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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
It seems a few owners haven't gotten their new 1 series tractors equipped with either the 54 or 60D mower setup correctly. This will explain how to do it yourself for the best possible mower performance!:good2: Most if not all of this information can be found in the John Deere Owner's Manuals for the mower and the tractor. The procedure is the same for the 54" and 60" decks, mechanical or independent lift.:read There is one additional step for mechanical lift equipped tractors. More on that later...

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First you're going to need a few tools. A 1 1/8" wrench, a tape measure or better yet the JD mower leveling gauge p/n AM130907. The tractor needs to be parked on a smooth and level surface for all of these adjustments.

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-This step is for mechanical lift equipped tractors only- To adjust MMM rockshaft lift strap (located between 3PH rockshaft and MMM rockshaft behind left rear wheel) you remove the mower and remove the hair pin clips and pins (D) to disconnect the lift links (E) from both lift arms. Raise the 3PH fully. Rotate mower cut height knob to lock position. Remove left rear wheel. (You might be able to skip this if you can reach the 3 bolts on the lifting strap.) Loosen the three bolts on the lift strap. Rotate mid mount rockshaft (B) forward until there is a small gap (A) between the the height cam (C) and mid mount rockshaft (B). Move lift strap forward to the end of travel slot and tighten the three bolts. (I'd use 1/16" to 1/8" for a goal for this gap.) Reinstall left rear wheel and mower.

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First you want to adjust the side lift links (E) for maximum lift. To do this you'll want to start the tractor and raise the mower all the way. Rotate the mower height adjustment knob to the lock position. Now look at the mower height cam (C) above the left rear mower latch. It's just behind the left rear tire. You want to see a gap at "A". I've found that a gap of about 1/8" is perfect.

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To get this gap set right you first need to unlock all anti-scalp wheels, turn the mower height adjustment knob to the "install" position, and then lower the deck to the ground. Then remove the hair pin clips and pins (D) and adjust both links (E) up equally. Now you need to raise the mower fully and check for the gap (A) between the height cam (C) and the rock shaft arm (B). Repeat this process until you get close to 1/8".

Here is the gap on my tractor. The next picture shows the mower resting on the height cam "lock" position.

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Now we are going to adjust side to side level. Set your mower height adjustment knob to your desired mowing height and lower your mower. Measure your blade height and adjust the same side links to achieve level within 1/8" to 1/4". I was able to achieve the same measurement on both sides. I usually mow at 3" and marked the scale accordingly.

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After you've set level side to side, recheck your maximum height setting. Here is my tractor at full travel, mower resting on the lock position, and install position.

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To adjust front to rear level we'll need your mower at your desired mowing height. Measure a blade from the front and at the rear. It doesn't matter which blade. The optimal setting is 1/8" to 1/4" front lower than the rear. This reduces friction on the rear of the blades and make the front of the blade do all of the cutting and discharging. The front draft arms will adjust front to rear leveling. First lower the deck to the install position and loosen the rear draft arm nuts with the 1 1/8" wrench. (The nuts closest to the mower.) It may help to drive the tractor off of the mower just to loosen the rear nuts. Raise the mower back to the desired mowing height. Tighten the front nuts the same amount (it helps to count flats) to raise the front of the deck. Loosening lowers the front of the deck. Double check your front to rear level once you got the draft arm adjustment nuts tight.

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The Auto-Connect carrier bearing needs to be adjusted for easy connection as well. If you remove the mower it will be easier. Lower the mower/mower lift arms all the way to the install position. There is an adjustment bolt under the bearing to adjust for between perpendicular to the ground to leaning ever so slightly forward. I found this makes for the best connection. (I was unable to find anything from JD regarding this adjustment. If you know differently, please post it so this can be corrected)

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Lastly you need to adjust your gauge wheels for the proper mowing height. In my case the pin goes into the top hole. That gives about 3/8" clearance between the wheels and the ground.

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Now it's time to go mow your yard and enjoy your tractor!:thumbup1gif:
 

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Great post Jason:good2: Very informative and well done.:drinks:
 
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Great post Jason:good2: Very informative and well done.:drinks:
I agree totally with Jeff. Very well done. :good2:

I got about half of this done a week ago but then got tired of rolling around on my garage floor with the mower deck. :nunu:

Now, with your pictorial guide, I feel I can finish the job and get the deck front to rear adjustment made correctly.

