Green Tractor Talk banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

Registered
Joined
150 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ran my tractor out of fuel. Upon filling, it was hard to start. It always started immediately. Then when it did get going it ran really rough for a minute or two until it got going normally. I figured it just took time to get fully primed again after running dry. Did this one other time when it was new, and ran fine since.

The next dozen times I started it, it did the same thing - about 20-30 seconds rough, until it kicked in normally. Then it started normally for a couple of weeks with no problems. But now it periodically does the same thing and seems to be getting worse.

It is 5 years old - 300+ hours. I'm thinking fuel filter since I ran the tank empty - and it was fine until then.

Am I on the right track? Both filters? Any other advice? Thanks in advance.
 

Registered
Joined
3,091 Posts
Probably the baby filter under the floor.

Did you get 300 hours out of one filter ?!馃く
 

Registered
Joined
3,085 Posts
Im thinking baby filter. Might have sucked some junk off the bottom of tank when running it dry.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ClydeLogan

Registered
Joined
1,101 Posts
I'd replace that baby filter under the floor with a piece of pipe. The 2025R gen. 1 and 4010 before it only had the bowl filter.

When the bowl filter is replaced, it'll start and die a time or two before flushing out all the air.
 

Registered
Joined
150 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys - appears we are on the same wavelength. Yes - they are both still the original filters.

Do I remove the floor to get to the baby filter - or can I get to it from under the hood or under the tractor? @RalphVa - so you are suggesting I just remove the baby filter - right? Why would that be better?

I don't understand why there are two filters. Which one is first in line? In other words, if I did suck some junk from the tank - where did it likely end up?
 

Premium Member
Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
Joined
3,501 Posts
Probably the baby filter under the floor.

Did you get 300 hours out of one filter ?!馃く
yup... What Jimmy said.

Also - Running a diesel outta fuel is really hard on the injection pump, since the diesel fuel is all it has for lubrication.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mackford13

Registered
Joined
3,561 Posts
Thanks guys - appears we are on the same wavelength. Yes - they are both still the original filters.

Do I remove the floor to get to the baby filter - or can I get to it from under the hood or under the tractor? @RalphVa - so you are suggesting I just remove the baby filter - right? Why would that be better?

I don't understand why there are two filters. Which one is first in line? In other words, if I did suck some junk from the tank - where did it likely end up?
I think that filter is accessible from under the tractor. It鈥檚 probably in your operators manual,
Or do a search here on GTT.
The little one is first in line.
 

Registered
Joined
3,085 Posts
It'll be under the left floor board as your sitting on the tractor. You can access it from underneath. It is the first filter that comes off of the tank.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SulleyBear

Registered
Joined
3,085 Posts
Another thing if you didn't already know this. Make sure & clamp off the hose on the tank side when changing the filter or you will get an unwanted diesel bath.
 

Premium Member
Joined
3,632 Posts
Another thing if you didn't already know this. Make sure & clamp off the hose on the tank side when changing the filter or you will get an unwanted diesel bath.
I think most of us have had that fuel bath. I I use a pointed nose vise grip to pinch the hose off on the tank side.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mackford13

Premium Member
Joined
73 Posts
I think most of us have had that fuel bath. I I use a pointed nose vise grip to pinch the hose off on the tank side.
And I just saw a post here where someone had found a fuel leak from doing just that... I used to do the SAME thing also, then got the right tool.



https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3791-Pinch-Off-Pliers-Capacity/dp/B000RLJABW $17 is well worth it. Work on garden hoses also. I spent more to get them off the Snap On truck YEARS ago, and they have been more than worth it.

For the 'occasional user' and at about 1/2 the price, these come with three sizes.




Sorry about the MONSTER size pics, they were smaller when I copied them.... o_O
 

Registered
Joined
1,101 Posts
On my lemony 1025R, you had to get it from underneath. It's almost exactly under your left foot when flat on the floor. PITA because of no valve to shut fuel off. Like I said, replace it with a piece of pipe.
 

Registered
Joined
3,085 Posts
I think most of us have had that fuel bath. I I use a pointed nose vise grip to pinch the hose off on the tank side.
I installed a shut off on mine. So know more pinching the hose off. 馃槈
 

Premium Member
1025r with Mauser cab.
Joined
14,439 Posts
It's almost exactly under your left foot when flat on the floor. PITA because of no valve to shut fuel off. Like I said, replace it with a piece of pipe.
Here is what the fuel lines under the floor board look like, including the number 15 fuel filter. This is the filter you need to replace, first and then, replace the next filter in the fuel separator, shown as number 8 in the lower illustration.

