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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have a 1025R that has been in storage for about 7 years without maintenance performed and with about 49 hours on it. Recently, I had to move it on short notice and after replacing the battery and nothing else (old fuel still in tank), the motor fired right up and I was able to move and relocate it. It ran for about 5 minutes, shut it down, and then I stored it for another couple of weeks before being able to get to it and change fluids and give it a general going over prior to putting it to use.
Once I was able to get back to it, I again attempted to crank it and found that it would not run. The battery is fine, it cranks well, no messages, but it will not fire. After checking the fuel I have found that it smelled varnished, so I drained the fuel out of the tank and drained the filter. I put in fresh fuel and attempted to crank. It still will not start so I'm assuming that I need to flush forward of the filter to the injectors. Unfortunately, I'm not sure how to do that with this engine and I can't seem to find documents on how the Yanmar engine is configured.
My assumption is that the motor cranks with initial fuel that was not contaminated, but once I ran it that burned out and began on poor quality fuel. Once shut off it would no longer start because the bad fuel finally made it to the injectors. So, how do I purge the system at this point? I'd be grateful for any help provided. Thank you!
 

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The little filter under the floorboard on the left side is probably stopped up. Have you checked that one?
 

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Time for all new filters, fluids and fuel. Every filter and every fluid. Hopefully nothin got damaged when starting on the blind.
 

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Did you replace both fuel filters?
 

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You gotta pull the lines off the injectors but without fuel from the pump you can’t flush them unless you blow them out with air
 

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Would help also if you can provide year of machine
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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I bought the filter with the float bowl, but none of the others. I'll pick some up and replace all. Anything I can do to purge up to the injectors?
I bought the filter with the float bowl, but none of the others. I'll pick some up and replace all. Anything I can do to purge up to the injectors?
I strongly advise you to keep your efforts to start the machine on the likely problem, which is also a simple repair.

Replace the fuel filter under the floorboard in the fuel line just outside of the fuel tank.

Until this is completed, I would stop all efforts to start the machine.

I certainly wouldn't "crack open" ANYTHING in the fuel injection system as the machine is designed to self purge air and also the amount of fuel in the system isn't the root cause of why it won't start. These fuel injection systems operate under very high pressures and I wouldn't advise opening anything which is a steel line unless you are a proficient technician. Rubber lines are low pressure, steel lines are high pressure. I can't recall the last time someone needed to open a steel line on a fuel system to get one of these machines running. It's extremely rare such action is required.

Be patient and make sure to heat up the glow plugs each time you try to start the engine. Simply cranking the engine like a gasoline vehicle won't lead to it starting as it needs heat in the cylinder to aid the initial combustion process. The glow plugs provide that heat and once it does start, then the fuel system will likely be fine.

Just be advised, changing the filter in the separator at the engine introduced air into the fuel system and it takes some cranking to rid the system of that air. Also, expect the engine to start briefly, quit and run very rough for a minute or two once it does fire off..........These small Yanmar engines are "self bleeding" on the diesel fuel injection system and it does take several minutes of PATIENT engine cranking to get the air out and the fuel back through the system, once the filters have all been replaced.

But lets stick with the basics for now.

1. New under floor fuel filter.

2. Patient cranking of the engine allowing the glow plugs to heat up each time.

3. Don't crank the engine more than 10 seconds at a time between giving the starter a break as you can over heat the starter if you just keep cranking it.

4. Also, even though the battery is new, make sure the efforts to start it aren't drawing the voltage down where it will make starting the tractor more challenging. Every glow plug heating cycle and every cranking attempt deplete some battery power.

If the tractor ran for several minutes, it consumed fuel which was in the injection system and likely fuel from the tank as well. The pump running and the injector pump return line to the fuel tank likely stirred up what was in the tank and led to the under floor filter being plugged. Keep in mind water is heavier than diesel and settles to the bottom first, which is where the under floor filter is located.............
 

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Do you hear the electric fuel pump running? Do you hear a loud click when you first turn on the Key, if not the fuel shut off solenoid is not activating. This is controlled by one of the relays in the fuse panel. The other two relays control the Glow Plugs and the Starter. You should not have to crack the fuel lines at the injectors, the system is self bleeding. It will start and run very rough until it has purged the last air from the injectors. Unless the fuel is badly contaminated, seven years should not kill it, it will not be at its prime, but should not stop the machine from running. For your information I had to replace both my Glow Plug Relay and the Fuel Shut Off Solenoid Relay. They clicked when activated, but would not pass power. All three relays are the same and believe it or not, they were cheaper at the JD Dealer than the Auto Parts Store.
 

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Don't know if you did this already, but check the fuel level in the bowl with that has the filter. When the bowl is empty, like after changing the filter or draining off any water that collected. Don't start the engine until you see fuel completely fill the bowl. You do that by turning the key to the first notch and listen for the fuel pump clicking. If the line is clear from the tank to the bowl, you will see fuel filling the bowl. After that, the engine is ready to crank and start. There will still be a small amount of air to purge so the engine will run rough for a few seconds. That is the normal procedure assuming nothing else is wrong somewhere. Also, check to make sure the fuel shutoff petcock is in the on position. It is located on top of the bowl.
 