Thanks! :cheers:
 
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To get this gap set right you first need to unlock all anti-scalp wheels, turn the mower height adjustment knob to the "install" position, and then lower the deck to the ground. Then remove the hair pin clips and pins (D) and adjust both links (E) up equally. Now you need to raise the mower fully and check for the gap (A) between the height cam (C) and the rock shaft arm (B). Repeat this process until you get close to 1/8".
Ok?

So what do the three bolts on the yellow zinc plated link between the 3PH rockshaft and the mid rockshaft do?

You should be able to remove, and throw away link E and have no effect on gap A...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok?

So what do the three bolts on the yellow zinc plated link between the 3PH rockshaft and the mid rockshaft do?

You should be able to remove, and throw away link E and have no effect on gap A...
The linkage between the rockshafts only exists on mechanical lift mowers and may need to be adjusted for maximum mower lift. I have independent lift so I couldn't add any pics or share any experience adjusting it. I would adjust this linkage with the lift links disconnected and the 3 point fully raised, then adjust it to get your gap set. After that adjust the links to get maximum mower lift without the lift arms contacting the frame.

The gap is effected by the lift links when the lift arms contact the frame before the rockshaft runs out of travel. My tractor suffered from this. I had to lengthen the links to allow more travel on the rockshaft.

Hope this makes sense. :good2: You brought up some great points. I'll revise the OP to reflect it. Thanks Xskier! :hi:


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Ahh, the independent lift kit. Deere's miracle of engineering to allow us 3PH control while controlling the MMM. I've never seen one, so I'm not familiar with your set up. Good write up, as for me my MMM will lay dormant for a while. No grass here to cut, and I REALLY want to know what it's like to mow with a 1026R.
 

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Independent lift ?

Sorry guys, but I'm confused. Am I missing something on my 1026R. I lift the auto connect mmm with the tph lever on the right side of the seat. What is this independent lift, and will it keep my tph from moving with my mmm? Maybe when I get back to my shop, I can pull the manuals and find what I'm looking for. Please let me know if I am missing something even better about my R.
Thanks KHOP
P.S. Does anyone know the part number for the independent lift kit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Independent lift is a hydraulic lift cylinder for the MMM. It connects to one of the QD'S used for the loader. You can't use the loader and independent lift at the same time. The kit is around $450ish IIRC and is much cheaper when you buy the tractor due to you don't have to buy the mechanical lift hardware for the mower. The only advantage of the independent lift is that you can use the 3PH with an implement while the mower is installed and/or in use. Most owners will not have a need for this.

I don't have the P/N handy, but all the information is available on John Deere's build your own website.


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Jason you can use the loader half way right? You can lift it, just no bucket curl?

Thats the only reason I didnt opt for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jason you can use the loader half way right? You can lift it, just no bucket curl?

Thats the only reason I didnt opt for that.
That is correct. You have to disconnect the yellow QD for the loader curl circuit to use the hydraulic lift. If you aren't using the lift, you can leave the mower on and in the lock position, reconnect the loader QD and use the FEL. I find it too quick and easy to remove the mower and install FEL and vice versa, so it's not a big deal. When I spec'd my tractor I was under the impression that the independent kit made the mower lift totally independent. I had no idea that it used the loader QD. One day I might make it a real independent lift.:laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update

Updated the procedure to include adjusting the lift strap on mechanical lift equipped tractors. :thumbup1gif:

Thanks XSKIER!:drinks:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry guys, but I'm confused. Am I missing something on my 1026R. I lift the auto connect mmm with the tph lever on the right side of the seat. What is this independent lift, and will it keep my tph from moving with my mmm? Maybe when I get back to my shop, I can pull the manuals and find what I'm looking for. Please let me know if I am missing something even better about my R.
Thanks KHOP
P.S. Does anyone know the part number for the independent lift kit?
P/N LVB26043 $619 as a separate kit, or $179 when ordered with the mower. Straight from JD's build your own site.:hi:
 

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Wow! Awesome right up!! Don't have a 1 series, but there's some great info in here - found myself reading through it.
 

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I appreciate this post and the many others on this forum that share knowledge on a broad range of topics.
This will be a wonderful resource for me when setting up my 1026R.
Hopefully I will get mine Saturday and get some pics up. Then you can all congratulate me on my wise decision:laugh:
 

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Having just gotten a new 1026r, it is interesting to me to see the comments regarding the "mechanical" vs "independent" setups. I used the mower for the first time yesterday and noticed that, since I have the mechanical connections ( off of the TPH ), I can't mow with any kind of "implement" ( i.e. ball hitch or ballast box ) attached or it will drag on the ground when I lower the deck. Thinking that I needed the independent setup, I looked here only to discover that it robs some of the connections needed for the loader. I now feel better about the mechanical choice as I will need both the FEL and mower at the same time and disco'ing the connections every time I want to use either seems like a bad choice. As always, I am amazed at the amount of info out there for this stuff.
 

