If you know how to plow snow with the truck, you can certainly plow snow with the tractor. Yes, having the cab is nice, especially if you spend a lot of time on the tractor. I plow more than a half mile of private roads which is 33' wide and nearly 20 residential driveways in our neighborhood. We get more than 100" of snow a year, living in a lake effect snow area.
If you have a stone or other aggregate type driveway, i can understand why you would want the plow instead of a blower. Running the blower with any type of stone driveway and your going to need a rotary broom in the spring to put all the rocks back in your driveway.
Make sure your plow has the rubber squeegee on the bottom of the plow, John Deere actually calls the metal plow edge "a Strap". You mount the rubber plow edge UNDER the strap and if necessary, you can flip the squeegee mid season. The rubber plow edge / squeegee allows you to push snow onto the lawn or other surfaces such as grass without peeling the sod. Plus, the rubber plow edge wears well, takes the banging out of when you drop the blade on the surface and it provides a very nice clean finish when used on a solid surface such as asphalt or concrete.
I have been plowing snow for 25 years, first with my 455 diesel and the last season, with my 1025r. I have plowed single snowfall amounts of up to 29". Yes, it took some time, but it did for everyone dealing with that much snow. Last year we had enough snowfall (3" or more per snowfall) I had to plow 45 times. The blower goes too slow for my taste, plus if you have stone or aggregate, it will machine gun driveway material all over the lawn and everywhere else. That means it will beat the snot out of the blower chute among other things. Also, the blower will have to be run with the shoes down, which means it packs down the snow and ice under the blower which can leave you with a skating rink for a driveway.
Just like anything, if you plan ahead and work the plan, you won't run out of places to put the snow. If the piles get too close, I push them back with the tractor and plow blade, or I can put the FEL on it and move them that way. Last winter, twice I had to move the piles in the cul-de-sac from plowing the streets and the piles in one neighbors driveway who has a very tough driveway to plow. If you plan on where you are going to start piling the snow and always leave yourself room, its not an issue. If you plow every time right to the edge of the driveway, of course you will run out of places to push snow.
Plowing is much faster than running the blower. Your tractor can easily push a 6' blade (or even larger). Be careful using the
snow pushers as not having the ability to angle the blade REALLY DOES limit your ability to push snow and pile it as you are always moving ALL OF THE PILES, instead of angling the plow and pushing it off to the side when plowing.
Depending where you plow and your equipment, you can either use the Quick Attach for the front like you mentioned or you can go with a loader mounted plow system. Personally, I don't like having the snow blade out front of the loader arms. But if you do use the loader mounted plow system, make sure you have the ability to lift the plow and to angle it. Plowing without the ability to deflect the snow off to the side means you waste a lot of time pushing piles of snow around.
I have the blade, the blower and the Rotary Broom. The order I prefer to use them is in that order. I use the plow 99% of the time. If we are going to be getting a very wet heavy snow, it means I don't wait until the storm is over to plow. Also, make sure you push the wet heavy snow BACK further than the edge of the driveway as it will freeze and then it's more difficult to move. Plan ahead and you can plow a lot of snow and not run out of places to push it.
My next choice is to use the Blower. Last year, I never used it, despite having well over 100" (I think our total was 146" if I recall). I do NOT clear driveways with the blower, it's too slow. I have 17 driveways to plow plus 1/2 mile of private roads which are 33' wide and the cul de sacs are 90'+ in diameter. It takes me about 3 hours to plow those, with the blower, it would be probably be at least 4.5 hours or more.
Last year, I put the FEL on to move snow piles twice. Here is a picture when I was moving some of the snow piles in a couple of locations, such as tight corners, parking areas. You can see the plow piled it pretty high. The neighbor has a water fountain and several other things which prevent snow from being here and there.
Here is another picture of snow piles with the plow, note the neighbor behind the snow pile on the roof. He was 14' in the air.
Here is a picture of my tractor and plow and rear carry all set up for plowing.
These are the following CRITICAL REQUIREMENTS for plowing successfully with the 1025R.
1. - A plow at least 6' wide. My plow is 7'3" wide (87" wide). It was made from welding two of the 54" plows together after cutting out the center section of one plow and adding those pieces to another plow. This plow works extremely well when the tractor is set up correctly.
I would suggest at least a 6' wide plow. The 54" plow on the 1 series is like shoveling snow with a soup spoon. It simply takes far too long and the machine can handle more, much more, if the operator pays attention and uses common sense and knows how to plow snow.
2. - Make sure your plow has hydraulic angling capabilities. It's absolutely necessary. Manual angling means getting on and off the tractor and that means you angle less than you should or more than you need. Regardless of the plow you select,
make SURE you can angle it hydraulically.
3. - The plow has the
top roller flap which is CRITICAL for handling a lot of snow and for "Rolling" the snow off the plow when angled. I can "throw snow" off the end of the plow which will clear the typical mailbox when plowing along the road. This top roller flap prevents the snow from going over the plow, plus it permits the snow to be thrown over the bank when plowing. Since you have plowed with a pickup, you know the importance of the top roller flap on the plow. Too stiff and it won't roll the snow. Too flimsy and the snow will push right over the blade and act like a giant snow pusher, which you don't want.
4. - Rubber plow edge, which I covered earlier in the post.
5. - At least
500 pounds of rear ballast weight. This makes plowing snow so much easier. I don't even use tire chains or any rear wheel weights. I carry a Honda walk behind snow blower on the platform for some sidewalks and along some garage doors in extreme circumstances. Normally, I back drag from the garage doors. I also carry at least 200 pounds of the total in snow melt in 5 gallon buckets. Some driveways I plow the homeowner wants the drive or walk or both to have snow melt applied.
With these 5 things, you can plow snow very well with the 1025R. Will it be as handy as your truck? No. Will it be as warm as your truck? Not without some type of enclosure and heater. You don't have go with the Mauser cab, but sure am glad I did. There are other enclosures which help keep the wind off of you. Get whatever fits your needs and budget. I would recommend a hydronic heater, not any electric one as the alternator on the tractor will be worked hard with the electric heater.
Bottom line, you can plow a lot of snow with the tractor if it is set up correctly. There are a lot of options. Plowing snow with the tractor is not going to be like plowing snow with your truck. But if you don't want to have the blade on your truck and putting it on and taking it off is not a practical option, then perhaps plowing with your tractor is the anwer.
At a minimum, get the blade extension wings as the 54" blade is so slow compared to the machines actual capabilites. Make sure you have plenty of rear weight for balance and for traction. Plan ahead and you will be fine.