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It seems a few owners haven't gotten their new 1 series tractors equipped with either the 54 or 60D mower setup correctly. This will explain how to do it yourself for the best possible mower performance! ;) Most, if not all, of this information can be found in the John Deere Owner's Manuals for the mower and the tractor. 馃摋 The procedure is the same for the 54" and 60" decks, mechanical or independent lift. There is one additional step for mechanical lift-equipped tractors. More on that later...

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First, you're going to need a few tools. A 1 1/8" wrench, a tape measure, or better yet the JD mower leveling gauge p/n AM130907. The tractor needs to be parked on a smooth and level surface for all of these adjustments.

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-This step is for mechanical lift-equipped tractors only- To adjust MMM rockshaft lift strap (located between 3PH rockshaft and MMM rockshaft behind the left rear wheel) you remove the mower and remove the hairpin clips and pins (D) to disconnect the lift links (E) from both lift arms. Raise the 3PH fully. Rotate the mower cut height knob to lock position. Remove the left rear wheel. (You might be able to skip this if you can reach the 3 bolts on the lifting strap.) Loosen the three bolts on the lift strap. Rotate mid-mount rockshaft (B) forward until there is a small gap (A) between the height cam (C) and mid-mount rockshaft (B). Move the lift strap forward to the end of the travel slot and tighten the three bolts. (I'd use 1/16" to 1/8" for a goal for this gap.) Reinstall the left rear wheel and mower.

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First, you want to adjust the side lift links (E) for maximum lift. To do this you'll want to start the tractor and raise the mower all the way. Rotate the mower height adjustment knob to the lock position. Now, look at the mower height cam (C) above the left rear mower latch. It's just behind the left rear tire. You want to see a gap at "A". I've found that a gap of about 1/8" is perfect.

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To get this gap set right you first need to unlock all anti-scalp wheels, turn the mower height adjustment knob to the "install" position, and then lower the deck to the ground. Then remove the hairpin clips and pins (D) and adjust both links (E) up equally. Now you need to raise the mower fully and check for the gap (A) between the height cam (C) and the rock shaft arm (B). Repeat this process until you get close to 1/8".

Here is the gap on my tractor. The next picture shows the mower resting on the height cam "lock" position.

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Now we are going to adjust side to side level. Set your mower height adjustment knob to your desired mowing height and lower your mower. Measure your blade height and adjust the same side links to achieve a level within 1/8" to 1/4". I was able to achieve the same measurement on both sides. I usually mow at 3" and marked the scale accordingly.

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After you've set the level side to side, recheck your maximum height setting. Here is my tractor at full travel, mower resting on the lock position, and install position.

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To adjust the front to rear level we'll need your mower at your desired mowing height. Measure a blade from the front and at the rear. It doesn't matter which blade. The optimal setting is 1/8" to 1/4" front lower than the rear. This reduces friction on the rear of the blades and makes the front of the blade do all of the cutting and discharging. The front draft arms will adjust front to rear leveling. First, lower the deck to the install position and loosen the rear draft arm nuts with the 1 1/8" wrench. (The nuts closest to the mower.) It may help to drive the tractor off of the mower just to loosen the rear nuts. Raise the mower back to the desired mowing height. Tighten the front nuts the same amount (it helps to count flats) to raise the front of the deck. Loosening lowers the front of the deck. Double-check your front to rear level once you got the draft arm adjustment nuts tight.

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The Auto-Connect carrier bearing needs to be adjusted for easy connection as well. If you remove the mower it will be easier. Lower the mower/mower lift arms all the way to the install position. There is an adjustment bolt under the bearing to adjust between perpendicular to the ground to leaning ever so slightly forward. I found this makes for the best connection. (I was unable to find anything from JD regarding this adjustment. If you know differently, please post it so this can be corrected)

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Lastly, you need to adjust your gauge wheels for the proper mowing height. In my case, the pin goes into the top hole. That gives about 3/8" clearance between the wheels and the ground.

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Now it's time to go mow your yard and enjoy your tractor! (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok?

So what do the three bolts on the yellow zinc plated link between the 3PH rockshaft and the mid rockshaft do?

You should be able to remove, and throw away link E and have no effect on gap A...
The linkage between the rockshafts only exists on mechanical lift mowers and may need to be adjusted for maximum mower lift. I have independent lift so I couldn't add any pics or share any experience adjusting it. I would adjust this linkage with the lift links disconnected and the 3 point fully raised, then adjust it to get your gap set. After that adjust the links to get maximum mower lift without the lift arms contacting the frame.

