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Not sure of how brands translate from cars & trucks to tractors but, on a car or truck, Id never use anything but BORA spacers. They are probably the most (or among the most) expensive around but, you get what you pay for when you buy their brand.

The fact that tractors go much slower though, and you aren't worried about going 75 MPH around curves, I'm sure other brands may be just fine for a tractor. Im sure others will chime in though before you pull the trigger on which ones to buy. :good2:
 

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I have a question...... why put wheel spacers on a 1025R? :dunno:

I am having a hard time to see the advantage in adding 1 1/4" width to the stance of the tractor. My yard is seriously sloped and I mow across it and have no problems, other than staying in the seat. In fact, if the grass is too wet, the tractor will slide side ways, not tip. Now, I do have my rear tires filled with beet juice but no wheel weights.

If it is to install tire chains, I have a BH on my 1025R with R4 tires. Yes, you have to be careful to install the chains in the grooves but they work without spacers.

I'm just asking, don't throw anything!! :flag_of_truce: Convince me....... :knownothing:
 

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I have a question...... why put wheel spacers on a 1025R? :dunno:

I am having a hard time to see the advantage in adding 1 1/4" width to the stance of the tractor. My yard is seriously sloped and I mow across it and have no problems, other than staying in the seat. In fact, if the grass is too wet, the tractor will slide side ways, not tip. Now, I do have my rear tires filled with beet juice but no wheel weights.

If it is to install tire chains, I have a BH on my 1025R with R4 tires. Yes, you have to be careful to install the chains in the grooves but they work without spacers.

I'm just asking, don't throw anything!! :flag_of_truce: Convince me....... :knownothing:
While you tractor is sliding down the slope, a wheel could contact an obstacle thus possibly tipping. Now I'm not saying that spacers would stop that from happening, but a little insurance can't hurt. :dunno: I have 2" Bora spacers on my 1025R, and it makes a tremendous difference in stability.

To address OP's question, the width of spacers is dependent on whether or not he has a MMM and what width it is. Not positive, but I think 1-1/4" spacers are the maximum width for a 54" deck. There are threads on this forum addressing the issue of width when combined with MMM's.
 

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I have 1 1/2 inch spacers on my 1025 I don't have a mmm but I do have a curtis cab and it felt a little top heavy when I was running in my yard(small hills) so I added the spacers 1st then came back and added some 50 lb wheel weights too much better now:bigthumb:
 

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I am thinking about adding spacers to the rear of my 1025R. Was looking at Bora spacers. I am also thinking I will be getting a mmm so I think 1.5" is the biggest I can go. You also have to consider the width of your machine once you have spacers on. It will be wider than you 48" attachments like a rototiller. You may need to mount them offset to one side to cover one set of tire tracks.
 

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I have a question...... why put wheel spacers on a 1025R? :dunno:
I'm just asking, don't throw anything!! :flag_of_truce: Convince me....... :knownothing:
If you have a Mauser cab on a 1025R, and you are on anything but pancake flat terrain, you will want wheel spacers. Added 3 inch wheel spacers from Bro Tek, and they do make a world of difference.
 

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The funny thing with wheel spacers that I learned is a little bit goes a long way. I ordered 1.5” spacers from motor sport tech and while I waited patiently for them (only 12 days IIRC) I was second guessing my size selection. After putting them on I couldn’t believe the difference they made even though they only widened the stance by 3”.


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OK!!!! I have read all of your replies!! Thanks!!! Not sure I'm convinced, although I appreciate your points of view!! :good2: Especially with a cab.

I do know years ago, on the vintage 300 and 400 series tractors, you could reverse the wheels which increased the width stance, in fact I had mine turned. I'm not sure how much more stable it made the tractor but it made it look meaner!!!:laugh:

I had thought about a set of spacers, to provide more clearance for the tire chains, but then I remember Sulley Bear's post where his spacers worked loose. Sort of gave second thoughts concerning wheel spacers. :dunno:
 

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OK!!!! I have read all of your replies!! Thanks!!! Not sure I'm convinced, although I appreciate your points of view!! :good2: Especially with a cab.

I do know years ago, on the vintage 300 and 400 series tractors, you could reverse the wheels which increased the width stance, in fact I had mine turned. I'm not sure how much more stable it made the tractor but it made it look meaner!!!:laugh:

I had thought about a set of spacers, to provide more clearance for the tire chains, but then I remember Sulley Bear's post where his spacers worked loose. Sort of gave second thoughts concerning wheel spacers. :dunno:
Ray,
I think that might have been me commenting about someone else's wheel spacers coming loose. If I recall, it was a member from either New York or PA, who had them installed by a dealer, but not his primary dealer. It seems like they might have been installed by a small residential dealer that also sells UTV's and Side by sides, perhaps more so that SCUTS. Then his tractor sat for a few weeks out in the snow, with the one real wheel off, (drivers side if I recall correctly) until they finally came and retrieved the tractor on a flat bed roll back and took it to the shop and repaired it. It certainly was quite the fiasco..........

In fact, I have a set of 3" rear wheel spacers on order right now for the rear and 1.4" for the front are being contemplated. I am not sure why they suggested 1.4" front spacers, but that was what Bro-Tech mentioned in their email reply to me about their spacers.

Hope this helps....

SB
 

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Ray,
I think that might have been me commenting about someone else's wheel spacers coming loose. If I recall, it was a member from either New York or PA, who had them installed by a dealer, but not his primary dealer. It seems like they might have been installed by a small residential dealer that also sells UTV's and Side by sides, perhaps more so that SCUTS. Then his tractor sat for a few weeks out in the snow, with the one real wheel off, (drivers side if I recall correctly) until they finally came and retrieved the tractor on a flat bed roll back and took it to the shop and repaired it. It certainly was quite the fiasco..........

