[djb25]

I just ordered my third set of auxiliary lights for my new 1026r.

To begin with, I decided to run a new circuit for my new auxiliary lights. Actually, I ran two circuits - one for forward facing lights, and a second for a rear light. I did use the ground plugs located at the bottom of the ROPS (for the factory auxiliary light kit). I used 14 ga wire throughout, as I was initially planning to use 55w halogen lights.

On to the lights...

The first set I bought were Hella 500ff halogen lights. I bought them at Autozone for around $80 for the pair. They're a round light around 6.5" in diameter, with 55 watt halogen bulbs. They are pretty bright, but they were driving lights and I found I wanted something with a wider beam pattern. Also, they are fairly large - they looked odd at the top of the 1026r ROPS. Another problem with the Hellas was the mounting bracket. The mounting bolt has a very flat square head that nests inside the mounting bracket. The head is shaped so that you only have to tighten the nut on the bolt, and don't need a wrench on the head of the bolt. Unfortunately, there is no room for an ordinary bolt head, so you can't install a longer bolt... This made installation complicated.

The second set were from tractor supply - apparently a new product they are carrying - 16 watt rectangular LED lights, 3"x6", made by Pilot Automotive. I think they were $59.99 each. These are a very nicely constructed light, with an aluminum housing and nice stainless steel hardware. Unfortunately, they're not very bright. After I installed them I noticed that they were only rated at 400 lumens. Interestingly, they are (supposedly) rated for 100,000 hours! Another (minor) issue - there were no installation instructions in the box. Not a big deal, except the white wire for the lights turned out to be the negative wire, and the positive wire was the black!?!

So, being double-disappointed, I ordered the following lights from Mobile HID:

Work Lights, HID Work Lights, HID Lighting, Work HID Lights, LED Work Lights, we have it all!

They are 27 watt, 4" round LED flood lights, apparently rated at 2,160 lumens. At $59.99 each, I have really high hopes.

Hopefully the third time will be the charm. Snowblowing weather will be here very soon, and I need my new lights!

Is anyone else out there running these 27 watt LEDs from Mobile HID?

 

[rockshaft]

They look the same as the lights I installed. See my enhanced lighting thread.

Also, I've used a fair amount of Hella lamps in the past, generally had good luck with them, sorry they didn't work out for you!

 

[djb25]

Also, I've used a fair amount of Hella lamps in the past, generally had good luck with them, sorry they didn't work out for you!

The Hellas were actually a nice light, they just weren't the right type of light for the tractor... If they had been flood lights and a bit smaller, I probably would have kept them.

 

[56FordGuy]

I have the 18 watt versions of those lights on my truck. I've been very happy with them, I would think the 27 watt would be even better! :thumbup1gif:

We'll need pictures, of course. :laugh:

 

[djb25]

I'll post a few photos once the new lights arrive.

They will have to be infinitely better than the TSC LEDs. I played around with them a bit tonight, and they don't do much more than add some fill light. The little auxiliary lights that come on the 1026r provide more light!

In case anyone is curious, the TSC lights are made by Pilot Automotive, model NV-720T. The box describes them as a 3"x5" "heavy duty vibration resistant utility light." Oddly enough, the box also shows that the dimensions of the light are actually 3.5" x 4"... They're 16 watts, 400 lumens. Regardless, I'm not impressed.

 

[Adamski]

Guys,

Has anyone considered moving the 1026R's auxiliary floods up to a position on the ROPS instead of adding more lights? It seems like this would be an easy way to cast some light over the FEL.

 

[djb25]

Guys,

Has anyone considered moving the 1026R's auxiliary floods up to a position on the ROPS instead of adding more lights? It seems like this would be an easy way to cast some light over the FEL.

I don't think the auxiliary floodlights would provide enough light to be worth the effort of moving them. Plus, I really like the way the auxiliary floods light up the areas to the left and right of the tractor. I think they will be very useful when snowblowing this winter - which is the main reason I'm going through the trouble of adding lights.

 

[saxamc2]

Depending on what type of vehicle you drive, I'd take the Hellas and put them on the front of it. Wire them so they turn on with your high beams and aim them kind of high with your high beam headlights. You'll be very happy with them in that capacity.

