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Discussion Starter #1
Changes the hydro oil on my 1025r for the second time today. All went well I thought until I noticed a puddle of oil on the floor about an hour after I was done. Oil is seeping out of the top of the rubber piece connected to the oil auction screen assembly. Tried re-adjusting the stupid clamps but does not seem to want to quit leaking. Any ideas? Or do I need to order new clamps and a new rubber piece that goes between suction screen housing and tube up to pump? Would this be covered under powertrain warranty or am I better off just fixing it myself. I hate the thought of draining all the new oil I just put it in...
 

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That sucks...since the clamp can be slid up and off the hose, I'd consider trying a stainless worm-style clamp in its place. If it will stop the leak, leave it until your next hydro change.

Does the hose look like it's in the suction tube straight without the lip of the hose deformed / curled inside? That hose is so damn tight it's hard to imagine it seeping.
 

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Hose clamp

When I did the 50 hrs service, I spent more time on that PITA clamp than the entire service. Spreading the clamp wide enough and holding it open while trying to slide it up in tight quarters was annoying. I would slide the clamp up, wiggle the hose up and off, than wipe clean the metal flange from the screen holder. Than I would wipe the inside of the hose and put it back. When I slide the clamp back down, I made sure to rotate it so it was set in the impression/mold marks. I was pretty careful not to nick things up and have plier marks and burrs all,over the clamp to avoid the dealer blaming me if there was a leak. That hose is a very tight fit on that nipple off the transmission filter housing. You could also slide the clamp up, grab the hose and turn it back and forth than reposition the clamp on the hose mold marks. I honestly believe if you fool with it, you will get it to stop leaking. Good luck and
Let us know how you make out.
 

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Are you sure its the clamp causing the leak or was the internal suction screen put back incorrectly and crushed, causing the leak to come from somewhere else?
 

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It was definitely the clamp leaking. It was bubbling out of the top of the hose. I ended up sliding the factory clamp down and installed a USA made heavy worm gear type stainless clamp I found at lowes in the plumbing section. I tightened it up with a socket and it seems to have solved the problem. I will check it again later but I think it's good now. Is there any reason I can't use this type clamp going forward it will make the process much less painful than the factory stubborn clamps.
 

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It was definitely the clamp leaking. It was bubbling out of the top of the hose. I ended up sliding the factory clamp down and installed a USA made heavy worm gear type stainless clamp I found at lowes in the plumbing section. I tightened it up with a socket and it seems to have solved the problem. I will check it again later but I think it's good now. Is there any reason I can't use this type clamp going forward it will make the process much less painful than the factory stubborn clamps.

:thumbup1gif::thumbup1gif::thumbup1gif:

Thanks for the update.
 

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IMHO I'd look into what is known as a bolt clamp or t-bolt clamp. Typically these clamps have a smoother ID that's far less likely to chew up the outside of the hose the way worm clamps do.

Check out McMaster-Carr


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Discussion Starter #9
I like the look of the tight seal bolt clamps. I think I will order some of those before my next oil change, and change my rubber hose at the same time. It is deformed from the factory clamps, and the bolt clamp looks like it would provide more even pressure... and be simple to take on and off.

Thank you.
 

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Woudn't the cable operated hose clamp pliers work? This is one of the tools where I thanked myself many times for buying.

[iurl="http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=313625&d=1487109022"]
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https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable-Type-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B000F5JM0O
Those pliers look handy I may have to get a set of those. I still do not like the factory style clamp, especially after seeing the setup fail/leak. I will be switching to a different style clamp on both ends during my next oil change.
 
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It was definitely the clamp leaking. It was bubbling out of the top of the hose. I ended up sliding the factory clamp down and installed a USA made heavy worm gear type stainless clamp I found at lowes in the plumbing section. I tightened it up with a socket and it seems to have solved the problem. I will check it again later but I think it's good now. Is there any reason I can't use this type clamp going forward it will make the process much less painful than the factory stubborn clamps.
This is the type of clamp that JD should have used on this hose OEM. I replaced both of the original spring clamps with worm gear hose clamps. You definitely do not want this hose being loose because if it is, the hydraulic pump can cavitate (suck air). Cavitation is a problem in any hydraulic system.
 

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Those pliers look handy I may have to get a set of those. I still do not like the factory style clamp, especially after seeing the setup fail/leak. I will be switching to a different style clamp on both ends during my next oil change.
I've used them many times on heater hose size spring clamps but not sure if they open large enough for the clamp on your suction line. The thing about the spring type clamps is they tend to tighten with vibration rather than loosen like a worm drive clamp. I'm not sure if they make spring clamps that large either.

The thing that bothers me about regular worm clamps on a hose like this is that the slots in the clamp can tear into the hose. A smooth bore clamp like in the pic below would be better I am thinking.

001887_001423_001356_T-Bolt_Hose_Clamp_01.jpg
 

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This is the type of clamp that JD should have used on this hose OEM. I replaced both of the original spring clamps with worm gear hose clamps. You definitely do not want this hose being loose because if it is, the hydraulic pump can cavitate (suck air). Cavitation is a problem in any hydraulic system.

The reason manufacturers use them spring style clamps is to make it idiot proof when they build the machine. Whoever installs the clamp doesn't have to worry about weather it is tight enough or over tight.
However the first poor guy that has to remove the hose finds it welded on from the heat.
I'd recommend replacing the hose with new clamps of your choice next time you service it.
 

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It was definitely the clamp leaking. It was bubbling out of the top of the hose. I ended up sliding the factory clamp down and installed a USA made heavy worm gear type stainless clamp I found at lowes in the plumbing section. I tightened it up with a socket and it seems to have solved the problem. I will check it again later but I think it's good now. Is there any reason I can't use this type clamp going forward it will make the process much less painful than the factory stubborn clamps.
Nice job! :thumbup1gif:

As others have said, the smooth bolt-style clamps are probably the best, BUT, you might not have been able to get one on without removing the hose, losing all your oil, and making a huge mess. I would have done exactly what you did.

Those awful spring style clamps do have an advantage, they maintain constant pressure.
 

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Now.. Whats the deal with clamps with the hyd service? To remove the elbow and screen? Hose? What the.. Nope.. Never.. Done half a hundred and never touched a clamp. One cap head allen screw.. Clean screen and magnets. Spin on filter change, 4 gal low vis.. Done.

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I've used them many times on heater hose size spring clamps but not sure if they open large enough for the clamp on your suction line. The thing about the spring type clamps is they tend to tighten with vibration rather than loosen like a worm drive clamp. I'm not sure if they make spring clamps that large either.

The thing that bothers me about regular worm clamps on a hose like this is that the slots in the clamp can tear into the hose. A smooth bore clamp like in the pic below would be better I am thinking.

View attachment 313641
There is no question, the T bolt clamp like you picture is really the best. With larger sized suction hoses, I always use T bolt clamps. On the 1025R suction line, a good quality worm drive clamp works, but, hey....a t bolt clamp would be best!!!!
 
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Now.. Whats the deal with clamps with the hyd service? To remove the elbow and screen? Hose? What the.. Nope.. Never.. Done half a hundred and never touched a clamp. One cap head allen screw.. Clean screen and magnets. Spin on filter change, 4 gal low vis.. Done.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
I can't even begin to envision removing and cleaning the pickup screen without removing the clamps and pickup hose. The hose is attached directly to the inlet tube.

Can you describe how this can be done?
 

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What size T bolt clamp is the right fit for the 1025 hose that goes to the screen filter with magnet? I want to order a new replacement hose too.

thanks,
Don
 
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