[dieselshadow]

Somebody posted a question about the engine to trans drive shaft and how hard it was to lubricate the front u-joint on the 1026R. I couldn't find where so I posted a new thread.

I was looking underneath and found an access hole directly underneath the front u-joint grease fitting. You'll have to remove your deck and rotate the engine until it comes into view. All of the other grease fittings are relatively easy to get to. Servicing this tractor looks easy.

I could not get a good picture, but I did try. :thumbsdown:

 

[RandyM]

Some related threads.

Here a couple of other threads on the subject. Thanks for the post.

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?2251-2210-Drive-Shaft-Lubrication-Easy-Way

http://www.greentractortalk.com/for...-Drive-Shaft-Lubrication&highlight=driveshaft

 

[dieselshadow]

Got some pics. The grease fitting is clearly visible. Second picture shows the flywheel which is easily turned by hand to get to the fitting. I'm glad the engineers were looking at the ease of service on this tractor. :thumbup1gif:

 

[RandyM]

Nice job on the photos.

Thank you for the update. It looks like Deere did improve the accessibility of the zerks. At least you do not need a needle to lube 'em. :thumbup1gif:

 

[mustangary]

Somebody posted a question about the engine to trans drive shaft and how hard it was to lubricate the front u-joint on the 1026R. I couldn't find where so I posted a new thread.

I was looking underneath and found an access hole directly underneath the front u-joint grease fitting. You'll have to remove your deck and rotate the engine until it comes into view. All of the other grease fittings are relatively easy to get to. Servicing this tractor looks easy.

I could not get a good picture, but I did try. :thumbsdown:

Well, yes, there is an access hole below the fitting on the front end of the drive shaft on the 1026r, but mine did not align with the hole... knuckle in the way. After about an hour of trying, couple of different guns/ends, finally was able to attach to the fitting up through the lines next to the hole.. used a screwdriver to "push" the gun end onto the fitting. Not good ... but did get it done!

 

[dieselshadow]

Sorry to hear your trouble. I use a needle on my grease gun. It makes it a two handed job, but it works on most fittings. I also have a grease needle that is bent 90 for the hard-to-get-to fittings. I rarely need it.

 

[mustangary]

Needle on grease gun

Sorry to hear your trouble. I use a needle on my grease gun. It makes it a two handed job, but it works on most fittings. I also have a grease needle that is bent 90 for the hard-to-get-to fittings. I rarely need it.

I thought these needles were used only for going under boots, etc. Or, are you somehow inserting the needle into the grease fitting (not logical this would work, but maybe so)?? Just curious.

As noted, I was able to get the gun onto the fitting... just pushed it up between the lines next to the access hole... and, it worked just fine. The access hole needs to be a bit larger, if we really are going to grease through that hole. One cannot align the grease gun on the fitting as the knuckle on the universal joint is in the way... just barely... but in the way. Another 1/8 inch (larger hole) would do it!

So, next time, will not even try going through the access hole (unless I can figure out a way to "ream it out" a tad)...maybe even just file it a bit. Have to think about it awhile! ... and, if the "sugar plums dancing around in my head (this time of year)" don't get in the way, may get r' done!

 

[dieselshadow]

The needle I use is not the same kind you would use for penetrating a CV boot. It's not sharp at all. It kinda looks like the tip of a ball point pen without the ball in it. I'll post pictures tonight. It'll make more sense. There are other grease fittings (common in aviation) that are very low profile designed for the needle. On a regular zerk fitting, the needle can't be held onto it straight on as the check ball in the zerk blocks any grease movement. If held at a slight angle, grease flows easily and there is no leakage. Other than having to use both hands, I like it. You have to have a pistol grip grease gun for it to work. Otherwise you'll need a third hand. One for the needle and two for a lever style of grease gun. I bought my needles at an auto parts store. NAPA I think.

 

[rgd]

As for reaming the hole larger,I've found an electricians universal/step drill bit to be ideal on metals 1/8" and thinner.They are pricey tho....

 

[dieselshadow]

As promised, here are some pictures of the needle I use for greasing.

I added a standard coupling in the picture for scale.

 

[Vinceh]

Same problem in Australia!

Just did this the first service on my 1026 and yes the grease nipple on the back of the flywheel is hard to get at. I do appreciate other posts on this, but I have come up with another way to deal with this.

If you take both side panels off to service the engine. Then remove the kick guard on the operator platform (four Phillip head blots). Then access the grease nipple through the alloy frames which support the steering wheel.

I hope that this helps, I spent a couple of frustrating hours trying to use the hole in the frame!

 

[Gizmo2]

Welcome to GTT Vinceh and thanks.

 

[John Deere 1025R TLB]

Somebody posted a question about the engine to trans drive shaft and how hard it was to lubricate the front u-joint on the 1026R. I couldn't find where so I posted a new thread.

I was looking underneath and found an access hole directly underneath the front u-joint grease fitting. You'll have to remove your deck and rotate the engine until it comes into view. All of the other grease fittings are relatively easy to get to. Servicing this tractor looks easy.

I could not get a good picture, but I did try. :thumbsdown:

I have a small head on my grease gun. The hole worked well. Just adjust the shaft to see the fitting and away you go....

 

[ChrisR]

I used a holesaw, the same diameter as the existing hole, & elongated the hole to the front & rear.

 

[chex313]

Randy in your first post, the 2nd link is invalid... I wanted to follow it if you got a minute to fix it.
Thanks

A lot of great info here...I enjoy laying on the cold garage floor, for as short a time as possible. :snow:

 

[HydroHarold]

I have a small head on my grease gun. The hole worked well. Just adjust the shaft to see the fitting and away you go....

My grease gun (Lincoln air powered) also has the small head plus I bought a 6 piece "adapter set" to get the one other hard to reach fitting, top of the bucket pivot on the BH and anything else difficult I may run into. The needle grease applicators can be really handy doing linkages in tight spots.

I used a holesaw, the same diameter as the existing hole, & elongated the hole to the front & rear.

Uh oh... Voided the warranty right off the bat did you?:laugh:

A lot of great info here...I enjoy laying on the cold garage floor, for as short a time as possible. :snow:

A shortage of cardboard over there?:laugh: I bought an official roller creeper... It's still too high to work easily under an SCUT and I'm back to cardboard myself.:unknown:

 

[farmgirl19]

Vinceh; Welcome to the forum, and thanks for the informative post!

HydroHarold; I don't have an issue with using cardboard and getting under things, but the getting back up from the cardboard can be an issue, at times!

 

[HydroHarold]

Vinceh; Welcome to the forum, and thanks for the informative post!

HydroHarold; I don't have an issue with using cardboard and getting under things, but the getting back up from the cardboard can be an issue, at times![/QUOTE]

Maybe we (some of us anyway) should have a getting up off the floor "grunt off" and post it on YouTube. It might make a decent addition to a future super bowl half time...:laugh: Every time I get up like that I have to look around to make sure nobody saw what I was doing to cause such noises.:mocking: