Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 20 of 45 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,142 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys How important is the Battery vent on the 22NF battery versus a 51r For the longevity of the radiator due to the air pulling over the battery before going through the radiator. Anyone have any real experience with that being an issue ?
That seems to be the only real difference between A22NF in a 51r.
Seems to me that a exide battery or Napa battery would be a good replacement.

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,374 Posts
It’s necessary to help avoid possible corrosion from gases. I had noticed mine was missing from my brand new rig at the time. I got the size from a guy here and put it in. I would like to know the proper routing of the hose. Mine is attached to battery on negative side and I put thru an existing hole on that same side. I think it’s suppose to be run from that vent to a hole with some other hoses on the opposite side. I wish I could find a pic of the hose installed the proper way.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,160 Posts
Don, the original and replacement Deere batteries have a vent on each side. One gets capped off, the other gets the hose and the hose gets routed through the battery tray to exit below it. It doesn't matter which side. It's merely to get the gases into an area with more fresh air to be able to dissipate better. Not going through the radiator is a good thing too.

JD 1025, many have reported using a 51r battery, but I don't recall anyone ever mentioning ill effects from it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Firemark

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,142 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Don, the original and replacement Deere batteries have a vent on each side. One gets capped off, the other gets the hose and the hose gets routed through the battery tray to exit below it. It doesn't matter which side. It's merely to get the gases into an area with more fresh air to be able to dissipate better. Not going through the radiator is a good thing too.

JD 1025, many have reported using a 51r battery, but I don't recall anyone ever mentioning ill effects from it.
I am wondering if it is not so much gasses rather than potential boil overs?

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,160 Posts
Possibly some. But boil overs are rare anymore. Not to say it can't happen but it doesn't happen as often as it did 30 to 40 years ago. But every wet cell battery needs to vent during charging.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Firemark

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
Interesting question, thanks for asking it. I replaced my battery this year and there was no vent hose, nor evidence of one. Sounds like it may be a good idea. The parts diagram does show one. Seems oval shape.

If anyone can answer the question @Firemark asked about how to properly route it, that would be great.

761978
 
  • Like
Reactions: Firemark

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
It’s necessary to help avoid possible corrosion from gases. I had noticed mine was missing from my brand new rig at the time. I got the size from a guy here and put it in. I would like to know the proper routing of the hose. Mine is attached to battery on negative side and I put thru an existing hole on that same side. I think it’s suppose to be run from that vent to a hole with some other hoses on the opposite side. I wish I could find a pic of the hose installed the proper way.
761980

Here is the battery vent hose on my 2020 1025r
 
  • Like
Reactions: Firemark

·
Registered
Joined
·
596 Posts
Interesting question, thanks for asking it. I replaced my battery this year and there was no vent hose, nor evidence of one. Sounds like it may be a good idea. The parts diagram does show one. Seems oval shape.
The battery connection is oval shaped but the hose is a flexible round tube. The tube extends thru the hole in the bottom plate.

A few months ago the battery in my 4200 bit the dust. It was on a Saturday afternoon and my dealer was not open. I went to Advance Auto Parts and bought a Diehard battery. It does not have a vent connection.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,160 Posts
Interesting question, thanks for asking it. I replaced my battery this year and there was no vent hose, nor evidence of one. Sounds like it may be a good idea. The parts diagram does show one. Seems oval shape.

If anyone can answer the question @Firemark asked about how to properly route it, that would be great.

View attachment 761978
The vent on the battery is oval shaped. Any hose that's flexible enough that fits will work.

And I did answer Firemark's question. At least I thought I did. The hose gets routed through the battery tray. It just needs to exit the space.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Firemark

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,374 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: kylew and MKE-1025r

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,658 Posts
Some points about the battery vent hose and cap.....

Keep the cap from your old battery and use the old vent hose with the new battery, just to be safe. The new battery did NOT come with a vent cap on either side.

Also, I suggest blowing compressed air through the vent hose as they are often plugged from dirt and dust from mowing, even with the rear Frontier RC2048 rear mower, as I don't have a MMM. The low pressure air will make sure the vent hose is cleared.

If there was enough of an interest by the Deere engineers to include the vent hose and opposite side vent hose cap, I think they should be used on the tractor with replacement batteries as well.

Changing the battery in the 1 series is tougher than many due to its location. If the tractor has a cab, its even harder due to the washer tank and other items. I did write a thread about the battery change so Advanced Search for it for the details.


You have to remove at least one head light assembly and I show the short cut for doing it and you have to rotate the battery and reposition it as you lift it out of the belly of the beast. Wear gloves so you don't lose the grip on the battery as once you start to lift it, you need to do what's necessary to get it out all of the way as you lift it.

When you are replacing the battery, take a look at this picture of the location of the battery on the RK 24 hp Tractors. Their hood hinges at the back and lifts the entire assembly, instead of having the side panels. The batteries are in the exact same place, but the engineering of the hood and front panels couldn't be more different. Also, note the location of an an auxuillary fuel filter and separator on this other tractor. Now, there is another good idea....Look at the support cylinders holding the hood assembly up. Also, they have a nice hood release mechanism and include the horn as standard equipment. Just sort of interesting..

But also note where Yanmar is STILL putting the air cleaner on the same engine as is used in the Deere 1025r. Yes, the air cleaner is still on top of the engine, as it was on the Deere tractors 1025r from 2013 to 2018. Just FYI, the 1023e and the 1026r NEVER put the air cleaner in that location, as it was on the 1025r until relocated to the radiator core support during the 2018 year.

Now that you have replaced the battery in the 1025r, you will appreciate the ease of access shown in this photo of the tractor made by TyM out of Korea.

