[jakubx80]

On my 1026R, I found that there is no height adjustment cam gap with the lift lever up and the fel installed. After removing the fel, there was plenty of gap on the height cam and I could easily turn the height knob. If you can’t turn the knob, take off the fel and try again. I don’t plan to mow with the fel installed anyway. The added weight of the fel on the tractor would definitely change the leveling of the deck when turning, going over bumps or anything that affects the level of the tractor. Not to mention the deck leveling was done with the fel off the tractor. Since this is not a rough cut mower, I expect to have an even, smooth lawn after mowing. Those less fussy about their lawn may not care.

Thank you for your response.

Unfortunately, I don't have a gap even with FEL off.

So is the only benefit of the gap the fact that you can turn the knob easier?

Kindest regards,

Jakub


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[Fuzzy]

I would think so. In my case, it appeared to have something to do with the fel installed. In your case, something else? Take a look at post #259 on the previous page regarding lift arm adjustment link. This could be why my cam is touching with the fel attached.

 

[falcon67]

I attempted to do this today, and before I go any further, I want to ensure I am doing this correctly. Here is what I've done so far:

1) Checked and confirmed that my surface was level
2) Adjusted pressure of tires
3) Checked for proper clearance between height adjustment cam and the rockshaft arm. Looked good, although I am not sure it is lined up perfectly left to right.

Here is where I am stuck. When I went to do the side to side level, the deck was off by 3/4 of an inch. The left side (sitting on the tractor) was the higher side. No big deal...this is the entire point of leveling, right? Except when I lower the deck from the highest position down to the desired height, the left side (the higher side) stops before the right side, which looks like it's twisting. Again, this might be precisely because of it being out of adjustment.

I have confirmed that the blades are not bent.

Doing the installation and removal of the deck is very easy, and I have no issues there. One thing I noticed is that the front draft arm does have the proper gap when in the installed position, but that gap disappears once the deck is raised. Is that correct? I also noticed that the front arms are not centered between the frame hooks, but I don't think this matters since the deck is connecting and locking properly.

I know that I should probably just go ahead and level this thing, but seeing the deck twist, i.e. the left side hits the stop but then the right side keeps going, kind of threw me off. I wanted to confirm I should proceed before starting to adjust stuff that throws everything off even worse.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Fuzzy]

I’m waiting for someone more experienced to comment. I tend to agree that the leveling is just off. Let’s see what other responses you get first.

 

[kylew]

Yes, the gap at the front draft arms disappears when the deck is raised.

It's been a while since I did the side-to-side leveling, but go ahead and do the leveling and you should see a lot of that 'twisting' go away. Don't go by the numbers printed on the sticker around the height adjustment knob, they probably aren't accurate. The best way is to use a deck leveling gage, like this:

It's a trial and error process sometimes. You want to get the blade tips at equal heights side to side. On mine, this meant that the 2 adjusting yokes were at different lengths compared to each other. You also don't want them adjusted so far up that the rear bar of the lift won't easily engage into the rear slots of the deck.

IIRC the last time I did mine I read here on GTT to set the deck completely on the ground, with the gage wheels unlocked. Drive over the deck and get it to connect, but don't raise the deck. Remove the pins that hold the yoke to the lift arms (be careful, the deck might fall a little), adjust the yokes until their hole lines up with the hole in the lift arm, and you can insert the pin without much, if any, resistance. Once the yokes are re-pinned, lift to desired height and adjust as neccessary. This 'trick' should be a good starting point and get you close.

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

You need to adjust the turnbuckles on each side to level the deck with its weight resting on the height setting cam just as it would be while you're mowing. You cannot level it with the 3 point lift holding the weight because it rests differently on that. As you noticed, the right side comes up higher than the left when the weight is on the 3 point mechanical lift mechanism. This is normal but I do not know why.

I just spent quite a bit of time fanagling around with mine to meet my OCD requirements an I am finally happy with it.