The gap is effected by the lift links when the lift arms contact the frame before the rockshaft runs out of travel. My tractor suffered from this. I had to lengthen the links to allow more travel on the rockshaft.

Hope this makes sense. :good2: You brought up some great points. I'll revise the OP to reflect it. Thanks Xskier! :hi:


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Independent lift is a hydraulic lift cylinder for the MMM. It connects to one of the QD'S used for the loader. You can't use the loader and independent lift at the same time. The kit is around $450ish IIRC and is much cheaper when you buy the tractor due to you don't have to buy the mechanical lift hardware for the mower. The only advantage of the independent lift is that you can use the 3PH with an implement while the mower is installed and/or in use. Most owners will not have a need for this.

I don't have the P/N handy, but all the information is available on John Deere's build your own website.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jason you can use the loader half way right? You can lift it, just no bucket curl?

Thats the only reason I didnt opt for that.
That is correct. You have to disconnect the yellow QD for the loader curl circuit to use the hydraulic lift. If you aren't using the lift, you can leave the mower on and in the lock position, reconnect the loader QD and use the FEL. I find it too quick and easy to remove the mower and install FEL and vice versa, so it's not a big deal. When I spec'd my tractor I was under the impression that the independent kit made the mower lift totally independent. I had no idea that it used the loader QD. One day I might make it a real independent lift.:laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update

Updated the procedure to include adjusting the lift strap on mechanical lift equipped tractors. :thumbup1gif:

Thanks XSKIER!:drinks:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry guys, but I'm confused. Am I missing something on my 1026R. I lift the auto connect mmm with the tph lever on the right side of the seat. What is this independent lift, and will it keep my tph from moving with my mmm? Maybe when I get back to my shop, I can pull the manuals and find what I'm looking for. Please let me know if I am missing something even better about my R.
Thanks KHOP
P.S. Does anyone know the part number for the independent lift kit?
P/N LVB26043 $619 as a separate kit, or $179 when ordered with the mower. Straight from JD's build your own site.:hi:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi Guys:
New to forum and this is a great place for information. I should have subscribed and started reading before I bought mine last weekend! Just a little bummed out about the interfering loader stand to frame front issue as mine has that. I was looking at pictures toady of my mower with me mowing and I thought my deck looked low because I was mowing all the way up. So I looked over the deck manual and saw the same diagram of the orientations and gap measurement for max deck lift. I was very confused because with my knob in the lock position , my spindle is not in the orientation shown to measure gap, it's like facing the other way by 120 degrees or so. I have put about 2 hours on it and the sales guy delivered it and he/we connected the deck up. I went through this thread and something is not correct with my setup. I will contact the dealer in the morning and my question is, should I not expect to have my tractor delivered and setup correctly? I really don't want to proceed because the knob and shaft are not oriented correctly and I don't want to damage anything. I'm not to impressed so far :-(

CHill
You should definitely expect your equipment to be adjusted and ready to use straight from the dealer. Unfortunately what you describe happens fairly often. Giving them the opportunity to get it right is a great idea.:good2:

It sounds to me like your lift strap (behind the left wheel connecting the 3PH to the mower lift rockshaft) and maybe the lift links are out of adjustment. The mower height knob has me a little baffled. When you raise the mower all the way can you rotate the knob all the way around? It should be able to spin in either direction without stopping when the mower is all the way up. If not. then the lift links and lift strap are for sure in need of adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
My pleasure Chris. :hi: This is what this forum is all about. :drinks:


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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
That's great news Chris! :good2: Thanks for the update. :hi:


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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Welcome to GTT!

Glad to hear you got it working correctly! Even better that your dealer stepped up to the plate and got you going!:good2: Having a good relationship with the dealer is very helpful.

:wgtt:
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Thanks for the welcoming. This forum is a great place for a tractor newbie like me to figure things out. I may start a little post down the road outlining things this rookie has learned after 6 months (54 hours) with the 1026r (with deck, loader and backhoe) though nothing beats getting off the computer and getting some hands on learning. (but hydraulic oil tastes freakin horrible and I'd like to save someone that experience if I could! :fed:)
That would be a great idea! Plus it would be a great way to enter this months Omni Transformer Hitch Giveaway! :thumbup1gif:


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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Updated!

