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1025r vs 2032r vs 3025e

11K views 34 replies 15 participants last post by  rcguymike 
#1 ·
Hello all - getting ready to do some tractor shopping and as I am entirely new to this - wanted to get a little feedback to make sure I’m not crazy. Well - I am crazy but... you know what I mean.

At the core - my main concern is going to be stability. Our new property is just over 4 acres - house at the top of a hill and pretty much an even slope down to the road from there. Not a lot of undulating terrain - not lots of steep little hills just one big downhill.

Planned use is eventually mowing but - as of now the lot is really filled with trees. Plans are to thin things out, firewood what is big enough and chip/mulch the small stuff . Then clean out some rocks around the place, bring in some topsoil and incorporate with the existing soil and hopefully get some grass growing. Lots of “stuff” that I need the machine to be able to do, all on a slope and in a wooded area.

I’d prefer the smaller size of the 1025 just for the nimbleness- but am kinda leaning towards the extra umpf and heft of the 2032... saw where you can add a spacer on the 2032 to widen the rear wheels a bit, not sure if that’s available on the 1 series or not so if anyone knows off the cuff let me know. Also - specs I’ve looked at seem like there isn’t a huge size different between the 2032 and the 3025... obviously somewhat larger frame but lower HP and doesn’t seem like the same level of “gadgets.” If anyone has extensive experience on the two does the 3 drive that much “bigger” in terms of handling?
Basically - at the end of the day the 2032 seems like it’s the sweet spot - but that’s all based on me doing paper research. So - am I off in left field here or?
 
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#2 ·
Im only just now getting my first tractor (a 1025R) but I am on a much smaller lot than you so I cant offer any real world help in that aspect. But, I can tell you that they do indeed make wheel spacers for the 1025R, as many have done that here.
Just give it a little time and Im sure others that are more knowledgeable can help guide you in the right direction.
 
#3 ·
Don’t forget the little 2025R. Only a couple grand more than the 1025R and just as nimble. Slightly more capable and feels more stable I think with loaded tires and wheel spacers. Very good mowing machine also.
 
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#4 ·
Keep in mind the 3025E doesn't have Mid PTO so you can't do a Mid Mount Mower like you can with the 2032R and 1025R. You can do a rear finish mower or brush mower. You mentioned mowing so just wanted to make sure you knew that.

Also there is a kit to remove the FEL from the 3025E but it isn't as easy as the other two you mentioned. Also someone else mentioned the 2025R. That is another option.
 
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#5 ·
I agree with Wvdeere, if I were you I would narrow my search down to the 2025R and the 2032R. The only thing you're going to get with the 3025 over the 2032 is frame/tire size, otherwise the specs are virtually identical with the exception of some very key points also mentioned. No mid PTO on the 3E, no detachable FEL and no split brakes. Back to the 2R's, make a list of the things you think you'll be doing with the tractor, than figure on many many things that you never thought of and buy with capabilities in mind.
 
#6 ·
They do make a kit to make it easier to take the FEL off the 3025E. It is kind of like a Kubota where you have to put a parking stand on the FEL but then pull some pins manually then disconnect the lines. Also there is no diff lock. Well kind of. The other machines have a separate lever for diff lock, at least the 1025R and 2025R. I don't know the 2032R as I have never looked at one. The only "Diff Lock" on the 3025E is by pressing the brake partway down. Though some have said that you can go one click on the parking brake and get diff lock.

Really if mowing is a major task the 3025E isn't going to be a good fit more so with a hill. Sure you can use a rear finish mower but mowing on a hill, mainly across a hill is a task I wouldn't want a FEL on the machine raising the center of gravity. While you can get that kit to take the FEL off, it isn't as easy to take off and put back on. When you are mowing frequently you will find this frustrating and won't use the FEL as much as you would if it was less work to go back and forth.

I have been looking at the 3025E but I won't mow with it. If I needed a machine for mowing I would lean toward a 2025R. Also note that the 2032R will have the emissions where the 2025R doesn't.
 
