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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I completed the initial 50 hour service on my 1026R today and wanted to share some notes with you guys.

Tools required
  • Flat tip screwdriver
  • 10mm socket and wrench (engine side panel removal-optional)
  • pliers
  • 13mm wrench
  • 6mm Allen wrench
  • oil filter pliers
  • transmission oil filter p/n LVA16054
  • 4 Gallons of low viscosity Hy-Gard (J20D) fluid
  • a LARGE drain pan capable of at least 4 gallons. Bigger if you have it.
  • 3/4" socket for removing wheel
  • floor jack and jack stand
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I also changed the engine oil so you'll see the 17mm wrench and oil filter p/n M806418

The 50 hour initial servicing of the trans is pretty straight forward. You need to remove the left rear tire.

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Drain the trans by removing the drain plug with the 13mm wrench. Lower the mower lift arms to get more room to access the trans filter. My filter was TIGHT. I needed the filter pliers to loosen it. I partially filled the new filter and lubricated the gasket prior to installing it. Next the oil pump suction screen need to be removed. This is very important. The suction screen is at the bottom rear of the trans. Remove the suction hose clamps and remove the hose. This is what you'll see.

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Remove the Allen bolt and pull the screen assembly out of the trans. Here's what mine looked like.

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Don't forget to clean the magnet inside the screen!

Pen


Remember how much oil is in the transmission?

Flowerpot Bucket Cup Cup Plastic


A couple of tips.- Remove the dipstick (engine or trans) during draining or filling to let it breathe and prevent surging or bubbling in your funnel or drain pan. I purchased a 5 gallon bucket of low-vis Hy-Gard as it was cheaper and I have some left over. Lower your 3PH for a more complete oil change. Use a jack stand- 'nuff said. Engine oil change is so straight forward there's nothing to really note. Do not overfill. It's much easier to add than remove a little oil. The trans level will come up all of a sudden, so sneak up on it. I used this opportunity to grease all of the zerks for a complete service. The picture of the trans suction screen says it all. Don't skip this important service.:good2:


EDIT: It's important to operate the steering and activate the PTO several times. This will help eliminate possible air bubbles that will prevent proper operation after draining all of the fluid. Work all of the hydraulics a few times and recheck the fluid level. Top-off as needed. :good2:
 

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Great post Jason :good2:

So which engine oil did you finally choose?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had some Shell Rotella T (CI-4 plus). It has more zinc to aid in what's left of the break-in process. I'll use JD's synthetic on the next change. It comes highly recommended.

I couldn't let the engine oil go all the way to 100 hours. Old habits die hard. :lol::lol::lol:


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Great post Diesel. Good Job!!:drinks:
 

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I had some Shell Rotella T (CI-4 plus). It has more zinc to aid in what's left of the break-in process. I'll use JD's synthetic on the next change. It comes highly recommended.

I couldn't let the engine oil go all the way to 100 hours. Old habits die hard. :lol::lol::lol:


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Dieselshadow,

By chance are these steps in the owners manual? Mine will be delivered hopefully this Friday! So I will be reading this manual front to back. Just curious if this is covered in the manual or not. I have come to truly appreciate all of the information on this site and how you all look after everyone here. Thanks so much for everyones input on this site!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes. Most if not all of this is covered in the owner's manual. I do have the tech manual and researched it. It has great repair and technical info, but not much in the way of service. The owners manual does a great job of covering it. :good2:


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John Deere 50 hour service on 1026R

I reached 50 hours on my 1026R and took it in for it's 50 hour transmission service. The dealer changed out the transmission fluid and filter. They also lubed the chassis and checked fluid levels and tire pressure. When all was said and done, the 50 hour service cost me, $226.48 out the door. They didn't change the engine oil, as it's not due until the tractor reaches 200 hours. I was glad to get it back home and the MMM back on, so it can kick some grass! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
JD recommends the first engine oil change on any new or rebuilt diesel engine at 100 hours. The 1 series gets a 200 hour oil change interval after that. This information is not found in the owner's manual. You can find this in the tech manual. :hi:


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#%&%@ng Transmission Filter!!!

If someone ever meets the guy at the JD/Yanmar factory who installs the oil filters.....could you let him know that 200ft/lbs is too tight. I imagine that guy has forearms the size of Popeye. Wow was my filter on tight. It was made worse by all the autoconnect mower hardware down there and the fact the tranny filter is a nice smooth cylinder with nothing to grab onto. I finally waved a white flag and went to Lordco and bought the most expensive and nicest oil filter removal tool I could find; a set of filter pliers (kind of like channel locks) Even then I was just barely able to get it out without crushing the filter and making a huge mess. Anyways.....just be prepared with a decent filter removal tool and then your tranny oil change will be a quick job as opposed to the one I did that was anything else but quick.
Also one other thing to note.....12liters (3.25gallons) is a lot of hydraulic oil. How much? Well I confess that 12liters is more then my 10 liter drainpan :laugh:! I didn't even think it through....and usually when I drain my oil I like to let it drain for awhile....and get sidetracked on other things. IT was a bit of a shocker as I was getting ready to start greasing the driveshafts under my tractor to look over and see my drainpan full and almost overflowing! I caught it just in time. But it was still messier then it needed to be as I had to plug the hole mid stream, and then deal with a drainpan full to the edge with hydro oil. So, other then the super tight filter adventure and the almost overflow on the drainpan, my first 50hr service went great! Hopefully the 200hr service goes a little smoother.........

P.S. Youtube has some great tips for removing a difficult oil filter. As bad as my filter was stuck....it paled in comparison to this poor guy. Difficult Oil Filter Removal - YouTube
 

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Dieselshadow,

Where did you get your oil drain pan from? I have been looking everywhere for a Large pan and can't find one. I am doing my 50 hour now and plan B for the time being is to use my 10qt pan and my drill pump to pump out oil as it drains. Also any tips filling from a 5 gallon container of oil. I can see a mess in my near future.
 

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Why not use the drill pump, since you already have it? :)
Because it's a PITA. Also something to note if you drop the magnet from the screen on a concrete floor it will break and ALL dealers within 100 miles will not have a new one in stock. Judging by the location of the screen on the tractor I am assuming that I cannot remove the screen with the system full of fluid. Anyone ever try this? My thought was to install the screen without the magnet and install it once it finally comes in. For now I am waiting but have my fingers crossed that it actually arrive this wk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I got my oil drain pan at Auto Zone or probably NAPA. It has a 3 gallon capacity. I filled it to the rim while doing the 50 hr service. :laugh::laugh: So watch out. It comes out fast too. You can't say "Oh $...!!!" fast enough. :lol::lol::lol:

Use the longer chunks of your magnet. Don't worry too much about having it all in one piece. Get the new one and have it for next service if you still feel the need. The magnet will still do it's job regardless. In fact, mine is in two pieces as well. :hi:


As far as the bucket goes, I'll tell you what I did. Tilt the seat forward, unscrew the cap and put a large spout funnel in it's place. Make sure to secure the funnel if it's not able to stand well on it's own. Pull the dipstick out and set it aside. Otherwise you'll make a mess. Open your bucket and position it that when lifted over the the back the spout will be at the top. Then pour into the funnel and roll the bucket to lower the spout as the oil level allows. Take your time and don't rush it. If you pour smoothly, it won't "glug" and make a mess. After half the bucket is gone, stop and check the level. It will come up fast on the dipstick when it starts to show. Sneak up on it. It's much easier to add a little than drain a little. Run your hydraulics a bit and then check it and top off if necessary. Make sure to lower your 3PH and lower your FEL if you have it attached prior to checking the level.
 

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Great info and tips. This might be a silly question but do the attachments need to be installed when changing the hydraulic fluid? I took my loader and backhoe off for ease of access to the tractor when I drained the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No. You can leave your attachments off. When you drain the oil, it won't come out of the attachments anyway.
 

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HELP!! I have no hydraulics now. New magnet took a week to come in for the suction screen. Put everything back together with no issues filled with fluid and I have no power. Does it need to be bled off? Used JD Low Vis oil, new filter, cleaned screen, fluid is at second check mark from top. Puzzled.
 

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Berg Did the samething when I changed the engine oil and then transmission oil on the 2305 I traded in last week. Makes a big mess and you can not get the plug back in quick enough .
May have to get a larger catch pan I'm pretty sure Advance has a 16 qt or larger .
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
HELP!! I have no hydraulics now. New magnet took a week to come in for the suction screen. Put everything back together with no issues filled with fluid and I have no power. Does it need to be bled off? Used JD Low Vis oil, new filter, cleaned screen, fluid is at second check mark from top. Puzzled.
I know you got this fixed already wired. I just wanted to post the solution for those who read this thread later.:thumbup1gif:

Ensure the fluid level is within the normal range. Then start the tractor and run at idle speed. Cycle the PTO on and off. Wiggle the steering back and forth a bit. This should clear the air bubble in the hydraulic pump should it not clear itself. :good2:
 

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I've only got 11 hrs. on mine but I'm getting together everything I need in advance. My wife picked me up a 15 qt. drain pan at Menards today for just over $8.00 and I think it will work out great. It's only 7" high. Here's a picture of it. I've got pretty many tools but I have never had a torque wrench. Can anyone here tell me of a good one that doesn't cost a arm and leg?

Product Cookware and bakeware Vehicle Wheel
 
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