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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a used 2012 1026R with 231hrs on it a couple months ago. seemed fine in cold winter, used the 47" blower quite a bit and it was good. I didn't get service records when I got it despite asking because original owner either didn't keep them or hand anything off - I bought from a Dark Red dealer, this was a trade in they got so they didn't give me much to work on. Under the circumstances, I did 200 hr service and put in low visc JD floguard, filters. oil, all good. Also replaced worn steering hydro line. Air filter update / recall was already done.

Today, I hooked up snow blower with chains to FEL bucket move it into summer storage spot in barn. Lifted everything with arms 2", then hit bucket curl up and it went down, hit SCV lever again a bit harder and it went up. I thought maybe I had some air in the system ( had just put FEL on ) . I let the bucket down a little, then up and it a dropped a couple times when I went up on control. I can lift or drop the tractor with curl under control, I can back drag ok but not 100% I'm getting good curl up when scooping during loading. Too muddy now to try anything. Temps where mid 30's.

As i understand it, around 2013 this would of been a warranty fix to replace the SCV with updated unit. Original owner probably wan't the most savvy person on this stuff. What about in 2021 if critical warranty fix wasn't done, but its clearly a safety and operational issue ? am I SOL on this and forking out $300+ for a new SCV + time to replace it myself ? or any chance of having part sent free under some safety recall ? or put reg visc hydro fluid in as possible cheap fix ? anyone with well down the road experience about possible fix that isn't $$$. I replaced the FEL parking stand because the original broke @ mast casting tab due to my error ($475 all parts + tx ), filters and fluids, other small things plus my own updates like wheel spacers and bucket hooks so I'm tired of spending money right now on this.

S
 

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Also replaced worn steering hydro line.
Can't help you with the floppy bucket, but if that steering hose was the left side hose, make sure you secure it somehow up to the frame. The tire will rub against it and wear a hole in it. Don't know if that's why you replaced it to begin with or not.
 

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That's too bad, I suppose you will just have to chat with a JD dealer on whether it is covered or not. I bought my 2012 1026R new and had the same problem, but it was replaced under warranty and I have had no problems with the issue since so it is worth fixing for sure.
 
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While you are checking with the dealer about the repair and whether it can be covered under a recall, have them pull up the history of your machine's dealer service and print it out for you based upon the tractors complete serial number. It's a good idea to take a photo of the bar code tag and keep it on your cell phone for easy reference.. While this will only cover work performed at a John Deere dealer, perhaps that's where all work on the machine was performed. The serial number is often required for parts reference, etc so it's a good idea to have this available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok thanks guys. I'll call my dealer mon and see how it goes. thanks for info in serial # and service records. I"d hope this would be recall fix, at least free part and I can spend an afternoon of quality wrench time taking my machine part again :rolleyes:. I did some searching here and I found DTAC # 35065 as the magic phrase to maybe fix this, at least if it was 2013.
 

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I don't think this was a "recall", although most would argue it should have been because it was a safety issue. Good luck Steve!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
called the dealer today. They were decent enough about the situation. They are going to call JD DM if they can get SCV as warranty part. If not, the SCV is currently listed as $990 :eek: or only 3X what generic SCV's cost. The alternative "fix" is some sort of flow restrictor and check valve for only $770 which also slows things down, not a good fix at all. We'll see what comes backon this. If I had an old machine I'd get the generic control and plumb it in.

I took the machine out today (25F) and picked up a log to play with and see how bad it is. With the machine cold, it was pretty weak and easy to repro. Once I got machine warmed up a little, kicked up the RPM to 2500+, moved it a few times it mostly wasn't a problem, well for 100-150lb log at least. I suspect warm with standard visc H fluid and light loads this might not be that bad, which is probably why it never got fixed by original owner. Start moving heavy stuff different story.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Follow Up 4 weeks later: The DM never responded to my first contact thru the dealer. A couple days ago I picked up a mulching kit from the dealer and talked with the parts guy. He said lets try again : call, email. Today I got word they are going to give me a replacement SCV ! I guess I made the case mine was weak enough to be a safety hazard given what I'm doing with it that this was the right thing to do. thanks to my JD dealer (midstate WI ) too for nudging them. I do have to return the original SCV which is no big deal. Something between wanting to see what it failed and that the part was actually changed out.
 