#7 ·
Yeah I think not having a MMM kinda kills the 3 series for me - it really seems like the past few years JD has started adding a lot of features to the 1 and 2 to make them much more user/newbie friendly. The biggest thing I worry about is the 2030’s weight compared to the 2025 and 1025... It can be either a huge benefit or a huge liability on slopes.
As far as figuring out all the things I’ll want to do with it and the “goodies” to make it happen I definitely want a FEL and like the ability to quickly drop it you get on the 1 and 2 series. With the amount of brush and stuff I’ll be dealing with and smaller logs - not sure I want to take the plunge on it yet but I think a grapple is likely in the cards but maybe I could get around that with using forks and chains? Since I’ll be doing a lot of grading/leveling dirt I’m thinking a box blade but again no idea if that’s right or not. Since I’ll be working on incorporating top soil into what we have now - mostly red clay - I’m assuming I’ll also need a tiller. I’ve thought about the backhoe but - aside from a few rocks that I can probably figure out how to get around with the FEL and a little ingenuity- I just am having a hard time justifying the price on it. One thing that I’m on the fence on is leaf collection - we’ve got beautiful old growth hardwoods throughout the property that are going to stay - I’ve got a nice Husqy leaf blower but if I could use a MMM and a collector to mulch them it would work a lot better than just moving the pile and would save a ton of time as well. Again - thanks for all the advice so far and pointers/recommendations are greatly appreciated!
 
#9 ·
Yeah I think not having a MMM kinda kills the 3 series for me
One point of clarification on this. The 3E machines do not have mid PTO. 3R machines do have mid PTO. The 3R also has a much easier to remove FEL like on the 1R and 2R. So these are feature differences between the E and R versions in the 3 Series.

The biggest thing I worry about is the 2030’s weight compared to the 2025 and 1025... It can be either a huge benefit or a huge liability on slopes.
Another thing to consider on the weight is that it is harder on the grass.
 
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#8 · (Edited)
I believe the frame size difference between the 2032R and the 3025E is one inch. The 3025E just has the bigger tires. The 2032R also outweighs the 3025E, by 200 pounds, and due to the smaller tire size, that 200 pounds is closer to the ground. The 2032R loader is almost the equal of the 3025E, losing out by under 50 pounds if I recall correctly.

The operators station on the 2Rs is also better by a long shot, they hit the nail on the head with that one. Add the autoconnect deck and it's a very good mower. Out of the 3 you listed, I would (and do) have the 2032R.

Get the tires loaded and the rear wheel spacers and you will be all set. I have a very hilly property, don't have spacers, and it's very stable.

The TKV20 is a great leaf collector as well, check out Tractor Time with Tim on YouTube, he has a couple videos detailing it and is also a member here.
 
#11 ·
The 3025E just has the bigger tires.
I keep hearing that so it must be true.
741090


2025 is a 1025 just with bigger tires

3R's are just 2R's just with bigger tires

Wonder why John Deere doesn't just make one tractor and you get to pick the tire size?
 
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#10 ·
It sounds like you main concerning is stability of the differing tractors do to you slopes. My lot is a sloped as any and I mow across the slope with a 1025R and do not have wheel spacers. I only have the rear tires filled with rim guard.

On the hill, it is as planted as it can be. In fact, to stay in the seat, I have to hold onto the fender handholds.

Also, you cannot use wheel spacers that are too wide due to the rear tires hitting the mmm.

Now, all that said, the 2025 is a good small step up but the 2025 has a standard category 1 3 point, not limited cat 1 like the 1 series, the engine in the 2025 is not the same engine as the 1 series, the 2025 has more PTO HP which will be noticeable when using PTO attachments, the tractor size is slightly larger but not allot so it will still be "nimble" and it has better FEL lifting capacity.

It sounds like you are going to use this tractor for mowing and other tasks, like most of us do. If you lot is soft ground, then you should reconsider using a tractor of this weight to mow. Even a 1 series can make marks in soft ground, the 2025 would be even worse, and if you step up to a 2032, it will be even worse.

I agree with others, make a list of all the tasks you even think you will want to use this tractor for and then buy the tractor that fits your needs. They are all going to be pretty good on slopes. John Deere is very good at keeping the center of gravity low on all of their sub-compact and compact tractors so stability is not the most important thing to consider when buying this size tractor.
 