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My New 1023 MMDeck setup

Hi Guys:
New to forum and this is a great place for information. I should have subscribed and started reading before I bought mine last weekend! Just a little bummed out about the interfering loader stand to frame front issue as mine has that. I was looking at pictures toady of my mower with me mowing and I thought my deck looked low because I was mowing all the way up. So I looked over the deck manual and saw the same diagram of the orientations and gap measurement for max deck lift. I was very confused because with my knob in the lock position , my spindle is not in the orientation shown to measure gap, it's like facing the other way by 120 degrees or so. I have put about 2 hours on it and the sales guy delivered it and he/we connected the deck up. I went through this thread and something is not correct with my setup. I will contact the dealer in the morning and my question is, should I not expect to have my tractor delivered and setup correctly? I really don't want to proceed because the knob and shaft are not oriented correctly and I don't want to damage anything. I'm not to impressed so far :-(

CHill
 

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Chill,

I've had my 1026R for about a week now and I love it. Yes, the FEL stand sets firmly against the bottom corner of the front frame when installed on the tractor. However, the tractor frame is actually cut out along the bottom edge so the FEL stand can only contact about 3" on either side of the cutout. The paint on the FEL stand is only marred in 4 places - each about 1/4" square. So I don't see that as a big issue.

Yes, you should expect your dealer to set up your attachments correctly. He should resolve any issues promptly. I suggest you call him before attempting to fix it yourself.
 

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Outdoorguy,

My new 1026R has the mechanical link to the TPH also. This works great for me because I don't need to use any rear attachments while mowing. In fact, I like to keep the tractor as light as possible when cutting the grass so the FEL is removed for that job.

I find myself removing the MMM after the mowing is finished because it's so quick and easy to do. Right now, there are no impliments on my tractor because I'm going to check the little diesel over later today ... just for the heck of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi Guys:
New to forum and this is a great place for information. I should have subscribed and started reading before I bought mine last weekend! Just a little bummed out about the interfering loader stand to frame front issue as mine has that. I was looking at pictures toady of my mower with me mowing and I thought my deck looked low because I was mowing all the way up. So I looked over the deck manual and saw the same diagram of the orientations and gap measurement for max deck lift. I was very confused because with my knob in the lock position , my spindle is not in the orientation shown to measure gap, it's like facing the other way by 120 degrees or so. I have put about 2 hours on it and the sales guy delivered it and he/we connected the deck up. I went through this thread and something is not correct with my setup. I will contact the dealer in the morning and my question is, should I not expect to have my tractor delivered and setup correctly? I really don't want to proceed because the knob and shaft are not oriented correctly and I don't want to damage anything. I'm not to impressed so far :-(

CHill
You should definitely expect your equipment to be adjusted and ready to use straight from the dealer. Unfortunately what you describe happens fairly often. Giving them the opportunity to get it right is a great idea.:good2:

It sounds to me like your lift strap (behind the left wheel connecting the 3PH to the mower lift rockshaft) and maybe the lift links are out of adjustment. The mower height knob has me a little baffled. When you raise the mower all the way can you rotate the knob all the way around? It should be able to spin in either direction without stopping when the mower is all the way up. If not. then the lift links and lift strap are for sure in need of adjustment.
 

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You should definitely expect your equipment to be adjusted and ready to use straight from the dealer. Unfortunately what you describe happens fairly often. Giving them the opportunity to get it right is a great idea.:good2:

It sounds to me like your lift strap (behind the left wheel connecting the 3PH to the mower lift rockshaft) and maybe the lift links are out of adjustment. The mower height knob has me a little baffled. When you raise the mower all the way can you rotate the knob all the way around? It should be able to spin in either direction without stopping when the mower is all the way up. If not. then the lift links and lift strap are for sure in need of adjustment.
The dealer really wanted this back today to make it right. I went in there knowing how the deck needed adjusting , thanks to this thread. I'll get it back on Monday and that should be some good mowing weather!. I did not get a chance to speak with the mechanic who realigned the shaft/knob so not sure what he did. You understood perfectly what I was trying to describing and the lift strap was preventing a free spinning condition at full lift. I think it accidentally got delivered without being serviced. I saw no evidence of a wrench anywhere. I'm quite sure it will be perfect when I get it back! I'll keep posting on my progress with this little giant.
Thank you again.
Chris
 
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