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The angle of the pto shaft can be very finicky if it's slightly off. A previous post mentioned a slight downward angle.
 

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Well I finally got it!

On the two little catch brackets(thats the technical term, btw) the one right side was always stopping from going on about the last half to 3/4 in. So I widened it out a little and sure as a bear craps in the woods, the dang thing went on and I could slide the silver catch up all the way. I put the draft bar back on and mowed the yard just for good measure.
Persistence and a few bud lights seems to have fixed the issue
 

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Happy to hear of your success.

One more thing that your solution suggests is exactly where your front tires are as you drive over the deck during install. The left front tire should be rubbing the left hand guide rail. It is possible the tractor was too far to the right to center on both lift tab hooks, especially the right hand one you had to widen. Depending on how far you bent that hook, you may have to bend it back if you drive further to the left.

As much as you may not want to, I suggest you uninstall the deck and try it again with that front tire rubbing the rail, unless you know for sure that you were doing it before. It would be a plus to fully understand what it takes to get an easy install every time. I would be wondering how or if that hook got bent off location to begin with.
 

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Yeah I'm not sure how it would get pinched just enough. That's pretty heavy gauge steel. When I drive on, I do have the tire rubbing that rail. But somehow, the top guide got pinched down just enough to not let it slide in all the way and it would catch and push the mower. I know I should take it off and on one more time but I don't think my wife has the energy to play "kevin says" as I inch her forward, then off, then back on, then off, then on again, for another hour or two! Lol
 

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I should clarify, the right side wasn't pinched in, it seems to be pinched down. Like I said it's pretty heavy gauge steel so not sure how that would have happened.
 

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Got it. Maybe it got a hard hit from something when it was off. Good catch on your part.
 

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Thank God and the members here on GTT. After trying to mow the lawn but finding it was doing a lot of scalping (my lawn has never been accused of being flat) I found the cut height adjustment knob would not move. It took a lot of research to come up with the right question for the search engine but finally wound up here. I finished reading the WHOLE thread Friday, and yesterday got the 54d mmm off and started playing with the lift link and strap. I have high hopes that all will be good when I am done. But first on the agenda is the 200 hr service as I just turned that point.
Wish me luck,
 
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Just came to say thank you to @dieselshadow , this was a helpful guide for me. My deck was nearly 3/4" off left to right :oops: ! All tuned level now.
I have a feeling mine is off by this same amount based on how close the right guide wheel is to the right rear tire. I plan to go through this in detail in the near future. Thanks @dieselshadow for the details in explaining this.
 

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Finally fixed 60D noise. My 1025R has 1000+ hours, about 750 of those hours using my 60D MMM. Metallic rattle kept getting worse and worse. Prior to today I had followed this setup and adjustment guide. Among replaced parts have been mower belt, gearbox, blades, turnbuckles, entire mower PTO shaft and bearing and housing, tensioner pulley and spring. There were no hanger strap bushings so I added those, and they helped more than everything else but would not stay in place. Then I noticed shiny metal on the lift arm. The pictures show the wear that I found. I replaced the lift arm BLV10735 and all 4 straps LVU29616 and bushings R276819. The noise is gone, and the MMM is as quiet as I recall on delivery day. Cost was $403 for parts from GreenFarmParts, and it took about 90 minutes of my labor. Also, the mower cuts dead level again, after 5 years of adjusting.
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Thanks for sharing.

Looks like some pretty crappy steel being used. Hopefully, your replacements will be better, but that's hard to know. Good quality, properly hardened steel should not wear that badly. It's very possible that Deere got a bad run of parts from their supplier, which should have created a recall.

I just replaced noisy ball bearings in our LG washing machine. The new ones sound exactly the same. Likely Chinese junk and I have no idea where to source U.S. made quality replacements. I had to fully disassemble the machine to change them, so the cost of the parts is a minor concern.
 