• With the three point fully raised, the deck lift mechanism sucks the deck up all the way to frame.
• I had to remove the rearmost of the three bolts on the sliding bar connecting the lift mechanism to the rockshaft to get enough lift height for that.
• With the cut height knob on 4, the blades are actually at 4" leveled on both sides. This is the top notch of the little cam.
• The numbers and the cam do not correspond to inches well beyond the one you calibrate it for. So 3 is actually a little under 3" and 2 is more like 1.5". You can mess around adjusting the turnbuckles to make whatever number you want be dead one if you feel so motivated. I cut high so I calibrated it high.
• With the deck on the ground (install position), you need a hair of a gap between the front draft arm and the hooks on the bumper. This allows the hear draft arms to fully engage and lock in when you drive into it. If you make the front draft arms tight on the ground, you will never it to lock/unlock reliably.

 

[Fuzzy]

Great feedback guys. I’m happy with my leveling, but you gave me more things to work with the next time around and this should definitely answer the original questions. Thanks.

 

[falcon67]

Thanks, guys. I was able to get it all taken care of today. I think the twisting I was seeing was nothing more than the deck being out of level. I don't really notice any twisting now.

It wasn't difficult, but it sure was a pain in the butt. After I got the side to side done, the front to rear was off by over an inch! It took a few rounds of loosening and tightening the front draft link nuts to get it right.

 

[Fuzzy]

You are aware that front to rear are not supposed to be perfectly level? Front should be lower than the rear. Being first contact going forward, it does the initial cutting. The rear of the deck lifts the cut grass and grinds it up. It’s described in your MMM manual.

 

[falcon67]

You are aware that front to rear are not supposed to be perfectly level? Front should be lower than the rear. Being first contact going forward, it does the initial cutting. The rear of the deck lifts the cut grass and grinds it up. It’s described in your MMM manual.

Yes, it is set at 1/4" higher in the rear.

 

[CMoua]

Without creating another post about this. Can anyone give me any trick to leveling your deck if you don’t have a level floor? I have thought about maybe using some sort of laser and use it to mark the ground/wall and level the deck one side at a time but if anyone knows a better trick that will be much appreciated.

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

Without creating another post about this. Can anyone give me any trick to leveling your deck if you don’t have a level floor? I have thought about maybe using some sort of laser and use it to mark the ground/wall and level the deck one side at a time but if anyone knows a better trick that will be much appreciated.

John Deere Leveling Gauge for Mower Deck Blade Height - AM130907

www.greenpartstore.com

As long as you're on a flat floor that's the same on both sides, the actual angle of the floor is irrelevant since you're measuring to the floor.

 

[CMoua]

John Deere Leveling Gauge for Mower Deck Blade Height - AM130907

www.greenpartstore.com

As long as you're on a flat floor that's the same on both sides, the actual angle of the floor is irrelevant since you're measuring to the floor.

Thanks I kinda figure that but I don’t have a flat enough ground to do any leveling. Not wanting to divert this post any further I will keep experimenting.

 

[jim1025r]

Hi, Does anybody know the torque specs for the three bolts on the lift strap?

 

[kylew]

Hi, Does anybody know the torque specs for the three bolts on the lift strap?

View attachment 740384

40Nm=29.5 lb-ft.

 

[jim1025r]

Thank you, Kylew.

 

[BarnYard]

It seems a few owners haven't gotten their new 1 series tractors equipped with either the 54 or 60D mower setup correctly. This will explain how to do it yourself for the best possible mower performance!:good2: Most if not all of this information can be found in the John Deere Owner's Manuals for the mower and the tractor. The procedure is the same for the 54" and 60" decks, mechanical or independent lift.:read There is one additional step for mechanical lift equipped tractors. More on that later...

View attachment 7863

First you're going to need a few tools. A 1 1/8" wrench, a tape measure or better yet the JD mower leveling gauge p/n AM130907. The tractor needs to be parked on a smooth and level surface for all of these adjustments.

