and overloaded service departments trying to resolve complaints. I have read threads with writings of issues on it but it seems they were resolved with proper setup and adjustments. I had a kubota with mmm and it SUCKED dragging that freakin deck out from under the tractor and shoving it back under to reattach. The tractor was border line useless with the deck attached when trying to use implements on the 3point so I developed a true hate for the mmm over time with the removal and reattaching of it. Even if the auto connect feature only half a** worked, it's worth it in my opinion to be able to drive over the deck and at least have things close enough to connect it with a little "tinkering".
 

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Your dealers mechanic most have their head up their A$$, or at least your dealer does. Guessing they have had customers complaints for not connecting . Yes it is expensive at first ,found out the hard way for not getting it when I had my 60" deck. I bought it I think 2 or 3 months after getting the tractor and installed it myself. I've had auto connect PTO on two different tractors and only had a problem one time. It was my fault, had a low rear tire on one side and it would not connect.
As for being easy to connect drive shaft yes it is on a 54 deck ,, I found it a pain in the A$$ for the 60" . IMO I do not recommend the 60" if your lawn is sloped. After having 54" decks for close to 10 yrs I was not happy with the 60 till I finally lowered the gauge wheels to either touch a hard surface or about 1/8-1/4" off the surface.

I wen from a early 1026r with problems on FEL to a 1025r no problems in over 260hrs with bucket droop.

IMatch <<<<YES go for it if you connect to rear blade, tiller or other attachments ,,saves the back. To begin with I had a HF for over 8yrs -- 2 yrs ago went with JD ..

Oh buy a steering wheel spinner if you don't already have one. Makes mowing and FEL use IMO a breeze.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My understanding of the "bucket droop" issue is that the bucket or forks would tip down, when loaded, when you went to curl the bucket up. It appears to have been a problem in the loader control valve.

Thanks for the advice on the ballast box. I would definitely fill the rear tires, good to know this is not enough counter weight for the loader though.

Yes, looking at the H120 loader, not the D120.

Sounds like auto connect PTO is a winner, to me.

Appreciate all of the comments!
 

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I downgraded from 2 tractors to 1 this year. I had a JD 1026R & a JD 4120. I now have a 2025R.

I had the 1026R 4 years & 240 hours. I never had any problem with the auto connect PTO.

I had the bucket problems on the 1026R, dealer took care of it. I would hope that Deere solved the problem on the newer models.

I would not have a tractor without an 3 point quick hitch.
 

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My understanding of the "bucket droop" issue is that the bucket or forks would tip down, when loaded, when you went to curl the bucket up. It appears to have been a problem in the loader control valve.

Thanks for the advice on the ballast box. I would definitely fill the rear tires, good to know this is not enough counter weight for the loader though.

Yes, looking at the H120 loader, not the D120.

Sounds like auto connect PTO is a winner, to me.

Appreciate all of the comments!
Told you you would get expert advice here.
 

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I have had my 1025r since June. To be honest, I had buyers remorse at first. At first I thought, why did I spend this much on a tractor. Now, I would do it all over again. The stuff these 1 series tractors can do is impressive. Now to your questions:

1. The Auto Connect requires a dealer that has techs that know what they are doing and care about what they do. My dealer had the tech that prepped my machine deliver it. This puts the tech in front of the customer and not just pushing it out with a salesman. I felt like there was a little more accountability doing it that way. My guess is most Auto Connect issues result when operators activate the mower deck at 3000 rpms forgetting to turn it down. That has to put incredible stress on the system. Find a new dealer that is good at it and get the Auto Connect deck.

2. Floppy Bucket. I have not noticed this on my 1025r. I wish the bucket would dump and move at that same time, other than that, it works great.

3. DO NOT buy a tractor without either an iMatch or similiar. Whether you buy a green one or another brand, they make a huge difference.

Be prepared to want every 3pt hitch attachment known to man once you bring one of these home. It becomes a sickness!
 

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Got my 1025R TLB in July. Have the 60D MMM with auto connect. No issues since delivery.

1) The Auto-Connect works flawlessly for me, I've had the mower off and on over a dozen times on my concrete garage floor. Just follow the install instructions in the Manual and you can put the deck on/off in about 2-3 minutes, tops.

2) Loader works fine, no problem there. At about 2600 rpm and up, I can make it dump and move simultaneously. Took a bit to develop the right touch on the stick. I aways park mine with the bucket on the ground. My BH stabilizers will leak down over time (several days), which is 'normal' from what I understand.

3) I initially bought only the BH and box blade so I didn't get an imatch. Now that I have a leaf vac and I'm planning on a landscape rake, the iMatch will be ordered too.​


As others have said, I would be worried about a dealer that is steering you away from the autoconnect PTO. If their techs know what they are doing, there shouldn't be any issues. I will also point out the 60" deck is more prone to scalping if your property is very hilly or you will be mowing across the slope. It's a big heavy deck. Most of this can be overcome by proper adjustment of the deck and gauge wheels.


