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2019 1025r
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Newbie here checking in with a quick message to all the Tractor Enthusiasts out there - I now get it!!!

That is all...

Bass

p.s. - All my newbie questions are piling up, I apologize in advance of what is to come...
 

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Don't get rid of your last wheelbarrow unless you like dried concrete in your loader. Around here, the concrete trucks can't legally wash out onto the ground - even on a gravel driveway.
They HAVE to wash out into something like a wheelbarrow. (of course, as soon as he finished, I dumped the wheelbarrow on the gravel driveway about 5 feet from where it had been standing).
 

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LOL. I'm with you guys on totally getting it now (although mine's a 1023E).

I thought that it would be handy. I was wrong - it's indispensable. I'm now not capable of accomplishing my jobs without it and will never go back to not having one.

I'm clearing a hilly, badly overgrown and full of trash 2.4 acre lot. I worked on it for two months before my wife suggested that I probably needed a tractor. :) In the two months since I got it, I've accomplished far more than in those first two months

The increase in my rate of task accomplishment due to the JD is at least a factor of 10. Plus, I'm far less burnt out at the end of each day.

Not insignificantly, I'm less likely to injure myself due to heat stress, back injury, muscle overuse injury, or pushing too hard in general, thereby increasing my opportunity for acute injury. I think that, at my age, this is a not insignificant factor in favor of having one.
 

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Agreed.
I have a mental list of tools that after I had experienced them - wished that I had bought them years earlier. Snowblower, chain saw, tractor + fel, cordless drill etc.
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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Not insignificantly, I'm less likely to injure myself due to heat stress, back injury, muscle overuse injury, or pushing too hard in general, thereby increasing my opportunity for acute injury. I think that, at my age, this is a not insignificant factor in favor of having one.
Just watch out for those darn flying insects with the ability to sting, which seem to be very angry with this high humidity and heat. You can be doing everything right and safely and just the wrong encounter can sure make for an interesting experience or TWO.....

And for those who say "I have been stung before and I am not allergic, so it's not a big deal", be prepared for that to change with the next encounter, because trust me, it can be a totally different experience and result..............

Not only would I not want to be without my 1025r, a bunch of my neighbors also sure want me to keep it. What a great way to handle all of those tasks which used to be manual labor. Add a host of attachments and implements and the list of what the machine can do simply doesn't end......

Looking forward to newbie Bass Hunter's list of questions. Here are some answers to questions he is likely to ask.....

Yes, it can and does.

Yes, you do need pallet forks, even though you may not know it. And pallets are likely to be the thing you use them least often to move, but you will be very glad you have them. There isn't another implement for the SCUTS which brings more practical function and creative task completing ability for less money than pallet forks.

Yes, you will be glad you have the backrest on your pallet forks and will likely regret it if you don't..........

There are plenty of good choices of American made and Canada made pallet forks which are worth the money and should be considered. You don't need to over pay, just don't get any implement merely because its offered with "Free Shipping". You are paying for the shipping, its just already included in the price....

LOW and SLOW, that's how loads are always to be carried.....

Yes, Hooks on the bucket are very helpful and Ken's are the best.

No, don't paint your bucket hooks, but definitely paint the holes you drill into the bucket to mount them.

Those holes in the center of the top edge of the bucket are how the bucket is mounted on the side of the tractor when shipped and nothing more. Don't use those holes to mount hooks as its best to align the mounting of any load bearing attachment point on the bucket with the loader arms, to avoid damaging the bucket, or springing the loader frame when in use.

The FEL is NOT a bull dozer and neither is the 1025r.

Never forget the low ground clearance and when on doubt, DON'T run over any debris you can go around as 9.5" isn't as much in tractor ground clearance as the same dimension is it its other uses.....

If when you drive over bumps, your tractor seat bottoms out, you need two things immediately, Ken's Heavier Seat Springs and the KBar Butt Burrito. Each are found at the links I have provided to save you time. Do a search on GTT to learn how to use these two to end any bottoming out in the seat ever again........or ask the question....


NEVER turn sideways on slopes when the little voice is talking to you. If you don't have a little voice, get incline-o-meters.....and mount one for front to back angles and side to side angles and learn the limits of safe climbing, descending and trans-versing on slopes.

Yes, rear wheel spacers are very helpful and highly recommended. How wide? Depends upon whether you have a MMM or not. If you do NOT have a MMM on your machine, go with 3" wide rear wheel spacers. If you do have a MMM, stick with 1.4" to assure clearnace of anti skalping wheels, etc on the mower deck. Make sure the wheel spacers are machined to align properly on the axle housing centering casting. Buy Brotek and get a great product......

Remember, use 4wd when carrying loads or even have implements on the front and or rear and are going up and down hills as brakes are only on the rear axle.

Start out with a good habit and ALWAYS use diesel fuel treatment in all fuel, year around. You will never regret it, but you are likely to regret not using it. Good brands include Hot Shot Every Day Treatment (EDT), Howe's, Basically, it must be for diesel fuel only and don't use any product which claims to work in both gasoline and diesel as the two fuels are too different.

I will leave the rest of the questions to Bass Hunter to ask........I am sure he will have some......
 

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Congrats on the new tractor and welcome to GTT. I totally agree. The cool part is you will start looking for stuff to do with it. So it’s a win win. No more procrastinating. Get out there and get busy. Have fun and be safe.
 

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2019 1025r
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow, great info. Thanks for taking the time to post all of this! Will be referencing it several times…
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just watch out for those darn flying insects with the ability to sting, which seem to be very angry with this high humidity and heat. You can be doing everything right and safely and just the wrong encounter can sure make for an interesting experience or TWO.....

And for those who say "I have been stung before and I am not allergic, so it's not a big deal", be prepared for that to change with the next encounter, because trust me, it can be a totally different experience and result..............

Not only would I not want to be without my 1025r, a bunch of my neighbors also sure want me to keep it. What a great way to handle all of those tasks which used to be manual labor. Add a host of attachments and implements and the list of what the machine can do simply doesn't end......

Looking forward to newbie Bass Hunter's list of questions. Here are some answers to questions he is likely to ask.....

Yes, it can and does.

Yes, you do need pallet forks, even though you may not know it. And pallets are likely to be the thing you use them least often to move, but you will be very glad you have them. There isn't another implement for the SCUTS which brings more practical function and creative task completing ability for less money than pallet forks.

Yes, you will be glad you have the backrest on your pallet forks and will likely regret it if you don't..........

There are plenty of good choices of American made and Canada made pallet forks which are worth the money and should be considered. You don't need to over pay, just don't get any implement merely because its offered with "Free Shipping". You are paying for the shipping, its just already included in the price....

LOW and SLOW, that's how loads are always to be carried.....

Yes, Hooks on the bucket are very helpful and Ken's are the best.

No, don't paint your bucket hooks, but definitely paint the holes you drill into the bucket to mount them.

Those holes in the center of the top edge of the bucket are how the bucket is mounted on the side of the tractor when shipped and nothing more. Don't use those holes to mount hooks as its best to align the mounting of any load bearing attachment point on the bucket with the loader arms, to avoid damaging the bucket, or springing the loader frame when in use.

The FEL is NOT a bull dozer and neither is the 1025r.

Never forget the low ground clearance and when on doubt, DON'T run over any debris you can go around as 9.5" isn't as much in tractor ground clearance as the same dimension is it its other uses.....

If when you drive over bumps, your tractor seat bottoms out, you need two things immediately, Ken's Heavier Seat Springs and the KBar Butt Burrito. Each are found at the links I have provided to save you time. Do a search on GTT to learn how to use these two to end any bottoming out in the seat ever again........or ask the question....


NEVER turn sideways on slopes when the little voice is talking to you. If you don't have a little voice, get incline-o-meters.....and mount one for front to back angles and side to side angles and learn the limits of safe climbing, descending and trans-versing on slopes.

Yes, rear wheel spacers are very helpful and highly recommended. How wide? Depends upon whether you have a MMM or not. If you do NOT have a MMM on your machine, go with 3" wide rear wheel spacers. If you do have a MMM, stick with 1.4" to assure clearnace of anti skalping wheels, etc on the mower deck. Make sure the wheel spacers are machined to align properly on the axle housing centering casting. Buy Brotek and get a great product......

Remember, use 4wd when carrying loads or even have implements on the front and or rear and are going up and down hills as brakes are only on the rear axle.

Start out with a good habit and ALWAYS use diesel fuel treatment in all fuel, year around. You will never regret it, but you are likely to regret not using it. Good brands include Hot Shot Every Day Treatment (EDT), Howe's, Basically, it must be for diesel fuel only and don't use any product which claims to work in both gasoline and diesel as the two fuels are too different.