View attachment 7866

-This step is for mechanical lift equipped tractors only- To adjust MMM rockshaft lift strap (located between 3PH rockshaft and MMM rockshaft behind left rear wheel) you remove the mower and remove the hair pin clips and pins (D) to disconnect the lift links (E) from both lift arms. Raise the 3PH fully. Rotate mower cut height knob to lock position. Remove left rear wheel. (You might be able to skip this if you can reach the 3 bolts on the lifting strap.) Loosen the three bolts on the lift strap. Rotate mid mount rockshaft (B) forward until there is a small gap (A) between the the height cam (C) and mid mount rockshaft (B). Move lift strap forward to the end of travel slot and tighten the three bolts. (I'd use 1/16" to 1/8" for a goal for this gap.) Reinstall left rear wheel and mower.

View attachment 7867

First you want to adjust the side lift links (E) for maximum lift. To do this you'll want to start the tractor and raise the mower all the way. Rotate the mower height adjustment knob to the lock position. Now look at the mower height cam (C) above the left rear mower latch. It's just behind the left rear tire. You want to see a gap at "A". I've found that a gap of about 1/8" is perfect.

View attachment 7867 View attachment 7872

To get this gap set right you first need to unlock all anti-scalp wheels, turn the mower height adjustment knob to the "install" position, and then lower the deck to the ground. Then remove the hair pin clips and pins (D) and adjust both links (E) up equally. Now you need to raise the mower fully and check for the gap (A) between the height cam (C) and the rock shaft arm (B). Repeat this process until you get close to 1/8".

Here is the gap on my tractor. The next picture shows the mower resting on the height cam "lock" position.

View attachment 7868 View attachment 7869

Now we are going to adjust side to side level. Set your mower height adjustment knob to your desired mowing height and lower your mower. Measure your blade height and adjust the same side links to achieve level within 1/8" to 1/4". I was able to achieve the same measurement on both sides. I usually mow at 3" and marked the scale accordingly.

View attachment 7870 View attachment 7871

After you've set level side to side, recheck your maximum height setting. Here is my tractor at full travel, mower resting on the lock position, and install position.

View attachment 7873 View attachment 7874 View attachment 7875

To adjust front to rear level we'll need your mower at your desired mowing height. Measure a blade from the front and at the rear. It doesn't matter which blade. The optimal setting is 1/8" to 1/4" front lower than the rear. This reduces friction on the rear of the blades and make the front of the blade do all of the cutting and discharging. The front draft arms will adjust front to rear leveling. First lower the deck to the install position and loosen the rear draft arm nuts with the 1 1/8" wrench. (The nuts closest to the mower.) It may help to drive the tractor off of the mower just to loosen the rear nuts. Raise the mower back to the desired mowing height. Tighten the front nuts the same amount (it helps to count flats) to raise the front of the deck. Loosening lowers the front of the deck. Double check your front to rear level once you got the draft arm adjustment nuts tight.

View attachment 7876

The Auto-Connect carrier bearing needs to be adjusted for easy connection as well. If you remove the mower it will be easier. Lower the mower/mower lift arms all the way to the install position. There is an adjustment bolt under the bearing to adjust for between perpendicular to the ground to leaning ever so slightly forward. I found this makes for the best connection. (I was unable to find anything from JD regarding this adjustment. If you know differently, please post it so this can be corrected)

View attachment 7877

Lastly you need to adjust your gauge wheels for the proper mowing height. In my case the pin goes into the top hole. That gives about 3/8" clearance between the wheels and the ground.

View attachment 8938 View attachment 8939

Now it's time to go mow your yard and enjoy your tractor!:thumbup1gif:

John Deere does not recommend setting the gauge wheels using the last position or top hole as you call it. They recommend if that is needed to not use them by lifting them and locking them above the deck height. At least in the 2020 manual I just read.

 

[kylew]

John Deere does not recommend setting the gauge wheels using the last position or top hole as you call it. They recommend if that is needed to not use them by lifting them and locking them above the deck height. At least in the 2020 manual I just read.

He didn't say he was using the top hole for the setting. He was putting the (lynch) pin in the top.

 

[jim1025r]

Hi, can anybody tell me why this is so onesided and how to resolve it? View attachment 740559
View attachment 740559

 

[jim1025r]

Sorry about the two images.