 

[XSKIER]

The front lights are already Hella! They're so bright that when I must front end load at night, I unplug them and rely on the fender lights only. Good luck with those LEDs, can't wait to see the before and after!

 

[rockshaft]

Fender lights are Hella too- holy Hella!
Another Hella model that is nice is the Micro-FF, if I hadn't bought the LED's I probably would have gone that route. More $, but less than the Rigid LED's, and a nice small form factor.

 

[djb25]

Okay, so I installed the new LEDs last night. I took some comparison photos but I don't think they turned out all that well.

Overall, I have to say that I'm a bit disappointed in the output from the new lights.

I wouldn't say that there is anything wrong with them, they are bright enough, but there's definitely something up with the lumen rating. The TSC lights were rated at 400 lumen, and the new lights are rated at 2,160. They are definitely not five times brighter than the TSC lights. They are brighter, but not by a huge margin. Granted, since they are flood lights they don't have the "throw" of a spot light, so it is a bit more difficult to compare...

I may try taking a few more photos tonight, maybe I'll be able to set the camera set to manual so the comparison is a bit more direct.

 

[Hitman98]

1026 rear lights

Id like to install rear lights and was hoping someone could give me some ideas on how to do this. I understand under the seat you can use the wiring harness to plug into but im not familiar with this and couldnt see how to do this in the owners manual. So if anyone can give me an idea on lights to use and a wiring diagram that would be great

 

[etcallhome]

don't have a picture but behind seat down at the bottom or ROPS ,right side of tractor there is one or two plugs ,(caps) in the wiring ,that is what you can use to wire your lights ,it is wired to the light switch on dash.

 

[Hitman98]

lights

ok ill look at the caps. Once the front are on the rear will be on all the time, is that correct


Brett

 

[dieselshadow]

Here it is.

The John Deere kit will plug right in. :good2:


Sent using Tapatalk.

 

[Hitman98]

lights

so I should go right to my dealer and by the light kit which includes the lights is that what you suggest

 

[dieselshadow]

so I should go right to my dealer and by the light kit which includes the lights is that what you suggest

If you want the quickest an easiest solution for more lighting, then yes. Some owners use different lights and will wire them to their own switch and circuit so they have independent control over their new lights.


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[djb25]

so I should go right to my dealer and by the light kit which includes the lights is that what you suggest

The problems I see with the factory accessory lights are:

1. They mount on top of the signal lights on the ROPS, so they're basically at eye level and you will likely get some glare.

2. They mount on top of the signal lights on the ROPS, so they may end up getting smashed.

3. The factory lights aren't LED.

4. The factory lights are "always on" - as far as I know, you can't have the headlights on without the accessory lights (anyone can feel free to correct me if I'm wrong).

I wired my lights separately from the factor lights, and I added a separate switch for them. I also wired in a reverse light at the same time, and that also has its own switch.

I mounted my lights upside down inside the top of the ROPS, so they have some extra protection from stray branches. One problem with this setup is that I don't have any lights if I have the ROPS folded - which is one significant advantage of the factory setup.


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[dieselshadow]

The problems I see with the factory accessory lights are:

1. They mount on top of the signal lights on the ROPS, so they're basically at eye level and you will likely get some glare.

2. They mount on top of the signal lights on the ROPS, so they may end up getting smashed.

3. The factory lights aren't LED.

4. The factory lights are "always on" - as far as I know, you can't have the headlights on without the accessory lights (anyone can feel free to correct me if I'm wrong).

I wired my lights separately from the factor lights, and I added a separate switch for them. I also wired in a reverse light at the same time, and that also has its own switch.

I mounted my lights upside down inside the top of the ROPS, so they have some extra protection from stray branches. One problem with this setup is that I don't have any lights if I have the ROPS folded - which is one significant advantage of the factory setup.


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Lighting switch positions. 1 = Off, 2 = Hazard (flashers only), 3 = Road (headlights and flashers), 4 = Field (headlights and auxiliary lights) per the tech manual. :hi: