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Does anyone have a suggestion for adjusting the seat back to a more upright position? I'm a little on the short side. :unknown:
 

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I use a lumbar support pillow from relaxed a back store.
https://www.relaxtheback.com/self-inflating-back-rest.html#



Kind Regards,
mdgilbreath
1990 YJ Jeep Wrangler

1026R / H120 FEL with a WR Long Tooth Bar
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54"quick detach deck
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2" Ball mount to pull utility trailer[/QUOTE]
 
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Does anyone have a suggestion for adjusting the seat back to a more upright position? I'm a little on the short side. :unknown:
I see no simple way. The bracket that holds the seat back to the bottom seat frame is a solid piece, and short of cutting and welding at a new angle there iis not any adjustment. Drilling a new upper seat back mounting hole slightly forward of the current position in the metal mount might be a possibility. The pic below is taken with the seat tipped forward to be able to show the whole bracket.
seatback1.JPG
 

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I see no simple way. The bracket that holds the seat back to the bottom seat frame is a solid piece, and short of cutting and welding at a new angle there iis not any adjustment. Drilling a new upper seat back mounting hole slightly forward of the current position in the metal mount might be a possibility. The pic below is taken with the seat tipped forward to be able to show the whole bracket.
View attachment 242754

You could add height to the rubber bumpers under the bottom of the seat. Thant would tip the seatback forward, but would also change the incline of the bottom cushion.
View attachment 242762
The rubber bumpers only come into play after you've exhausted spring travel and then it becomes a very rough ride.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I257 using Tapatalk
 

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Ajbarth, your admonition is noted. Perhaps one of the moderators could remove my post, please.
 

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I wanted my seat back up also, same as others looked at the brackets no luck. :banghead: I loosened the rear bolts holding the seat frame to the tractor. After removing the bolts, slid 2 or 3 flat washers in so the bolts would fit in them.
Best thing you can try the number of washers needed before tightening the bolts back down. Can't remember if I had to replace the original bolts with longer ones or not, . Did this over 4 yrs ago and when I traded tractors(1026 to 1025r) the dealer changed the seat for me.
 

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Off the cuff thinking here but...

If you made a plate (x2) like the crude drawing below (don't have access to my cad machine while I am at work!) you could build an offset using the original seat bracket.

You'll have to look because I don't have my 1025 here at the office either to see if the plate is better suited on the inboard side of the bracket or the outboard side. I suspect given the likely existence of a lip on the stamped part outboard would be the way to go. If it is, you will need to also make a spacer the thickness of the lip for the new holes to mate with the existing seat holes without bending the new "Seat bracket adjustment plate" (We'll get a part number later!:laugh:).

I would nylock nut and bolt the plate to the existing holes then use the existing bolts (if they are long enough) to run into the new holes. You will need to verify the hole locations in the new plates with the seat in the desired position but that should be relatively easy. Not knowing what tools you have or how experienced you are in metal working makes it a little bit of a challenge.

The simple way to do it would be to cut the plate as shown and drill the holes for the existing bolts then raise the seat and mark the new hole locations. Uses shims, washers or another piece of material to make up the difference on the flange of the stamped bracket then assemble. Using this method means you only need a drill, some material and some hardware. If you have a mill and a welder I can think of a few other ways to accomplish the same task!

(Note: The hole locations I have drawn are not correct but will give you the idea. In the real world the new holes should be on an arc from the original holes rather than straight across)
Seat.jpg

If the new holes are in fact in the same location that I have shown (i.e. they interfere with the existing bracket) perhaps mounting the plate inboard would be the way to go. Use your spacers on the existing holes to new bracket to deal with the flange and simply make sure you have clearance of the bolt heads with regard to the existing bracket in the new hole location.
 

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A couple of good ideas here. I'll look into the bracket mod. Adding spacers to the frame might be the quickest solution right now. Thanks a heap!:good2:
 

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Seat

An easier way might be to get a lawn chair cushion or something like that.
 
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