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#13 ·
Now, all that said, the 2025 is a good small step up but the 2025 has a standard category 1 3 point, not limited cat 1 like the 1 series, the engine in the 2025 is not the same engine as the 1 series, the 2025 has more PTO HP which will be noticeable when using PTO attachments, the tractor size is slightly larger but not allot so it will still be "nimble" and it has better FEL lifting capacity.
You are referring to the Gen1 2025R, the new 2025R is definitely more tractor than the 1025 but still suffers from limitations. But they all have their limits and no matter what you buy you'll find them. That's when you make the decision to upgrade or work with it.
Wonder why John Deere doesn't just make one tractor and you get to pick the tire size?
Good one

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#12 ·
Based on what I have read so far, I would suggest focusing on the 2 series.

Since they don't make a 2E, they are all R's and that makes it easy to compare between them.

The 2 series can also use wheel spacers for better stability. The 3 series cannot - too weak and puny of a rear axle assembly.

Pick the engine / PTO hp that you need (25, 32 or 38) and then start adding the implements you need.

Sign here: __

That was easy. Almost like buying office supplies.
 
#20 ·
Thanks for all the input everyone - to clarify - yes my biggest concern is getting "too much" tractor for the space and slope and not being able to operate safely... I've know a few guys who have rolled tractors in ditches/on hills etc. and - yeah - don't want to go down that road. Mowing will be "a task" that I'm asking the machine to perform - but for the time being it will not be the primary task because well - I've got an excrement load of trees and brush to take care of thinning/removing before I get there. Soil here is fairly firm - mostly clay so I'm less worried about leaving ruts but it would suck to spend a year's worth of afternoons and evenings clearing the place and getting grass to grow on it only to destroy it the first time you go to mow. All great food for thought. Although - I could just buy two each shovels, rakes, sledge hammers, picks, wheelbarrows, push mowers and leaf blowers and make my kids go do it all...
 
#21 ·
Although - I could just buy two each shovels, rakes, sledge hammers, picks, wheelbarrows, push mowers and leaf blowers and make my kids go do it all...
There is no place for that kind of language around here.
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#23 ·
Also don't forget to price out a MMM. Just throwing this out there. I know many people that have realized that John Deere doesn't give away the MMM. For what they want for them, they opted to get a dedicated mowing machine. It keeps the hours off the tractor which has more expensive maintenance intervals and helps it retain more value. The dedicated mower is lighter than the tractor so easier on the yard.

I am just mentioning it as something to consider as you shop. The 3025E is a less expensive machine and has some benefits over the 2025R if you have something else for mowing.

There is a reason I bought the Z950R. It opened the door for more options like the 3025E as I don't need it for mowing. Of course the drawback is storage. I have outbuildings though so not an issue. Also another engine to maintain. My argument there is every time we cut the grass, it takes an hour less time with the ZTrak. I have some maintenance but it is very little and I have made up the "time" aspect of maintenance once I cut the grass a couple times.
 
#24 ·
I know many people that have realized that John Deere doesn't give away the MMM
Yeah - no kidding. You’d almost think that there is gold somewhere in green paint - but in all seriousness you do bring up a very valid point. For what one of the MMMs cost one could get a small “big box store” rider just to mow and save the hours on the tractor. In my situation - where the lawn-to-be will likely still be interspersed with the larger trees (we don’t want to cut the old growth white oaks and maples) - a smaller mower may do the trick and be more capable of maneuvering around beds and such. Good food for thought... of course I see this turning into a parallel with Tiger King - one you have one tiger (tractor) you end up with twenty of them and a whole zoo to go along with it. May have to sell a kidney before this gets started 😂
 
#27 ·
Tim just did a video along this topic that would provide some info.

It is on a Dixie Chopper but is a comparison on running a MMM vs ZTR. Really all the ZTR brands are really close. Ferris is the one that is different but this will give you some food for thought.

 
#28 ·
Yeah saw the TTWT video after reading your post - one problem I could foresee is that we are far from level ground so while the ZTR would be faster may not be the best option: but the point of crunching the numbers and deciding whether a second machine makes more sense or not is well taken. I’m still concerned about overall weight and maneuverability though - the big hill, lots of trees to scoot around, tight spaces in some places - watching TTWT and others do stuff with the 1025s I’m not so sure one of those wouldn’t do everything I wanted; albeit more slowly or making more trips than with a 2 or 3 series. Biggest thing for me is going to be light loader work, some tilling and grading, and running a few other PTO implements like possibly a chipper and stump grinder. I’ve unfortunately gotten into the “fat and lazy” camp the past few years so comfort is, if I’m being honest, something I’m wanting in whatever machine I end up with so the “fancy” R models are somewhat more appealing there... but I guess the only real way to test that out is to go sit on them. Perhaps the best way to do this would be to list out all the crap I want to do and have you all tell me if you think a 1/2/3 could handle it -
-Cut down and remove trees - nothing over 10 inch diameter (obviously chain saw work: but need to have something that can move cut down segments of the tree (cut into firewood sized chunks)) - would like a PTO driven chipper that I can take where the tree is to dispose of smaller limbs on the spot. MAYBE a PTO driven splitter in the future but for now my back can still handle swinging a maul... especially at the price point I’ve seen.

- Move dirt, dig up and move small rocks - we’re talking mostly clay, with 4” to 5” rocks, occasionally come across some bigger stuff (2’ or so) but that’s rare. Thinking FEL with a tooth bar and a small cultivator to “chew up” the top few inches and pull any of the smaller rocks to the top.

- till, grade, and level the soil - this is going to be to prep where we eventually want to grow grass where there isn’t now - probably 2 acres +\- on a slope and we will have trees still interspersed in the area so it won’t be “wide open”... thinking FEL, box blade, and 48”-ish tiller.

- eventually mow the grass we’ve grown

- leaf pick up in the fall - this is the one point where I think sticking with a MMM might work better than buying a separate machine; getting something like the 20 bushel material collection system TTWT showed a few times on YouTube so we can just blow all the leaves out into open space and run over it to pick up and dispose of it.
From everything I’ve seen I don’t think that there’s any reason a 1 series couldn’t do all that stuff but would just take longer and may end up being more limited on choices. The 2032/38 would be better but, of course, there’s the hit on the wallet to consider and they’d be less suitable to mowing. Then there’s the 3 series which, admittedly I have not researched as much, but I think the 3039R or similar would be at the upper edge of the budget and may be just a bit too large - again, though, I’ve focused quite a bit on the 1 and 2 series and haven’t gone too far into the 3 yet so maybe I’m way off in that regard.
In any event thanks to all for the help this far... lots of good ideas floating around!
 
#29 ·
I can't answer all your questions as it is a little outside my use cases or others might be able to answer it better. Here are the ones that I can answer.

ZTR is going to like a flat yard. If you are considering tilling and leveling the yard for grass you might get there. With a tractor you can fix the other areas. I don't know how bad your yard is. I wouldn't want to cut a pasture with one though if you know what I mean. As far as a ZTR on a hill. They have a very low center of gravity. Good luck trying to flip one. That said they are not perfect. Going down hill they are treacherous if there are any obstacles or if the grass wet from dew. If you are going too fast down hill you can loose steering and stopping more so if you start bouncing around. I have one spot where it is a down hill, not far and not that steep but I have to make a right turn or go off a 3' retaining wall. Lots of pucker factor with that. I try and cut going uphill or across hill and they are great.

My sister and brother in law recently bought a chipper and stump grinder for their 2305 and are really happy with them. The one thing to note is they added a 3pt Quick Hitch like what I have on my X585 to make change over easier but they also do all the chipping. Once done they do all the stump grinding. This minimizes changeover. The Quick Hitch makes it easier but there is still wrestling with the PTO shafts. Also watch the PTO HP on the machines you are looking at. Some of the attachments need more HP than others and this is where some of the tractor decision comes in. Though you can get a stump grinder that will work with say a 1025R, it will just have to take smaller bites at the stump and take more time than one with a higher rating.

Most people here are of the though that a wood splitter is best as a standalone machine. There are a couple reasons for this. Most look at one driven off the tractor hydraulics. The flow rate often isn't high enough to make it work that great meaning it operates slow compared to even one with a 5HP standalone engine. I want to say there are some options that are PTO driven but then you have the tractor tied up still with the spliter. When splitting wood having use of the FEL can be handy to save on your back. None of us are getting younger.

Now this next part has changed. I would have a harder decision given what is available today vs what was available a few years ago. As I have mentioned a few times I bought the Z950R. This is used for mowing all summer and in the fall I have the Dump from Seat Collection System. If you jump in a Delorian and go back to when I made that decision the options were a bit different.

What was the same is I was looking at either replacing my X585 with something bigger or just changing up how I did things. For my budget I was shooting for around $20-25K. Of course I could go higher by selling the X585 and possibly all attachments depending on which direction I went. I really didn't have much need for more than 25HP and don't do anything where I need a rear PTO so the PTO HP wasn't really an issue.

