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My neighbor’s 738 crosses slopes I wouldn’t try with my 1025 except for straight up/down.

It’s a trade off, though.

I pulled him out of the snow he got stuck in this past winter (we had a pretty good nor’easter that had us buried pretty deep).
 
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I doubt there are many, if any, who regret going to a machine with a FEL. Most of us who have a 1 series, had a garden tractor before or still do. I know for a fact, if I had to choose between a 3ph or a FEL, I would take the FEL all day long and twice on Sundays................

Ironically, you can use the FEL to lift all sorts of things, where you generally need some property to really need a 3ph.............pretty much everything a small tractor can do with a 3ph, there are alternatives for doing the same process with a tow behind implement. Sure, the results with a 3ph are likely to be better than a tow behind counter part, but there are sleeve hitches and ways to even use rear blades without the 3ph on a small lawn and garden tractor.

The FEL is the type of thing that you don't know what you are missing until you have had one. I have nearly two dozen neighbors who frequently ask for my help doing things with the tractor and the FEL is particularly useful. Pallet forks for me 80% of the time, the bucket the other 20% of the time.............and Ken's bolt on hooks 100% of the time...........
 

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My FEL got me a bunch of free pizza, believe it or not…
 
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Lol. 1025R owner with about a 1/4 acre here. If you see yourself actually making use of a small tractor just buy a 1 Series and enjoy it.

A tractor is a tool and I don't know anybody who ever looked at one of their tools and thought "gosh I wish I bought a less capable model" but I know plenty of people (myself included, sometimes) that wished they bought the more capable version of a tool. In my case I wanted a loader for moving material, heavy items and trailers, and I also wanted a 3 point for a box blade. And with the ease of the AutoConnect PTO, I figured I might as well get the mid mower too and do away with the tin can box store lawn tractors for mowing. Plus when I do buy another house on more land, I won't worry about buying a tractor cause this one will be (or will be close to being) paid off.

As for tearing up your yard, I have filled R4 tires and the only real "damage" I've ever seen is leaving depressions in the ground (wouldn't call them full-on ruts) because it was wet and I made a few trips across with a full bucket of dirt. I knew it would happen but didn't care since I don't have a carefully manicured lawn, just a rural yard.

If just mowing, no problems at least on my terrain. It gets real wet here in the summer so sometimes I leave tire tracks but they generally disappear in a day or two. However I usually leave the loader on and just drop the bucket. If you're real concerned about it then taking the entire loader off only takes a minute or two and loses you a few hundred pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thankfully you included “imo”.

No need to judge what others view as fun toys. I had 1/2 acre when I got my 1025r. Didn’t need it, but it provided amazing stress relief from the day job. …and in my case, led to a new career.

The 1025r is by far the most fun ‘toy’ I have ever purchased!
I was watching some of your videos, they are really good :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Lol. 1025R owner with about a 1/4 acre here. If you see yourself actually making use of a small tractor just buy a 1 Series and enjoy it.

A tractor is a tool and I don't know anybody who ever looked at one of their tools and thought "gosh I wish I bought a less capable model" but I know plenty of people (myself included, sometimes) that wished they bought the more capable version of a tool. In my case I wanted a loader for moving material, heavy items and trailers, and I also wanted a 3 point for a box blade. And with the ease of the AutoConnect PTO, I figured I might as well get the mid mower too and do away with the tin can box store lawn tractors for mowing. Plus when I do buy another house on more land, I won't worry about buying a tractor cause this one will be (or will be close to being) paid off.

As for tearing up your yard, I have filled R4 tires and the only real "damage" I've ever seen is leaving depressions in the ground (wouldn't call them full-on ruts) because it was wet and I made a few trips across with a full bucket of dirt. I knew it would happen but didn't care since I don't have a carefully manicured lawn, just a rural yard.

If just mowing, no problems at least on my terrain. It gets real wet here in the summer so sometimes I leave tire tracks but they generally disappear in a day or two. However I usually leave the loader on and just drop the bucket. If you're real concerned about it then taking the entire loader off only takes a minute or two and loses you a few hundred pounds.
Thanks for the Input dixie, do many people just mulch their grass and skip the power loader/bagger? I was told to just mulch and skip the bagger all together..
 

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Thanks for the Input dixie, do many people just mulch their grass and skip the power loader/bagger? I was told to just mulch and skip the bagger altogether..
The best advice I got from my wise 'ol neighbor - mulch and don't bag. Heck, he taught me how to skip raking leaves too. Oregon gator blades + mulch kit on the deck = grass needs very little fertilization (this year I actually should have skipped fert) and in the fall I just mulch leaves by mowing over them until they are turned into dust (with oaks just means you can't let the leaves pile up). Now I am not running golf course quality lawn, so my view, in that case, is null and void.
 

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I just side discharge and the leaves get ignored. I live in the country and I am allergic to grass so the cutting is every two to three weeks. Yard is an old cow pasture next to a cedar swamp and is wet in some spots well into July. I keep it cut just to keep some open ground and not let the trees and brush take over. i am thinking next year when the virus has run its course of getting a full respirator mask to cover my face and eyes to see if that will help the eyes. Otherwise the two-three week schedule will have to suffice.
 