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This is my 2nd 1025. I had the deck off. When I tried to put the deck back on the coupler on the tractor is in this position. The coupler misses the shaft on the deck. I tried to move it with no luck. Any help would be appreciate.
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This is my 2nd 1025. I had the deck off. When I tried to put the deck back on the coupler on the tractor is in this position. The coupler misses the shaft on the deck. I tried to move it with no luck. Any help would be appreciate.
View attachment 753131 View attachment 753131
You are missing the adjuster bolt. Yours looks pretty clean and fresh so I would guess the dealer didn't install it adequately. It happens on occasion. Look around your yard, you might find it, but you'd be looking for the bolt, which probably still has one of the nuts attached, a washer and the second nut.

See this picture. The bolt #5 is part number 19M8568, size is M10x120. Nut #6 is 14M7296, also a M10. Washer #8 is 24M7178, 10.5x30x2.5 mm.

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If it's under warranty, have the dealer fix it. If not, go to your local hardware store and get the parts. It'll be cheaper as Deere wants 10 bucks for just the bolt. How ever you do it, make sure washer #8 gets put on the outside like shown in the picture. We've seen some cases of where the bearing has come out the front and speculate that the washer may aid in holding it in.

Here's a couple pictures of mine so you can see how the adjuster bolt is used. Both of these pics are with the lift raised. Notice how the bearing carrier is tilted down. When adjusting the bolt, lower the lift all the way and adjust the bolt until the bearing carrier is plumb, with a level on the face of the carrier. The carrier will then tilt down when the lift is raised, as shown.

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Hey guys. I’ve never been able to get my height adjust to the lock position with the 60D deck on and the most height I can get for cutting on H is about 3”. After removing and re-installing my deck, I noticed it wasn’t cutting level again. so I decide to take the left rear wheel off to get better access to the lift strap And attempt once again to get everything dialed in perfectly. I get the cam set with a 1/4” gap and retighten the strap with the three bolts and over-torqued the rear most bolt and broke off the head. Crap! Anyways, my question is, can I get by with only two bolts on the lift strap? And, what size bolts are those should I end up replacing it?
 

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The bolt part number is 19M7167. 71 cents at my dealer. Size is M10x25. It doesn't list the pitch but I imagine 1.5mm. Yes, we have a member or 2 that had to adjust the linkage so far that they had to remove the rear bolt and are only running 2 bolts. No ill effects that I've heard of.
 
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The bolt part number is 19M7167. 71 cents at my dealer. Size is M10x25. It doesn't list the pitch but I imagine 1.5mm. Yes, we have a member or 2 that had to adjust the linkage so far that they had to remove the rear bolt and are only running 2 bolts. No ill effects that I've heard of.
Thank you so much! And now I know the torque spec is 40nm=29.5 lb.-ft so it won’t happen again!
 
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I just purchased a 2016 1025R with the 60D deck (not auto connect) and found this thread very, very useful. I usually mow at 3-3.5" and was only able to get 2.5" before reading this thread. And the deck wouldn't go into the lock position. I have everything set and leveled now. Max height of cut (H on the dial) is slightly disappointing at only 3 1/8" but I'm thinking I could bump it a little by raising the turnbuckles some more. I am disappointed that the next click down from H on the dial yields a height of cut at only 2.5" and I'm wondering if that's normal. I've confirmed it's the next notch down, but I just can't believe it drops that much. I'm trying to convince myself this mower will satisfy my need for an excellent cut, but I'm used to my X758 cut and so far it's not quite there. I was also thinking about making a front roller as I think that'd help with some of the issues I'm noticing.
 

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Lots of tweeking potential. A center roller would help if your lawn contour is irregular leading to scalping. My max height was achieved by removing the forward lift strap lock bolt, so I'm only using the rear and center bolts. This allowed me to slide the straps closer together for more lift. Before I did that, I couldn't get the deck high enough to clear the lock position cam. The other thing I learned was tire pressure also contributes to deck height. I have mine at 10 psi all the way around to smooth out bumps and the max height is lower than 20 psi. The blade height gauge sold by Deere is a great tool for minimal cost. I also have the safety grass exit chute removed. It gives me better accuracy for lining up my cut on the right side.
 

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I was able to adjust the straps keeping the three bolts and still clearing the adjustment cam. The trick that worked for me was setting it with a 1/4" gap and then the weight of the deck closed the gap to the desired 1/8" when all was put back together. That took three times before I got it right. I've had that blade height gauge for 15 years and I agree it's an awesome tool.
 
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