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Recently purchased a 1025R and adding a ROPS light, The 2 bullet connectors at the bottom rear of the ROPS are purple and black in color, which is positive and which is negative?
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Sprout
I just went through this about 6 months ago, I believe it is the purple but a test light will get you there.
 
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I just went through this about 6 months ago, I believe it is the purple but a test light will get you there.
If you are installing the JD halogen work lights it doesn't matter. If you are installing your own LEDs it does matter. You definitely want to verify everything with a meter. When hooking up my LED lights I found on the one side purple was ground and on the other side black was ground. Go figure.
 

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If you are installing the JD halogen work lights it doesn't matter. If you are installing your own LEDs it does matter. You definitely want to verify everything with a meter. When hooking up my LED lights I found on the one side purple was ground and on the other side black was ground. Go figure.
This is good to know, I have halogens on now but getting ready to put LEDs on it.
 
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I want to add lights to the roof of my OTC. Does anyone know what the total amp draw you can put on that lead is?
 
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I want to add lights to the roof of my OTC. Does anyone know what the total amp draw you can put on that lead is?
I'd guess about 10 amps since JD offers two 55 watt lights to plug into that circuit, BUT I'd wire up an separate circuit so you can have independent control over them without having to have the headlights (or other lights) on.
 

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I'd guess about 10 amps since JD offers two 55 watt lights to plug into that circuit, BUT I'd wire up an separate circuit so you can have independent control over them without having to have the headlights (or other lights) on.
I agree Kenny about the separate circuit, you can’t have your flashers and work lights on together. However, the circuit is designed for 3-50 watt lights, two forward and one back, if you buy the whole kit from JD.


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Recently purchased a 1025R and adding a ROPS light, The 2 bullet connectors at the bottom rear of the ROPS are purple and black in color, which is positive and which is negative?
Thanks
Sprout
I'm not positive but I would think black is ground? Can you try using a test light? I'm sorry I couldn't help more.

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Did some reading in my OM, the work lights on a 1 series are on a 20 amp circuit so from there putting lights on is basic math so you don’t overload the circuit.


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Recently purchased a 1025R and adding a ROPS light, The 2 bullet connectors at the bottom rear of the ROPS are purple and black in color, which is positive and which is negative?
Thanks
Sprout
Black is negative (ground) and purple is positive.
 

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Black is negative (ground) and purple is positive.
Not always. One pair of my wires was black/negative and the other pair was purple/negative. The halogen lights didn't care but when I installed LED lights it was a problem. Best advice is to always verify the polarity before making permanent connections.
 
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I'd be more inclined to believe that one of your LED lamps was mis-wired.
No... it was the harness. When the one light didn't work I checked the harness with a voltmeter and discovered JD had installed the one branch wire pair backwards. I resoldered the connectors on the lights to match.
 

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I want to add lights to the roof of my OTC. Does anyone know what the total amp draw you can put on that lead is?
The work lights on the 1 series is 20 amp.


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I have a 2016 1025R. I’ve looked for these purple/black wires with bullet connectors, but I can’t locate them. I see purple/black wires in the rear of the tractor, but they’re terminated in connectors for wiring to the fender-mounted work lights.

Can someone give me a better idea of where these wires are supposed to be, or maybe post a picture of where they’re located?
 

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I have a 2016 1025R. I’ve looked for these purple/black wires with bullet connectors, but I can’t locate them. I see purple/black wires in the rear of the tractor, but they’re terminated in connectors for wiring to the fender-mounted work lights.

Can someone give me a better idea of where these wires are supposed to be, or maybe post a picture of where they’re located?
They do tend to be hidden. I can't recall, but they maybe taped around the split loom, where they exit. Locate the split loom, along the rear of the frame rail, by following the tail lamp wires down to it. They should exit the frame rail split loom and be just an inch or so beyond the end of it.

The photo below depicts where they exit on the left side. I cut off the bullet connectors as well as the tail lamp connectors and replaced them with the 6-circuit Metri-Pack connector depicted in the photo. I have a Cozy Cab in which the tail and work lamps are re-located to. I remove the cab in the summer and I desired a convenient method to disconnect the wiring when doing so as well as a method to close/seal the connector (to protect from corrosion/dirt abrasion) by installing a closure plug. The 2-circuit connector just above the 6-circuit I added I beleive is the harness that serves the fender mounted worklights.

Auto part Engine Fuel line Automotive engine part Vehicle
 
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1025r with Mauser cab.
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They do tend to be hidden. I can't recall, but they maybe taped around the split loom, where they exit. Locate the split loom, along the rear of the frame rail, by following the tail lamp wires down to it. They should exit the frame rail split loom and be just an inch or so beyond the end of it.

The photo below depicts where they exit on the left side. I cut off the bullet connectors as well as the tail lamp connectors and replaced them with the 6-circuit Metri-Pack connector depicted in the photo. I have a Cozy Cab in which the tail and work lamps are re-located to. I remove the cab in the summer and I desired a convenient method to disconnect the wiring when doing so as well as a method to close/seal the connector (to protect from corrosion/dirt abrasion) by installing a closure plug. The 2-circuit connector just above the 6-circuit I added I beleive is the harness that serves the fender mounted worklights.


You can tell by Martincom's attention to detail and quality of work, that he did professional wiring installations of 12 volt accessories in emergency vehicles where they have to work every time.......and no wonder you were successful. It's nice to see things done correctly verses what is too often found.
 

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Bear in mind that when various mfgrs list the wattage for an LED lamp, they are referring to the lumen output equivalency expressed in watts. IOW, an LED that is listed as 60 watts will put out the light equivalent of a 60 watt incandescent, but may only draw a fraction of that 60 watts of power.
 
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