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im wanting to get some wheel spacers that dont cost an arm and a leg for the rear tires of my 1025r so does anyone know were to get some low cost but heavy duty ones
 

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im wanting to get some wheel spacers that dont cost an arm and a leg for the rear tires of my 1025r so does anyone know were to get some low cost but heavy duty ones
Check with Richard at Bro-tek. Got this from him earlier in July...

"We are presently having a 20% sale on wheel spacers, adding spacers on the tractor is one of the best improvements one can make."

[email protected] or Bro-Tek: Tractor Add Ons

No affiliation, just passing the info.

Steve
 

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Check with Richard at Bro-tek. Got this from him earlier in July...

"We are presently having a 20% sale on wheel spacers, adding spacers on the tractor is one of the best improvements one can make."

[email protected] or Bro-Tek: Tractor Add Ons

No affiliation, just passing the info.

Steve
I bought my at Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings, and much more! | Motorsport Tech last fall . Can't find the price I paid but less than 150. There website doesn't list any for series1 ,but Lenny Stahl Jr. is owner and will take care of you. I wish they were metal but made of aluminum , had them oxide so they are black. They are 1 3/16" thick , I mowed the other evening for close to 2 hrs no issues with 54 deck. The one problem and not really a problem, just a small thing, back wheel of mower right side is about 1/8-1/4" to close to the tractor tire. If you lower mower deck and then lower the wheel have little issue of releasing the latch to lower the wheel.
According to Lenny he can not make them any thinner than 1 3/16.
 

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I bought my at Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings, and much more! | Motorsport Tech last fall . Can't find the price I paid but less than 150. There website doesn't list any for series1 ,but Lenny Stahl Jr. is owner and will take care of you. I wish they were metal but made of aluminum , had them oxide so they are black. They are 1 3/16" thick , I mowed the other evening for close to 2 hrs no issues with 54 deck. The one problem and not really a problem, just a small thing, back wheel of mower right side is about 1/8-1/4" to close to the tractor tire. If you lower mower deck and then lower the wheel have little issue of releasing the latch to lower the wheel.
According to Lenny he can not make them any thinner than 1 3/16.
I got my wheel spacer for lenny also. Very nice guy to deal with.
 

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I got my wheel spacer for lenny also. Very nice guy to deal with.[/QUOTE

I agree, mine was the first ones he had made for the 1026. He ended up making 2 sets for me, but always very polite . It did take a wk or two longer than I was hoping and planning but they have done OK.
 

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Not sure what the bolt pattern is for the Deere's... but I got a set for my ATV from Precision Motowerks (Wheel Spacers Adapters, Shock Absorbers Struts items in Precision European Motorwerks store on eBay!

When I talked to them they were willing to customize... maybe they have.. or will build a set for the tractor... prices were good.

There is a link on GTT (Wheel bolt pattern for John Deere 425 and the common 23x10.5-12 wheels - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information) that talks about the bolt pattern... looks to be 5x4.5... if that is true then Precision probably has a set for about $50.
 

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Ok, rookie question. What's wheel spacers for? Wider stance?
 

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Ok, rookie question. What's wheel spacers for? Wider stance?
Mine and some of the others have a BH. Having a subframe and using chains the chains will hit the subframe causing problems.
Yes a wider stance , but my main reason subrame and chains.
 

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Mine and some of the others have a BH. Having a subframe and using chains the chains will hit the subframe causing problems.
Yes a wider stance , but my main reason subrame and chains.
I disagree. After buying a set of spacers (which didn't fit) I plowed most of last winter with chains and they cleared the BH frame nicely in all conditions. When the chains are properly installed they lay BETWEEN the lugs on R4 tires and do not come anywhere near the frame. I don't know about R3 turf tires.

My chains are genuine JD Chinese made chains and there would still be room for "weed type" lug chains. I will be adding one more cross link for this winter on each side, there is excessive spacing between the ends of the side chains equal to one cross link.
 

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I disagree. After buying a set of spacers (which didn't fit) I plowed most of last winter with chains and they cleared the BH frame nicely in all conditions. When the chains are properly installed they lay BETWEEN the lugs on R4 tires and do not come anywhere near the frame. I don't know about R3 turf tires.

My chains are genuine JD Chinese made chains and there would still be room for "weed type" lug chains. I will be adding one more cross link for this winter on each side, there is excessive spacing between the ends of the side chains equal to one cross link.
Mine are genuine v and I bar car chains and with just about every cross link you can put on . It's crazy one side never has hit or go caught on the subframe and the other side only every now and then. Have made all kind of adjustments to subframe but it will still catch just every now and then.

Also R4 tires
 

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Mine are genuine v and I bar car chains and with just about every cross link you can put on .
As Hamlet sez, "Aye, there's the rub." :laugh: I can see where they will catch if there are more cross links than the standard "2 link spaceing". I drove very gingerly the first time out with them on and nary a nick. Yeah, one side I can get the tip of my little finger between the tire lug and the frame and the other is "right there"... Still not hitting though.

I sometimes think that these tires are no so symmetrical and may cause some of the problems, especially since one of mine is "larger" than the other. Linkup on both sides is not the same (tires @ 20psi.). Maybe sidewalls vary a bit too....? Next time mine's up in the air I'm going to check the runout on both sides just for ha-ha's.
 
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