The 2025R didn't exist in the current form so that wasn't an option. I really looked at the 1025R. The problem was the collection system back then. I currently compost all the leaves. The only JD collection system was the 3 bag version. I have a cart with the X585 which works well. I do have to stop, get off and dump. The last thing I wanted to do was go from that to a 3 bag system that I had to get off and lift and dump all the bags. Remember the part about not getting younger. The 1 Series also uses the same plastic powerflow head for the collection system that I have had a lot of issues with over the years in wearing out on the X585. I wasn't thrilled about this. These things really were a deal killer for the 1 Series in my use case. If I went a 1 Series it would have been selling the X585 and all that stuff so I would be a huge step backwards for what I had for leaf collection. Sure there were aftermarket options but I wanted to roll everything into the 0% financing. Also a lot of those require the use of a 5hp or so pony engine which I didn't want to deal with. I discovered the Z9xx had a dump from seat collection system and the powerflow head is a commercial version that is all steel. I was sold. I went into the dealer I had been working with and cleared the slate as I was concerned about how well the 1 Series would work for me. I asked about keeping the X585 and all attachments, retiring it from mowing for now and going with a Z9xx with DFS Collection. He tried to steer me to a Z915B (which is now the Z915E). I was like eeeh, I had done some research and I was concerned about something with the B/E/M line. They all use a foot operated deck lift. The deck has deck lift assist springs to make it easier to operate. The problem is you hang 70# or so of the commercial powerflow head off the side of the deck and you have to adjust the deck assist springs. If not your right leg will become like a crab's dominate claw. If I stepped up to a R it has hydraulic deck lift and you don't have to worry about it. I was also a little concerned with the HP on the base models also powering the powerflow head. I felt that a Z950R might be the ticket. Turns out it was like it was meant to be. They had a Z950R that was a 2015 and this was Dec and the 2016s were coming out that had a few design changes. The Z950R was their demo/loaner machine and had 45hrs on it. Because JD doesn't have an official loaner program it is the dealer that runs it and since it had never been registered or "sold" as far as JD was concerned it was a new machine so the warranty started as if it was a 0 hr machine. It even already had the DFS Collection System on it like I wanted. The only thing it didn't have was the full suspension seat. In negotiations on cost I got them to upgrade the seat to the full suspension which they swapped off another machine. To order the parts at the time for me to do it would have been over $1K. Basically I got into a Z950R with DFS MCS including tax and everything for under $16K. Since the X585 was doing what I needed it to do for now, I just kept using it for a dedicated FEL and snow removal machine. Knowing that I can now replace it with something else later. Mowing is what sees by far the most hours of use.

Fast forward to today with the current options as I know them. I would have a hard time deciding as the field has changed. I have thought about trading in or selling the X585 all attachments and the Z950R on a 2025R, maybe even with a cab, MMM and the rear PTO driven DFS Collection system. Had the 2025R speced out that way been an option 4 years ago, I would have had a hard decision I might have gone the 2025R route though probably no cab. I do like the Z950R so I really don't think I would trade it in on a 2025R but I am on the fence with the 2025R and 3025E for a replacement on the X585.
 
#31 ·
I have a 5 acre hilly property - probably 4 acres of it gets mowed with my 1025R with the 60d MMM. Looking back 4 years ago, I think I would have preferred a larger tractor; especially now that the 2032R was redesigned since then. I would really love to give one of those a go here.

I think you put it best. The 1025R will do the job, and it really is great. I think it just takes more time. My mowing task takes about 3.5 to 4 hours now. I think it could be done in half that with the larger tractor, leaving me more time for other things like brush removal, road maintenance etc - I am always behind trying to keep up with all the jobs.

The 1025R can handle this property, but I think I could make quicker work of the property with the larger tractor as it could go faster with the larger tires/longer wheelbase over the bumpy pasture I think (and I don't mean going very fast, right now I am at a snails pace; in low gear due probably at 1-2 mph due to the bumpy ride on the 1025R - working on a better seat now). I love the MMM as it adds a lot of stability on the hills, adding all that weight down low, so I would stick with that option on a hilly property. I've been at 18-20 degrees on the tilt meter and the tractor has felt stable, though my own pucker factor was freaking out. JD claims the 2032 is more stable, but it has more ground clearance, so I am not sure. My tires are filled too - that is a must on hilly property.

