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1026R leak

19821 Views 79 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  56FordGuy
I have a confession to make. I had my new tractor back at the dealer for a warranty repair. It appeared to have a small leak where the hydrostatic trans meets the transaxle. There are a few o-rings to seal this area according to JD parts. I figured that one of these o-rings was pinched during installation at the factory. The leak was dynamic as in only when the tractor was running. When I parked it in the garage after using the tractor it would mark it's territory with two small puddles of oil about the size of a half dollar each. After cleaning the oil off the floor, it would stay dry. Again, I thought this was minor. The dealer came and picked it up and returned it a week later. The repair ticket was an interesting read. The ROPS was removed, floor, lower console, fenders, and then the transaxle assembly. Wow. Looking at it, it looks as though the hydrostat can be removed without all that much drama. One driveshaft, some linkage, and 5 bolts. Well whatever, it's under warranty I figured. But the ticket had some more goodies on it. Apparently the gasket within the trans was the culprit. Then there was a statement regarding a request from JD. They wanted to know if all of the bolts were installed on the transmission (hydrostat to transaxle) and tight. (Yes they were.) The total for this was around $1200. WOW..... All of that for that tiny little leak. Well all is good right? The dealer brought it back, no leak. Good. Back to work. I missed my tractor. Well guess what I noticed the other day? My leak is back...dadgumit. It's going back to the dealer again next week. This sucks...

I'll keep you guys posted on what happens. I'll also post pictures later.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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We are here for you. keep us posted.
That's a tough break Jason.

Yeah, some of those gasket leaks seem simple to fix but, can add up in a hurry. Actually, the good news is it is all to be fixed under warranty. And, in the off season and with no snow. This is a win, win, win. :good2: I hope you can get it fixed fast like the last time.
Well, shucks . . . You musta' worked it too hard hauling all that rock up the driveway.

Sounds like your dealer is on top of the situation . . . shame he didn't get the leak fixed correctly on the first try.

Appreciate your keeping us posted.
Sounds familiar....when the 2210 first came out, it leaked around the toplink plate, but only if you did heavy 3 point work....the rockshaft would contact the toplink plate inside the trans and push outward and when combined with a heavy 3 pt implement a leak would eventually start. At first JD would only approve remove/reseal/replace but eventually they released a heavier/thicker toplink plate that was a running change as well as a more permanent repair for those whose 2210's wouldn't stop leaking. I got my 2210 in Feb 2003 and my 3pt use was light so it didn't start until a year or more later....JD fixed it under warranty.

I recall a lot of guys getting the improved plate and one early buyer actually got close to full price on a trade because his leaked from day one and JD was not successful in fixing it, this was before the improved plate was released.

It sure hurts when your new toy is leaking like that!
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Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Metal Fuel line

you can see the new gasket from previous repair
Auto part Fuel line Pipe Engine Exhaust manifold

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It's been sitting for a week in these pictures

Auto part Diagram Technical drawing Automotive engine part Transmission part

I originally thought it might be items 3,4, and 6
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Item 29 the block gasket was also replaced

She has an appointment to see the Deere doctor on Wednesday:good2:
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Sorry for your troubles! Thanks for the pic, it's always good to have a visual. Keep us posted on round 2.
Sorry about the delay in posting the pictures.:flag_of_truce: I was out of town for the week:bye:
Mother Deere is looking VERY VERY closely at the new 1000 series SCUTS. Quality control and customer satisfaction has a big magnifying glass right over it! I'll hold my thoughts on my guess for what is wrong until you get it back fixed right. When Deere asked if any bolts were missing holding the hydro to the trans, well, theres something out in print on that one too. Hope your dealer is on the ball and you have no further problems.
I look forward to your thoughts and input on this:good2:
Not to change the subject but how's that Auto connect deck workin out for you? Use it alot?
I'm not really using it now. But I had issues with it originally. There is a thread called auto-connect issues in the SCUT section. I don't know how to to post a link to the thread just yet. That thread shows what I had to do to get about a 90% success rate in hooking up. I believe that with a little use it will loosen up a bit and function 100%. My dealer only sold one other 1000 series tractor before mine and wasn't too familiar with it. I ended up showing them what I learned through this forum:good2:

I'm curious again though, can you share with us your knowledge?
1026R Autoconnect issues
Just figured out how to link. :laugh:
I really have lil knowledge of the 1000 series other than some Deere training I have received. The powertrain is very similar to other compacts and some large commercial mower units. Which is why I am also curious as to what the dealers findings are. The missing bolts have come to light and there is a mandatory inspection of units by serial number. Not all serial numbers. Dealers have already been notified and it should be a work in progress as we speak.
When Deere got rid of the 2305 (made in Japan) and decided on the 1000 series, made in Ga., They also made it a priority to look very closely at quality and at customer satisfaction. The 2305, for what it was, was and is a rock solid machine. They want to make sure, that with the redesign and switch to Augusta, Ga., that it remained so.
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So I paid my local Deere Doctor a visit this afternoon. They have located the leak and have determined it's coming from the hydrostatic trans. They ordered a new hydrostat assembly today. (Note, this is only the very front portion of the trans-axle, not the entire rear-end.) The tech conferred with JD and they determined that there is probably a casting flaw in the housing. If I'm lucky, it'll be sitting in it's home by Friday.:good2:

Floor pan removed looking at hydrostat looking aft from L/H side
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L/H side of tractor without side cowl and floor pan
Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle Auto part Automotive tire

Looking aft at hydrostat
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R/H side of tractor without side cowl and floor pan
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Hydro pedal linkage and dual mid SCV hydraulic lines
Engine Auto part Motor vehicle Automotive engine part Vehicle

Hydrostat linkage with dampener
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Engine to Hydrostat driveshaft and independent lift cylinder
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Front U-joint on Engine to Hydrostat driveshaft looking from L/H side
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Front U-joint on Engine to Hydrostat driveshaft looking to the front, steering hydraulic lines
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Independent lift cylinder
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It doesn't take much to take off the floor pan and lower dash panel. It would make servicing the front u- joint easier. The driveshaft was easily removed by disconnecting 3 bolts at the flywheel, sliding the shaft towards the rear, cocking the front end, slide the shaft forward to disengage the hydrostat, remove from tractor. The hydrostat easily comes out the top or bottom after disconnecting the linkage. Overall I'm pleased at how most everything is easily accessed and serviced.:good2:

BTW, all the pics were taken with my phone. The best camera you have is the one you have with you right?:lol:
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Man it's gotta be hard to see your new baby like that:thumbsdown:
Man it's gotta be hard to see your new baby like that:thumbsdown:
It is, but better now than later. At least that's what I'm telling myself. Funny thing is, I could really use it right now. We had a terrible storm last night and my neighbors and I had our gravel driveways washout. Some worse that others.
Hang in there Jason.

Friday is not to far away. Hopefully this will be the only problem you'll ever have.
Sorry to see the problems you are having, on the bright side mother Deere is replacing the HST to get it right! On another note, noted the independent lift, how do you like it? I am thinking of adding it to my 1026R. :empathy3:
I like it but it's not for everyone. There is a couple of threads on the independent lift. One is a sticky regarding the 2000 series but it almost identical to the 1000 series. In a nutshell, If you need to use your MMM and your 3PH at the same time, it's worthwhile. If you don't anticipate that need, save your money and buy another implement. There are more pros and cons. Do a search (maybe somebody will post some links, I'm on my phone at the moment) its a good read and can help you with your decision. If you have any questions though, don't hessitate to ask away! :thumbup1gif:
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