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Thanks for the Input dixie, do many people just mulch their grass and skip the power loader/bagger? I was told to just mulch and skip the bagger all together..
I was told to mulch years ago. I tried it on push mowers, I was not happy with the results. Then after years of dragging a Trac Vac 880 around to pick up leaves & getting tired of doing it, I finally decided to try a mulch kit on the X739. It worked out so well with leaves & mowing grass that I also go one for the 1025R. There is no more worrying about witch way to blow the grass or worrying about about hard objects being shot out of the deck. I never mulch wet grass or leaves.
 

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The bagger is nice to have if you want to collect leaves. Also if you are battling any weed problem it really helps to not spread the weed through the yard. Otherwise I agree with the others, mulching is good for the lawn or side discharge fine clippings.
 

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So here’s a mulch kit question…

I’ve had it a few times a year where rain and work schedules kept me from mowing until I had pretty tall grass. Even mowing with the deck fully raised, I was cutting half the length of the grass sometimes.

I’m guessing in that scenario a mulch kit is not gonna work out well?

And assuming the answer to that is “yes,” how much volume can be cut and still successfully mulched?
 

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Thanks for the Input dixie, do many people just mulch their grass and skip the power loader/bagger? I was told to just mulch and skip the bagger all together..
I side discharge. I don't LIKE mowing wet grass but sometimes I don't have an option in it unless I want my yard to look like a jungle. So during rainy season (which is about the only time the yard actually grows lol) the choices are, mow wet grass or mow slightly less wet grass. I was under the impression mulch blades don't work well with damp grass, so I've not tried them. Perhaps I should give it a go?
 

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I’ve done the mulch kit and the MCS.
I have about 4 dozen of these bad boys:
Plant Sky Flower Natural landscape Cloud


with mulching, I had to cross-cross about 4 times with each ‘leafmow’. I was averaging about 6 leaf-mow runs per season.

with the TKV20, I do 1 or 2 runs per season and it’s single-pass. It takes double the mow time of a standard run.
Note, with a mulch kit on all the time, I found de-thatching more important. I only run the tkv20 after a dethatch or as a leaf run each year, not every mow.
 
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Note, with a mulch kit on all the time, I found de-thatching more important.
That shouldn't be the case. Mulching is supposed to chop things up to prevent thatch. If thatch is occurring the mulch cut is too long or the blades aren't chopping fine enough (dull).
 

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That shouldn't be the case. Mulching is supposed to chop things up to prevent thatch. If thatch is occurring the mulch cut is too long or the blades aren't chopping fine enough (dull).
THIS so much. I have been sold "store brand" mulch blades by shops and there were clumps etc. Then I discovered these bad boys after watching a ton of videos Gator Mulching Blades | Oregon Products |
I use G5s and even going from about 5-6" down to 2" or so in a single pass - like I was bagging.
With oak leaves I've got it real bad. My 100+ yr old oaks are very very happy and huge. And when they drop leaves, it is leaf armagedon.
I found it is bad to wait. I now mow every week until they are gone. My "hack" is I go forward and if I don't like how fine the leaves got mulched, I mow over them backwards and it is like they did not exist. I do not know why going over them twice in a normal way doesn't produce as good of results as fast.
 

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THIS so much. I have been sold "store brand" mulch blades by shops and there were clumps etc. Then I discovered these bad boys after watching a ton of videos Gator Mulching Blades | Oregon Products |
I use G5s and even going from about 5-6" down to 2" or so in a single pass - like I was bagging.
With oak leaves I've got it real bad. My 100+ yr old oaks are very very happy and huge. And when they drop leaves, it is leaf armagedon.
I found it is bad to wait. I now mow every week until they are gone. My "hack" is I go forward and if I don't like how fine the leaves got mulched, I mow over them backwards and it is like they did not exist. I do not know why going over them twice in a normal way doesn't produce as good of results as fast.
I've got two giant oaks and their waxy, tough leaves give me hell. I'm going to have to see if they make gators for my deck. I've heard they are great for leaves with a mulch kit!
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Here’s my next question, I did opt out of the x758 for the 1025r.. I am now looking at inventory and trying to figure out the base prices for either a 47/54 blower haven’t decided on the which size I don’t really have a lot to snowblow so I am thinking the 47 would be fine? I am also opting for the 54 inch deck, with a 3 bag setup.. I don’t really need the loader at this exact time but I am told they are around $3500 ish. I have gotten 3 quotes from three places and the prices for the blower/bagger/deck are all over the place? Some places also mentioned they are out over 1 - 2 months?
 

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Get the loader instead of the blower and get a loader mounted plow. Much more versatile and for similar money. Make sure you get Versa Turf tires as well!
 

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I would definitely get the loader financed in at 0%. (Assuming you are financing) And as far as lead times would totally believe it. I waited for a loader for 2 months. Still out another month just for a tooth bar.
 

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If going with a blower, the 54 allows you to cut a path wider than tractor. And if you have turns in the drive, a 54 allows you to turn easier. The 47 being just as wide as tractor makes turns a little harder. With that being said, should really only effect first pass, as sequential passes would allow more room.

I have a 54 and love it. Even with plastic impeller it throws it far enough for me. My drive is lined with trees and not much room to push piles.




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