[Pedals2Paddles]

You only need a hair of a gap. Just enough that you can wiggle or spin that bar. And remember that spring is pulling on it, so pull the horizontal bar out with your hand to see the real gap while you're adjusting the nuts. That screwed me all up for a long time until I realized what was happening.

Also make sure you have done the nudge maneuver with the front arm loosened out first to make sure the rear draft arms are fully seated, before setting that little hair of a gap on the front draft arms.

Once you have the front draft arms with that little hair of a gap and even on both sides, the next step is adjusting the turnbuckles on the back. As you've noticed, you will have to bring those turnbuckles down a bit to compensate for whatever hair you're about to let out of the front draft arms.

This picture is notch 4 (highest) on the deck height knob. 3-7/8 front, 4-1/8 back. As perfectly level as ever and the 1/4" front rake also about perfect. I struggled with cut quality until I actually spent the time to set all this as described. Combined with the gauge wheels being as close to the ground as possible, which is all the way down since I cut high, my cut quality is absolutely beautiful now. It used to look like a hack job.

 

[Fuzzy]

It may require leveling all over again, but I'll go through your procedure. The front draft arm has to be bent, since there's at least 1/4" difference in threads sticking out when tightened equally. Something clearly took a major hit with the previous owner, because the vertical tab on the front draft arm that connects to the hanger spring is cracked at the weld and was bent fully horizontal pointing forward. I bent the tab back up 90 degrees to vertical, added the missing adjustment bolt and adjusted the height to 11.4". I'm going to take the arm off and try to straight it back to square. Given the evidence of the hit, there could be other components, including the deck itself that are out of spec. Hopefully though, just the draft arm. Time to put that new monster vise that I bought to work.

The ideal outcome will be near perfect leveling with easy disconnect and connect. I think the key is straightening the draft arm. Will report back soon.

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

Well that crookedness of the front draft arm is what I was fighting too. The side to side level would change depending on the height or not unlock. Very frustrating. But I finally realized the spring pulls one side of the it tight, making it LOOK like it's tight on that side but it isn't. Pull forward on the bar (or unhook the spring) to make sure it's for real lined up. Once I did that, both side of the front draft arm had equal thread beyond the nuts. It was driving me nuts until I realized what was going on.

I have a keyboard in front of me now so this will be easier than voice typing.

1. Loosen the front draft arms so there is plenty of wiggle room first
2. Nudge maneuver to make sure the rear hooks are all the way forward and lock the brake so it doesn't un-nudge.
3. Adjust the nuts on the front draft arm so they are even with just a hair of gap with the front hooks. Pull forward on the cross bar, because the spring makes it uneven if you don't!
4. Raise deck all the way up, and lower fully to one of the height adjustment stops. Measure levelness (or lack thereof)
5. Proceed adjusting rear turnbuckles to get even left/right and the back 1/4" higher than the front (rake).

 

[Fuzzy]

Got it. I'll pull the draft arm first to check squareness, then follow your instructions.

 

[bones]

Hey guys, it's been so long since (2012) I leveled my mower that I forgot most of it. Glad to come back to this thread for a refresher. One question though, I have everything leveled and now I need to adjust the auto-connect carrier, will this adjustment allow the entire carrier to move forward? See my attached photo. I need about a half inch to be able to lock the deck in place. (without going back to adjust the draft arms because I have those where I want the front of the deck to be)

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

I have everything leveled and now I need to adjust the auto-connect carrier, will this adjustment allow the entire carrier to move forward? See my attached photo. I need about a half inch to be able to lock the deck in place. (without going back to adjust the draft arms because I have those where I want the front of the deck to be)

I hate to break it to you but you're not done leveling.

You have the front draft arms WAY too tight if that is happening. You need too loosen the front draft arm horizontal bar all the way forward so it's out of the way. Drive the tractor forward until the rear arms (pictured there) are all the way forward against the hooks tight. Basically, nudge forward gently until you're pushing the deck by the back arms, and lock the brake so it doesn't roll back. Now you can redo the front draft arms, leaving just a hair between the horizontal arm and hooks. The front horizontal bar should be a hair loose from the hooks, not touching or tight. You will need to pull the arm forward with your hand due to the spring. Adjust the nuts to lock the bar into that place evenly on both sides.