I will leave the rest of the questions to Bass Hunter to ask........I am sure he will have some......
Ok, after reading your recommendations and checking out Ken's site, and watching a few TTWT videos, I think I have a plan to outfit my new rig. My use cases I am trying to solve for include the following:

1. Pull small trees/brush out via the bucket and chains.

2. Be able to secure loads in the bucket with chains.

3. Skid some logs out of our woods and down our gravel road - these will be the smaller stuff as I would probably just cut up the bigger stuff where it lies and haul out with a future grapple purchase. In a perfect world, I think I would like to use the 3pt. to lift the log up, but use the drawbar/tow ball point on the tractor (bracket around the PTO) to do the actual pulling on the log (assuming I can figure out how to do this).

4. Use the loader to haul around a few boat trailers and my empty aluminum two axle trailer (empty). I want to use the loader for better visibility to position trailers in the shed and also to be able to pull my sailboat (small 15') up over some ice berms on our shore line as I don't think the 3pt will provide enough lift height.

So after looking at Ken's site, I have my wish list to address each item above, but have some related questions. So for each item above:

1. and 2. Bolt on Grab Hook on each side of the bucket. Would it make more sense to use the Clevis mount as the backer plate or just use regular backer plate and use the G70 Oblong Ring to use with ropes and straps if/when needed. This seems like a perfectly effective approach and would be cheaper than the Clevis mount + other hardware? In a video by Tractor Time With Tim, he recommended 1/4" chain. The 5/16th does work with 1/4 chain so plan on going that route as I like the lighter weight of the chain and it should help me from getting too ambitious with the 1025R. Any other thoughts on chain size to go with these hooks?

3. Right now I have just a ball mounted to the draw bar bracket (not sure what this is really called). on the tractor. I would like to get a receiver hitch mounted there instead. Not sure if there is a bolt on option for this specific bracket or if I would have to have something welded? In either case, I think Ken's BallDog Plus is an ideal solution to hook up a chain for skidding via this bracket on the tractor and would work with either setup I use on the tractor.

4. The easiest approach for getting a receiver on the loader would be using the bucket and a Bolt-On FEL Receiver. But, SulleyBear, you do not recommend using the center part of the loader, is this a bad idea for this use case? Would the backer plate option make it a viable option? I know this location does not put the load point in front of the loader arms, but as it is only being used to push pull trailers, there is less chance to mess up the loader arms from uneven/shifting loads?

Is there a plate or something that is available just to use the loader arms and not the bucket? I guess, something could be rigged up on a pallet fork bracket - which seems to be the best solution. Don't have those yet (just have bolt on the bucket forks right now) and feel like being able to grab onto a trailer either with the bucket or the forks on the tractor would be very convenient, so figure long term it may make sense to have both. Is moving trailers around with the bucket something that works well or is it too cumbersome with the bucket in the mix? Have not done this before, so I don't know what I don't know. Recommendations for best way to meet this use case are appreciated.

Well, that was really long winded, but hopefully folks are patient enough to get through it. Any insights/recommendations are much appreciated. - Would this be better to make a separate post and pull it out of this thread?

Bass
 

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Well, that was really long winded, but hopefully folks are patient enough to get through it. Any insights/recommendations are much appreciated. - Would this be better to make a separate post and pull it out of this thread?

Bass
Given the crickets, I would say that your bolded statement above is the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Given the crickets, I would say that your bolded statement above is the way to go.
Given the crickets, I would say that your bolded statement above is the way to go.
Yeah, seems like the way to go. Ended up just placing an order for the hooks and related accessories for using chains with the bucket. Still noodling on the Receiver hitch options. Thinking a receiver on a Pallet Fork rack is the best approach. May just use a Cross-Drawbar for towing trailers off the 3point - provides more turning room and my trailers are not very heavy…
 
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Yeah, seems like the way to go. Ended up just placing an order for the hooks and related accessories for using chains with the bucket.................... and my trailers are not very heavy…
I got the bucket chain hooks, and thats how I move my 'not so heavy' trailers. Put one safety chain into either hook, and the coupler is inside the bucket, under the top lip.

I move my 'future' tractor trailer (~500# now) and my cycle/cart enclosed trailer ( ~2400# with cart in it) in our drive on slight/moderate slopes no problem.
Moved a man lift I borrowed also, it was closer to 3500# and was about all the little tractor would do. It was a bit sketchy when I went out back on the lawn to do the south side of the house. I was VERY aware that if it were to start downhill, I would be a rider and NOT a driver. :poop: But that was more a weight issue, rather than the towing method.