The 2032 can handle heavier implements - I use a landscape rake (LR2060L) a lot and often wish I had the heavier one. I have the BB2048L box blade, and its great, but again, often find myself wishing for more weight; also have the RT1149 tiller, and that has been very good, but man do I get thrown around on this property when it hits rocks. I go over with the BB first with the tines down at a max angle and a shorter top link to get as many out as I can first before tilling too. But, I still hit rocks; so I have to set the tiller to go more shallow so as not to break it and more passes (more time).

Sounds like you have a lot of work at this property, if I were you I'd seriously consider the 2032R.
 
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#32 ·
Hello all - getting ready to do some tractor shopping and as I am entirely new to this - wanted to get a little feedback to make sure I’m not crazy. Well - I am crazy but... you know what I mean.

At the core - my main concern is going to be stability. Our new property is just over 4 acres - house at the top of a hill and pretty much an even slope down to the road from there. Not a lot of undulating terrain - not lots of steep little hills just one big downhill.

Planned use is eventually mowing but - as of now the lot is really filled with trees. Plans are to thin things out, firewood what is big enough and chip/mulch the small stuff . Then clean out some rocks around the place, bring in some topsoil and incorporate with the existing soil and hopefully get some grass growing. Lots of “stuff” that I need the machine to be able to do, all on a slope and in a wooded area.

I’d prefer the smaller size of the 1025 just for the nimbleness- but am kinda leaning towards the extra umpf and heft of the 2032... saw where you can add a spacer on the 2032 to widen the rear wheels a bit, not sure if that’s available on the 1 series or not so if anyone knows off the cuff let me know. Also - specs I’ve looked at seem like there isn’t a huge size different between the 2032 and the 3025... obviously somewhat larger frame but lower HP and doesn’t seem like the same level of “gadgets.” If anyone has extensive experience on the two does the 3 drive that much “bigger” in terms of handling?
Basically - at the end of the day the 2032 seems like it’s the sweet spot - but that’s all based on me doing paper research. So - am I off in left field here or?
I was in your shoes 2 months ago and after so many of Tim's (TTWT) videos and gettin more bang for your dollar and worth the increase cost, I bought the 2032R. My reasons were bigger attachments, more lifting power, more bells & whistles/features. Especially where I didn't need a mower deck. I got loaded, pallet forks & rake as I'm clearing 3.8 acres & building a house. I then both Agfolks MINI Pallet Fork Add A Grapple.

Hope this helps
 
#33 ·
Some other thoughts. Last year I purchased, from a John Deere dealer, a 3 year old 3046r TL with 80 hrs. on her for less than the cost of a new 2032r TL. She has mid PTO, rear remotes, and air ride seat. The 3046r was in the row with the new ones and you couldn't tell the difference until you looked at the hour meter. The e-hydro is fantastic. She will lift all of the 3 point implements I have at idle. The loader will lift full bucket of crushed stone at or just off idle. I also have a 1025r TLB and in order to do any real loader work or lift a 3 point implement you have to have the engine screaming wide open. What ever you decide to purchase, test drive for control function. How many levers and buttons do I have to move and push to get off the tractor seat with the engine running. What do I have to do to mow in reverse. See how the bucket lifts with a load. Put a heavy implement on the 3 point, see how it lifts. I found the the 3046r on Tractor House or Machinery Pete. It was 100+ miles away in another state. They ask if it was for ag use and I said horse farm. Was not charged sales tax. Pick what works and enjoy.
 
#35 · (Edited)
The 3e is "more compact" length wise than the 2 series. I believe the turning radius is about the same, the 300e loader lifts more weight to full height than the 220r, but has less breakout force. I think that's due to the geometry of keeping the bucket closer to the frame. I wanted a 3r but it's takes up more real estate. The 320r loader is an extreme bump up in performance over a 3e and lower series, the amenities are really nice as well. I can't say I've ever experienced a 2 series but I'd go for a cheap tractor and dedicated lawn mower, I think, over any MMM; just too pricey, finicky and don't do as well, I think a 3pt finish mower would probably do better and is more versatile. I'd look at a 3032e though. Also it's really expensive but the 370B backhoe is amazing! 😁
 
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