In fact, I have a set of 3" rear wheel spacers on order right now for the rear and 1.4" for the front are being contemplated. I am not sure why they suggested 1.4" front spacers, but that was what Bro-Tech mentioned in their email reply to me about their spacers.

Hope this helps....

SB
Yes, that was it. I'm sure wheel spacers make the tractor more stable, especially if you have a cab the C of G of the tractor is now higher than it was without the cab.

I guess I personally haven't seen any condition with my 1025R, no cab, where the tractor even started to tip, it always slide.
 

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I really appreciate the input, I will likely go with the Bro-Tek 1.5" to keep lugs from rubbing on BH bracket. Bro-Tek does not list a 2" spacer. I like the Bora but they will be another $45 a pair. Is there any advantage to the Bora over Bro-Tek?
Bro-Tech doesn't list many sizes, such as the 3" which they recommended to me. I think they like building wheel spacers more than web site building, which is fine as I want great wheel spacers and am less concerned about a slick website......

I have a feeling most of those who make these products would rather have a little grease under their nails than finger tip calluses from too much computer typing.....:laugh::lol:

By the way, when I sent Bro-Tech an email, as they requested, they responded and included shipping at a reduced cost of $30 for the first order. Make sure to check with them and any others for shipping costs and any specials or discounts they might be offering.

As far as the brand, I think that is largely a matter of personal preference. Just NO CHINA **** (stuff) for me, and I think most of the brands mentioned on this thread are made right here in the USA as they should be.......:good2: Also, top grade fasteners are important.........which the brands mentioned seem to all include as well..............

Wheel spacers aren't complicated but it is important they are made correctly and installed properly. The thread both Ray and I mentioned about the guy who had the wheel come off appeared to be a direct result of improper installation, not a defective product. Properly torquing the wheel spacers and triple checking them are important. Then, properly torquing the wheels to the spacer are also critical. Follow the directions carefully and you will be fine................
 

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Yes, that was it. I'm sure wheel spacers make the tractor more stable, especially if you have a cab the C of G of the tractor is now higher than it was without the cab.

I guess I personally haven't seen any condition with my 1025R, no cab, where the tractor even started to tip, it always slide.
Ray, no question, the cab changes the machine significantly. My 10 acre field is quite "tippy" from side to side when mowing with the Frontier RC2048 rear mower. That incessant side to side tossing of the operator is very hard on my lower back after nearly a dozen spine surgeries and lumbur fusions and hardware installs.......I am hoping to minimize the side to side tossing, which really causes me so pain each time, to the point when I finish, I spend two hours laying on large ice packs trying to get my back calmed down again. That's why I am widening my rear stance of the 1025r by 6". Plus it makes the machine even look meaner.....:laugh::lol: with the tires hanging outside of the fenders.

Here is an area on my property which I must travel which is quite dicey with the tractor and cab, due to the side sloping hill, the area always being in the shade and often wet, leaves and other issues, etc. etc....This area is the one where I hope to see the greatest improvement with the wheel spacers......Plus, I have 120 tons of crushed aggregate which is going to be delivered and then spread and an actual road surface built here. The pictures don't show the slopes and challenges the way you feel them on the machine. Even going up and down this on my ExMark Zero Turn, which has a completely different center of gravity is nerve racking. You can see from the tracks how I stay off to the one side, but that also puts those wheels up the slope of the side hill. This area is really interesting in the fall when deep in wet leaves....:laugh::lol:

It's located where people can drive down this access area, onto the lower property and 40 acres along the river without me seeing them or being aware they are down there. I have avoided "building the road" as I don't want to encourage others to use this. Once the crushed aggregate is down and spread, I will likely have to put up either a gate or a chain and posts to discourage people who shouldn't be down there from going down there......Just last week I encountered some "yutes" down there with a 4x4 looking for a place to "party"........Time to look elsewhere, kids....:nunu:
 

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Bro-Tek's are great wheel spacers. I have the 3 inch spacers on my 1025R w/Mauser cab. Quality is top notch.

Richard at Bro Tek has all sorts of sizes that he doesn't list on his website, (as Sulley mentioned). Along with several emails, I had a nice long phone chat with Richard regarding the spacers et al.

Good guy and company to deal with.

Edit: I will have another follow up on the Bro-Tek spacers installed on the 1025R w/Mauser cab soon.
 

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I really appreciate the input, I will likely go with the Bro-Tek 1.5" to keep lugs from rubbing on BH bracket. Bro-Tek does not list a 2" spacer. I like the Bora but they will be another $45 a pair. Is there any advantage to the Bora over Bro-Tek?
Not positive, but I think the difference is that Bora is made from Alcoa alimunum and Bro-tech are steel. Don't know if there is any advantage to either. Also, I think they both are of hub-centric design, which I prefer for better fit, with less chance of vibrations and coming loose.

I only have them on the rear of my 1025R. The front axle is on a pivot, so until you have reached it's maximum pivot point, it offers no advantage in additional side to side stability. If your beyond the maximum pivot on the front axle, your probably going to tip over anyways.:dunno: Attached is a picture with my 48" core aerator mounted.

I need something to do today, so I think I'll re-torque the wheels to be on the safe side. Thanks Sulley, for reminding me of that.:munch:
 

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I need something to do today, so I think I'll re-torque the wheels to be on the safe side. Thanks Sulley, for reminding me of that.:munch:
I’ve checked mine 4 times since installing them and they have been tight every time, but I do it anyway because I’d hate to be one of them guys.

Oh, Motorsport Tech offers both steel and aluminum.


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