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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2016 1025r tlb with a 60 inch autoconnect deck. I’ve been doing some work with my 4ft box blade and the rockshaft lever got real easy to move and it won’t hold the box blade. I’ll pick the blade up and drive the tractor a little ways and all of a sudden the blade is dragging the ground. It will hold it if setting still. I checked the hydraulic fluid and it’s full. It never used to do this, does anyone have any idea what’s wrong?
 

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Try tghtening (just slightly) the 16mm bolt at the base of the lever. You can reach it with a 16mm socket on a foot or so long extension. It is on the right side of the tractor at about the 1 o'clock position of the edge of the rear tire, looking at it from the right side. Aim just slightly down and you should be able to get to the bolt without needing any sort of swivel connector. There is not a lot of movement of the bolt between what you are seeing, just right, and locking the movement completely.
 

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Just tighten the bolt a small amount then test. It only needs to be tight enough to hold the lever from moving ...
Over tightening makes the lever too stiff to work smoothly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just tighten the bolt a small amount then test. It only needs to be tight enough to hold the lever from moving ...
Over tightening makes the lever too stiff to work smoothly.
Thanks it worked.
 

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Just what the Doctor ordered! Do you think if I called the dealership, they would have told me how to adjust it?
No way, it's a repair that requires a trained technician using a wrench with a torque setting of 55 N-m. This is per per the Technical Manual, TM126919, Section 70, Group 10, Pages 31-75. They would replace the 4 stacked friction washers, in a double opposed stack, and align the feedback shaft and control arm marks before tightening the nut to specification. And of course, the wheel and fender are removed for access.

That's the beauty of GTT. I learned the quick fix here, and then had an opportunity to pass it on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No way, it's a repair that requires a trained technician using a wrench with a torque setting of 55 N-m. This is per per the Technical Manual, TM126919, Section 70, Group 10, Pages 31-75. They would replace the 4 stacked friction washers, in a double opposed stack, and align the feedback shaft and control arm marks before tightening the nut to specification. And of course, the wheel and fender are removed for access.

That's the beauty of GTT. I learned the quick fix here, and then had an opportunity to pass it on.
I thank you again and I have another question. I recently had them convert my air filter housing and while it was there they said I have a small leak of a seal in the transmission and they want to replace it. I have a couple months left on my warranty but I haven’t seen any signs of a leak. I don’t know if I want them to tear it apart or not for a leak so small it don’t even show up on the floor. I was just wondering what you think.
Thanks
 

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I think I would want them to fix it while it's still under warranty. Who knows, it might get worse later.
 
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I think I would want them to fix it while it's still under warranty. Who knows, it might get worse later.
yeah i agree too--i wonder if the OP has crawled underneath to look for the supposedly leak-if it was me-i would be all over it before the warranty ran out on the tractor. a few posts on here over the yrs of fellas who had no warranty and had to have their tractors split and it cost big bucks
 
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I recently bought a 1025R and the Rockshaft will not raise or lower the mower deck. Not sure if I am missing something that needs done.
 

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I recently bought a 1025R and the Rockshaft will not raise or lower the mower deck. Not sure if I am missing something that needs done.
Some machines are equipped with an independent lift cylinder to move the deck. If it has that the 3 point will not move the deck. Is that a possibility?
 
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