Now you can level the deck again and everything will be fine

 

[bones]

I hate to break it to you but you're not done leveling.

You have the front draft arms WAY too tight if that is happening. You need too loosen the front draft arm horizontal bar all the way forward so it's out of the way. Drive the tractor forward until the rear arms (pictured there) are all the way forward against the hooks tight. Basically, nudge forward gently until you're pushing the deck by the back arms, and lock the brake so it doesn't roll back. Now you can redo the front draft arms, leaving just a hair between the horizontal arm and hooks. The front horizontal bar should be a hair loose from the hooks, not touching or tight. You will need to pull the arm forward with your hand due to the spring. Adjust the nuts to lock the bar into that place evenly on both sides.

Now you can level the deck again and everything will be fine

lol thanks, I was afraid that was going to be the solution!

 

[bones]

I hate to break it to you but you're not done leveling.

You have the front draft arms WAY too tight if that is happening. You need too loosen the front draft arm horizontal bar all the way forward so it's out of the way. Drive the tractor forward until the rear arms (pictured there) are all the way forward against the hooks tight. Basically, nudge forward gently until you're pushing the deck by the back arms, and lock the brake so it doesn't roll back. Now you can redo the front draft arms, leaving just a hair between the horizontal arm and hooks. The front horizontal bar should be a hair loose from the hooks, not touching or tight. You will need to pull the arm forward with your hand due to the spring. Adjust the nuts to lock the bar into that place evenly on both sides.

Now you can level the deck again and everything will be fine

Ok second question, after fixing the draft arms and I go back to level from the beginning, how do I raise the front of the deck to get the front/rear blade heights within 1/8" to 1/4" as mentioned? or do I need to lower the rear more? and if I lower then rear more, then I lose the ~1/8" gap between the height cam and deck arm?

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

With the front positioned correctly and evenly, you can now adjust the rear turnbuckles for side-to-side and front-to-back leveling. The back of the deck should be about 1/4" higher than the front. If your three point lift is not raising the deck high enough to totally clear the knob cam, you probably need to take some slack out of the linkage behind the left rear tire. Two bars with slots connect the three point lift to the deck lift mechanism. Loosen the three bolts and adjust to take out some slack.

 

[bones]

With the front positioned correctly and evenly, you can now adjust the rear turnbuckles for side-to-side and front-to-back leveling. The back of the deck should be about 1/4" higher than the front. If your three point lift is not raising the deck high enough to totally clear the knob cam, you probably need to take some slack out of the linkage behind the left rear tire. Two bars with slots connect the three point lift to the deck lift mechanism. Loosen the three bolts and adjust to take out some slack.

Thanks again. I have the hydraulic deck lift so I don't think it uses the 3pt. The first thing listed on this thread was to adjust the rear turnbuckles and get the max lift, which is what I did. There's about an 1/8" gap between the cam and arm with the cam in the lock position. I have about a half inch difference between front of blade and rear of same blade, I will try lowering the rear a little more with the turnbuckles to get to 1/4 front to back on the blade.

 

[martincom]

The Operator's Manual provides a good, detailed, installation/adjustment procedure. As to the autoconnect coupler:

1. Park the tractor on a level surface.

2. Lower the autoconnect coupler to the "Install" position.

3. Place a torpedo level across the face of the coupler vertically and adjust coupler for a plumb indication.

 

[John Deere 1025R TLB]

Thanks again. I have the hydraulic deck lift so I don't think it uses the 3pt. The first thing listed on this thread was to adjust the rear turnbuckles and get the max lift, which is what I did. There's about an 1/8" gap between the cam and arm with the cam in the lock position. I have about a half inch difference between front of blade and rear of same blade, I will try lowering the rear a little more with the turnbuckles to get to 1/4 front to back on the blade.

You can also adjust with a 2 ft ling 2x4 under the center of the front of the deck oriented lengthwise from front to back. Allows for a taller cut without issues. At least none for me.

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

 

[jeff_tractor]

I know that this thread is getting really really long, BUT I had to put this in: I just received my 2021 1025R with the mid-mower. The instructions in the MMM manual for setting the height of cut are simple and straightforward, EXCEPT for one thing. They say to raise the MMM and adjust the setting wheel, and then, in a note, they say: "NOTE: Do NOT lower the lift system after adjusting the height-of-cut to the desired level". Nowhere do they say to lower the mower. I even had the unit returned to the dealer because the setting was having no effect.

I saw that in the manual too, and it makes no sense. I can't imagine what they are trying to say there. Of course I'm going to lower my deck after setting it.

 

[Brandon966]

So how are we supposed to adjust front to back after we have adjusted the lift strap for max height and the front mount bolts for gap...if we are to use the front mount bolts to adjust forward to back pitch? I spent hours a few weekends ago adjusting my deck to max height and got pitch as close as I could, and had a gap at the front of the deck but when I went to mount and un mount the deck this weekend I cant latch or unlatch the deck without extreme effort. I know the solution for that is to loosen the front mount bolts, but then that will throw off the forward pitch of my deck correct?

Also I read somewhere on this forum that deere considers the deck at max height on the up and down lever as a height adjustment, is that the case or is max height at the top notch on the cam?

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

So how are we supposed to adjust front to back after we have adjusted the lift strap for max height and the front mount bolts for gap...if we are to use the front mount bolts to adjust forward to back pitch? I spent hours a few weekends ago adjusting my deck to max height and got pitch as close as I could, and had a gap at the front of the deck but when I went to mount and un mount the deck this weekend I cant latch or unlatch the deck without extreme effort. I know the solution for that is to loosen the front mount bolts, but then that will throw off the forward pitch of my deck correct?

Also I read somewhere on this forum that deere considers the deck at max height on the up and down lever as a height adjustment, is that the case or is max height at the top notch on the cam?

Achieving maximum lift height, as in sucking the deck up as far the mechanical linkage will allow, is not actually practical. As you've noticed, it's possible to lift that deck up into your crotch if you adjust things for that. But then nothing else will work or align properly. The arms will not be low enough to latch/unlatch, which will make you go completely insane. And you won't get the pitch right either. You're lifting the deck higher than it is designed to be lifted.

1. Start with the deck flat on the ground. Wheels up, deck resting on flat level ground.
   
   
2. Loosen the front draft arms so it's not in the way of setting the rear first.
   
   
3. Set the rear draft arms so there is bit of slack when latched to the deck. This is needed to freely latch/unlatch, and to prevent you from going totally insane.
   
   
4. Give the tractor a nudge forward so the rear draft arms are slammed forward in the deck hooks and set the brake before letting off the forward pedal. Check to make sure the draft arms are indeed slammed all the way forward in the rear hooks before proceeding. If you don't do this, you will go completely insane later.
   
   
5. Now tighten the front draft arms so there is just ~ 1/8" bit of a gab in the tractor's front hooks. You don't need a huge gap. Just enough that you can notice and jiggle it. This tiny gap is critical. If you make it tight, the thing will never latch in the back because the front will be dragging it away. The gap allows the back to latch first.
   
   
6. Raise the deck up and set the knob to the highest setting. Lower the deck down to rest on the cam stop.
   
   
7. Check for left/right and front/back level. It should be fairly close. You will probably need to tweak the turnbuckles on the rear draft arms a 1/2 turn at a time to work it out. Of course you need to lower it all the way down to the ground to make those adjustments. It's an annoying dance.
   
   
8. Once you're level at the highest setting, check again at a lower height setting. It should be pretty close to level if everything is symmetrical. If it isn't, something is crooked. Honestly if you cut at the same height all the time, set it to be level at that height and don't screw with it anywhere else.
   
   
9. Enjoy your nice level deck that comes on and off easily without going completely insane.

Don't forget to lower the gauge wheels do the pin as low as you can go without actually rolling on the ground when on flat level ground at your set cutting height.

 

[nrobe50]

great information.

 

[MountainRenegade]

If you have the mechanical lift (deck raises and lowers with the 3-point), it sounds like you may have some of the same problems I did. The key to getting the correct gap setting between the height cam and the rockshaft (which is the mechanical stop) is the adjustable strap that connects the rockshaft to the 3-point lift. This strap is hidden behind the left rear wheel and has 3 bolts that must be loosened to adjust its length, which is what sets the gap. If you have this type of lift, first thing you need to do is make sure the back half of the strap is installed correctly, mine was installed wrong as indicated by this picture:
View attachment 30545

I removed and flipped it over as shown in this picture:
View attachment 30546

When I first looked at mine the way it was delivered to me, the height cam gap was way too big, causing it to mow way too low, shown here:
View attachment 30547

After all my changes and adjustments, this is what the gap looks like:
View attachment 30479

Adjusting the strap has to be done with the weight of the deck off the strap so you can slide it, but when the deck weight is back on it will decrease this gap. So if you try and set it right without the deck it will be too tight when you put the deck back on. I found that using 1/4" bolt as a guage to set it without the deck was about right as it would close up about half-way with the deck back on.

As you said, the turnbuckles really have nothing to do with this gap other than they can decrease it if made too short so that the draft arms hit the frame and pull the rockshaft tighter.

Hope this helps.

View attachment 30548

I want to thank you for this post! I bought my 1025R used, about a year ago. I could never get it to go up to the top position (4") on the adjusting cam, barely 3 1/2. I had taken off the LR wheel and adjusted the linkage shaft as far as possible, didn't gain much. Also played with the hydraulics to make sure the 3pt was raising as much as possible (without bottoming and blowing over the relief valve). Finally stumbled across this post. Half an hour to pull the wheel I found the same issue you show, the connecting link installed backwards, and to the wrong side of the 3-point arm. Flipped it, raised the 3pt and finally #4 on the height cam! Went out for a quick test, definitely cutting a lot nicer. Gotta recheck the overall level of the deck now that this is sorted, but very happy with such a quick fix. And rather annoyed at both the dealer and Deere. The dealer's mechanics should know how to put the machine together properly. At the same time, without instructions, I'd have done it wrong as well-it's just the more intuitive approach. A better design addresses those kinds of issues and ensures things can only go together one way.

 

[JoeFriday1979]

Need some quick help.....just started in on these directions to level my 60D AutoVonnect deck on my 2016 1025R.

Raised the deck, and put height adjustment knob onto 'LOCK' setting.....

My 'Height Cam C' is actually behind 'Metal Bracket B'.....and C is resting AGAINST B.

So, is this 'normal?' AND if so, do I then need to adjust the deck down to get a 1/8th gap per the OP instructions?

Here is what mine looks like in the 'up/lock' position.... Thanks for your help.....

I thought 'B' was supposed to be aligned right under Height Cam 'A'......mine is behind A and their sides touch.

Thanks good people!

 

[dfwbew7]

Tried the foward nudge many times with zero success. What bothers me about unscrewing the forward draft arm to get a slight gap when the deck is all the way down is the leading edge of the blade ending up a lot lower than the trailing edge. 1/4-1/2" is recommended. I'll lengthen the front draft arm, but expect the blade to be an inch or more lower than the rear. The worst part is losing a lot of cut height. But, I'll give it a try. Before I did the recent leveling, I tried backing off the front draft arm nuts with the deck down on the ground when I was having trouble disconnecting. At a certain point the rear cams snapped open, so that looked like the way to go. Will fiddle with it some more to see what happens. Foolproof connects and disconnects would be great. Thanks.

I have the same problem ,the manual tells you to tighten up the 2 large nuts on the front bars to raise the front of the deck, which does away with the gap they say you need at the front slots? and the deck gets jammed and impossible to remove, and I have tried everything and NO ONE can tell me how to fix it. the only way is to loosen up the 2 front nuts so it has the slack needed to flip the rear latches to remove the deck, this is BS!