Human body Rectangle Map Organism Slope


The suggestion i quoted above to replace the filter with a piece of pipe is Definitely not advice I would follow...............as often as this filter plugs and considering the draw pump for the fuel is under the hood of the tractor, in line AFTER this small under floor filter, your choice is to replace the $4 filter occasionally which traps all of the sediment, etc OR risk running the same crud which plugs the small filter through the $108 12v electric fuel pump shown as number 18 in the illustration below, which normally is spared the indignity of having to process the crud which eventually plugs the under floor filter.

Product Rectangle Organism Font Screenshot


Seems like a bad idea to me.....

Deere placed it there for a reason and I wouldn't "re-engineer" the fuel system because its "easier" or whatever the logic is for replacing it with a piece of pipe. Adding a fuel shut off before the small filter makes sense. Even moving the small filter to an easier to access location isn't a bad idea, as long as it still precedes and protects the fuel pump. But simply eliminating the small filter with a piece of pipe isn't advice I would follow...........
 

Registered
Joined
4,265 Posts
I also don鈥檛 think it鈥檚 a good idea to eliminate the little filter . The engineers put it there for a reason. It鈥檚 really not that hard to replace. If your not careful or unluckily you may spill a little fuel on yourself.
 

Registered
Joined
28 Posts
Please let us know how you make out with this. After initially reading your first post, my first thought was the system was losing its prime. I鈥檓 much more familiar with older Cummins engines in pick up trucks, and this is a common issue with them because the engine is higher than the tank. I haven鈥檛 studied the fuel system on the 1025r very much, so I鈥檇 take the advice you鈥檙e getting from others on this one. However, if that still doesn鈥檛 fix it, then I鈥檇 be looking at all the clamps and gaskets in the fuel system. I believe there is a rubber o ring on the main filter housing? Typically these problems from bad gaskets / o rings and clamps result in the system sucking air, rather than seeing a fuel leak, which makes them hard to diagnose. I am definitely not pretending to be an expert on this and I鈥檓 curious as to what the final solution is. I agree with Sully though, don鈥檛 remove that small filter from the system. It protects all the expensive components from damage.
 

Premium Member
Joined
8,810 Posts
I use a couple of these I got from the dollar bin at Harbor Freight. Works like a charm

Photograph White Line Surgical instrument Circle
 

Registered
Joined
465 Posts
One thing...
If that lower little filter can plug up so soon why not install a larger capacity same micron filter?
Is this primary filter like the very small plastic see through one used on a lawn tractor or an old air cooled Voltswagon bug?
Way too small and problematic IMO...
 

Registered
Joined
3,561 Posts
One thing...
If that lower little filter can plug up so soon why not install a larger capacity same micron filter?
Is this primary filter like the very small plastic see through one used on a lawn tractor or an old air cooled Voltswagon bug?
Way too small and problematic IMO...
I鈥檇 guess they used that filter for several reasons
It鈥檚 small so will fit just about anywhere
It鈥檚 already in the parts bin and is used on millions of machines already, no need to reinvent the wheel
If you do annual filter changes it won鈥檛 see that many gallons of fuel. The tractor uses about 1 gallon per hour, average tractor sees <50 hours per year or 鈮50 gallons of fuel before replacement. If it plugs in 50 gallons I鈥檇 be looking at a new place to buy fuel.
 

Registered
Joined
4,265 Posts
My 1026R is over ten years old. I haven鈥檛 had any issues with the little filter. But I change it out every year. Just going by the post here, it seems it tends to plug before the filter on the engine. More often than not when one of these engines is down on power or not running quite right it鈥檚 because the little filter is doing it鈥檚 job and got plugged. It seems to be the first thing to get effectEd by bad fuel.

As I said before, it鈥檚 not hard to swap out. You just need to have your tools and the new filter where you can quickly and easily reach them. I remove the clamps, pull the old filter off, put my thumb over the end of the hose on the tank end and put the new filter on , kinda all in one motion. I may spill a cup or 2 on the shop floor. But I don鈥檛 find it a big deal. I make a lot bigger mess changing oil filters on some vehicles.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top