Good luck.
 

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I had a 455 with 54" deck before and now a 1025 with 54" auto connect deck. I wouldn't go back to a slide out deck or a deck where I have to manually connect the PTO. The drive over deck is a game changer for easily removing / attaching the deck. When its adjusted right it connects every time. No need to do get all dirty / greasy reconnecting the PTO shaft.

The only issue I've had is driving over the deck on a smooth concrete surface as the deck likes to slide. The one time my front wheels were slowly coming down off the deck to reconnect and the deck spun almost 45 degrees sideways in a split second. What a pain that was and I ended up jacking up the tractor to get the deck repositioned.
 

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I bought my 1025 TLB / MMD autoconnect in Sept 2014 - I absolutely love the auto connect deck. They are kinda right you have to get off the tractor to flip one small lever and then its off. As for driving on yes the first few times it was difficult for me but after I knew where I had to be its a breeze. If I had it too do over I'd pay for the over priced crap again. Its worth it in my eyes.
Secondly I didn't get the I-match for the 1025 but I did for my 3039 and wow what a difference. Its back up flip a lever and move on. For the price it will make your life simpler with I-match.

Bottom line I'd say buy both but it also sounds to me that your dealer possibly don't know how to properly adjust the auto connect. :dunno:

Good luck in your decision - it wont be the wrong one.
 

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Get what you think you want. Work with it, learn all about it and you're going to love it for the ease of use. If you don't get the auto connect you will have to lay down to hook up the PTO shaft for the deck. Why get a drive over deck when you still have to lay down to hook it up? When I was younger that wasn't a problem. I could still do it but the question is, WHY? When I go to buy something with this kind of price tag I do my home work and end up knowing more then the salesperson. I then ask questions I need answered and usually the salesperson doesn't know the answer so I get what I want and not what someone else wants and then learn about it in other ways. Usually by using that equipment. Don't be one of those people that buys because what a salesperson said and later regret it. Like I said, get what you think you want and what works for you. Not some salesperson's sales pitch. Think long term because this will last a long time.
 

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I am currently looking at a new 1025r w/ FEL and 60"mmm to replace my 425 w/54" deck and Kubota L3130 with FEL and finish mower. I have a couple of questions after speaking with my local JD dealer:

1. The dealer told me that he did NOT recommend the auto connect PTO. He said you have to get off the tractor to attach or remove the deck anyway so what is a couple more seconds to hook/unhook the PTO? He said it is just an expensive pain in the butt. He said it is also very hard to consistently drive over the deck so the auto connect works correctly anyway. I did not even realize the auto connect was an option that could be added/deleted. Anyone have complaints with the auto connect or wish they didn't opt for it?

I would not have anything else. It is so easy if the deck is set up properly. You still have to get off the tractor when installing the deck for the latch and the wheels. I drive over my deck, then the last couple of inches I get off and roll the tractor forward by hand and watch the latch engage and lock. Then, lock the anti-scalp wheels to their proper setting.


2. Have the 2015 or 2016 model year units completely addressed the issues with the FEL controls (floppy bucket syndrome, bucket droop, etc.)? I know some of the threads about the issues and fixes were a few years old. Since I am replacing two tractors with one (no backup), I want to make sure I make the right choice.

I have the floppy bucket, but not the bucket droop. I never took it in for that problem because it is really not an issue for me.

3. Thoughts on the 3 point iMatch Quick Hitch, worth it, or not?

I don't have one simply because I do not have a lot of attachments. If I did I would definitely have the iMatch.

Thanks in advance. This sight is a terrific source of information.
.....
 

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Firstly, all decks (both of them :laugh:) are "Auto Connect". Deere did not do such a great job naming their features IMO - "Mechanical Lift" being another example. What you are referring to is the Auto Connect PTO. I recommend it. I think the bad experiences with it are due to setup issues. If it is set up correctly it works great. It also can't be that hard to set up - I installed it myself and have had literally, a 100% success rate in connecting the deck. If the dealer is recommending against it, I think that says something about the competence of their set-up crew.

The best thing to do in my opinion is to purchase the deck, mechanical lift attaching parts and the auto connect PTO parts - and install it all yourself. You'll save a couple hundred dollars in labor fees but more importantly, you will fully understand how it all works and will be able to troubleshoot on your own if problems arise in the future. Also, you will not be under time constraints to get the job done quickly and will probably do a better job than the guys at the shop. This is assuming of course that you know your way around basic tools. If not, then you are at the mercy of the shop. There is an excellent thread here that details how to set up the deck.
 

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I know opinions will always vary... but I wouldn't waste money and effort on setting up the PTO auto connect. I didn't bother with it, and it takes literally 15 seconds to manually slide the driveshaft onto the mid pto. Simpler and less components to wear or break, No set up frustrations, and no disintegrated u joints which seems to happen more often than I'd gamble on with the auto connect. Sorry autoconnect fans...
 

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I have the auto connect, have never taken it off. You must be parked on level surface so everything lines up to mount.


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