[DatButch]

Hi guys and gals. While changing my 47’’ snow blower impeller to a 4 fin metal one, I damaged the drive shaft seal. According to my serial number (leads to model M047SBX) and research, the replacement seal is supposed to be part number ce17406. I got the new seal from Deere. The new one is plastic while the old one was metal, and it is a good 1/8 larger in diameter than the metal one. I just could not drive it in. I don’t have tools but I used the arm to push it in. No matter how strong, it won’t fit. I then tried with a square pipe and it bent. So I have to buy yet another seal.
Anyone know if it’s normal? Is it just a case of if you don’t have the tools it’s impossible?

 

[Sundancer268]

Did you carefully look at the old seal? Most seals have a part number from the original manufacturer and that number can be crossed at most auto parts stores or on the web. JD didn't make the seal and the number they gave you could have entered in the data base wrong, placed on the wrong shelf etc. If you still have the old seal, you can take it into the store and they should be able to match it either by the numbers or dimensions

 

[DatButch]

Did you carefully look at the old seal? Most seals have a part number from the original manufacturer and that number can be crossed at most auto parts stores or on the web. JD didn't make the seal and the number they gave you could have entered in the data base wrong, placed on the wrong shelf etc. If you still have the old seal, you can take it into the store and they should be able to match it either by the numbers or dimensions

I’ll try that tomorrow I guess. I still have it, but it is very rusted, no part number to be found.

 

[Sundancer268]

Sometimes the number is on the rubber and with fine sand paper or power wire wheel you can remove enough rust to see the numbers. If all else fails, they can measure the of and thickness of the seal and IF you can provide the shaft diameter or the gear box so they can measure the shaft, it can be matched. The closer to a bearing supply house the better, though a good automobile parts dealer should have no problem matching it. If you can get the measurements properly you could find it at a supply house website your self. When I was living in Great Lakes Naval Station, I use to go to Detroit Ball Bearing company to cross bearings and seals for some restoration projects I was working on for fun. I believe they are out of business now as this was in the 70s. But there are other companies like that out there, just search for oil seals and see what pops up

 

[DatButch]

I sanded the old one, no number to be found. Called back my JD dealer, he says he has no other parts he can order for this. Is it just that the rubber / plastic ones are really bigger and absolutely need a tool to be driven in?

 

[rwmeyer]

Butch, An idea that may or may not work !
First, try to straighten damaged new seal as best you can, then get a gear type radiator clamp, NOT the wire type pulled together by a nut & bolt. Put a few layers of electrical on the inside of the clamp... to cover the teeth slots and make it slipperier..., lube OD of seal and tighten clamp around old seal, TIGHT! Lube seal and try to tap seal out of clamp and into bore. A punch or dowel will work and I've even used the head of a nail! If you can get seal 1/2 way in, call it a success, remove seal and install new seal when received. Bob

 

[DatButch]

Butch, An idea that may or may not work !
First, try to straighten damaged new seal as best you can, then get a gear type radiator clamp, NOT the wire type pulled together by a nut & bolt. Put a few layers of electrical on the inside of the clamp... to cover the teeth slots and make it slipperier..., lube OD of seal and tighten clamp around old seal, TIGHT! Lube seal and try to tap seal out of clamp and into bore. A punch or dowel will work and I've even used the head of a nail! If you can get seal 1/2 way in, call it a success, remove seal and install new seal when received. Bob

You know what, that could have worked! I certainly hope not, but if the new one leaks, I'll get a bigger one and try that.

 

[DatButch]

Thanks all for your advices. I actually didn't even know there existed specialized places for this type of stuff. Auto shops were of no help, they have no stock and wouldn't order based on dimensions. I called an industrial bearing company (Harvey Bearings), they told me to walk in, they took the old one, got me a replacement for 1/6 the JD price and off I was. The new one fitted easily, I barely had to hammer it with the piece that slides on the shaft and hold the impeller in place. It looked too easy, but the old one wasn't any harder to move (one the rust was removed). Now its in, the shaft rotates freely, the seal doesn't and it didn't leak while upside down for a minute.

The bearing guy told me the new one would never fit. It was a good 1/8in too big. I really don't get it, but hey, at least I'm out of trouble. Hopefully it'll last! Thanks again guys!

Here is the part I used to hammer it in:

Here is the installed seal!

 

[jgayman]

Can you share the manufacturer name and part number of the replacement seal in case someone else needs one (maybe a picture of the box with the P/N on the flap)?

 

[DatButch]

Good idea! Here are the pictures. It's from Harvey Bearings, part number 471744. On the seal itself, it is a TCM 1019725. Been standing upside down for a couple hours and no drip. Will rebuild the blower tomorrow and post back if is leaks upon running. When I manually turn the shaft, I do hear / feel a light mechanical noise / vibration. I hope I didn't damage the inside of the box when removing the stuck impeller.

Seal itself:

Reseller's box: