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How do you read this? Should the bucket be level when the bend in the rod sits in the eyelet?
 

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So if the bucket is in a fully curled position (towards the operator) and not level on the ground, and the rod is in the position described above, I assume it needs to be adjusted and was never done so from the dealer?
 

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So if the bucket is in a fully curled position (towards the operator) and not level on the ground, and the rod is in the position described above, I assume it needs to be adjusted and was never done so from the dealer?
Set your tractor on flat ground. Place the bucket flat on the ground and adjust the rod so the bend lays right on the eyelet. The top of the bucket is also parallel to the bottom o the bucket. :good2:


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The advice above regarding setting it up on a flat surface is absolutely correct. My tip is as follows: if you find your bucket works at particular angles ( for example, the bucket angle used when digging) take a permanent marker and mark a circle the bucket level indicator rod to make it easier to return the bucket to the same angle every time. That way, when you curl the bucket and the mark passes through the eye, you're there!
 

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The advice above regarding setting it up on a flat surface is absolutely correct. My tip is as follows: if you find your bucket works at particular angles ( for example, the bucket angle used when digging) take a permanent marker and mark a circle the bucket level indicator rod to make it easier to return the bucket to the same angle every time. That way, when you curl the bucket and the mark passes through the eye, you're there!
I think it was KHOP who did something similar with colored tape. He marked his indicator for his forks since they attach at a different angle than the bucket. What a great idea.:thumbup1gif:
 

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Marking Tape

Yeah Diesel, that was me, and by the way, It has worked great for me. Now I will put a different color on the indicator rod to show where my grapple forks are at level too. For those who say it will wear off with use,( easy and cheap to replace), it depends on how good the tape is. Worn tape = seat time!!
YEAH !!! KHOP:thumbup1gif: fork.jpg
 

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My level indicator was set up right, but it is an easy adjustment if needed. I find the level indiator very useful whenever using the bucket, I like it. The tape idea is good, I'll have to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the tips everyone.
 

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Are you guys sure about this? On my 2520 it seems like the bucket is level when the top flat part of the rod is level, and has no relation to any bends or eyelets. I'm not sure of the differences between the 200CX loader and the one on the 1026r.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You may be reading your indicator incorrectly, this is from the D120 and H120 manual, if you have a similar rod with the bend I would bet it's the same:
 

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Ahh, understood. Yes, when I'm on level ground, the bend in the level indicator is in the eyelet. That is NOT the case when the bucket is raised. Sometimes I need to keep my bucket level in the air due to whatever I may have strapped onto it or hanging off of it. In those cases the bend is not in the eyelet. I understand what you guys are referring to now (ground level).
 

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Here how what I did to make it easier to read. I tried paint marking, but that rubs off after a while so then I used tape and that rubs off, but easy to reapply. so then I added and extension which is closer to the seat which I can read easier.
 

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This is why i love reading this forum. I was sitting on my tractor just the other day wondering just what in the hell that rod is for. D'oh! Great to learn new things!!!

:bigthumb:
 

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One of the most frustrating things I've found with my FEL is that the quick attach connections (though otherwise well-designed) are built way too loose. It's difficult to fine tune the dig when it flops up and down an inch or two.
 

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One of the most frustrating things I've found with my FEL is that the quick attach connections (though otherwise well-designed) are built way too loose. It's difficult to fine tune the dig when it flops up and down an inch or two.
Obi, I would suggest you try putting your loader in float and adjusting your dig with the tip/curl of the bucket. I've started doing that lately, after a suggestion from a friend of mine with an identical 1025R. Watch the top of your bucket - when it's level, the bottom is level. If you're good, you can scrape dirt clods off of grass without damaging it.

Since the bucket will bounce up and down a couple inches if you jump on it, it will also react to any loads with the same amount of movement, causing you to gouge even deeper as the load increases.
 

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One of the most frustrating things I've found with my FEL is that the quick attach connections (though otherwise well-designed) are built way too loose. It's difficult to fine tune the dig when it flops up and down an inch or two.
Plastic washer behind the snap ring helps.

I yarded my level indicator off. Too much racket rattling around and rubbing all the time. Top of bucket shows me all I need.
 

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One of the most frustrating things I've found with my FEL is that the quick attach connections (though otherwise well-designed) are built way too loose. It's difficult to fine tune the dig when it flops up and down an inch or two.
Huhhh? What is moving an inch or two?? The bucket? The loader arms? Neither should have an inch or two of play in the attachment points.
 

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One of the most frustrating things I've found with my FEL is that the quick attach connections (though otherwise well-designed) are built way too loose. It's difficult to fine tune the dig when it flops up and down an inch or two.
No slack on my machine.

Have you put the lock-pin in the correct place?
 

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Have you put the lock-pin in the correct place?
I wouldn't think it possible for anyone to not put the lock pins on correctly. If you ever find that I have, please come take my tractor away as I would be a danger to myself and the general public.

Obi, I would suggest you try putting your loader in float and adjusting your dig with the tip/curl of the bucket.
The tip/curl (I say tilt) of the bucket IS the problem

If you're good, you can scrape dirt clods off of grass without damaging it.
Oh, I'm good alright. But my equipment is letting me down...

Plastic washer behind the snap ring helps.
That's not where the play is.

Huhhh? What is moving an inch or two?? The bucket? The loader arms? Neither should have an inch or two of play in the attachment points.
The problem is two-fold. The upside down U-shape bracket at the top of the bucket that the attachment arms slide into have about ¼ inch of slop. I've actually been thinking of bending some steel plate and welding inside them to remove that slop. That causes some of the play in the tilt of the bucket. The bigger problem is the hydraulics. I can push the bucket up and down with my hands by about an inch and a half because the hydraulic cylinders are 'squishy'. If I put the front edge straight up and down on the ground, I can move it almost six inches without the hydraulics by moving the tractor forward and backwards.

I can't believe I'm the only one with these problems.
 
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