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Sorry about that, I don't know why some pictures show up as attachments and others inline, I uploaded them all the same way. I'll try making them a little smaller here, maybe it's a size thing.

Pics in this order: My initial bad gap, my finished good gap, my strap installed wrong, my strap re-installed right, and a screen grab from a manual posted in another thread here showing this strap installed correctly. Here's a link to that thread with the manual but it is an attachment also of a PDF file so don't know if you will be able to see it or not.

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/13713-more-deck-problems-2.html#post132653
So is this the correct way to install the strap? In looking at JD Parts diagram, they show it installed the incorrect way in the parts listing.
White Text Line art Line Diagram
 

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Well quick update on my experience. My mower height knob would not go past 3.25", no where near 4" or the lock. Looking at the cam it was getting bound up. Had dealer stop over and he was starting to mess with the everything except what he should have been doing. I stop him, bring out the laptop and pull up the PDF file in this thread for mounting mid mount lifting hardware.
Get the lift strap adjusted so there is a gap with deck off, and almost locks with deck on. We discuss the lift strap position with bend inside or outside. He said they come from factory already installed on the tractor. In looking at it I really don't see how it would make a difference in any adjustments as the strap is not obstructed in either mounting position. I thank him for stopping over and pull the big boy in the garage in a nice level spot.

Now, here is where this gets interesting and I see no mention of this in the thread and it maybe should be added. When putting the height adjuster to install, and dropping the deck to the bottom I noticed that I could not remove the pins from the turnbuckles without lifting the deck up off the floor by hand. Obviously the turnbuckles were still supporting the weight of the deck. I recalled that the hardware installation manual said to turn the bolt in the turnbuckle at least half way. Mine were screwed up towards the top with only 5-8 threads showing.

What I decided to do was this: I already had my gap between the turnbuckle and height cam set to about 1/4" without the deck on. I lowered the deck all the way to floor with the guide wheels up. The stamped steel was resting on the cement. I then proceeded to turn the turnbuckles out until the hole for the pin lined up with the hole in the draft bars. They were different on each side, but the deck was fully resting on the cement floor. Once I got the turnbuckles adjusted I replaced the pins, raised the deck and guess what happened? The height adjustment knob went into lock with no issues with about a 1/8" gap. I could then lower the deck into the locked position. I then raised it slightly and the knob rotated freely with no issues.

So now I go to level the deck. Since the cement floor is level I was less than 1/4" off from side to side. One and a half turns on the buckle that was low and it is perfectly level. Front to rear was good and needed no adjusting.

In conclusion I suspect that the tractor had the lift strap on from the factory. The dealer installed the deck, and used the turnbuckles to level the deck without fine tuning it. I suspect a vast majority of people who are having issues with the gap after the strap is adjusted and the deck is on is due to the turnbuckles being screwed in too far. It does state somewhere that if you cannot get to the lock position after the strap is adjusted then the turnbuckles need adjusting. Laying it flat on the ground and adjusting the buckle to the hole may save you from a lot of aggravation and doing this multiple times.\

I did adjust the guide wheels to spec on the garage floor, and the seem to roll constantly on the grass and sometimes support the weight of the deck in uneven spots. But man this thing mowed just as good or better than the 455 I had. No more uneven spots, almost looks stripped. Very happy for this thread and it is worth taking the time to dial it in. I hope my advice on the turnbuckle adjustment makes it in the original post, as it sure did help me.
 

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I would think altering the length of the strap between the rock shafts would have still allowed the deck to rest on the ground, without any weight being carried by the lift linkage.
It would, if the lift linkage was not used by the dealer to level the deck before the strap was adjusted. The problem is the dealers are just slapping the decks on these machines and leveling the deck without taking the time to make all of the adjustments that are needed beforehand.
 

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Anybody have some detailed steps on adjusting the rockshaft control lever? I had some issues and went thru the complete setup on page 1. I have a nice gap with the strap adjusted of almost 1/4". When the deck is attached the gap disappears and I cannot rotate the knob. I followed the instructions and lifted the cam buckles and the gap never increases so from what I have seen with others it seems the rockshaft control lever is the culprit.
 

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My lift strap has 3/16" of a gap when the deck is off. Once the deck is back on, the gap disappears and it is about even with the lock position. No matter how many times I turn the turnbuckles up, the gap never increases. From what I have read on this site, some people have had issues where the rockshaft control lever can be adjusted ever so slightly to give me the extra 1/8" that I need to clear the cam. I am literally talking about that small of an increase is needed to clear the turnbuckle.
Like I said, I have my strap adjusted at least 3/16" if not even 1/4" gap when the 60 MMM is off the machine. It is way bigger than the ones I have seen here. It has to be something else because I have done every step at least 4 times in the first post and that gap will not change with the deck on.
 
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