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Follow Up 4 weeks later: The DM never responded to my first contact thru the dealer. A couple days ago I picked up a mulching kit from the dealer and talked with the parts guy. He said lets try again : call, email. Today I got word they are going to give me a replacement SCV ! I guess I made the case mine was weak enough to be a safety hazard given what I'm doing with it that this was the right thing to do. thanks to my JD dealer (midstate WI ) too for nudging them. I do have to return the original SCV which is no big deal. Something between wanting to see what it failed and that the part was actually changed out.
Wait they are giving you the part to fix it yourself ? That is really surprising my 1026R had to be done by them. I had to try 3 things to check it...and request it twice. At that point they escalated it and I took it in to be replaced. That bad valve scared the crap out of me...

It is nice you can replace it yourself and not tie up the tractor for a couple days...along with transport.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
When did you have it done ? This is a 2012 machine in 2021.

initially this would of been all on me moneywise so for me just getting the SCV was a good deal if its a couple hours to take it apart and put it back together again. Guess I'm gonna figure out how to get the fender off ;) thats not a bad thing since I want to add a 2nd DC power socket so I can run yellow LED blinker light and snow blower chute tilt... or a USB charger.
 

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I would have look up my post on it to see if it was out of warranty or not...I can't remember as it was 8 or 9 years ago...but being a DTAC it should be covered anytime...That thing could kill someone ...They should be joyful to fix it.

What I meant was it is much easier for us to put it on in most cases...I'm lucky I can drive a mile to my dealer...Really would have been a PITA if I had to drive an hour to drop it off.

I would have thought they would have wanted to install it themselves, that is usually the way they get reimbursed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
open valve surgery begins. Things I know today I didn't know yesterday. Hyrdo lines have O rings that should be replaced when redoing connections. Be nice if JD included a full set with the SCV as part of replacement since you really should replace them. Then I find the 4 SCV lines to the QD's are really corroded on the top ( deck side ) which wasn't that visible from the bottom. replacing those too, about $215 for all 4. Should have all the parts tomorrow. there is gravel to move and grass to cut and rocks to roll.

781820

781821
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Job complete ! All told it was 8-10 hrs of work with replacing all the lines and connectors. THat was spread out over more than a week due to waiting for extra parts to complete the job like the lines. Most of it wasn't too bad. When I took out the original SCV I torqued one of the lines going to the H pump. The line was corroded to the nut. The twist wasn't too bad, but I was concerned this would cause flow restriction so decided to replace it being as its such a pain to get at everything. It was another 2 days and $54 for getting that line.

O rings: Don't forget to order a complete set for the hydro lines. When you redo the lines they are supposed to be replaced. Not expensive or time consuming to replace, especially compared to having a leak and taking it all apart again. The o rings are separate order from SCV even though you'd expect they should be included.

The worst part of the job was the multiple tries to get the top fender insert (black) onto the fender with the wire harness fed thru it. after several tries of trying to get the wiring harness to seat in the internal notches, I finally pulled it off for a 3rd time and taped the wiring in place. then it fit perfect.

Also dumb thing but no obvious ; put the SCV boot on FIRST before putting fender on because its supposed to go around the mid section of the SCV, Hands of a surgeon and 15 minutes of messing around I got ti done w/o taking the entire fender off - which would of meant taking the footdeck off and other panels. Amazingly stupid series of panel overlays. To take the fender off, remove engine side panels that allow lower steering cowling cover to come off that allows the foot deck to come off, don't forget to remove seat cowling, and then you can get the fender off.

wiring taped in place for reassembly.

782537


replaced middle line. Hint : spray corroded connected with liquid wrench first and let sit for a minute before trying to get them off. The 2nd line is ok and got reused, but to replace the middle line meant having to take the seat off which was big hassle.

782538



the darkest part with seat off to get aat ther line going to the hydro pump. getting the seat back in place was super annoying. On the front you take 2 bolts out of the rails, on the back 2 bolts that hold bracket that hold rails.


782539



I have to say, the new QDs work SO much better than the old original ones. a job much easier with the foot deck off because the snap rings are a pain to get off.

782540


when it was all done, I loose fit the foot deck on ( to cover drivehsaft ! ) and fired it up. seems to work ok, booms down much faaster and this SCV has regen on curl dump that the original one didn't seem to have. not fully tested but at least initial tests seem ok. really happy that for all the connections that got done, no leaks :) I certainly learned a lot about how these machines are put together.
 

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Thanks for posting your work on this. It's super helpful to me as someone about do the same. I ordered my new SCV this past week but the dealer hasn't gotten it in yet. I've had enough with the current SCV with trying to back drag 32 tons of class 5 the other weekend that I made up mind it's time for the fix. I've only had my 1026R since last December so I didn't really know what the floppy bucket issue was like until I took the snowblower off and really started to use the loader...Annoying and Frustrating! I have lots more excavating to do on our property this spring so I'm looking forward to an improved loader/pallet forks function.
 
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