Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Sorry if this has been discussed but I couldn't find anything when I searched.
2015 1025r. When I turn the key the all the lights on the dash flash and you can here and feel the fuel pump clicking. I put a battery booster pack on it and it started. Later I forgot to put into neutral when I got off. Same thing when I went to start it booster and it started. When I parked it I noticed it had reset my hr meter. I shut it off and exact same thing all happened again booster and it started. That was all 3 days ago. Today I pulled it in the garage and using a booster pack because the light flashing and clicking was all happening again. I checked the alternator working good, load tested battery good. So I looked for rubbing wires nothing. So help me please. Ideas to look at or questions to help trouble shoot.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,620 Posts
How are you load testing the battery?

What is the static battery voltage?

What is the battery voltage when turning the key to crank position?
 
  • Like
Reactions: kylew

·
Registered
Joined
·
769 Posts
Seems like it ought to be a dead battery if it starts every time with a booster pack.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
How are you load testing the battery?

What is the static battery voltage?

What is the battery voltage when turning the key to crank position?
I have a battery tester that shows static voltage, a switch to put a load on the battery usually do it for about 10 secs and it shows what the charging system is putting while its running.

13v static
just under 13 after load test
8v when turning the key
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,001 Posts
I have a battery tester that shows static voltage, a switch to put a load on the battery usually do it for about 10 secs and it shows what the charging system is putting while its running.

13v static
just under 13 after load test
8v when turning the key
And there is your answer right there.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,055 Posts
It's battery time........the battery is 5 years old if its the original.

If the battery load tester is not showing the battery as weak, I question the load it is actually putting on the battery when testing.

Also 10 seconds ( a true 10 count) is a long time for a battery load if its a TRUE load test. Usually, you can apply the test load and see the battery stressed in just a few seconds which indicates the bad cell(s). The ultimate real world load test is always turning the key............

If your charging system is putting out the power needed to charge the battery (should be 12.9 volts +) where is the power going if the battery isn't the problem?

Having to use a jump pack twice or more after running the vehicle means it's new battery time probably 98% of the time, if not more.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kylew and Tomfive

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,620 Posts
I have a battery tester that shows static voltage, a switch to put a load on the battery usually do it for about 10 secs and it shows what the charging system is putting while its running.

13v static
just under 13 after load test
8v when turning the key
There ya go... BATTERY!
 
  • Like
Reactions: PJR832

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,055 Posts
Thanks I was thinking battery was kinda second guessing myself for some reason.
No problem and make sure to let us know once you have gotten the tractor back 100%.......

Make sure to buy a battery which is not only sized right physically, and with the Cold Cranking Amps, but one which can handle the vibration of the diesel tractors. That might mean considering the battery from the Deere Dealer or a gell type of battery, which are expensive, but I had great luck with them in my race cars. I could use a battery physically the size of the garden tractor battery to start a 1,400 hp race car and we never had battery issues.......

At the minimum, get the battery from the Deere Dealer designed to tolerate the use conditions. Don't be tempted to find a low cost alternative at Auto Zone, etc. as its very unlikely to give you 5 years of service in the tractor with the vibration and being shaken and bounced around like they are when secured in the battery compartment.........

Also, don't use a Deep Cycle battery in the tractor as it doesn't cycle the battery the way a deep cycle battery is intended and designed. Deep cycle batteries are built to have big demand draws and then a recharge and more big demand draws and another recharge, such as when running a winch, or boat trolling motor, etc.

Yes, the Deere dealer batteries are more expensive than other choices, but it's because they are built to tolerate the stresses of the tractor which are quite different in internal construction of the plates, etc, than a typical car or SUV battery.

Good luck and stay in touch with GTT.......:good2:
 
  • Like
Reactions: kylew and Tomfive

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,859 Posts
Buy a new battery
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
New battery time. Replace mine couple of years ago. Found one at advance auto with correct dimensions and cca that fit in the battery area. Saved me some $$$ by cross reference and not having to go to dealer.
Also crossed referenced head light this year and found same bulbs at advance auto for 1/2 the price as dealer for replacement bulb.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top