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That fuel tank has 7 year old fuel in it.
There might be more in your fuel tank than what you think....algae.
The tank and lines might need to be flushed out too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
But lets stick with the basics for now.

1. New under floor fuel filter.

2. Patient cranking of the engine allowing the glow plugs to heat up each time.

3. Don't crank the engine more than 10 seconds at a time between giving the starter a break as you can over heat the starter if you just keep cranking it.

4. Also, even though the battery is new, make sure the efforts to start it aren't drawing the voltage down where it will make starting the tractor more challenging. Every glow plug heating cycle and every cranking attempt deplete some battery power.

If the tractor ran for several minutes, it consumed fuel which was in the injection system and likely fuel from the tank as well. The pump running and the injector pump return line to the fuel tank likely stirred up what was in the tank and led to the under floor filter being plugged. Keep in mind water is heavier than diesel and settles to the bottom first, which is where the under floor filter is located.............
Thanks for the detailed reply. I bought the smaller filter today and will replace both filters tomorrow and give it another go. I put the battery on the charger after the first attempts and have placed it on the charger for tomorrow's attempts. I appreciate the info regarding the purging of air and will do as you recommend and patiently crank ensuring the glow plug light has been extinguished. I had been doing this already, but still good to hear that I was doing it correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Do you hear the electric fuel pump running? Do you hear a loud click when you first turn on the Key, if not the fuel shut off solenoid is not activating. This is controlled by one of the relays in the fuse panel. The other two relays control the Glow Plugs and the Starter. You should not have to crack the fuel lines at the injectors, the system is self bleeding. It will start and run very rough until it has purged the last air from the injectors. Unless the fuel is badly contaminated, seven years should not kill it, it will not be at its prime, but should not stop the machine from running. For your information I had to replace both my Glow Plug Relay and the Fuel Shut Off Solenoid Relay. They clicked when activated, but would not pass power. All three relays are the same and believe it or not, they were cheaper at the JD Dealer than the Auto Parts Store.
I do hear the fuel pump running, but not sure about a loud click when I first turn on the key. I'll check tomorrow to see if this is happening after I replace the fuel filters. Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Don't know if you did this already, but check the fuel level in the bowl with that has the filter. When the bowl is empty, like after changing the filter or draining off any water that collected. Don't start the engine until you see fuel completely fill the bowl. You do that by turning the key to the first notch and listen for the fuel pump clicking. If the line is clear from the tank to the bowl, you will see fuel filling the bowl. After that, the engine is ready to crank and start. There will still be a small amount of air to purge so the engine will run rough for a few seconds. That is the normal procedure assuming nothing else is wrong somewhere. Also, check to make sure the fuel shutoff petcock is in the on position. It is located on top of the bowl.
I did check to make sure it was filled before starting. I'll do that again once filters are changed out. Thanks!
 

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Hey guys, am I incorrect in thinking that the larger fuel filter manifold with the fuel shutoff also has a bleeder screw to help bleed air out of the system? I know the fuel filter mount on my old JD has one and it looks almost identical.
If it were me, I'd crack the bleeder screw while the key and electric pump were on until the air bubbles were purged out.
 

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Been a while since I changed my filter, but I don't remember any air bleed on the filter housing. My tractor is a 2012 1026R so should be almost identical to your 2013 version.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So, with filters in hand, I replaced the one next to the engine, but I don't have enough space to get to the small filter under the floor. My tractor has the mower attached and there is very little room to get at it. Is there a way to remove the mower without running the engine?
I checked all fuses and I also checked to see if the fuel solenoid made the "clunk" noise when turning on the ignition and it did. I could also hear the pump working and the filter bowl filled up relatively quickly while do so. I thought the pump would stop clicking, but it continued on for quite a while and did not stop until I turned the key off (purging?). I did not attempt to start the engine per the suggestion above regarding small filter replacement. Since I couldn't do anything else, I decided to rmove the air filter and will replace it once I get the small fuel filter replaced.
One more thing, I noticed that there is a small filter canister against the firewall behind the engine. Is this a third fuel filter? Also, I see that there are two fuel lines after the filter that goes to the engine, an upper and a lower line. Which one feeds the engine and which one is the return? I'm assuming the second line is for purgine, yes?
 

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Does the pump continue to run because it is pumping the fuel through a circular loop, from the fuel tank towards the engine, and then back into the fuel tank via the fuel return line in a closed system?
 

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I could also hear the pump working and the filter bowl filled up relatively quickly while do so. I thought the pump would stop clicking, but it continued on for quite a while and did not stop until I turned the key off (purging?).
The lift pump continues to run (i.e. click) as long as the key is on. You just can't hear it once the engine is running.

One more thing, I noticed that there is a small filter canister against the firewall behind the engine. Is this a third fuel filter? Also, I see that there are two fuel lines after the filter that goes to the engine, an upper and a lower line. Which one feeds the engine and which one is the return? I'm assuming the second line is for purgine, yes?
Can you post a photo of this cannister? As far as I know the 1-series does not have a spin-on cannister style fuel filter (as do most of the 2-series).
 
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