All with the safety chains on the trailer and bucket hooks. Little 'swing about', but easily controlled.

I was looking for a ball mount solution before, now I dont feel a need for one. Try this with your new bucket hooks and see if it fits your needs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Definitely will try the chain approach for sure. My first use will be dragging our small sailboat up over the ice berms shoreline at the cabin. The loader would be nice to have the higher lift capability than what the 3pt can do…
 

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Just watch out for those darn flying insects with the ability to sting, which seem to be very angry with this high humidity and heat. You can be doing everything right and safely and just the wrong encounter can sure make for an interesting experience or TWO.....

And for those who say "I have been stung before and I am not allergic, so it's not a big deal", be prepared for that to change with the next encounter, because trust me, it can be a totally different experience and result..............

Not only would I not want to be without my 1025r, a bunch of my neighbors also sure want me to keep it. What a great way to handle all of those tasks which used to be manual labor. Add a host of attachments and implements and the list of what the machine can do simply doesn't end......

Looking forward to newbie Bass Hunter's list of questions. Here are some answers to questions he is likely to ask.....

Yes, it can and does.

Yes, you do need pallet forks, even though you may not know it. And pallets are likely to be the thing you use them least often to move, but you will be very glad you have them. There isn't another implement for the SCUTS which brings more practical function and creative task completing ability for less money than pallet forks.

Yes, you will be glad you have the backrest on your pallet forks and will likely regret it if you don't..........

There are plenty of good choices of American made and Canada made pallet forks which are worth the money and should be considered. You don't need to over pay, just don't get any implement merely because its offered with "Free Shipping". You are paying for the shipping, its just already included in the price....

LOW and SLOW, that's how loads are always to be carried.....

Yes, Hooks on the bucket are very helpful and Ken's are the best.

No, don't paint your bucket hooks, but definitely paint the holes you drill into the bucket to mount them.

Those holes in the center of the top edge of the bucket are how the bucket is mounted on the side of the tractor when shipped and nothing more. Don't use those holes to mount hooks as its best to align the mounting of any load bearing attachment point on the bucket with the loader arms, to avoid damaging the bucket, or springing the loader frame when in use.

The FEL is NOT a bull dozer and neither is the 1025r.

Never forget the low ground clearance and when on doubt, DON'T run over any debris you can go around as 9.5" isn't as much in tractor ground clearance as the same dimension is it its other uses.....

If when you drive over bumps, your tractor seat bottoms out, you need two things immediately, Ken's Heavier Seat Springs and the KBar Butt Burrito. Each are found at the links I have provided to save you time. Do a search on GTT to learn how to use these two to end any bottoming out in the seat ever again........or ask the question....


NEVER turn sideways on slopes when the little voice is talking to you. If you don't have a little voice, get incline-o-meters.....and mount one for front to back angles and side to side angles and learn the limits of safe climbing, descending and trans-versing on slopes.

Yes, rear wheel spacers are very helpful and highly recommended. How wide? Depends upon whether you have a MMM or not. If you do NOT have a MMM on your machine, go with 3" wide rear wheel spacers. If you do have a MMM, stick with 1.4" to assure clearnace of anti skalping wheels, etc on the mower deck. Make sure the wheel spacers are machined to align properly on the axle housing centering casting. Buy Brotek and get a great product......

Remember, use 4wd when carrying loads or even have implements on the front and or rear and are going up and down hills as brakes are only on the rear axle.

Start out with a good habit and ALWAYS use diesel fuel treatment in all fuel, year around. You will never regret it, but you are likely to regret not using it. Good brands include Hot Shot Every Day Treatment (EDT), Howe's, Basically, it must be for diesel fuel only and don't use any product which claims to work in both gasoline and diesel as the two fuels are too different.

I will leave the rest of the questions to Bass Hunter to ask........I am sure he will have some......
I have had mine for a year and a half and have not needed pallet forks yet, I should buy more stuff maybe?
 

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The 1025R is probably a better choice over a BX, but my 1025R between the 4010 (2019E now if made) and 2025R was a real lemon, and I really need the ground clearance of the 4010, 2025R and now B2601. The 2601 is a far better tractor than the 3 JDs but for the reverse treadle pedal. Using fully 1/3 less fuel is one of the "bests".
 
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