761981
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,160 Posts
My new battery came with a new cap on the left side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
@MKE-1025r Thanks for the picture.
@farmer52 Thanks for the explanation too.
@kylew My bad, you did answer it. So many posts on here, I have no idea how you keep up with them all.
@SulleyBear Thanks for the detailed post.

For what it's worth, my dealer had a lower price on a Deere battery than I could get an equivalent 51R. I say equivalent cause there are less expensive 51r batteries, but the Deere one is dry cell. (Is that the right term?). When I looked for a Diehard or NAPA that was the same technology as the Deere, it was $30-50 more than getting one from my dealer. I think mine was $111 with the core exchange.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SulleyBear

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,374 Posts
Some points about the battery vent hose and cap.....

Keep the cap from your old battery and use the old vent hose with the new battery, just to be safe. The new battery did NOT come with a vent cap on either side.

Also, I suggest blowing compressed air through the vent hose as they are often plugged from dirt and dust from mowing, even with the rear Frontier RC2048 rear mower, as I don't have a MMM. The low pressure air will make sure the vent hose is cleared.

If there was enough of an interest by the Deere engineers to include the vent hose and opposite side vent hose cap, I think they should be used on the tractor with replacement batteries as well.

Changing the battery in the 1 series is tougher than many due to its location. If the tractor has a cab, its even harder due to the washer tank and other items. I did write a thread about the battery change so Advanced Search for it for the details.


You have to remove at least one head light assembly and I show the short cut for doing it and you have to rotate the battery and reposition it as you lift it out of the belly of the beast. Wear gloves so you don't lose the grip on the battery as once you start to lift it, you need to do what's necessary to get it out all of the way as you lift it.

When you are replacing the battery, take a look at this picture of the location of the battery on the RK 24 hp Tractors. Their hood hinges at the back and lifts the entire assembly, instead of having the side panels. The batteries are in the exact same place, but the engineering of the hood and front panels couldn't be more different. Also, note the location of an an auxuillary fuel filter and separator on this other tractor. Now, there is another good idea....Look at the support cylinders holding the hood assembly up. Also, they have a nice hood release mechanism and include the horn as standard equipment. Just sort of interesting..

But also note where Yanmar is STILL putting the air cleaner on the same engine as is used in the Deere 1025r. Yes, the air cleaner is still on top of the engine, as it was on the Deere tractors 1025r from 2013 to 2018. Just FYI, the 1023e and the 1026r NEVER put the air cleaner in that location, as it was on the 1025r until relocated to the radiator core support during the 2018 year.

Now that you have replaced the battery in the 1025r, you will appreciate the ease of access shown in this photo of the tractor made by TyM out of Korea.

View attachment 761981
I did read your post and it’s a good post. Because of read it, I took the vent cap off the old battery before returning it as the, “core”. I haven’t found anything to remove the posts that are left after light removal. Wonder if an ignition wrench will fit that torks, stud? It was a real tight squeeze getting it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
My new battery came with a new cap on the left side.
Both sides of mine look the same. I don't think I have a cap. So one side (positive) should be capped and the negative gets the hose down through the hole, right?
Negative side:
761987


Positive side:
761988
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,160 Posts
For what it's worth, my dealer had a lower price on a Deere battery than I could get an equivalent 51R. I say equivalent cause there are less expensive 51r batteries, but the Deere one is dry cell. (Is that the right term?). When I looked for a Diehard or NAPA that was the same technology as the Deere, it was $30-50 more than getting one from my dealer. I think mine was $111 with the core exchange.
Deere offers the battery in both 'dry charged' and 'wet charged'. Dry charged means it is shipped to the dealer without battery acid in it. The dealer adds the acid at the time of sale. Wet charged means the dealer receives the battery with acid already in it. For some reason, the price of the dry battery is about $25-30 more than the wet battery.

$111 with tax is roughly what I just spent for mine about 2 weeks ago at my dealer, core exchanged. (wet charged)

I see a lot of people complain about Deere's prices, and then when they need a battery they automatically assume that getting a NAPA, or other battery is going to be better and less expensive. Reality-based posts here has shown that isn't necessarily the case. Typically the Deere battery ends up being less expensive, has more cold-cranking amps, and is built to endure the vibrations and rough terrain these tractors are subjected to. The only battery I recall that surpasses the Deere battery possibly is the Optima AGM battery. But it's also at least twice the price.
 
  • Like
Reactions: arlen

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,160 Posts
Scott, I don't reconize those vent ports. Do you have the part number that you bought?

The dry charged should be TY26498. The wet charged is TY26498A.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,160 Posts
Yes, the negative side (right side of the machine) has the hole in the battery tray for the hose to exit through.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
"AGM". That's it, thanks @kylew. Absorbent Glass Mat battery. The Deere battery has 500 CCA and most of the 51r type didn't have the same CCA that I found. They were in the 400's at best. Funny thing is my Honda CRV uses the 51r so in a dire emergency, I could always grab that battery.

Hmmm. I gave the dealer part number LVA15187, but I see my invoice says TY26498A with a description of Wet Charged Bat. Thus I guess I don't have the AGM as I thought.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kylew

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,160 Posts
Yes, the TY26498A would be about the price you paid, and no it's not a AGM battery.

Yes you should be able to use the Deere battery in your Honda, or vice versa.

I just had an eureka moment. The pictures of your battery vents....I thought those were pictures looking down at the top of the battery. They're looking at the side of the battery !! Yes, they are correct. Stop into your dealer and see if you can get your old cap back, put it on the left side. Put the hose on the right and route it through the tray and you'll be good to go.
 
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
Top