Updated the thread to include gauge wheel adjustment. Thank you ColonyPark for the suggestion!:thumbup1gif:
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
If the deck is in adjustment, then the gauge wheels will be fine when all are at the same height. For me and my 3" mowing height, that happens to be pinned in the top most hole for the wheels. The wheels are not for setting height, but to prevent scalping. :hi:
Honestly I haven't measured the clearance under the front vs. the rear wheels. I can tell you they are very close to the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Welcome to GTT!

Excellent write-up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Appreciate the update XSKIER. :good2: Do the new springs and latch make a big difference? Did you get part numbers?


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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Welcome to GTT!

I have a Auto Connect 60" MMM with mechanical lift on my 1026R. I've had it two week now, and when they dealer dropped it off, we had a horrible time getting the deck to connect. The guy that delivered it admitted to being unfamiliar with this setup and we ended up adjusting the two nuts on the front arm and it started connecting fine. Something else I noticed was that there is only about 1/2"-3/4" travel from my mowing position to having the deck all the way up. With the deck fully lowered in the mowing position it is ~1" off the ground and when I raise the lever it looks like the rear of the deck lifts maybe 1/2"-3/4" and the front part of the deck doesn't seem to move at all. After reading the OP it looks to me like the lift straps may need adjusted, but with the lever all the way up the Install knob does not want to turn into the lock position, it stops around the High position. I asked the guy that dropped it off about it and he said that with the 3 point lift that was all that it would raise, and if I wanted to install the independent lift I might get another 1" of travel out of it. Is this true? Also, if it's not should i try adjusting it myself, or try to get the dealer involved in adjusting it?
:wgtt:

Unfortunately you have a mower that was incorrectly setup if at all from the dealer. Your comment about the rear raising up before the front does and that you can't reach the lock position on the height adjustment knob are all signs of the mower was just attached to the tractor and sent out the door. This is a fairly common issue with many machines from different dealers, but the 1 series tractors are very sensitive to the mower adjustments for proper operation and good reliable connecting/disconnecting. It's also very easy to overcome and adjust.:good2:

You have several options to choose from.

1, Get the dealer involved and get them to fix it. They should be informed about it anyway. This will help whoever is assembling the tractors to learn the correct setup and adjustment procedures and hopefully prevent a future customer from having the same issue.

2, Get a mower height tool and perform the procedure yourself. It's easy to do and only takes about 1/2 an hour. Read up on the procedure, make sure your tire pressure is set, and turn a few wrenches. The mower height tool is available from your dealer for about $10. Make sure to follow the steps in order to prevent a earlier adjustment from affecting a later one. You'll have your mower cutting and installing like it should in no time.:thumbup1gif:


Don't hesitate to ask any questions if you have any. We'll be glad to help you out. :hi:
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
That's correct. You first need to adjust the lift strap for maximum lift. Don't forget to leave a gap between the rockshaft and the cam. Then adjust the lift links for side-to-side level and as short as possible before the deck contacts the tractor at full lift. It takes a few times to adjust the lift links, but at least it doesn't require tools or mower removal to do so. :good2:


BTW, no such thing as a dumb question here. :thumbup1gif:


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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Yup.:thumbup1gif: ^^^^What he said. ^^^^
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
After spending about an hour adjusting the links all the way down and then all the way up in increments and NEVER getting that clearance to enable the height dial to turn all the way around I finally discovered the problem. I had to adjust the angle on the rockshaft control lever to gain that last little bit of upward travel. The lever was hitting the plastic stop before it was actually at the "top". A small tweek later I finally saw the gap. Now back to square 1 to get the maximum lift.
Good catch!


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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I took those steps directly from the manuals. I no longer have the tractor nor the manuals, so I can't say exactly where anymore. But I can tell you that the lift strap has adjustment slots in it for this very purpose. Having multiple places to make adjustments is very handy. The mechanical lift max height adjustment is fairly easy and straight forward, especially once the mower and tire is out of the way. Once completed, you can mark the lift strap with a sharpie for future reference. The two lift links can be reserved for side to side leveling and minor maximum height adjustments. If the lift strap is not adjusted accordingly, you will have issues with max height and possible connect/disconnect issues.

Ask any questions you may have. :drinks:


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